Archive for the ‘food blogging events’ Category

December Paper Chef winner!

Saturday, December 27th, 2008

Don’t you just hate December?

No, seriously, bear with me for a moment.

First of all, it means there’s less than a month left in the year and you’ve got to scramble to get done everything you should have been doing in the last eleven months, and on top of that, organize and participate in holiday activities, and then on top of that you’ve got WINTER WEATHER.

Here in Portland, we were caught in the Worst! Snowstorm! In! Forty! Years! Oh sure, it was nothing compared to what you Midwesterners and New Englanders put up with, but we think you’re all crazy anyway. Besides, have pity. We don’t even own snow shovels.

So yeah, what with all this snow and angst there was something fishy (or was that shrimpy) about this year’s December. All this chaos and on top of that, only four entries for Paper Chef!

Judging just four entries, especially when they all look tasty and are all somewhat similar (what, no crabs? No barnacles? No wood lice?) can be a difficult endeavor. For this outing, it came down to favorite details – an ingredient here, a method there.

The four entries were:

Terry from Taste Adventures with her “blood” orange risotto cake, with “drunken” Mexican white shrimp in a blood orange vinaigrette. We were especially impressed with those lip-smackingly large head-on shrimp.

Lori Ann from Lip Smacking Goodness with her double-entry of Shrimp and Rice Empanadas and Spring rolls. Being big fans of stretching that food dollar, we’re always up for extra ingredients and double entries. Also, that sauce sounds delectable!

Sara from Culturally Confused brought us Shrimp in Brandy Cream Sauce. This looked like a perfect meal for a cold December night, and easily adaptable.

Mike from Spikey Mikeys made Blood Orange & Brandy marinated Prawns with Coconut Rice. We’ll forgive him the minor difficulty with shrimp shells (Chopper always cooks shell-on) and admire the Asian influence and attention to detail within the ingredients of the marinade.

In the end, it was that detail and the elegant presentation that won us over, and so the December Paper Chef winner is…

Mike from Spikey Mikeys!

Congratulations, Mike!

And now, gratuitous Shrimp-related content: Our favorite new NBA T-Mobile commercial. Say it with me because it is the tastiest part: “YAO SAYS EAT THE HEAD!”

Allez… Paper Chef #35 is on!

Wednesday, December 3rd, 2008

The ChairmanKitty Kaga, dusted off and ready to report for duty, says…

It’s Paper Chef time!

Since Chopper and I were the lucky winners of last month’s challenge (thanks, Magnus!), we have been given the great privilege of announcing the ingredient list for the December edition of Paper Chef.

What’s Paper Chef? Think Iron Chef without Kitchen Stadium or without judges that include pop stars and members of parliament. Also, you don’t get to taste everyone’s creation. Sorry. No trout ice cream for you!

All the rules and regulations are on the Paper Chef blog, but here’s our super-short version:

The four ingredients are announced on the first Wednesday of the month.

You must use all four of these ingredients* (plus any others you require) to make a dish and then write about it. You may make more than one dish if you’re feeling inspired.

Your deadline is midday the following Tuesday: For this month, that’s Tuesday, December 9th at noon, Pacific Standard Time.

After that, roundup and judging!

(*reasonable substitutions for food allergies or dietary restrictions are allowed.)
High Tech Randomizing Device
Now, on to the ingredients. Using our high-tech, icosahedronal randomizing device (pictured at right), we selected three ingredients from the Paper Chef nomination list:

Rice
Brandy
Blood Oranges

The fourth ingredient is always judges’ discretion, so for this month we’ve decided to take a dip into the nearest body of water and see what pinches. That’s right:

Crustacean.

And by crustacean, we mean any member of that crusty little subphylum: crab, lobster, crayfish, shrimp, barnacle, woodlice, tongue worm… okay maybe not those last two, but you get the picture!

So, have at it, have fun, and we look forward to see you all at the round up!

(Post links to your Paper Chef entries here, and don’t forget to email a link to your entry to paperchef@gmail.com!)

Paper Chef: We missed you too.

Thursday, November 13th, 2008

Turkey Curry (Indian style)

"This is the best Indian curry I’ve ever made," Chopper announced after devouring several bites in rapid succession. "Of course my specialty is Thai curry, but still…"

"Om nom nom," I said.

"Yes," Chopper agreed, "Om nom nom."

We weren’t certain if we were ever going to make it back. After all, a year is an eternity in Internet Time, and during that year, Belly Timber just sat, gathering dust, taunting us with rapidly aging posts.

Then, a couple of weeks ago, it vanished completely. Internal Server Error, our home page announced. I thought: crap. I need to do something about this, pronto… and proceeded to get excessively busy on six other projects. What finally got the ball rolling was Chopper’s incessant chomping at the bit every time anyone would bring up the name "Paper Chef."

"It’s this weekend," I told him. "The ingredients are turkey, Anaheim peppers, winter squash, and lentils."

Within three nanoseconds he was making a shopping list and planning recipes.

And me? I was battling the dreaded Internal Server Error.

Which kinda sorta explains why this entry is so excessively late. (And why you might be reading this on a generic WordPress Template.)

What follows (now that we’ve finally got this blog working again) are three of Chopper’s creations inspired by this month’s set of four ingredients: Meatloaf, Turkey Galantine, and Indian curry. A galantine is a French dish that’s typically made of boned meat wrapped around forcemeat. It is poached, coated in aspic, and served cold. Surprisingly (for us) we skipped the aspic.
Turkey Galantine with Anaheim pepper sauce
The best part about joining in this month: three of these ingredients are large quantity ingredients by default, so we’ve got delicious leftovers for days!

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Paper Chef #25: A (rare) day at home

Wednesday, September 12th, 2007

A (rare) day at home

The happiest recent news in Gastroblogia is that Owen of Tomatilla has revived Paper Chef after a six-month hiatus. Paper Chef was our introduction to the food blogging world, and it’s always been Chopper’s favorite event. He loves the excuse to play.

For this episode, Paper Chef #25, the four ingredients are:

Smoked Swordfish (or any kind of smoked item)
Eggplant
Chiles
Something from home

Now, the irony isn’t lost on us that Owen picked “home” for this month’s theme. Over the past months we’ve rarely ever had time to do much cooking at home. For a while this summer, Chopper was working six days a week with most of those days on shifts that lasted through the dinner hour. “Home” meant “where we crash at the end of a long day” and not much else.

This fall, things are finally looking up in that department, and — quite amazingly — this Paper Chef coincided with two days off wherein we weren’t booked solid with errands and social obligations. Of course those two days were yesterday and Monday so we still ran smack up against (and fell over) today’s deadline. So what else is new?

Given this rare opportunity to play, Chopper gave himself the challenge of creating three dishes: a canapé, a soup, and a main. We picked up a sampling of eggplants and chiles at our favorite Asian market, and for the fish — since smoked swordfish is unheard of in these parts (and I’m not a swordfish fan to begin with) — Chopper found a nice big slab of cod, coated it in spices and threw it on the smoker.

My (ongoing) challenge, in addition to my usual sous chef duties, is to put together a photo post of the day using my old, borrowed camera and Chopper’s computer, which lacks my usual photo editing software. Why that, you ask? Well, remember that computer that needed fixing? Ahhahahah, yup. It’s dead again. Soon as I’m done with this post, I’m constructing a shrine to Saint Isidore.

But first, photos…

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Happy Entrails to You…

Saturday, April 21st, 2007

happy entrails to you

Is English food a joke?

No! It’s not a joke, it’s an adventure!

I happen to believe one should firmly embrace one’s ancestors’ culinary traditions. Especially when one has ancestors who interbred, had bad teeth, killed one another off on a regular basis, and consumed far too many unnervingly rich, meat-based dishes.

proud pig-eating yorkist

I am, of course, talking about the Plantagenets. We’ve got a chart somewhere around here. On it, I can draw a rather crooked line from me back to Henry II. Not that I particularly want to be related to the king who offed Thomas Becket, but I am happy to claim a few other connections, including the fellow on the right here, who was, despite what those bratty Tudors say, a pretty decent guy.

I bet he ate some damned tasty food before riding off into battle.

Like this crazy thing Chopper’s making.

It looks like a sausage, but he tells me it’s called Black Pudding. I am told it is tasty and not at all dangerous. Not like that Black Pudding that enveloped and digested Timion Vayla, my second level paladin in the Dungeon of Aeras Kinth. Boy, was that a bad night.

No, this Black Pudding is made from tasty things like oatmeal and onions. Oh, and pig’s blood. Lots of pig’s blood. Turns out our local Asian market sells pig’s blood by the pint, and when Chopper made this discovery, I knew we were left with only two choices: Black Pudding or a reenactment of the prom night sequence from Carrie. Since the latter would mean a Chopper impersonation of John Travolta, we opted for the Black Pudding.

Now, I haven’t tasted it yet, so I can’t tell you anything about the results. I can tell you that it’s quite black (the hour and a half plus in the oven congealed the blood quite nicely), and the sausage stuffing procedure was quite messy. So messy, in fact, I may have give up that fantasy I have about CSI Warrick Brown showing up at the door with a spray bottle of Luminol. Far, far too risky.

On the bright side, no prom dresses were ruined in the procedure, and I’d like to think we did my Plantagenet ancestors proud. Especially the ones who preferred a good feast over a good beheading.

(Next: we devour the happy entrails and live to tell the tale.)

Mac-n-Cheese: The Final Frontier

Friday, January 5th, 2007

mac n' cheese, all goat

Prologue:
At first, I was horrified. Cookiecrumb and Kevin hosting a Mac-n-Cheese event? But I can’t! You don’t understand. I just can’t. I cried to Chopper: Look what they’re doing, I said. How cruel. How evil. Can I ever forgive them? If you make mac-n-cheesy goodness and eat it alone, can I ever forgive you? Chopper merely shrugged and said, hey, it’s me here. I can make it happen. I bit my lip in fear. But… the history, I whimpered… my history…

1.A cheesy childhood.
Oh dear lord did I love mac-n-cheese as a child. It wasn’t just that it was vast and goopy and satisfying beyond all reason, or that it sometimes held the exquisite secret of little salami nuggets, tucked beneath its placid surface. No, it was this: It lacked vegetables. And for a child, especially one in a house wherein vegetables were routinely cooked to oblivion, this was nirvana. I always went back for seconds. Sometimes even thirds or fourths. If the mac-n-cheese pot had been bottomless and my plate accompanied by an equally bottomless glass of Nestle’s Quick, I would never have left the table. Not even for episodes of Star Trek.

2.College in a box
When one is single and one is in college and living in a tiny apartment, one’s episodes of Star Trek are accompanied by a box. The blue kind. You know the one. Gross, eh? I bet Spock’s Plomeek soup never tasted so bad. Perhaps it was just the way I (ineptly) cooked it, but my Kraft mac-n-cheese always came out a little gritty. Not that this stopped me. Nope, not one bit. After all, it was cheap and easy and isn’t college all about cheap and easy? Hey! I’m talking about food, here.

3.Is that a shot put in my gut, or am I just sorry I ate you?
We’re on break from the gaming session, it’s been five weeks and still no one knows my red shirt security goon is really a Romulan spy. I love surgical alteration. Now, if only I could get some surgical alteration on my gut, I could make it through this cheesy meal without feeling like I’ve been injected with an elephant’s dose of cordrazine. What is up with this? I used to love mac-n-cheese and now I can barely touch the stuff. Could it be… no, say not so! It’s true. My gut hates cows.

4.Cold turkey (sandwiches)
Are you coming over for dinner, the in-law says, I’m making mac-n-cheese! I attempt to hide my sour face and fail miserably. Oh, right (now, she remembers), you can’t do cheese. There’s some cold turkey in the fridge! Dave can make you a sandwich! I try very hard not to pout, but I’m just not good at it. Oh, I’ve no doubt the sandwich will be just dandy. Heck, it may even have fancy Dijon mustard on it, but must I watch everyone else eat mac-n-cheese? Can’t I go downstairs to the family room instead? C’mon, Sci Fi Channel’s running a marathon, and I could be communing with Chekov and the space hippies right this very instant! Hey! You think they solved lactose intolerance in the 23rd century?

5.Nirvana, with goat.
So, if I’m going to make it, Chopper says, I’m going to make the creamy kind. Not that crusty stuff that ends up tasting like a rubber waffle. We’ll have to get kasseri, since we know it melts and we know you can eat it, and we’ll need something other than cow’s milk. Um, I say, just a wee bit optimistic for once, would you believe I saw a quart of goat’s milk in the health food section at Fred Meyer? No way! Way! We (boldly) go, we shop, we find. Chopper cooks. He serves me up a small but perfect portion (not too much on my first try in over a decade), and I take a bite. Simple, unadorned with frivolity save for a dash of smoked paprika and a sprig of fresh thyme. Creamy, just like Mom used to make. I am in nirvana. Hey, I think, I should eat this in front of the telly with the boys in gold, red, and blue. But, damn, SciFi channel never shows Trek episodes anymore. Ah well, that’s okay. I get to eat mac-n-cheese.

Goatie Mac-n-Cheese

Ingredients

  • 1 ounce Whole Butter
  • 1 ounce Unbleached white flour
  • 1/2 pound Kasseri cheese
  • 1 pint Goat milk
  • 1/2 pound Dry rigatoni
  • To taste Salt and white pepper

Method

  1. Cook the rigatoni until “al dente,” then strain and set aside.
  2. Melt butter in a medium-sized sauce pan. Add flour, mix thoroughly to make a roux, and cook until a “popcorn” aroma can be detected.
  3. Add milk and whisk until the roux is completely mixed in. Then bring to a boil, and quickly reduce to a simmer. Reduce by one quarter. Some milk will burn to the bottom of the pan, DO NOT WHISK BURNT MILK INTO THE SAUCE. (He really means this!)
  4. Add the cheese and stir until it is all melted.
  5. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce, stir to coat. Serve hot, garnish with a sprinkle of smoked paprika and fresh thyme leaves.

mac n' cheese with dog


Look! A Technorati tag!

