Paper Chef Mystic #23: The Curse Defying Edition

painter's meal

It was the event that almost wasn’t. The event that re-emerged from the abyss, from the long lost annals of Gastroblogian history, stifled by photographic traumas, by the death cries of a computer far past its prime, and by the evils of a creature known only by the minacious name Blogger BETA.

The event, Paper Chef, mystic number 23.

The task: complete a dish using the following ingredients: cranberries, vermouth, a sparkling drink, and something wild.

The obstacles? A first gourmet meal in a kitchen half-unpacked. A photographic session in a studio cobbled together from end tables and random draperies. An unfamiliar camera, on brief loan. An ailing computer, resistant to all WinExplorational cooperation. And at the last, the evil BETA beast, chomping its way through the blogosphere, disrupting our illustrious host’s posting efforts.

Could we be cursed, we ask?

No. We refuse to believe it. And why? Because this meal was just too damned good.

gelee with a boing

It’s true, I confess it. We haven’t finished unpacking our kitchen. We’ve got reasons, many of which I’ll explain another day, but in brief, we’re still using our picnic basket plasticware, and we’ve no idea where we put our favorite can opener. Not that this will stop us.

It’s also true: Our camera is broken, my computer’s throwing tantrums (Lappy jealousy, I’m certain of it), and we’ve yet to figure out where we can set up a reasonable spot for food (or for that matter, craft) photos. Not that we’re deterred by this either, dang it all.

Nope. We’re determined. We’ve been away from our favorite food blogging event far too long. We’ve had too many months without proper kitchen access at all.

herbs, untended

And so, Paper Chef Weekend, we took to the store, and subsequently armed with a bag of cranberries, a bottle of sweet vermouth, and a glug of cheap champagne, we embarked upon our search for something wild. And cheap. Cheap is good. We’re on a scary budget these days. And with that in mind, first stop: the freezer and that chunk of wild Alaskan salmon we snagged from the in-laws while we were house sitting.

Second stop? The yard. Yard? Wild? Come again?

Trust me on this. The yard is wild. At least we haven’t had anything to do with it for our two years away, and since then? We chopped a few branches off the fig tree so the satellite dish would (ostensibly) work, but yes, the yard is wild. Weeds gone wild, herbs gone wild, and most of all, apple tree gone wild. As in, it’s been two years plus since it met a pair of pruning shears.

fallen

Result? Rosemary, sage, and thyme to gather by the bunch, and apples, apples, everywhere. Most of our apples hit the ground before we could get to them, but even so, we managed a partial harvest — enough for several treats, including this Paper Chef’s dessert.

A note about the apples. I believe they’re Granny Smiths, but in all honesty, I haven’t a clue. All I know is this: they are green, they are sour, they are crisp and they are damn good.

make-shift

Here’s our makeshift studio. It’s a tiny end table atop a coffee table, with a TV tray table to the side to hold the desk lamp. Both desk lamp and the bridge lamp above have full-spectrum daylight bulbs to help with the color balance, and behind the setup, I’ve got an old curtain rod and one of our freshly unpacked curtains, which I think might belong on a window around here somewhere. I’ll figure that one out someday soon.

After we’re settled in (ha ha, in our distant future), I’ll build my first true photo set-up. See, up on the island, we had a luxury — a luxury in summer at least — of an enormous bank of west-facing windows. We were in daylight heaven. Here, well… we’re in a bungalow, a tiny bungalow with tiny windows and tall trees. (My S.A.D. is sad, I tell you.) Photos in natural light will be a rare occurrence this time of year. Or, I should rephrase, considering the current condition of the camera: photos will be a rare occurrence this time of year.

But enough of that. On with the food!

tart, sweet, savory, salmon

For dinner: Butter and herb poached salmon with yellow pepper and sweet vermouth coulis, fried, beer-simmered polenta, and cranberried sugar snap peas.

gelee with a boing

For dessert: Apple champagne gelée, and cranberry gelée parfait with sweet vermouth caramel.

