SHF #12: A Custard for all Seasons
I have custard issues. It’s not that I dislike it horribly (though it can, on occasion develop a bit of a skin that screams I am bad! I defy you to eat me and not get a tummy ache!), it’s that it brings back memories. Memories of my own personal actor’s nightmare.
See, I was doing this production of The Actor’s Nightmare, go figure, when custard reared its ugly head. Let me explain: For those who don’t know the Christopher Durang play, it’s like this. A man with the unlikely name of George Spelvin is thrust on stage, sans script, sans costume, sans any notion whatsoever of where he is and is told he’s “going on” in a short number of minutes. Going on to what, George wonders, and soon finds out that he’s Hamlet and it’s opening night. Or maybe it’s Noel Coward’s Private Lives and he’s Elyot, or it’s Beckett’s Endgame, and he has to act while sitting in a garbage can. No matter, because soon enough it’s on to the execution scene in A Man For All Seasons, and George (as Sir Thomas More) has his head on the chopping block.
Now in the script, George’s fellow actors have gathered around him, all save for Dame Ellen Terry, who is still in Endgame mode, eyes out front, up to her neck in a garbage can. The actress now playing Thomas’ mother enters, carrying a custard, uttering the line “I’ve brought you a custard, Thomas.” Thomas thanks his mother (or some such) and she stands there, holding custard and spoon, until the moment the executioner swings his axe and the lights go out.
In my own personal actor’s nightmare, it goes more like this:
Thomas’ mother enters: “I’ve brought you a custard,” she says and stumbles slightly causing the custard to fly up into the air and land, face down on the stage in front of the gathered cast. She gasps, then giggles. Fellow cast members attempt to say their lines, then giggle. Then laugh. Then, along with the audience, guffaw most horribly.
All except me. Why? No sense of humor? Nah. It’s because I’m Ellen freaking Terry, stuck in the garbage can out front and I don’t see a damned thing.
So here I am – attempting to be the best straight man the Theater of the Absurd has to offer – in character even, eyes out front, never a glance behind to see what the hell is going on, uttering my lines with the straightest face I can muster, and in a garbage can no less – and just upstage of me we’ve got the entire Roman Legion from the Bigus Dickus scene in Life of Brian, all because of a CUSTARD.
Is it any wonder I am scarred for life?
Now, Chopper assures me that my playing the straight man probably generated even more laughter from the audience. Not that this is any consolation. In fact, it could provoke me to shun custard all the more. But, because this is Sugar High Friday, and the theme is indeed custard, I will allow him to play. Provided he does it away from home.
Fortunately, on that score, we’re in luck. Chopper’s been patisserie guy at the restaurant for a while now, and today is the perfect day for him to make another rendition of his successful dessert special, Bread and Butter Pudding. And this isn’t just any bread and butter pudding. It’s a brandy-soaked concoction with home (or rather restaurant) made brioche. The recipes for pudding and brioche are Chopper’s adaptations from recipes in Professional Baking by Wayne Gisslen (4th edition). And because this is for a restaurant, it’s a big recipe. We’re talking 18 by 34 by 4 inch hotel pan here, and enough tasty goodness for eighteen rather sizable portions.
Brandy Brioche Bread and Butter Pudding
serves 18
Brioche (adapted from Professional Baking p. 141)
Ingredients
- 4 ounces (1/2 cup) half & half
- 1 ounces active dry yeast
- 4 ounces all-purpose flour
- 10 ounces eggs
- 1 pound all-purpose flour
- 1 ounce sugar
- .35 ounces (2 teaspoons) kosher salt
- 14 ounces butter, softened
Method
- Scald half & half and cool to lukewarm.
- Dissolve yeast in half & half, add flour and mix to make a sponge.
- Let rise till double.
- Place sponge in mixer with paddle attachment.
- Gradually mix in eggs.
- Then add dry ingredients to make a soft dough.
- Beat in butter, a little at a time until it’s completely absorbed and the dough is smooth. (It will be very soft and sticky.)
- Let rise 20 minutes, then pan.
- Bake at 375 F for at least 45 minutes or until it passes the toothpick test.
Bread & Butter Pudding (adapted from Professional Baking, p. 467)
Ingredients
- 2 pounds brioche sliced thin
- 8 ounces butter, melted
- 2 pounds eggs
- 1 pound sugar
- .16 ounces (1 teaspoon) kosher salt
- 1 ounce vanilla extract
- 5 pounds (2 1/2 quarts) half & half
- 8 ounce brandy
Method
- Cut each slice of brioche in half.
- Brush both sides of each piece with melted butter.
- Arrange the brioche slices so that they overlap in the pan.
- Mix together eggs, sugar, salt, vanilla, and brandy until thoroughly combined.
- Add half & half.
- Pour custard mixture over the brioche in the pan.
- Let stand, refrigerated for at least one hour until brioche absorbs the custard mixture.
- Set pan in another 4″ hotel pan, filled with one inch of hot water, then place in oven preheated to 375 F.
- Bake for 1 hour or until set.
For many more custards, check out the Sugar High Friday Round-up!






























Anything with five pounds of half and half has got to be incredible! But is my math right? If an 18×34 pan serves 18, one serving is 34 sq. inches (of whatever thickness). Can that be right? Well, it could be right, technically at least, but can you walk afterwards?
Miz D & Chopper,
The important thing is the booze. Right?
Kitchenmage: I don’t think they ended up quite that big ;-) The pan measurements were from rim to rim, the interior of the pas was slightly smaller, though they were healthy (or if not so much “healthy” at least large).
Kevin: Since when is the booze NOT an important thing?? heh!
lovely write-up! I am sorry that custard brings back such haunting memories. But I am sure the Brandy (and the bread…?) fixed that up alright :)
The recipe sounds lovely but the quantities just floored me.
I can’t blame you for being traumatised by custard. Of course, if it had been Christopher Durang (or his works) that traumatised you, I could see that as well. =) Hopefully it wasn’t a good custard that gave its life for the theater.
I enjoyed reading through that story. It made me laugh. It’s great you were able to join this month’s SHF in spite of your trauma.
Now this is a dessert I’ll bet my husband could get behind. He loves custard (sorry) and bread…well, he’s a bread feind. I might be adding this to the “I’ll make this for you if you’re nice to me” list. And make it in the same proportions that you have listed. He’d better be VERY nice.
Thanks so much for joining in on SHF – even though it could have been horribly traumatic for you!
Thanks for the commments, everyone!
Soycap: Indeed the brandy did! What I didn’t mention is that we attempted to do the whole flambe thing and take pictures of a burning serving of custard, but the blue flames didn’t show up on camera and we used an entire additional airplane bottle of brandy in the effort. Then we had to eat it all. Oh darn.
Ana, yeah, that’s what happens when it’s a popular weekend special: big honkin’ heaps o’ custard!
Nic: probably not a good custard at all. Props people rarely ever make stage food that tastes good…
Lori & Jennifer: I am happy to report that this bread pudding was good enough to cure me of my trauma. I am no longer living in fear of falling custard. Now I just have to wait for the next bad culinary-related theater memory to rear its ugly head!