Paper Chef Mystic #23: The Curse Defying Edition

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

painter's meal

It was the event that almost wasn’t. The event that re-emerged from the abyss, from the long lost annals of Gastroblogian history, stifled by photographic traumas, by the death cries of a computer far past its prime, and by the evils of a creature known only by the minacious name Blogger BETA.

The event, Paper Chef, mystic number 23.

The task: complete a dish using the following ingredients: cranberries, vermouth, a sparkling drink, and something wild.

The obstacles? A first gourmet meal in a kitchen half-unpacked. A photographic session in a studio cobbled together from end tables and random draperies. An unfamiliar camera, on brief loan. An ailing computer, resistant to all WinExplorational cooperation. And at the last, the evil BETA beast, chomping its way through the blogosphere, disrupting our illustrious host’s posting efforts.

Could we be cursed, we ask?

No. We refuse to believe it. And why? Because this meal was just too damned good.

gelee with a boing

It’s true, I confess it. We haven’t finished unpacking our kitchen. We’ve got reasons, many of which I’ll explain another day, but in brief, we’re still using our picnic basket plasticware, and we’ve no idea where we put our favorite can opener. Not that this will stop us.

It’s also true: Our camera is broken, my computer’s throwing tantrums (Lappy jealousy, I’m certain of it), and we’ve yet to figure out where we can set up a reasonable spot for food (or for that matter, craft) photos. Not that we’re deterred by this either, dang it all.

Nope. We’re determined. We’ve been away from our favorite food blogging event far too long. We’ve had too many months without proper kitchen access at all.

herbs, untended

And so, Paper Chef Weekend, we took to the store, and subsequently armed with a bag of cranberries, a bottle of sweet vermouth, and a glug of cheap champagne, we embarked upon our search for something wild. And cheap. Cheap is good. We’re on a scary budget these days. And with that in mind, first stop: the freezer and that chunk of wild Alaskan salmon we snagged from the in-laws while we were house sitting.

Second stop? The yard. Yard? Wild? Come again?

Trust me on this. The yard is wild. At least we haven’t had anything to do with it for our two years away, and since then? We chopped a few branches off the fig tree so the satellite dish would (ostensibly) work, but yes, the yard is wild. Weeds gone wild, herbs gone wild, and most of all, apple tree gone wild. As in, it’s been two years plus since it met a pair of pruning shears.

fallen

Result? Rosemary, sage, and thyme to gather by the bunch, and apples, apples, everywhere. Most of our apples hit the ground before we could get to them, but even so, we managed a partial harvest — enough for several treats, including this Paper Chef’s dessert.

A note about the apples. I believe they’re Granny Smiths, but in all honesty, I haven’t a clue. All I know is this: they are green, they are sour, they are crisp and they are damn good.

make-shift

Here’s our makeshift studio. It’s a tiny end table atop a coffee table, with a TV tray table to the side to hold the desk lamp. Both desk lamp and the bridge lamp above have full-spectrum daylight bulbs to help with the color balance, and behind the setup, I’ve got an old curtain rod and one of our freshly unpacked curtains, which I think might belong on a window around here somewhere. I’ll figure that one out someday soon.

After we’re settled in (ha ha, in our distant future), I’ll build my first true photo set-up. See, up on the island, we had a luxury — a luxury in summer at least — of an enormous bank of west-facing windows. We were in daylight heaven. Here, well… we’re in a bungalow, a tiny bungalow with tiny windows and tall trees. (My S.A.D. is sad, I tell you.) Photos in natural light will be a rare occurrence this time of year. Or, I should rephrase, considering the current condition of the camera: photos will be a rare occurrence this time of year.

But enough of that. On with the food!

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La Festa al Fresco: A Farmers Market Bounty

Monday, September 4th, 2006

perfectly stuffed patty pan

We come bearing tasty gifts from the Portland Farmers Market!

Oh, yes I know, we’re last minute (yet again), but allow me to explain. See, Friday, we had every intention of participating in this month’s Paper Chef. We tossed ideas about — meat pies and paté for the most part — and briefly considered calling up an unsuspecting relative to take over their kitchen for a weekend afternoon (our current kitchen access being spotty, at best). But then, Saturday morning, everything changed.

Portland Farmers Market

Saturday morning, we went to the Portland Farmers Market.

And at the Portland Farmers Market, one is generally not lured in by such things as fermented black soy beans and giblets, two of this month’s Paper Chef foursome.

No, indeed. Instead, we heard the siren call of maitake mushrooms, patty pan squash, and glorious, fat leeks for a dollar a piece.

Mushroom Bounty at Portland Farmers Market

(Okay, so we didn’t exactly hear the call — the market is rather noisy and what with that odd band playing some sort of world beat, syncopated version of the 70′s disco hit “Ring My Bell,” well, the quiet voices of vegetables and fungi were completely drowned out. But boy did they look good!)

So we brought them home, stashed them away near last week’s Moreland Farmers Market purchase of Pale Blue Ewe from the Black Sheep Creamery in Southern Washington, and were promptly distracted by household and family issues.

Try some cheese!  Moreland Farmers Market

That is, until tonight when Chopper announced he was going to make goat cheese stuffed patty pans with crispy pan fried leeks and sautéed maitake mushrooms. (And, after a quick and boisterous exclamation of YUM, I scampered to the computer, double-checked the date and the rules and declared: Hey! This is perfect for Festa al Fresco!)

So, to Ivonne and Lis, I hope we’re not too late to join the party! Chopper finished our dish just as the sun lost itself behind the giant elms and maples to the west, but the hazy summer light lingered long enough for me to snap a few shots out on the porch railing of our current, temporary abode. Look! There’s even a tree in the background. Perfect for a picnic!

sauteed maitake temptation

Roasted, Stuffed Patty Pan Squash

Ingredients

  • 4 Patty Pan squash
  • 1/4 cup Black Sheep Creamery “Pale Blue Ewe” cheese, grated
  • 8 ounces Chevre, any flavor
  • 1/2 cup Panko
  • 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
  • 1 teaspoon Smoked paprika
  • 1 teaspoon Dried thyme leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon Black pepper

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
  2. Take the squash and trim the blossom end in order to make a level platform for them to sit on. Then hollow out the top with a Parisian scoop (a.k.a melon-baller).
  3. Mash the chevre and the blue cheese together in a small bowl. When they are thoroughly combined, stuff the cheese blend into the hollowed out squashes, mounding it high.
  4. Combine panko, parmesan, paprika, thyme, and pepper in a bowl. Then coat the squash with oil and dip the cheese into the breading mixture.
  5. Place breaded squash onto a parchment-covered sheet pan and into the oven. Roast for 20-25 minutes.
  6. Serve with crispy, pan fried leeks, and sautéed maitake mushrooms.

Paper Chef 20: The Final Island Edition

Monday, August 7th, 2006

Paper Chef 20: Spicy Braised Short Ribs with Duelling Gastriques

This is our last Paper Chef in this house.

In two and a half weeks, we’ll be moving back to Portland after 20 months of camping out and caregiving on an island we only occasionally called home. I can’t say that we’ll miss this disastrously tiny and ill-equipped kitchen, but we will have fond memories of a few small miracles we were able to pull out of the chaos.

At long last, this Fall, we’ll be back in our own home sweet home and our own kitchen. Sure it’s in serious need of updating — the linoleum floor has divots you could hide a mouse in, the drawer faces have a habit of falling off at inconvenient times, and there’s no dishwasher — but it’s ours, ALL ours, and that’s what counts!

But, because we’re here and because it’s Paper Chef time once again, we had to create just one last bit of chaos before we ramble on, and this time we had a grand bit of help from the annals of Paper Chef history and our bloggy neighbors from Down Under.

This month’s ingredients? Peaches, cherries, something hot & spicy, and a “new herb.” Now, by “new,” our Paper Chef host, Owen (welcome back, Owen!) means something we’ve not tried before. Not an easy command for Chopper to follow, as he’s used just about every herb on the island and then some.

But wait! What about that scrumptious and heady prize we received from Noodle Cook for Paper Chef 13? Aussie herbs and spices, the likes of which we’d never seen before? Perfect!

For this challenge we bent the rules a tiny bit to include spices (though by strict definition, two out of our three selections are ground leaves and should be considered herbs) and chose one for each of Chopper’s dishes. For his Tandoori Style Chicken with Stone Fruit Chutney, Chopper used Mountain Pepper Leaf, for the Chile Rellenos with Stone Fruit Salsa, Lemon Myrtle, and for the Spicy Braised Short Ribs with Dueling Gastriques, Wattle Seed. All three of these spices came from the Oz Tukka “A Taste of Australia” gift pack, part of our wonderful gift from Noodle Cook and his fellow Paper Chef 13 judges.

The gift pack includes five spices (ours has Mountain Pepper Berries and Bush Tomatoes in addition to the three we used for this adventure), and a helpful flyer with spice information on one side and recipes on the other. Not that Chopper used any of those recipes. For him it’s all about sample and invent first, read what others do later.

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The Spice is Right: Salmon Ceviche

Saturday, July 15th, 2006

Salmon Ceviche

Finally!

For the past three months we’ve had a hankering in the worst way to participate in Barbara’s The Spice is Right over at Tigers and Strawberries, and for the past three months, our cooking schedule (such as it is) has failed us. But not this time! Not when chiles are on the menu and Chopper’s in the kitchen.

This month’s theme, It’s Too Darned Hot, brings to mind a myriad of tongue-burning dishes, but our inspiration comes from the cold waters of the North. Copper River, Alaska, to be exact, and that slab of salmon at the local market that was just too darned good of a deal to pass up.

But what to make with salmon and chiles — especially when the goal is to feature the chiles? Something cold for our hot summer weather, perhaps? Something with an extra chile kick to make cooling off all the better?

Ah, that’s it. Skip the oven altogether and make ceviche.

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Piggy Goes to War

Wednesday, July 12th, 2006

(In our so-tardy-it-shouldn’t-count second entry for Paper Chef, we stick close to home for our tale of Independence. How close to home? Oh, about 400 yards up the road. And as for that tardy thing — what was it the late, great Douglas Adams once said? Oh yes: “I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by.” Words to live by.)

Belly Timber Presents The Pig War

So, Independence Day, yet again.

You probably thought we Yanks were done with those pesky Brits back in 1776. Wrong. ‘Round these parts, sovereignty didn’t get settled till almost a hundred years later. We blame the pig.

The roots of our story can be traced back to Article III of the Treaty of 1818: the joint occupation of Oregon Country by the United States and Great Britain. How the treaty signers thought two countries vying for land claims and navigation rights would resolve any boundary issues is anyone’s guess, but nevertheless, the increasingly tumultuous Oregon Country free-for-all continued for 28 years, until, in 1846, the two sides determined they’d had enough. They signed the Oregon Treaty on June 15th, set the border between the US and Canada at the 49th Parallel (excepting lower Vancouver Island), and that was that.

Or so they thought.

Trouble is, the folks signing the treaty were, to put it bluntly, cartographically inept. The border between Canada’s Vancouver Island and the US mainland, they said, should lie down the middle of the “major channel” through the islands. Easy to say if there’s one major channel.

Not so easy if there are two.

And not at all easy if both Yanks and Brits are enjoying the resources of the group of islands that lie in the middle.

And so, while politicians squabbled over maps and over which strait was “major” — Haro to the west or Rosario to the east — settlers arrived from other parts of the continent and soon American “squatters” (as the British preferred to call them), had laid claim to land just a stone’s throw from the sheep runs of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Belle Vue Farm at the southern end of San Juan Island.

And for the most part, the sheep ran along their runs, and the handful of Americans eked out a living on their tiny parcels of land (which the British insisted were most decidedly not theirs), and all was, if not calm, at least not explosively tense.

Until the pig entered the picture.

For sheep will trot right past a farmer’s potato patch, even if there’s nothing much for fencing in their way, but pigs, or more specifically Berkshire boars? They’re born for rooting, and when they sense potatoes, they have at it.

And having at it was just what one particular Hudson’s Bay Company pig was doing in Lyman Cutlar’s potato patch on the morning of June 15th, 1859. And Cutlar had had enough. He grabbed his rifle and shot it.

Charles Griffin, Belle Vue Farm’s manager, was not pleased in the least. He demanded exorbitant compensation. Cutlar, being an obstinate sort, refused. Griffin, being equally obstinate, demanded Cutlar’s arrest. A blink of an eye later, the American settlers on San Juan Island (all 18 of them or so) had armed themselves and were demanding military protection.

In July, the first American soldiers arrived. In August, British war ships. By the end of the summer, the count was Americans: 461, British 2,140, and — most happily for all involved — not a single casualty of war.

Except, of course, for the pig.

This peaceful standoff — so peaceful that troops from both sides celebrated holidays together and held sporting events on the prairie at American Camp — continued for 13 years. In November of 1872, the Royal Marines withdrew from English Camp at the north end of the island, not because they’d been defeated in battle, or even because the Crown had called it quits. No, in fact, the American and British governments did what governments do so well in border disputes such as this: they passed the buck. They turned to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany and said, excuse me, could you figure this one out for us?