A few short tasting notes:

Here’s the thing about butter poached salmon: It is moist. Scrumptiously, perfectly moist. So moist, that it falls off your fork, and in the end, you’ve got a coulis-slopped plate with flaky, tender bits of salmon all over it (this after you’ve devoured everything else) and you do what makes perfect sense: You roll up the lettuce that was, at the start, intended to be more a decorative bed than a necessary dinner element, and you scoop every last scrap of salmon up, creating one mighty fine salmon salad roll in the process.

And here’s the thing about our rosemary polenta points: I can’t quite explain it, but the rosemary bush in the backyard is beyond this world. This is not your everyday rosemary. This is the most phenomenal, fragrant, tasty rosemary I’ve ever encountered. This is the beluga caviar of rosemary. To kidnap a phrase from a favorite FBI boss of mine, someday I’m going to write an epic poem about this gorgeous rosemary. (But first, I’m going to propagate it!)

And the gelée? A funny thing happened on the way back from the island. We left our crappy old juicer behind because we thought we’d never use it again. So, Chopper didn’t quite have the right tools for the job, and he wasn’t able to get quite enough of the pulp out of the apple juice for the gelée to gel. It was still refreshing, even if the overall effect was unbalanced, and Chopper more than made up for it with his garnish. Yes, what is that crazy thing, anyway?

Why, it’s a boing!

I had a small challenge tracking this puppy down. Google "boing" and "caramel" and you get all sorts of Boing Boing posts and references to "the blogosphere’s yummy, caramel-filled core." (Cool! It’s caramel-filled, like a Cadbury Egg! I never knew!) Add an "s" to the boing’s end, and ah, there it is: Caramel Boings from chef Gale Grand. No pictures though, so we’ll just have to assume that Chopper’s boing is up to boingy par.

not just for summer

A final note, this time having to do with wine: Somewhere around halfway through the preparation, or perhaps it was after we’d tasted the first bit of rosemary and polenta, Chopper asked about wine. Now here’s the thing. Back in early October, we took a trip up to Washington wine country (an unblogged trip, I should add, due to a misbehaving digital camera and a collection of 35mm film rolls not yet sent to the processor) and we accumulated a modest but adventurous collection of wine. Six bottles, I think, and I’d been so resistant to drinking them all up, I’d consistently say "no, maybe later" every time Chopper asked.

Not this time. How about the Pasek Passion Fruit wine, he said. Oh, hell yes. I mean, I’m a sucker for a good sweet wine anyway, but this was genius. By the way, Pasek bills this one as a delicious summer sipper, but who are they kidding? Here’s a secret: tropical wine and tart cranberries? An unexpected match made in heaven.

And as for the curse? Well, it took quite a while to get this post done – we’re down to one fully functioning computer between the two of us – and the evil Blogger BETA is still mucking with our Paper Chef founder and host’s blogging efforts, but we hope Christmas will come just a wee bit early and all will be resolved soon. And Owen, give us a holler if you need a non-Blogger hand. Viva le Chef Papier! Oh, yikes. I spoke French.

Butter and herb poached salmon with yellow pepper and sweet vermouth coulis, fried, beer-simmered polenta, and cranberried sugar snap peas

Serves 4

For the Salmon

  • 1 pound Wild coho salmon fillet, skin removed
  • 2 cups Brut champagne
  • 10 ounces Whole butter, cut into cubes
  • 2 tablespoons Fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
  • 2 tablespoons Fresh sage, roughly chopped
  • 1 tablespoon Fresh marjoram, roughly chopped
  • 10 sprigs Fresh thyme
  • To taste Salt and white pepper

Method

  1. Slice salmon into 1/2 to 3/4 inch slivers and roll into discs, using toothpicks to keep them from unrolling.
  2. In a saucepan, bring champagne to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Reduce champagne by half.
  3. Reduce heat to “low,” and add the butter to the champagne. Whisk or blend until butter is totally emulsified into the liquid, then add the herbs. Season to taste with salt and white pepper.
  4. Bring champagne emulsion to between 160 and 180 F.
  5. Add salmon discs to the liquid and poach for at least 45 minutes, making sure the temperature of the liquid stays between 160 and 180 F.
  6. Remove the toothpicks before plating.