And, after a year of meetings by his three-man commission in Geneva, Kaiser Wilhelm did just that, and ruled in favor of the United States.


These days, the Pig War is serious business. We’ve got our two National Parks, the 4th of July Pig War Barbecue, the Pig War Museum, Encampment, over a dozen books about the subject, and no doubt a good forty other things I’ve forgotten. Truly, there’s a bit of a porcine glut in these parts.

Even so, when it came time to commemorate Independence Day (or rather the San Juan Island version with all its local piggy trappings) we couldn’t resist adding our own culinary homage to the mix. And, because we are (as I mentioned in the intro) only 400 yards from where this all happened, I took said homage on a field trip.

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Paper Chef #19: Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Monday, July 10th, 2006

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Paper Chef, July Independence Edition

The ingredients

  • Corn
  • Ground Coriander
  • Pine Nuts
  • And (from Kevin at Seriously Good): The wild card for this event is Independence Day. Whether you’re American, Ethiopian, Chilean, or Thai, create a recipe that celebrates your nation’s emancipation from its previous rulers or form of government or whatever other thing celebrated to honor nationhood.

So, because we’re contrary sorts, we’ve got two entries into this month’s Paper Chef and neither of them have anything to do with July 4th.

Oh sure, we had a billion Independence Day ideas: Grit Cakes with Boston Harbor Tea (pre-dumping, of course), Firecracker Popcorn, The Most Frightening Apple Pie Ever, Pine Nut and Coriander Encrusted Corn Dogs, but truthfully, I think the onslaught of holiday tourists to our tiny island was just too much for us to bear, and by midweek we were ready to step out into the middle of Spring Street with a bull horn and direct all traffic off the docks and into the harbor.

In short, we are over the whole 4th of July celebration thing. So very, very over it.

So, for our first entry, we declare ourselves Citizens of the World (or at least of North America), and as such we are celebrating El Grito de Independencia, Mexican Independence Day.

Which is not, some may be surprised to learn, Cinco de Mayo!

El Grito de Independencia (the cry of independence) is a festival that begins on the night of September 16th with a reenactment by Mexico’s current president of the famous Grito de Dolores of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the priest who, in 1810, changed the course of Mexican history with a ring of his village church bell and a cry to his countrymen to rise up against Spanish rule. And though Hildalgo himself was captured and executed in 1811, the fight for independence continued and was eventually won in February of 1821.

Now, Chopper’s the lucky one. He’s been to Mexico, eaten the fabulous food (and no doubt consumed more tequila than he’d care to tell me). Someday soon, he hopes to return and bring me with him and we’ll take the tour, Rick Bayless style.

Meanwhile, for our El Grito de Independencia Paper Chef entry, we’ve got a list of Mexican ingredients a mile long, all worthy of the number 4 spot on our Paper Chef ingredient list, but in the spirit of competition, I’m going to pick the one that makes this Chopper invention unique: Nopales — prickly pear cactus pads.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

For the masa

  • 2 cups Masa Harina
  • 3 cups Home made chicken stock, slightly warmed
  • 1/2 cup Pine nuts, raw
  • 1 teaspoon Salt

Method

  1. Place masa harina in a large mixing bowl.
  2. Grind pine nuts in a food processor or mortar and pestle and add to the masa.
  3. Add stock and salt to the bowl, and mix thoroughly.
  4. Allow bowl to sit for about five minutes, or until the masa is a very soft dough.

For the filling

  • 2 pounds Turkey hindquarter meat, roughly cubed
  • 3 cups Home made chicken stock
  • 2 2/3 tablespoons, Coriander seed, toasted
  • 1 tablespoon Cumin seed, toasted
  • 5 Chipotles marinated in adobo sauce
  • To taste Salt and pepper

Method

  1. Puree the chipotles and grind the toasted spices in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.
  2. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium high heat and add enough oil to coat the bottom.
  3. Add the turkey and brown evenly.
  4. Add the stock to the pan and bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer.
  5. Add the chipotles and ground spices and cover tightly.
  6. Cook for 30-35 minutes or until turkey is fork tender, then remove the top and reduce away the liquid.
  7. Season with salt and pepper.

For the salsa

  • 3 Medium tomatoes, diced small
  • 1/2 Sweet onion, diced small
  • 3 Serrano chiles, diced small
  • 1 bunch Fresh cilantro, minced
  • 2 Limes, juiced
  • To taste Salt and pepper

Method

  1. Combine ingredients in a non-reactive (i.e. non metal) bowl, and season with salt and pepper.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

To assemble

  1. Preheat and oven to 375 F.
  2. Carefully split open eight nopales along their length and fill with a “pocket” of the masa.
  3. Place a layer of the turkey filling into the “pocket,” then cover with another layer of masa.
  4. Place the tamales in a roasting pan and coat with oil.
  5. Place pan in the oven and roast for 20-30 minutes or until the masa turns golden brown and crunchy.
  6. Serve with refried black beans, a generous crumbling of queso fresco, and a huge spoonful of salsa.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

What I love most about Chopper’s exploration of Mexican cuisine is the closer and closer he gets to the authentic, the further and further he moves from the horrid, cheese-laden Americanized crap we find at so many poor excuses for Mexican restaurants in these parts. Not that he ever cooked horrid, cheese-laden crap, mind you. I think of it more as an ongoing discovery on my part of just how good Mexican food can be. And, I should add, how good it can be for my poor, lactose-intolerant digestion! Swap out the quesa fresca with a little goat cheese and I’m set. Can’t get that sort of goodness at Chevy’s!

(In just a bit, I’ll post our second contribution to this month’s Paper Chef. It is, I promise, quite scholarly and historical in nature and entirely lacking in silly content involving a meal dressed as a pig. Okay, I lied about that last part.)

Vodka Watermelon Canada Day Sorbet

Saturday, July 1st, 2006

Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup

Our tiny kitchen in this home away from home of ours is rife with tragedies (don’t get me started on this week’s flood), but during the hottest of summer days, perhaps our greatest sadness comes not from the kitchen itself but from our lack of an ice cream maker. True, ice cream with actual cream in it is an evil that must be avoided by Mrs D’s tummy at all costs, but what of sorbets? Soy gelatos? Frozen yogurts? Must I debase myself by buying hideous supermarket products, laden with high fructose corn syrup? No! I won’t have it!

And so, because I long for the real thing, and because Chopper makes it so well, I must sneak off to his place of work every so often and sample his latest concoction.

Last time (back on Chopper Day) it was rum raisin ice cream and my tummy only allowed me the tiniest of bites.

But this time… ah, this time: Sorbet! And not just any sorbet, but the perfect holiday weekend treat of Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup! Oh, hell yum. There’s nothing… nothing at all like homemade sorbet with real fruit, not to mention a good top shelf vodka. It’s not sticky. It’s not cloyingly sweet. It’s just the perfect frozen cocktail refreshment for a warm summer evening.

Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup

I dropped by Chopper’s work last night to snag a few photos (and devour this tasty treat) just in time for the Canada Day Ice Cream Event over at sweet pleasure : plaisir sucré.

(Okay, so Sam at sweet pleasure : plaisir sucré didn’t actually call it a Canada Day event, but since he’s from Canada and since I am always happy to proudly wave my maple leaf of dual citizenship, I say it’s a Canada Day event! (Which probably means Chopper should have made something strictly Canadian for his sorbet, eh? Ah well, watermelon vodka will have to do. And do quite nicely, thank you very much!)

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Paper Chef #17: Tapas! Tapas! Tapas!

Monday, May 8th, 2006

Spicy Paper Chef Clams

Not so long ago, I ducked back into our archives to take a peek at the very first comments left on our infant blog, just over a year ago. Turns out, comment #1 was left by Jen of Life Begins at 30, comment #2 by Kevin of Seriously Good, and comment #3 by Owen of Tomatilla!.

How appropriate is that?

See, here we are, launching into the first Paper Chef since our one year Blogiversary, and not only is Kevin hosting (while Owen takes a much-deserved break), but this month’s theme includes local ingredients, in solidarity with the Eat Local Challenge, organized by Jen! It’s The Circle of Knife Life, Paper Chef style!

Now, some of our more observant readers (okay, okay, everyone) will notice that we haven’t been posting much lately. It’s spring fever, I tell you. It’s going around. The garden calls my name, the pooch begs for serious ball time; who am I to ditch that in favor of slouching at the computer?

But, when Chopper read this month’s ingredients and went on an immediate culinary brainstorm binge, I knew my time away had to end. Chopper cooks and I must blog.

And boy oh boy did he cook this time. Seriously. This food is so damn tasty, I want to head to the kitchen for seconds, thirds, and fourths before I type up another paragraph.

Hang on. Just a sec…

Inside the Empanada

Okay, back.

(Dusts crumbs off keyboard.)

Now, where was I?

Ah yes, the ingredients. For this month, Kevin used his fine scientific skills in Haberdasherdivination to produce these pleasing results:

Lavender
Miso
Chickpeas
Something local

And Chopper, because he loves this style of food (and no, not because we’re trendy, dammit! We’re NOT trendy!), immediately announced his decision to produce a four course tapas extravaganza, with a different local ingredient for each course.

For our local ingredients, we hit three places: the Farmers’ Market, Westcott Bay Sea Farms, and, er, our freezer.

Now, here’s the thing about eating local on the island in May: There’s not a heck of a lot available. The San Juan Island Farmers’ Market (in its weekly, outdoor incarnation) has only been running two weeks now, and at last Saturday’s visit, I counted a grand total of 15 stalls, only three of which were actually selling produce. This time of year, local produce means greens, greens, and more greens, with the occasional baby root vegetable thrown in. Lucky for us, greens at the Farmers’ Market are surprisingly cheap — especially compared to later season vegetables (and to the scary-expensive $6.99/lb bucket of “organic mixed greens” at the grocer’s).

Baby turnips and sorrel

In our short jaunt along the thoroughfare (I’d say main thoroughfare, but at this market, there’s only one thoroughfare), we scored green garlic from Blue Moon Produce, and sorrel and a lovely bunch of baby turnips with greens attached from Thousand Flower Farm. (Total cost for the three bunches: $5.50) Both of these farms are located on Waldron Island, a remote island northwest of Orcas that’s known for its amazing produce. (For a great chapter on the farmers of Waldron, I highly recommend Greg Atkinson’s book In Season: Culinary Adventures of a San Juan Chef.)

Next, it was off to Westcott Bay Sea Farms for clams, because as far as Chopper is concerned a tapas spread just isn’t a tapas spread without clams.

Westcott bay clams

Lastly, we took a trip to our freezer where, among all the other oddities that deny us room for ice cubes, Chopper had stashed a pair of lamb’s kidneys. Yes, local lamb’s kidneys. These particular kidneys came from last year’s farmer’s market and from Local Island Meats, a stand run by the fine folks at Z Lazy J Farm & Feed, which is located just a few miles up the road from us. Chopper had been saving them for steak and kidney pie, but this weekend, they just screamed empanada filling.

Now, how close to home did we find these goodies?

Well, inspired by Tana’s Chefs & Farms map over at Small Farms, I’ve launched Island Local, a map for San Juan County growers and producers of culinary products. So far, I’ve just marked the locations listed above, but I’ll be adding more in the weeks to come. (Now, if I can just get Platial to recognize all these wacky island addresses…)

In case you’re wondering, Casa Belly Timber is just south of the map’s visible area, right below the ©2006.

A quick word about our other ingredients:

We discovered, though it wasn’t much of a shock, that neither of the two grocers on the island carry dried chickpeas, so all of our dishes were made with the canned variety. The miso was from a container of shiro miso paste already in our fridge, lucky for us.

Our attempt to use local lavender in addition to our other local ingredients was thwarted by two things: our own tiny lavender plant that’s not even close to blooming, and the exorbitant price the local lavender farm charges for their culinary lavender. Don’t get me wrong, there are many things I love about the lavender farm, especially in mid-July when the fields are all in bloom, but nine bucks for a container the size of a tin of shoe polish? That’s not one of ‘em. So, our lavender came from an herb and spice distributor and I haven’t the foggiest idea where it’s grown.

Chopper made all four of these dishes at once so we could have a true tapas spread (and I could go a little nuts with the photography). I garnished everything with herbs from our garden, quickly snapped away, and then we dug in. And oh, was it good.

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What’s For Pud? Figgy-dowdy!

Sunday, April 23rd, 2006


We’ll rant and we’ll roar like true British sailors,
We’ll range and we’ll roam over all the salt seas,
Until we strike soundings in the Channel of old England:
From Ushant to Scilly ’tis thirty-five leagues.
    — traditional sea shanty, as sung by the crew of the HMS Polychrest

For this post, in honor of St. George’s Day and Sam and Monkey Gland’s inspired food blogging event, What’s For Pud, Belly Timber takes to the high seas.

Or, to be more precise, Belly Timber takes to the English Channel, and to a rather peculiar double-ended boat and its famous captain, Lucky Jack Aubrey.

What’s What’s For Pud, you ask, and what the devil does it have to do with sailors?

Exactly this: What’s For Pud is a celebration of English ‘afters’ — pud, pudding, biscuits, sweets — those sticky sweet, scrumptious dishes that prove wrong all the naysayers who turn their noses up at quintessential English cuisine. And we here at Belly Timber, being rather nautically inclined to begin with, believe that nowhere else can one find dishes more quintessentially English than aboard the great ships of the British Navy during the Golden Age of Sail.

Because, as we know, meals aboard Lord Nelson’s fleet were all about two glorious things: Rum and suet.

Yes, I did indeed say suet.

And nice big bottles o’ rum, by gum.