For Coulis

  • 3 Yellow bell peppers
  • 1/2 cup Sweet vermouth
  • 3 ounces Whole butter
  • 1/2 cup Water
  • To taste Salt and white pepper

Method

  1. Rub the peppers with olive oil and roast over a flame or under a broiler until skins are black.
  2. Place roasted peppers in a bowl and cover tightly with plastic. Wait 5 minutes, then peel off the skins and remove stems, seed pods, and white pith.
  3. Place peeled peppers, water, and vermouth in a food processor and purée.
  4. Strain and season to taste and place in a small saucepan over medium heat.
  5. When the puree comes to a simmer, whisk in butter and take off heat.

For the Polenta

  • 3 cups Beer (any kind)
  • 1 cup Polenta
  • 2 tablespoons Extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons Fresh rosemary, roughly chopped
  • To taste Salt and black pepper

Method

  1. In a saucepan, bring beer to a boil.
  2. In a separate pan over medium heat, add olive oil and polenta. Stir to coat, then add beer.
  3. Cover tightly and simmer for 7 to 10 minutes, or until polenta is fully cooked.
  4. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper to taste, and add rosemary.
  5. Pour into an 8 inch square pan and refrigerate until solid.
  6. Cut into desired shapes and sautée in more olive oil until golden brown on both sides.

For Cranberried Peas

  • 1/2 pound Sugar snap peas
  • 1 cup Fresh cranberries
  • 1/2 cup White sugar
  • 3 cups Water

Method

  1. Combine sugar and water, and bring to a boil.
  2. Add cranberries, and boil until tender.
  3. Strain, saving the liquid.
  4. Blanche peas in salted water, and strain.
  5. Combine half of the cranberries with the peas.

 

Apple champagne gelée, and cranberry gelée parfait with sweet vermouth caramel

Serves 4 - 6

For the Apple Champagne Gelée

  • 2 each Granny Smith apples, peeled and juiced
  • 2 cups Champagne
  • 3 teaspoons Powdered gelatin

Method

  1. Combine juice and champagne, and sprinkle gelatin into the liquid.
  2. Wait at least ten minutes for gelatin to bloom.
  3. Heat gently to re-liquefy the mixture in order to mold.


For the Cranberry Gelée

  • Syrup from above cranberried pea recipe
  • 1/2 cup Simmered cranberries
  • 2 teaspoons Powdered gelatin

Method

  1. Purée syrup and cranberries together in a food processor and strain.
  2. Add gelatin and wait at least ten minutes for it to bloom.
  3. Heat gently to re-liquefy the mixture in order to mold.

For Caramel

  • 1 cup Sweet vermouth
  • 2 cups White sugar

Method

  1. Combine ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
  2. When the mixture reaches “hard crack” stage (300 to 310 F) remove from heat.
  3. As the caramel cools mold into desired shapes.

Plating

Layer gelées into desired vessel, allowing each layer to cool before adding the next. Garnish with shaped caramel and a sprig of mint.

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6 Responses to “Paper Chef Mystic #23: The Curse Defying Edition”


  1. Droooool. That’s as eloquent as I can get, given the photographs.


  2. Amazing, amazing! I spent nearly three months without a kitchen while we were remodeling and I never could have pulled this off given your obstacles, let alone the ones I was up against then. Good luck with the photography–I think you’re being too (wittily) pessimistic considering how well these photos turned out!


  3. Hooray! I was dreading that Beta Blogger killed off all the Paper Chef entries. We had a lot of fun last December with the Aussie judging team. It always amazes me what the Dynamic Duo produce under all type of adversities. The dessert sounds wonderful. I must try that boing …:)


  4. Wow! That is one amazing meal! I love your drink garnish.


  5. Thanks everyone! I wish I’d gotten boing-in-progress photos, but I have to admit, I was in the other room and missed the whole thing!


  6. Congrats on your Paper Chef win - the meal looks fabulous! (especially that boing :^) I was planning to use wild caught salmon for my entry, but for a variety of reasons I didn’t manage to get around to it.