Which brings us to our splendid St. George’s Day dish: Figgy-dowdy.

figgy-dowdy

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SHF #18: Holy Crepes, it’s Chopper Day!

Friday, April 21st, 2006

Rum Poached Apple Crepes

Happy Chopper Day!

It’s not his birthday. Our anniversary isn’t for another two months, so there’s really nothing special about this occasion at all, though it is Sugar High Friday and Chopper’s got a new rum poached dessert on the menu at his place of work.

Oh, and this week marks a year since Chopper’s official graduation from culinary school.

And that, in itself is extra special.

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Poach Me Deadly (an EoMEoTE tale of passion and poultry)

Monday, April 10th, 2006

Poach Me Deadly, a noir drama of passion and poultry, was inspired by far too many movies to count, and by Chopper’s delicious Eggs en Plastic recipe, which you’ll find at the end of this tale. Chopper’s recipe was inspired by a passage in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour, wherein Bourdain describes a chef using truffle oil and plastic wrap to poach an egg. For more hard boiled adventures (and more egg puns than you can shake a whisk at), visit this month’s End of Month Eggs on Toast Extravaganza over at Dispensing Happiness. Also, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that some of the most egregious jokes in Poach Me Deadly are entirely Chopper’s fault.

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Fusing the Wild Vindaloo

Thursday, March 30th, 2006

Lamb Vindaloo

“Of course! Lager! The only thing that can kill a Vindaloo!”
Dave Lister, Red Dwarf

We can’t help it. Someone mentions Indian food, and soon enough someone mentions vindaloo, and the next thing you know, we’re off on tangents involving curry monsters from outer space. Silly DNA modifiers, acting up again.

But, where the vindaloo mutations on board the good ship Red Dwarf are quite dangerous and must be dealt with (Leopard Lager into the beast’s maw generally does the trick), here on Earth, and at Casa Belly Timber, we find the notion of vindaloo mutations quite intriguing and potentially delicious.

And so, even though we’ve been horrifically busy of late, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join this month’s From my Rasoi event over at Meena’s Hooked on Heat, and create a bit of Indian fusion of our own.

This month’s theme: Pick a favorite international dish and give it an Indian flavor. Now we mulled this over a bit, pondering pasta, contemplating enchiladas, but in the end we agreed that there was nothing we wanted to do more than tame a wild vindaloo and turn it into the perfect Red Dwarf party food, because if a bunch of scifi geeks like us are going to get together to watch episodes of our favorite British science fiction comedy, the last thing we should do is order our pizza from Domino’s.

Lamb Vindaloo Naanizza

That’s right, pizza! Delicious, steeped in the flavors of India, lamb vindaloo pizza. Or, as Chopper calls it, because he just can’t help himself…

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Dine & Dish #6: Amazing Graze

Thursday, March 2nd, 2006

yum yum dim sum

Pssst. I’m cheating.

See, I’ve got something I want to write about for the newest edition of Dine and Dish from The Delicious Life, but I need to break the rules.

It’s not that I intend to write about something other than a restaurant that serves small plates — oh, I’m all about multitudes of small plates (just ask the nurse who weighed me in at the doctor’s office today) — it’s that time frame thing that’s got me in a pickle.

More specifically, this, Sarah’s rule #2:

Go eat any time betwixt now and Monday, February 27, 2006.

(“Now” being February 3rd when Sarah posted her announcement.)

First, can I tell you where we’ve eaten betwixt February 3rd and February 27th? Aside from around our dining room table or in front of the telly laughing at melodramatic ice dancers, that is?

   The pub.
   The Thai place for lunch.
   The pub again.
   The crappy Chinese place when the pub was unexpectedly closed.
   Oh, yeah, and the pub again.

Note the alarming trend. The trend that screams: It’s Off-Season! It’s the pub or (almost) nothing, baby, cuz until the spring tourists arrive, this place is all about wonky restaurant hours and tiny paychecks.

Yup, winter on the island; so not conducive to culinary exploration.

Not that we’ve got much of that to begin with, mind you. Take this month’s Dine and Dish theme, for example. Amazing Graze? Small plates? I can think of one — yup, one — restaurant that falls under that category on this island, and go figure, we already covered it back in Dine and Dish #3: The Freshman.

Now the Thai place could count as a small plate venue — if we were to write about their spring rolls — but we got that one back in Dine and Dish #4: Rachael Ray for a Day.

And the pub? Hah. Been there, done that in Dine and Dish #1: Barfly. Not that their plates are even remotely small, mind you.

So, nothing left to write about. Or, I cheat.

Which (after this absurdly long preamble), brings me to the place I want to tell you about. The place that’s 251 miles (plus ferry ride) away and we haven’t been to since Christmas. Chopper’s and my favorite dim sum joint, Fong Chong, in Portland’s Chinatown.

a lion's appetite for dim sum

Now Fong Chong isn’t much to look at — in fact it’s got detractors who bitch about the lack of atmosphere (as if that’s more important than a damn fine steamed hum bow) — but we’re not here for pretty décor. I can find plenty of places that scream heavenly temple and serve up deep fried MSG-laden crap any day of the week. Well, any day I’m in an actual city, mind you.

No, Fong Chong is not about elegance. It’s a cavern of a space with scuffed floors and smudgy windows, but it holds a special place in our hearts and come hell or high water, when we take a trip to Portland, we make a stop at Fong Chong.

My first time dining out with Chopper’s parents was at Fong Chong. It was one of those early, get-to-know-the-folks meals, and we couldn’t have picked a better place. At any other restaurant we’d of run the risk of gulfs of silence; each of us engrossed in our own private plate, only occasionally exchanging pleasantries.

How’s the salmon? Oh, good. How’s the steak. Fine. Vegetables are over-cooked though.

Not at dim sum. Here, we shared the excitement of approaching carts together. Is that ginger chicken? Yes! Oh, and yu chee gow. Score! We sampled our favorites together and together we came just inches away from the big dim sum Do-We-Dare Challenge: Chicken feet.

In the months that followed, Fong Chong became our spot, and Chopper and I were such regulars we even had a favorite server who recognized us on sight and popped by our table soon after we were seated. “Two Tsingtao?” she’d ask after every greeting, to which we’d invariably say “of course,” because we could never resist a crisp Asian beer to follow up a good chomp of dim sum.

We had our favorite dishes – mine was the har gau, Chopper’s the siu mai, but every so often we’d venture out of our safety zone and try something we’d never tried before. Sometimes it was a one-shot deal, but more often than not we’d finish the meal exclaiming “I can’t believe we waited this long to try that one! We are idiots! Gah!”

(Yes, that last line should be read in a Napoleon Dynamite voice.)

Even so, we never quite got up the courage to face the chicken feet. That is, until a day we arrived and found Fong Chong so busy they were seating multiple groups of diners at their large, Lazy-Susan centered tables. Not that this hadn’t happened before; we’d shared tables many times — it was just that this time was different. We landed at a table with an absolutely charming and loquacious Chinese couple who’d just come into town from Astoria out on the coast. Fong Chong, they told us, was a necessary stop to their every Portland trip, and then they proceeded to recommend their favorite dishes, including — oh look, there they are on the next cart! — chicken feet.

How could we resist?

And y’know? Those crunchy collagen-filled feet, they aren’t half bad.

(I could go on, but remember, I’m terrible at waxing eloquent about flavors. See, I even admitted it. Ooh, the chicken toes, so crunchy yet tender in my mouth! They make me happy! They are happy feet! [giggle])

Actually, I’m lying. The chicken feet were just a little too fatty collagenesque strange for my liking. Chopper, on the other hand dug them so much I feared this would lead to a new culinary extremity trend. Pig’s feet, frog’s legs, lizard toes…

When Chopper started culinary school full time, we had to cut back on our visits to Fong Chong, sometimes going without dim sum for two to three months at a time. (Agony!) Meanwhile, we were working hard, saving what we could for our absurdly DIY wedding, which we’d foolishly planned for month number eight of Chopper’s schooling.

The day after the wedding (which I may write about sometime after our second anniversary, when I’ve fully recovered), we were so utterly dim sum deprived, we had to make the Fong Chong trip. Nothing else mattered. Presents? They could wait. Cleaning up the mess from our 11th hour wardrobe construction? Feh. What’s a living-room full of fabric scraps, anyway? A sign of creativity, that’s what!

So, off we went with visions of sesame balls and onion buns dancing in our heads.

As luck would have it, the new (and newly married) manager was working that morning, and she was so tickled to learn we’d made Fong Chong our choice for First Meal Out as a Married Couple, she knocked the price of the food right off our ticket. All we owed for was beer and tip — and a good thing too because oh did we pig out that day!

Now, you might think that my ode to Fong Chong will end on a melancholy note. That things have changed or that we’ve moved on to a new favorite spot. Not a chance. Even after our longest dry spell — a gap of nearly half a year without a Fong Chong visit — our return was just like old times. Last December, halfway down I-5, driving late at night after catching the 10:15 ferry (Chopper having hightailed it from pastry station to ferry line), the urge kicked in.

“You realize what we need to do tomorrow,” I said.

Chopper glanced at me from the driver’s seat to check my expression. He saw my smile and returned it.

“I mean, we’re getting into town at what, 2 a.m. at the earliest,” I said. “We can get ourselves out of bed by 10:30, and…”

“Fong Chong,” Chopper said.

“Fong Chong,” I echoed. I was grinning from ear to ear now in the dark car; the anticipation of har gau, hot chili oil, lotus leaf rice… it was almost too much to bear.

We were there within 45 minutes of waking the next morning. And there, first at our table, was our favorite server.

“Two Tsingtao?” she asked.

“Yes, yes, oh YES!” we answered.


Fong Chong
301 NW 4TH Ave
Portland, OR 97209-3882
(503) 228-6868

Fri-Sat 10:30am-10pm
Sun-Thu 10:30am-9pm

Best time to go: Fong Chong opens for business at 10:30, but they don’t really get rolling till a little after 11. Show up between 11 and 11:30, before the line kicks in, and you’ll be there when the carts first hit the floor with goodies fresh from the steamers.

On the table: The hot chili oil (that fire orange liquid in a jar) is a must. Pour it on your plate. Lots of it. Don’t be shy.

Thirst quenching: We love our Tsingtao and think you should too, but if you’re not in a beer mood, don’t worry, the house tea that comes with every meal is a light jasmine blend that tastes great even if you’ve been sitting at the table for an hour letting the tea pot go cold.

What is on those carts, anyway? You might not be able to understand everything the servers say, but here’s a tip: Just try it anyway. You can hardly ever go wrong, and at just two to three bucks a serving, the experimentation’s worth it. P.S. Chicken feet. Chopper insists on it.

Paper Chef #15: Mighty Aphrodite

Wednesday, February 15th, 2006

pear, freshly poached

I wanted to spend the weekend making cheese sandwiches. Trouble is, every time Chopper sees the ingredient list for Paper Chef, his eyes light up like a puppy in a butcher shop. And this time? Beets, lime, pears, and aphrodisiacs, and us a couple blogging together? Ahem. How could we resist?

So, we hit the books. Or rather, the Google, and discovered all sorts of nifty lists and references to dozens of aphrodisiac foods, from the obvious (caviar) to the unexpected (coriander).

Now, I have a personal favorite aphrodisiac. It’s a combination of dark chocolate and Barry White. Gets me every time. But Chopper had other plans (or maybe he’s saving the dark chocolate and Barry White for later). See, he’d recently received a $25 gift certificate to our local grocery, and now he’d found the perfect excuse for some sensuous splurging.

So, to completely knock us out of contention for Paper Chef’s Super Saver category, we picked up three lusty participants for our lusty trio:

Caviar (Okay, black lumpfish roe, close enough for our purposes. Ah, mystical fish eggs, symbol of fertility…)
Truffles (They’re musky. Need we say more?)
Snails (I’m told it has something to do with their shape. What? It’s suggestive?)


Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you eat oysters?
Antoninus: When I have them, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you eat snails?
Antoninus: No, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you consider the eating of oysters to be moral and the eating of snails to be immoral?
Antoninus: No, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Of course not. It is all a matter of taste, isn’t it?
Antoninus: Yes, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: And taste is not the same as appetite, and therefore not a question of morals.
Antoninus: It could be argued so, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: My robe, Antoninus. My taste includes both snails and oysters.

Sparticus, 1960, Lawrence Olivier as Marcus Licinius Crassius; Tony Curtis as Antonius

Ahem. So, where was I?

Oh, yes, we weren’t done yet. Chopper had other ingredients in mind for our Lusty Trio, and surprisingly, we found that several of them were also included on various lists of aphrodisiacs. Here are six more:

Vanilla (Its powerful scent evokes strong and sensuous emotions.)
White wine (In moderation, of course, or the hot date ends badly.)
Wasabi (Nature’s Cialis, rumor has it.)
Red chiles (Hot, hot, hot.)
Coriander (According to The Arabian Nights, a coriander concoction once saved a merchant from 40 years of infertility!)
Agave nectar (Not fermented agave, like tequila or pulque, but still…)


In Aztec times, pulque was the highly esteemed drink of the elders, priests and warriors, a nectar that according to myth oozed from the 400 breasts of the goddess Mayahuel.
–source: Sign on San Diego

Four hundred???

Okay, I think that should do it for aphrodisiacs. Time for some recipes.

a slice of red

Snails in beet cups with truffle butter

Ingredients

  • 1 very large red beet
  • Snails, as needed
  • Compound butter (see below), as needed
  • Red chiles
  • 2 tsp coriander seed

For compound butter

  • 1/4 lb European style butter
  • 1 tablespoon red bosc pear, minced
  • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
  • Zest of 1 baby lime, minced
  • 1 small black truffle, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

Take two tsp of butter and melt in a small sauté pan over low heat.
Add remaining ingredients and sweat over low heat for five minutes or until aroma is pungent. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Season to taste with salt.

When ingredients in pan are cool and remaining butter is soft, fold both together until thoroughly combined and roll into a log with parchment paper.

For beets

Fill a small pot with water, and add enough salt to make it taste briny. Then add a small handful of red chiles, and 2 teaspoons of coriander seed, and bring to a boil. Add the beet, skin on, to the boiling water and allow to come back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

Cook the beet until it is tender but not mushy, about 30-45 minutes. Remove it from the boil and place in a bath of ice water until its cool enough to handle. Then peel the skin off by hand and cut into thick slices.

Cut rounds out of the slices with whatever tool you can find; a biscuit cutter, ring mold, etc. With a Parisian scoop (a.k.a melonballer) hollow out the rounds, making them into little cups.

Place a shelled snail into each cup and add a thin (1/8 inch) slice of the compound butter on top.

Place all the prepared cups onto a sheet pan lined with parchment, and roast in a 350 F oven for 10 minutes.

Serve hot. Olympic Rings configuration optional.

Snails in beet cups with truffle butter

Salmon and beet mousse barquettes

For candied lime zest

  • Zest of 2 baby limes
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1/4 cup water

Combine water and sugar in a small pot and bring to a boil. When the mixture begins to get “frothy” add the zest strips.

Cook for 5 minutes, then strain. Place zest on a silpat, or parchment and into a 150 F oven and allow to dry.

For the mousse

  • 4 ounces smoked salmon
  • 2 ounces cooked red beet
  • 4 tablespoons tofutti cream cheese
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon wasabi powder
  • 5 large sprigs of fresh dill

Place all ingredients into a food processor and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

For barquettes

  • 2 cups AP flour
  • 1/2 cup shortening
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 bosc pear, peeled, cored, and pureed
  • 1/4 cup water

Biscuit method

Combine dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir together thoroughly.

Add butter and shortening, and “cut” into the dry ingredients with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.

Add the pureed pear and fold into the mixture, then add water as needed to bring the dough together.

Mold dough into a ball and wrap in plastic. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

When dough is properly chilled, roll portions into thin (1/8 inch) sheets and place in barquette molds, trimming away excess. Dock (poke holes in the bottom) as needed to keep the dough flat as it cooks.

Place molds in a 350 F oven until golden brown. Then remove and allow to cool.

Final assembly

Pipe finished mousse into cooled barquettes in whatever style you like. Garnish with a small dab of caviar (or in this case; black lumpfish roe) and candied lime zest.

Salmon and beet mousse barquettes

Poached pears with agave caramel sauce

Ingredients

  • 2 Bosc pears
  • 4 cups sweet white wine
  • 1/2 cup lime juice
  • 1/2 cup agave nectar
  • 2 vanilla beans
  • Beet powder for garnish

Poaching method:

Combine wine and lime juice in a two quart saucepan over low heat.

Split and scrape vanilla beans and add both the seeds and the hulls to the liquid.

When the liquid reached between 160 and 180 F peel the pears, leaving them whole, and place in the poaching liquid.

Cover the pan, and poach the pears for at least two hours, three would be better.

When pears are cooked through, remove from the liquid.

For sauce:

Ladle off 2/3 of a cup of the poaching liquid and add to another pan over medium-high heat.

Add the agave nectar and bring to a boil. Reduce until the mixture is thick, dark, and caramelized.

Plating:

Make six cuts along the length of the pear, being careful not to cut through the stem end. Push down onto a plate, giving a slight twist, allowing the pear to “fan out.” Spoon the sauce over top, and garnish with a vanilla bean hull, and a sprinkling of beet powder.

Poached pear with agave caramel sauce

Now, I should note that I neglected to include smoked salmon on my list of nine (nine!) aphrodisiacs, above, but whether documented or not, as far as I’m concerned, in my book the combo of smoked salmon and Peter Gabriel is right up there next to dark chocolate and Barry White. (Follow all that up with a glass of port and Alan Rickman, and I’m done.)

Oh, I could go on, but never mind that. Our Lusty Trio turned out quite delicious and so rich that just the smallest helping did me in for the evening. In fact, the both of us have been in recovery for three days, so it’s a wonder we’ve gotten any blogging done at all!

Tagged with:

Paper Chef #14: The Big Honkin’ Winners Post

Tuesday, January 24th, 2006

The Chaircat
A recent conversation at Casa Belly Timber:

Kitty Kaga: (positively dripping with disdain) Oh. So you’re back.

Platelicker: (bursting, as usual) Oooh! Kitty!

Kitty Kaga: I would have wished you gone forever, but there’s work to be done here, and I cannot do it alone. I suppose my captors completed the judging for Paper Chef?

Platelicker: Must! Chase! Kitty!

Kitty Kaga: Ahem. They were in Seattle almost a whole week, you know. They could have posted, or at least completed their judging notes.

Platelicker: Seattle has many dogs. Wheeee!

Kitty Kaga: Right. So, about the judging…

Platelicker: And yummy food and big hills and…

Kitty Kaga: They weren’t able to finish, were they?

Platelicker: If I tell you, can I chase you?

Kitty Kaga: If you tell me, after I am done eating, I shall let you lick up the scraps of food that fall from my dish to the floor.

Platelicker: Wheee! Free food! Okay, okay, so they didn’t finish, and they couldn’t post and — you’ll probably hear about that later cuz it all has to do with stuff like bowling and dancing, and meeting other food bloggers, and strange, yummy food they wouldn’t let me eat — and, well, they tried to think it all through, but they just got pooped, and then there was this whole planning for the future thing, and visiting relatives, and knee injuries and…

Kitty Kaga: Planning for the future thing?

Platelicker: You’ll hear about that later too. It has to do with words and jobs and more strange, yummy food they wouldn’t let me eat, and — Hey! Do I get to lick up your food scraps now?

Kitty Kaga: Silly furball. You always lick up the scraps of food that fall from my dish to the floor.

Platelicker: Oh. Right. (a befuddled pause) Oh! Guess what! I’m going to take climbing lessons!

Kitty Kaga: Wonderful. Now, go away.

Platelicker: I’m starting with chair backs and working my way up to counter tops and trees.

Kitty Kaga: (after a heavy sigh) How nice. Say, isn’t that a leftover pig ear out in the garden?

Platelicker: Pig ear!! Wheee!

(exit dog, kitchen left.)

Kitty Kaga: Well then, it appears I must complete my chairmenical duties and announce the winners for this month’s Paper Chef Competition. Oh, shut up. I know chairmenical isn’t a real word. Do I look like I care?

So… on with it.

This was, as can be deduced by the lateness of this post, a most arduous process. I have reason to believe my captors quibbled and quarreled over their decisions for days on end. (When they weren’t off bowling or shopping or planning their futures that is. Silly creatures.)

I have, since their return, obtained their copious notes, reviewed them, and am now prepared to post the official announcement.

First of all, a collection of whimsical and delicious Honorable Mention categories to whet your appetite for the grand finale:

Festival of Enticing Ingredients:

Honorable Mention, Quinoa Division: Kimberly at Music and Cats. for her Quinoa in Blueberry-Yog(h)urt Vinaigrette with Cashews and Three “Babies.” A lovely first outing with a new grain, with emphasis on quinoa as the center of her dish.

Honorable Mention, Yog(h)urt Division: Lyn at Lex Culinaria for her Roasted Baby Beet, Labanya and Quinoa Salad. Another handsome, architectural dish with a scrumptious layer of labanya in the middle.

Honorable Mention, Cashew Division: Lady X at Experiment in Writing. for her Cashew Praline Frozen Yogurt Pie. Mmm… praline. Need we say more?

Honorable Mention, Baby Division: The Culinary Bookworm at Weekly Dish for her Quinoa King Cake with Orange-Yogurt Cashew Filling Okay, so you wouldn’t want to eat that particular baby, but…brilliant!

Special “Maternity Ward” Honorable Mention for Best Multiple Babies: Katherine at ToastPoint, for her Baby Curry and Quinoa Fritters with Cashew Cream. Too much fun — remind us to never ever challenge her to a game of Scrabble!

Honorable Mention, Overall Use of Ingredients: MagicTofu at Slurp and Burp for his full day of Paper Chef inspired meals. We especially liked the resourceful shift from breakfast crepes to lunch crepes. Nicely done!

Fiesta of Thematic Excellence:

Honorable Mention, Healthy Division: Cookiecrumb at I’m Mad and I Eat for her Quinoa Tabbouleh D’Brickashaw. Simple, elegant, and with all those fresh herbs, who needs multivitamins?

Honorable Mention, Simplicity Division: Cyndi at Cookin’ with Cyndi for her Sweet Potato Quinoa Corn Bread. A comfort food classic with a Paper Chef twist.

Honorable Mention, Renewal Division: The Culinary Bookworm at Weekly Dish for her Quinoa King Cake with Orange-Yogurt Cashew Filling Celebrating a great city’s rebirth.

Fête of Culinary Goodness:

Oooh, Pretty — Honorable Mention for Extreme Culinary Beauty: Rachael at Fresh Approach Cooking for her Broiled Perch with Quinoa-Cashew Crust and Pinapple-Kumquat Salsa. Simply exquisite.

Yum Yum! — Honorable Mention for Immediate Desire for Culinary Consumption: Sylvie at Soul Fusion Kitchen, for her Baby Back Ribs with Quinoa and Cashews with Two Yogurt Sauces. It’s Chopper. He can’t help himself. He’s like a rib magnet.

Zoinks, Whaa? — Honorable Mention for Extraordinary Innovation: Brendon at Something in Season. for his Spinach Sushi with Quinoa and Cashews . Ingenious, offbeat, and with only eight ingredients!

Splort! — Honorable Mention for Fall-on-Floor Culinary Humor: MagicTofu at Slurp and Burp for his multigrain cashew nut loaf… in swaddling clothes. Hug it? Eat it? Hug it? Eat it? Hug it? Eat it?

And…. The grand finale….

Paper Chef’s Best of Show: For outstanding use of ingredients, food we’d order again and again, and a fine dose of both healthy scrumptiousness and culinary whimsy:


MagicTofu at Slurp and Burp!

Chopper was impressed with the day-long extravaganza and multiple usage of required ingredients. Mrs. D was especially fond of the lunch crepes which sounded not only super-healthy but like something that could easily become a lunchtime favorite. Kudos to MagicTofu for a fine Paper Chef performance!

Kitty Kaga

Well, there you have it. The results of my captors’ arduous quibbling.

Oh, wait! They appear to have attached an additional note to their abundantly annotated scoring page:

This was such a difficult decision; we’d be remiss in not mentioning three fellow entrants that make up our three-way-tie for Best of Show Runner Up: The Culinary Bookworm at Weekly Dish, Lyn and Lex Culinaria, and Kimberly at Music and Cats. All excellent and worthy choices as well. Also, a huge thanks to the entrants not mentioned above. Everyone did a fine job and it was quite tempting to award all twenty three participants with honorable mentions!

–Mrs D & Chopper Dave

(Meanwhile, Platelicker has returned to the room)

Platelicker: Mommy and Daddy are asleep! I want to play and they’re asleep!

Kitty Kaga: Oh. Back again?

Platelicker: Why are they asleep?

Kitty Kaga: I don’t suppose you know what the phrase “It’s been a long week” means, do you?

Platelicker: Play with me?

Kitty Kaga: Not a chance.

Platelicker: (pouting) They won’t be doing this Paper Chef thing again any time soon, will they?

Kitty Kaga: Not if they can help it. As much as I relish this donning of finery — and don’t you dare raid my wardrobe again! — I do possess great sympathy for their battle with this thorny task, and understand completely if they choose to run screaming from such competitions in the near future.

Platelicker: But, but… next month could be cream and salmon and tuna water and juicy mouse head month!

Kitty Kaga: Cream… Salmon… Juicy mouse head… Ahem. Well. My sympathies can be short-lived if the occasion warrants. You were saying?

Platelicker: Play with me?

Kitty Kaga: (with a flexing of claws) Don’t push your luck.

Platelicker on the porch

Paper Chef #14: The Big Honkin’ Brand Spankin’ New Round Up

Saturday, January 14th, 2006

The Chaircat
It’s round-up
time!

I don’t know whether to blame it on the ingredients, or on planetary alignments, or on our our own Paper Chef Gourmet Academy Chairman, Owen of Tomatilla! but we have a record twenty three entries for our Brand Spankin’ New Paper Chef #14.

Twenty Three!

(We hereby announce our retirement from food blogging and subsequent publication of Quinoa! It’s Not Just For Hippies Anymore!)

Ahem.

Needless to say, the judging (which isn’t done yet) is going to be a four-beer-at-the-pub challenge. Yes, we’re taking a page from last month’s Down Under crew and hitting our favorite ale house to sort out the winners. Look for our results sometime… um… soon.

Meantime, a couple quick notes before I launch into our round-up. With 23 entries to cover, I’m going to attempt to not make this The Post That Wouldn’t Die and be somewhat brief. (Cough — Oops, she says about six hours later) I encourage everyone to follow the links and check all our participants’ tasty dishes.

it's a baby!

When I tossed in that photo of baby food into our ingredients post I had no idea those little jars of flavored mush would be so useful! Several participants were — most wonderfully — weirder than we expected, and found nifty ways to Gerber up their entries. Other ingenious “baby” choices included sprouts, seeds, biscuits, and yes… an actual baby. (Read on. You’ll see.)

Another highlight of this month’s adventure: the number of entrants cooking with quinoa for the first time. Not everyone had complete success with it, but check out the comments on some entries and you’ll already see cooks sharing their tips and tricks and, in at least a few cases, planning to add quinoa to their regular repertoire. It’s a great grain (at least we think so!) and it’s always exciting to read about culinary discoveries.

The yog(H)urt (okay, okay already, I’ll ditch the H!) and cashews sent many entrants in the direction of Indian cuisine. Cumin, coriander, and curry powder abounded (yum!), but we found some complete surprises in the mix as well, and for all of those (and for the baby)… well, read on!

Paper Chef #14: The Big Honkin’ Brand Spankin’ New Round Up

Cyndi Cooks

First up is California blogger Cyndi from Cookin’ with Cyndi and her Sweet Potato Quinoa Corn Bread. Cyndi’s entry came to us first and, yes, she uses baby food. (Right from the beginning, I knew we were in for surprises in the “baby” department.) Cyndi grinds her quinoa in a coffee grinder to make meal, and, to give the corn bread an extra healthy touch, she uses Splenda Brown Sugar Blend instead of sugar. The results? Husband asks for seconds and the bread is declared a success!

Slurp and Burp

Another bread baker this month was Magictofu from Ottowa’s Slurp and Burp, who provides us with a full day’s menu, including a most adorable baby multigrain loaf in swaddling clothes (nope, that’s not the real baby). Ever cheeky with his entries, Magictofu declares the need to avoid prions by not baking actual baby, and instead launches into an impressive menu that includes French Canadian Quinoa Crepe with Cashew Butter and Maple Syrup for breakfast, Quinoa Stuffed Crepes with Sprout Salad for lunch, and Lamb Extravaganza for dinner. Magictofu also takes an alternate route to boiling the quinoa: dumping it raw in hot oil till it puffs. The result: a tasty boost to quinoa’s nutty flavor.

Lex Culinaria

Also from Canada: Lyn from Lex Culinaria and her elegant Roasted Baby Beet, Labanya and Quinoa Salad. Lyn tells us she stepped out of her “comfort zone” for this one, tackling quinoa for the first time and combining it in layers with baby beets and a luscious favorite of hers: Labanya. Labanya is a Middle Eastern soft cheese that’s made from suspending yogurt in cheesecloth so all the excess liquid drains away. It’s a fascinating process, and Lyn’s skillful use of yogurt for this Paper Chef produces beautiful results.

Kalyn's Kitchen

A salad of a different style comes from Kalyn of Kalyn’s Kitchen, based in Salt Lake City, Utah. Regular readers of Kalyn’s blog know she’s a master of low carb recipes, but for this one, she cheats just a teensy bit, producing a Curried Cashew Chicken Salad with Quinoa and Baby Peas, that (in Kalyn’s words) is “something slightly resembling a low carb dish” owing to the dominance of tasty low carb ingredients like chicken, celery, cashews, and green onions. Mmmm, protein!

Noshes Thoughts and Reves

Another chicken dish comes from Lady Amalthea of Noshes, Thoughts & Reves! in New York City. Her Yogurt-Marinated Chicken Stir-Fry with Cashews, over Quinoa is an impressive bit of fusion, combining techniques and ingredients from China, India, and Mexico –and possibly Italy too, if you count the extra-dry Vermouth! She uses one of our personal favorite babies — baby Bok Choy — and the quinoa makes for a nice stir-fry bed, replacing the usual rice.

Sould Fusion Kitchen

Jumping across the U.S. from New York to L.A., we’ve got Sylvie from Soul Fusion Kitchen, who not only resists the taunts of our ingredients to go vegetarian, she embraces her inner-carnivore with a nice heaping plate of Baby Back Ribs with Quinoa and Cashews with Two Yogurt Sauces. It sounds almost All-American, save for that tasty Curry, Cilantro and Garlic flavored yogurt sauce. Sylvie is also one of several entrants to toast her quinoa as well as cook it, bringing out the grain’s flavor. Combine that, the yogurt, and those ribs, and Chopper’s still drooling.

Fresh Approach Cooking

We’re still in California, and we’ve got Rachael from Fresh Approach Cooking who provides us with our solo seafood entry for this month (outside of our N.E.E. non-entry entry salmon): Broiled Perch with Quinoa-Cashew Crust and Pinapple-Kumquat Salsa. Rachael contemplates pandering to us (with penguins and spraypaint??), but no need, her plating is exquisite, and the fish, with yogurt under the crust to keep it tender, sounds melt-in-your-mouth divine. Rachael bends the rules just a wee bit with her “wee” instead of “baby” kumquats, but we’ll forgive her!

Something in Season

Another member of this month’s California contingent is Brendon from Something in Season. When I saw “Sushi” in his entry title, I expected a second serving of fish, but Brendon surprises us with a unique, minamalist approach, setting a goal for himself to use as few ingredients outside the chosen four as possible. His Spinach Sushi with Quinoa and Cashews uses exactly eight ingredients, and that’s including salt and water! Another bit of ingenuity — ground cashews in the quinoa to turn “fluffy” into “sticky.” A perfect substitute for sticky rice.

Erin's Kitchen

Still in California (and still resisting hippie food!) is Erin from Erin’s Kitchen with her offering: Red Quinoa with Curried Yogurt, Cashews, and Baby Apples. (Still no actual babies yet — hang on…) Erin uses Inca Red quinoa in her dish — a heirloom variety known as Pasankalla. (A quick google search tells me there are five basic categories of quinoa but thousands of varietes.) With baby apples, red bell pepper, green onions and a healthy dash of lime to prevent the apples from browning, the end result is a pleasingly colorful dish that would be perfect for a picnic.

The Laughing Gastronome

Now we head down to Wellington, New Zealand for minimalism of another sort. Emma of the The Laughing Gastronome gives herself a ten dollar challenge for this event and comes up with a tasty Indian dish: Baby Biryani. Emma is another quinoa first-timer, and gets great results with her yogurt-marinated chicken dish. And the babies? Black cumin seeds, because if microgreens and sprouts are babies, then seeds, being “A ripened plant ovule containing an embryo” are most definitely babies!

Music and Cats

A second seed-baby (pomegranate this time) makes an appearance in Kimberly’s Quinoa in Blueberry-Yog(h)urt Vinaigrette with Cashews and Three “Babies” at her Seattle, Washington blog, Music and Cats. Kimberly’s an architect by day and her attention to design shows in this elegant dish. She’s not cooked quinoa before, and so embarks first on a simple rinse, boil, and steam to experience the grain on its own before playing with flavors. For her other two babies, Kimberly chooses baby citrus (satsumas or clementines), and baby spinach. The result: a light dish with an emphasis on the flavor and texture of the quinoa.

Taste Everything Once

Jumping east of the Cascade range, but sticking to our home state of Washington, we’ve got Jennifer of Taste Everything Once and her Quinoa-Cashew Crusted Lamb over Baby Greens with Yogurt Dressing. This meal looks refreshing and meaty all at once and is a breeze to put together: quinoa and cashew crust for the lamb in the food processor and a complementary yogurt dressing with shredded cucumber and garlic powder. Add tasty greens and salad veggies and it’s dinner time. So simple and super healthy!

ToastPoint

Now we’re off to the other Washington — DC this time — and more lamb! Katherine of ToastPoint, in a witty, baby-laden entry, brings us Baby Curry and Quinoa Fritters with Cashew Cream. The babies? Baby sheep, baby spinach, butternut squash baby food, baby bananas, baby chickens (okay, eggs) and (“double word score!”) Yobaby Yogurt. And though her cashew cream doesn’t contain any babies, it sounds extremely good. Now, where’s my blender?

Chopsticks

More multiple babies (but no actual babies just yet) abound at Kitchen Crazy Daffy’s Chopsticks blog, where Daffy whips up two treats: Mustard ‘Quinoa’ Salad and Cinnamon ‘Quinoa’ Pudding with Cashew Cookies and Roasted Grapes. Why the quinoa quotes? Turns out Daffy, away from her usual UK haunt, has a beast of a time trying to track down the grain at the local Tesco, and ends up with bulgur wheat and pearl barley as most excellent substitutes. Her babies? Spinach, plum tomatoes, and — what fun — baby biscuits!

The Cook's Cottage

In India, apparently quinoa is also quite hard (if not impossible) to find, so Deccanheffalump from The Cook’s Cottage lucks out when her good friend Uma provides some for her Feisty Quinoa Salad. Deccanheffalump, finding this event a great excuse to expand her salad repertoire, creates a lovely, healthy dish with baby corn, spring onions, dates, apples, and beautiful golden raisins sprinkled on top. For her dressing, she employs the same hanging trick as Lex Culinaria, and blends her thickened yogurt with salt, pepper, and freshly chopped garlic.

No Sauce Thanks!

Now we travel south east across the Indian Ocean to Australia, where Paul from No Sauce Thanks! shows off his Quinoa, Baby Chantenay Carrot, Cashew Pilaf with Pan fried Turkey chops and Cranberry Apple Relish in the very first post for his brand new blog. He doesn’t even have an intro post up yet! (And we thought we were jumping into it!) Maybe it’s the turkey and cranberries, but this takes us right back into winter comfort food after our previous entrant’s spring salad. Only twist is — it’s the southern hemisphere and the carrots are fresh from the garden!

An Electronic Restaurant

Still in Australia but definitely switching seasonal influences, we’ve got Noodle Cook from An Electronic Restaurant who defies computer problems and comes up with the niftiest plate of heart-shaped ice-creams we’ve ever seen. There’s Cranberry Cashew Yoghurt Ice-Cream, Wattleseed Cashew Yoghurt Ice-Cream, Banana Macadamia Yoghurt Ice-Cream, Caramel Cashew Ice-Cream with White Truffle Oil, and Salted Macadamia Ice-Cream. Again — Ice creams? With these ingredients? Using baby food? Just go take a look, and take notes for Valentine’s Day!

Experiment in Writing

Another frozen entry (would you believe we’ve got two?), is from Lady X’s Experiment in Writing. Her entry? A Cashew Praline Frozen Yogurt Pie. The quinoa flour lends some unexpected protein to the dessert world — and it makes for a surprisingly nutty, tasty crust. Now, Lady X tells us she didn’t include a “baby” in this recipe and so — in a last-minute save — she provides us with an adorable photo of her younger self dining on baby food (no, that’s not the real baby yet!). But, remember, with our stretchy rules, eggs are baby chickens, so her frozen pie passes the test. (Though we still love the photo.)

Jonski Blogski

Another last-minute save comes from Jonski Blogski in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where husband spies the serving bowl, suggests the addition of yogurt (completely unaware this is a Paper Chef dish!), and Tricia snags the appropriate container out of the fridge. Tricia’s Three Babies Quinoa with Cashews and Yog(h)urt uses baby spinach, baby corn, and (raiding her pantry) a mysterious leftover jar of sweet potato baby food. She serves her dish with chicken, sautéed and seasoned heartily with green chile salt and (yum!) orange Muscat champagne vinegar.

I'm Mad and I Eat

Yet another jar of baby food makes an appearance in Cookiecrumb’s fun duo of entries from her Northern California blog, I’m Mad and I Eat. First up, complete with shredded coconut, allspice, stuffed animals, and the theme from Backdraft; Creamy Quinoa Pudding with Tropical Flavors. How to get tropical flavors? With a jar of tropical flavored baby food, of course. Next, not content to let her bulked up boatloads of cooked quinoa go to waste, Cookiecrumb engages in a bit of improvisational kitchen alchemy and produces Quinoa Tabbouleh D’Brickashaw. (You’ll have to follow the link to see what that’s all about!) Despite this being January, and Marin County being in the Northern Hemisphere, Cookiecrumb raids her patio garden and supplies her dish with home-grown baby mint, parsley, tomatoes and arugula.

Seriously Good

Cookiecrumb isn’t the only one to toss allspice into the mix, Kevin, from Seriously Good, based in Knoxville, Tennessee, uses allspice in his Quinoa Pilaf, and though he isn’t thrilled with the quinoa’s performance, he does, as you can see from the festive photo, try to put a happy face on his result. Kevin uses baby zucchini for his infant addition, and adds dried apricots as well, which — happy face or no — sounds pretty tasty to me!

A Veggie Venture

Next up, another pilaf, and another blog from the southern U.S. Also, another adorable baby picture! (But we’re not quite to the real baby just yet!) Alanna, from A Veggie Venture brings us a “definite keeper” with her Quinoa Pilaf with Raita. For the pilaf, she toasts the quinoa before boiling it, and includes fennel, carrot, and baby Portobello mushrooms. Raita is an Indian yogurt sauce, similar to tzatziki, and Alanna’s version is an easy blend of cashew butter, ginger, spices and lime juice. It sounds like the perfect complement to the nutty-buttery pilaf.

Weekly Dish

Our culinary traditions, such as they are in the Pacific Northwest, are nothing compared to those in the south, and we are delighted to discover a new one in the form of the Culinary Bookworm’s Quinoa King Cake with Orange-Yogurt Cashew Filling from her Baton Rouge blog, Weekly Dish. Turns out, Paper Chef Announcement Day coincided with the first day of Mardi Gras season, and what better way to embrace the theme of renewal than to bake a New Orleans King Cake. Traditionally, King Cake is a brioche with cream cheese or almond paste filling, but since this is Paper Chef, out goes the usual, and in comes quinoa flour, yogurt, and cashews. And the baby? Well, you’ll just have to check out the Culinary Bookworm’s post because we never would have dreamed it, but she really did bake a baby into her cake!


So, there it is! The Paper Chef #14 Round-up Extravaganza. Phew! I feel like I just spent the last week in a maternity ward.

I hope you all enjoyed the entries and our (oops, we weren’t very brief) recap, and for the final results — all I can say is check back soon! Meantime, we’re off to the ale house for our four-beer-at-the-pub judging challenge. Wish us luck!

Paper Chef #14: Quinoa Moai

Wednesday, January 11th, 2006

Babies? What were you people thinking?

Oh, wait. That was us.

Seriously, we’re utterly gobsmacked by the quality and quantity of Paper Chef entries this time, and it’s going to be a full day’s adventure going through them all, just for the round-up, never mind the judging! You people are all insane. And we mean that in a loving, join usssss, be one of ussss way.

In the meantime, we’ve got our own N.E.E. (Non-Entry-Entry) to post. Now, since we’re non-competitors, we’ve allowed ourselves a wee bit of laziness. We didn’t come up with brilliant takes on “baby” ingredients, nor were any actual babies baked into our dish. Instead, we simply snagged two of the ingredients we’d featured in our Paper Chef Announcement Baby Food Photo Set: Baby Food and Baby Ruth bars.

Ahem, make that baby bok choy, and baby Yukon gold potatoes.

Chopper, always one to find ways to envelop seafood in a crust, zipped to the market for a few salmon fillets and produced this tasty dinner treat: Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce.

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Ingredients

  • 1 lb salmon filet
  • 1 cup quinoa
  • 1/2 cup cashew butter
  • 5 baby Yukon gold potatos
  • 3 baby bok choy
  • 1 cup plain yogurt
  • 4 chipotles, de-stemmed
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 tablesppon fresh sage, minced
  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme
  • Kosher salt to taste
  • Ground black pepper to taste

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 375 F.
  2. Slice potatoes into rounds and toss in a mixing bowl with olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme. Lay out seasoned rounds on a parchment-lined sheet-pan and place in oven. Roast for 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown.
  3. While the potatoes are cooking, remove skin from the salmon filet and cut the filet into one inch strips across the grain season lightly with salt and pepper.
  4. Cook quinoa until tender in a one quart pot with 2 cups of salted water.
  5. Transfer quinoa to a mixing bowl and add cashew butter and sage; mix until combined and season with salt and pepper.
  6. Place a sauté pan over medium high heat and add enough olive oil to coat the bottom.
  7. When the oil begins to smoke, sear the salmon slivers on both sides for five seconds, then remove and allow to cool.
  8. When the salmon is cool enough to handle, wrap the slivers in the quinoa mixture, and arrange on another parchment-lined sheet-pan.
  9. Brush the crusted slivers with olive oil and place in the oven, cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the crust is brown and crispy.
  10. For Sauce

    Place yogurt in small sauce pan over medium heat. Add whole chipotles and paprika. When the yogurt begins to simmer, transfer to a blender and puree. Season with salt to taste, and strain through a fine sieve.

Some notes on our curious dish:

The crust was crumbly, very crumby, which meant we had a limited number of plating options. Salmon medallions were out of the question, as was slicing the fillet lengthwise and standing one half up against the other. So, after various ill-fated architectural endeavors, we opted for the simple, upright, halved fillet.

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Hmm… Something almost mythic about that stark statue of salmon. What is it?

Ah, yes. Now I see it:

The Easter Island edition

Now, the sauce. A word about the sauce. It’s hot. I mean really hot. Yosemite Sam biscuits-are-burnin’ hot. You might want to tone it down with more yog(H)urt. Or a pint of Ben & Jerry’s.

Meanwhile, we’re reviewing this month’s record number of Paper Chef entries and we promise a round-up tomorrow or Friday, with judging and awards to follow soon after. (And, let me tell you, this is not going to be easy! I mean… can I trade places with an Oscar voter? Please? Please?)

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Brand Spankin’ New Paper Chef #14 !

Friday, January 6th, 2006

angry kitty
Hey! Who’s been messing with my wardrobe?

oh noes, it's Poochie Kaga!
Ahhh… this black one looks especially good on me!

fight fight fight!
Mrrrrrrreooooow!! Phhhhhtht!

Kitty, victorious
There. Much better.

Yes, my fine feline friends, Kitty Kaga is back, just in time for Paper Chef #14!

It’s a brand new year, which means time for brand new ingredients and a brand new theme!

Right. The ingredients are new every month. I knew that.

So, without further ado…

Our first three ingredients, chosen at random from the nomination list:

1. Cashews
2. Quinoa
3. Yoghurt

And for our fourth, specially chosen ingredient, in honor of the brand new infant year….

(No, not BABIES, silly!)

Here, have a lookie:

baby corn baby bok choy
baby taters baby clams
Baby Ruth baby food

Got it yet?

That’s right. It’s Baby Food!

Er…

Or rather, it’s the baby variety of any older food, be it veggie, fruit, meat, or fish. Baby corn, baby bok choy, baby clams… the possibilities are endless!

Now, if you’re feeling a bit scary adventurous, we’ll also allow any food that’s got the word “baby” in the title! (Though, if you go for either of those last two in our photo set? You’re weirder than we are, got it? Weird.)

So… go healthy, go vegetarian if you like, go for simple elegance, and express the spirit of a brand new year’s renewal with your brand spankin’ new burblin’ baby ingredients!

Oh, and don’t forget to play!

Now, here, freely lifted from Tomatilla, are excerpts from Owen’s Paper Chef event guidelines:

As a reminder, here are the ‘rules and regulations,’ which I prefer to think of as something akin to the pirate code of Captain Jack Sparrow and thus ‘more like guidelines.’

For absolutely only the fun of it and for no other reason whatsoever, the Paper Chef challenges each and every one of you reading this to let loose your culinary imagination and make up a dish of your own. Loosely based on the ideas of the Iron Chef, fond TV favorite in the US and Japan, and on the British show Ready, Steady, Cook! (fond favorite in the UK), the Paper Chef is all about creativity and constraint, challenge and cooking.

About a week before the event opens, I post an ingredient list from previous events here at Tomatilla! Older ingredients fall off the list, as does anything that actually got used in an event. Those ingredients are ‘banned’ for a month just to prevent the choices being cream and chocolate and cream and chocolate and cream and chocolate and…you get the idea. Any reader … can nominate a new ingredient (one only please) and it can be anything within the bounds of good taste (both kinds). Three ingredients are chosen at random from the final list and the host (usually me but not always) picks one more ingredient that is topical or seasonal or that suits our whimsy. Then you get a weekend (Friday Noon to Monday Noon) to make up a recipe, cook it and post the recipe to your blog. … The previous month’s winner gets to be judge (and is ineligible that month) and gives out whatever kinds of awards they like.

I’ve had lots of questions about things like photographs. Photographs are NOT necessary to take part. Nor is having you own blog – I’ll be happy to post a recipe for you if you want. However, it is clear that having a nice photograph will help influence the judges – if they see it looking good it is a lot easier to imagine it tasting looking good…

It is also absolutely OK to substitute if you just cannot find an ingredient or if you or someone who will eat the dish has an allergy – just try to substitute with something close to the original to remain in the spirit of the occasion.

The times are always the first Friday of the month, Noon PST until the following Monday Noon PST. However we aren’t sticklers for timekeeping here – a little late and any excuse will do. A LOT late and you’ll have to have a really good and creative one to do with cats pushing bowls off counters or the like.

And now for our nitty gritty details:

Entries are due midday (PST) on Monday, January 9th. We’re pretty lax around here, so any time before mid-Monday evening will probably do, and even after that we’ll be forgiving, if, say, you managed to torch your kitchen while inventing Baked Baby Yukon Gold Alaska.

Send your entries to mrs_d AT belly-timber DOT com, and include your name, blog name, location, and a permalink to your entry. You can also post your entry information here on this comments thread. Also, I’d like to encourage everyone to add a “Paper Chef” technorati tag to the end of their post, thusly –

Tagged with: <a href=”http://technorati.com/tag/Paper Chef” rel=”tag”>Paper Chef</a>

– so it gives everyone an extra place to search for entries before we post the round-up.

Have fun, and once again, Kitty Kaga sez:

Allez Cuisine!

Play with your food

Thursday, January 5th, 2006

Infant Basghetti Explosion

Get your
Paper Chef
Ingredient Nominations

in now!

Since we here at Belly Timber believe that you should never refrain from playing with your food, we are delighted to be once again judging one of the food blogging community’s premiere excuses for massive foodplay: Paper Chef.

Wait a sec, you ask. Didn’t the great founder and Paper Chef guru, Owen of Tomatilla! declare this month’s theme to be simplicity, health, and renewal?

Well, yeah, but that doesn’t mean you can’t play too. Think of it like creating a stunning tic tac toe board, versus spending six weeks designing your own Neverwinter Nights module. Capiche?

After all, we here at Belly Timber are all about simplicity, health, and renewal.

Okay, I lied. That’s not even remotely true.

We are all about getting the clutter out of the kitchen, losing twenty pounds, and taking those damn overdue books back to the library.

Close enough, right?

So, if your New Year’s Resolutions are anything like ours, maybe that clean kitchen, that drive toward slimness, and another six weeks with the library’s copy of The Essential Dalai Lama will lead you straight down the path toward the perfect, simple, healthy (and playful) Paper Chef entry.

Nominations for ingredients are happening over at Tomatilla! and they’re only open till Friday mid-morning. After that, we pull three out of a hat and add a fourth of our own choosing. The photo accompanying this post, I should note, contains a huge hint relating to our secret fourth ingredient.

I should also note, that the photo is of Chopper’s niece and if we have anything to say about it, it will remain on the internet for all to see until she’s old enough to date.

Menu For Hope: Go 15k!

Thursday, December 22nd, 2005

menu for hope

December 24th,

12 am, PST.

Hey you!

Yes, you!

See that deadline up there? The one just 32 or so hours away? That’s the deadline for this year’s Menu For Hope campaign. So… whaddya waiting for?

The food blogging community’s lined up some seriously cool gifts (including our own Belly Timber Island Insanity Package) to make this far more than just your every day fundraiser, and don’t forget — all of the donations go to Unicef and are specifically earmarked for Kashmir earthquake relief. So… if you haven’t had a chance to check out the gifts and donate… go! (Cracks whip!)


unicef

Ah, I wish we could be around to watch the total climb up to $15,000 (and I think it will), but alas, we’re on the road for two days, hauling our exhausted asses down Interstate 5 to visit relatives in Portland, and then hauling our exhausted asses back up here — bright and early on the 25th so Chopper can cook dinner at the restaurant for silly people who want to eat out on Christmas Day.

Who are these silly people, anyway?

Well, never mind them.

Oh, and about these holidays…

I finally figured out what’s bugging me so much about being around food bloggers during the holiday season.

It’s the dairy products. They’re everywhere. Puddings, cream-filled pastries, cheeses, egg nogs… no, no, please, not egg nogs!! Aaaaaauughhhh. It’s enough to make me want to throw my hands over my ears and sing lalalalalalalala I can’t hear you till January.

Seriously, you’re all wonderful people, I’m sure, but you’re killing me with these dairy products.

(Yes, the Holiday Season is the worst time of year for the lactose intolerant. In the summer, we’ve always got sorbet. Now? We just stare longingly at platter after platter of scrumptious, untouchable food and drown our sorrows in mulled wine.)

Mmmmm…. mulled wine….

So, just ‘cuz, here’s a gratuitous food photo of sushi. Neener, neener.

homemade sushi

WHB: a frosty harvest

Saturday, December 17th, 2005

frost leaves

Second frost

Second frost? Not first frost?

Well, it’s like this. It’s midnight before first frost and I’m reading, and the plot thickens and then it thickens some more, and then more after that, and then it’s two thirty in the morning and Chopper asks what happens next, and I check the next chapter title and I tell him, and he says, Hagrid’s back! You have to keep reading!

So, blame the lack of first frost photos on J.K. Rowling and the fact that we’re well over a year behind on our Harry Potter reading. And the fact that one simply cannot stay up till 3:30 am and expect to wake before the frost melts.

So, second frost.

Also, rose hip harvesting time.

rose hips in the frost

Our meadow is thick with wild roses. Nootka roses, or rosa nutkana to be exact. They bloom delicate pink in May, and by fall their Christmas-red hips are everywhere. I spend October and November, impatient; chomping at the bit. I want to get out there and gather my bucket of vitamin C-laden nuggets, but I’ve got to wait. Rose hips are best after first frost when their sugars have concentrated, but if I wait too long, if we have a late first frost, many of the hips will have died; shriveled up into useless black lumps.

rose hips

Patience, patience… some will still be red. I’ll still have enough for a harvest.

So, when first frost hits, I leap out of bed and go a-gathering.

(Or I would have, if it hadn’t been for that damn Harry Potter book.)

Two days later we are thick with snow, so harvest is delayed again. Then, second frost. I leap out of bed (for real this time, only because we’d hit a slow spot and Chopper’d drifted off early during some bit about centaurs or celestial orbs or whatnot), and I head out to the meadow with camera and puppy.

First, I take photos, then I harvest.

frost thistle

snowberries in the frost

I soon discover that harvest is easier said than done. I need gloves. And boots. And thick, snag-proof pants, not these ancient sweats — which I notice, too late, are on backwards so they’re saggy in front like freaky old man trousers. And I need Tall Guy.

Tall Guy, alas, is in the kitchen cooking kippers and eggs and I’m most grateful he doesn’t ask me to photograph the finished product because if ever a dish fit the comfort food is butt-ugly bill, it would be Chopper’s kippers and eggs. The kippers, chunked up and tossed into the scramble, give the whole plate a rather sickly beige tint, reminiscent of a few of the more frightening entries in the My Blog Went up in Flames competition, or of something the cat’s hurked up.

They do still taste good, and they give me a nice little boost of energy for the harvest, if only I can drag Chopper out into the meadow. (Whaddya mean you’ve got other things to do?)

Oh, okay, the harvest can wait a few more days.

Meantime, I gather what I can reach, take a few more photos, and spend most of the time viewing the surroundings in a blur:

blurry puppy

The puppy, who loves the frost, cannot help but do figure eights around my every move. I’m surprised I don’t end the expedition on my ass.

I return to the warm house with just a small bag of rose hips. Not enough yet for tea, or jelly, or crumble pie, but we’ll be out there again shortly; as soon as we’ve got the time. Just hold on, I say as look out our window and spy the telltale red dots that pepper the meadow. Don’t shrivel up and turn black just yet. Stay tasty.

To harvest rose hips, you must cut them open when they are mostly dry, remove the hairy seeds from inside, and then set the rinds out to dry completely. Removal of the innards is a crucial step — and one that prevented some aboriginal coastal peoples from eating wild rose hips at all. Says Nancy J. Turner in her most excellent handbook, Food Plants of Coastal Peoples:

One Kwakwaka‘wakw woman, when asked if her people had eaten rose hips, laughed and said, “Oh no! They would give you an itchy bottom!”

Okay, so she says lots more interesting things than that, and I highly recommend the book for anyone interested in aboriginal food sources of the Pacific Northwest, but hey, when you’re harvesting rose hips with intent to consume them later, you remember the bit about being stuck with an itchy butt.

rose hip harvest

(Check out more Weekend Herb Blogging over at Kalyn’s Kitchen!)

Dude!

Thursday, December 15th, 2005

uncannily accurate portraits

Dude, check out the announcement thing for Paper Chef, dude.

Whaddya mean, dude?

I mean, dude, check it out.

No way.

Way.

I am so totally dreaming this. I’m going to wake up and find out I’m really twelve years old and I just got grounded for feeding foie gras to the dog.

Dude, those other entries totally kicked ass.

I know, dude.

Dude, make a speech.

No, you make a speech, dude.

Oh, wait. I got it. I’m going to talk about something else, something more important. It’ll be the heartwarming moment at the end of the show, you know, like when the kid turns to the camera and says, “but most of all today I learned that cuttlefish have feelings too, and if you chop their heads off to eat them, their tentacles will retaliate and drag you down to a watery grave.”

Dude, that is so heartwarming.

That was just an example, dude. Here’s my heartwarming moment: Hey. People. Go to this Menu for Hope site here, okay? And donate money to help all the kids and stuff who were injured and left homeless from the earthquake, because, dude, they need more help and not enough people are paying attention and you could win all sorts of cool prizes like our Island Insanity Gift Package. So like, donate a lot, okay?

Right on, dude.

Oh, and dude?

Yeah, dude?

We should tell them that there’s just one day left to nominate blogs for the food blog awards and that it would really rock if we got more nominations.

Dude, way to ruin your heartwarming moment with total selfishness.

Hey dude: A vote is free.

Good point, dude. So like donate. And vote.

Right on, dude.

Right on.

IMPORTANT Update: Pim’s most excellent menu of raffle items has been munched by Typepad, but will be back up soon. Bookmark her main page and check back for updates!

A Menu for Hope

Wednesday, December 14th, 2005


Our
fashionably
late
entry…

I’ll admit I hadn’t heard of A Menu for Hope until just this week. Last January, when food bloggers raised money for tsunami relief, Belly Timber was four months from birth; an item on our to-do list, constantly shoved below “pack for the island” and “get all the damn laundry done, for once.”

So, I was quite stoked to discover that we can still join in this year, even if we’re fashionably late.

What is this year’s A Menu for Hope? It’s the international food blogging community’s campaign to raise money for earthquake relief in Pakistan. October’s devastating earthquake in Kashmir registered 7.6 on the Richter scale and the death toll stands near 87,000 with another 80,000 injured and 3.3 million left homeless. And with winter coming on (and the potential for more disasters — a 6.7 quake hit the remote Kush region of neighboring Afghanistan just this morning — further relief is urgent.

So, we bring you A Menu for Hope II. Head on over to Chez Pim, where Pim, the gracious hostess and coordinator of this event has gathered together an impressive list of gifts from food bloggers around the world. A donation of as little as $5 puts you in the running for one of these gifts, and trust me, this isn’t just landing another travel mug from Public Radio; there’s some amazing stuff here.

All the proceeds go to Unicef through the Firstgiving website, and the fund will be earmarked for the victims of the Kashmir earthquake. In just two days, Menu for Hope’s raised over $5000, and we’ve got till December 23rd to donate. The generosity of this community is simply outstanding.


unicef

And meanwhile, what’s Belly Timber adding to the mix?

Well, because we’re a little stir crazy on this rock, and we can’t snag any hip, big city gifts for our prizewinner, we’d like to offer up…

Belly Timber’s Island Insanity Gift Package

The exact contents of the package will be a mystery (oh, come on, we all love surprises), but we can promise the following (insane island) treats:

pelidaba gifts

1. Culinary products from Pelindaba Lavender Farms. (Yes, people here are so strange, they have entire 20 acre farms devoted to a single herb.)

2. Jellies and sauces from our sister islands, Lopez and Orcas. (Now, how can you pass up a jar of Lopez Larry’s “soon to be famous”TM Smokey Chardonnay Mustard Sauce? Yes, that is a TM next to the phrase “soon to be famous.” We assume the trademark will be changed once he becomes famous.)

???

3. And behind door number three? Here’s where the fun begins. The rest of the care package will be (we promise) home made, and could resemble anything from culinary delights from our kitchen to craft projects, Belly Timber style. (And Mrs. D has been known to get pretty crafty, given a pair of scissors, a stack of hand painted rice paper, and a carton of bottle caps. Okay, maybe not so much with the bottle caps, but trust me, Mrs. D likes to play with crafts a lot more than she likes to talk about herself in third person!)

So, there you have it: Vague but adventurous, kind of like the average day on San Juan Island!

Now, to put your name in the hopper for our gift, or for any one of the fabulous gifts on this year’s Menu for Hope, just follow these simple rules:

1. Find the gift you would like on the menu.
2. Go to A Menu for Hope II donation page and donate $5 or whatever sum you can spare.
3. Use the comment section of your donation form to indicate which gift(s) you would like to have. Each $5 donation will give you one chance at winning the prize of your choice. (Yes, if you donate more than $5, you are allowed to specify more than one prize.)
4. That’s it!


unicef

Menu for Hope II ends on December 23rd. Winners will be announced at Chez Pim after January 1st, 2006.

Please join us in helping a region in desperate need.

Weekend (dead) Herb Blogging

Sunday, December 11th, 2005

Kalyn’s Weekend Herb Blogging is in its 10th week and so far, sad to say, I’ve been all good intentions and no posts.

I’ll think of an herb — like fennel a month or so ago when it was still all perky and feathery in the garden — and then I just run out of time to photograph it. Or, I decide I’ve nothing interesting to say about fennel other than yum, and ooh, the bronze kind sure is perty.

Sometimes, I’m gone over a weekend, and then I pay no attention to the blog at all (much to the obvious dismay of The Cat, ahem). But, this weekend? I’m at home while Chopper works extra long hours.

Yay! At long last I can do herb blogging! So, what’s still pretty in the garden?

Well, pretty much nothing.

Besides, all my garden herbs are so ordinary. Thyme, oregano, rosemary, sage. Yawn.

Wait a sec. I’ve got that cool Cuban oregano I brought up from Portland. Now where did I leave that pot?

cuban oregano

Uhhhh…. whoops.

Heavy sigh.

My first foray into Weekend Herb Blogging has morphed into How Mrs. D Completely Sucks at Caring for House Plants.

For example:

The one leaf left on the philodendron:
almost dead philodendron

Mrs. Haversham’s Jade plant:
mrs haversham's jade plant

This citronella repelled its last mosquito months ago:
dead citronella

Also, that truly hideous, frost-bitten Cuban oregano used to look like this:

cuban oregano

And I wrote about it back in April in the post Mrs. D. Eats a House Plant. (Which is much better than Mrs. D. Kills a House Plant.)

So, long story short, with profuse apologies to Kalyn, I’m joining Weekend Herb Blogging, but only to send people to my archives, wherein they’ll read about this nifty, lesser-known succulent herb, Cuban oregano.

Next time I promise I’ll find something new and tasty, and I won’t kill it.

Paper Chef Lucky 13: Oooh, Fishy, fishy, fishy, fish…

Monday, December 5th, 2005

Panko Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

I’m not sure what’s gotten into him, but Chopper’s been chomping at the Paper Chef bit extra hard for days. Usually, when the time grows nigh, he gets notions. “Whatever the ingredients are,” he says, days before they’re announced, “I’m gonna use _____.” And then he proceeds to name some exotic item in our pantry or our freezer that quite possibly won’t go with anything on the final Paper Chef ingredient list.

And so, on Friday afternoon, when we checked the list, it was no surprise that thoughts of the freezer item du jour fled out the window and instead we began the required pondering of item number four.

Ingredient 1: Rice
Ingredient 2: Carrots
Ingredient 3: Anchovies
Ingredient 4: Something from the other side of the world that helps make this dish a celebration for you.

Hmmm… Something from the other side of the world, we contemplate, conveniently forgetting the whole “celebration” bit because just finding something from the other side of the world around these parts can be quite the challenge.

Immediately, Chopper starts talking Asian food because, well, the ingredients rather scream Asian, but I interrupt and say, “hey, let’s figure out where exactly the other side of the world is. Who knows. It could be nowhere near Asia, geographically speaking.”

So, after several minutes of semi-fruitless longitude, latitude, and antipode googling, we pull out our trusty National Geographic Atlas of the World and do the math.

Ahah. Page 168, 48S, 57E give or take a few degrees, and there we are. In the middle of the Indian Ocean.

But wait! There’s land nearby! Maybe they’ve got a national cuisine!

Right. The nearest land to our antipode, as it happens, is a tiny little island called ÃŽle de l’Est, the (appropriately named) Eastern most member of the Crozet Islands.

Hey! They’re a French Colony — we can cook something French! Wait a sec. France still has colonies?

Well, an interesting thought, but probably not exactly what Owen, our illustrious Paper Chef host, had in mind. No, let’s check out the local flora and fauna… No trees, not much growing on the ground that looks edible… a few imported species that, for the most part, have vanished… Ah, here we go:

atipodean lunch

Whoa. Okay, okay, we’re not really going to cook penguin. They’re too cute and fluffy, and honestly where is one supposed to find penguin meat on this short notice?

(By the way when searching (unsuccessfully) for nearby penguin vendors, we happened upon a place in Seattle that sells kangaroo! Note for future reference…)

So then, no food from the antipode, sad to say.

We stare at the map a while longer.

“Well,” I offer, “it’s kinda close to Africa.”

(And no, we are not googling that scary place in the Midwest that sells lion meat.)

So, Chopper dives into a bit of quick spice research and comes up with tamarind, a tasty fruit native to tropical Africa. He jumps in the car, heads out to the store and… comes back empty-handed. Tamarind is not to be found on our island.

Back to the spice research.

Ahah! Fenugreek, indigenous to Northern Africa through the Mediterranean and into Asia, this herb is extremely common in African cuisine, so that could count, right? You know fenugreek was used by ancient Egyptians to embalm mummies? How cool is that?

Okay, that’s one… close to our antipode, though rather far to the north. So, we fudge a little.

Meanwhile, there’s that whole “celebration” thing we’ve forgotten about. We ponder a bit further, and unable to settle on a single ingredient number four, decide to celebrate the following cool, far-from-home items we’ve located on recent culinary expeditions, first to our local favorite shop The Gourmet’s Galley, and then to Uwajimaya in Seattle.

1) Szechwan peppercorns. I spotted a bag of these at Gourmet’s Galley a short while back and sent Chopper into paroxysms of joy. These babies aren’t easy to find. For a while, the FDA had a complete ban on their importation because they carried a citrus canker, but this past spring that ban was lifted after it was discovered that heating the peppercorns to 160F killed the canker bacteria. Now, they’re simply heated before importation. (And there was much rejoicing!)

2) From Uwajimaya, dried shitake mushrooms. Yeah, they’re not that hard to find — unless you live on an island, and then the come in tiny, “gourmet” packages that cost an arm and two kidneys. So, we got the nice big bag at Uwajimaya, and again, there was much rejoicing!

3) Last, because it’s on the list already, the piece de resistance for our festive dish: anchovies. Not anchovies in a tin, or anchovies in a jar, but dried anchovies from Japan. The ones that still look like cute little fishies, so much so that if you glued strings to them and hung them from the ceiling under a blue light you’d have quite a lovely little aquatic mobile (not to mention one hell of a great Christmas present for the cat). Yes, those anchovies, because there’s nothing that says Insane Belly Timber Paper Chef Entry quite like dried fish leaping out of shitake mushroom cap siu mai.

Fishy Siu Mai

Special Siu Mai and Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

Flavoring paste (for both recipes)

  • 1 large carrot, peeled and diced
  • 8 anchovy fillets
  • 2 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon fenugreek
  • 1/4 cup sesame oil

Toast spices and grind them with mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

Blanch carrot in boiling water until soft, then place all ingredients in a blender and puree.

Special Siu Mai

  • 3/4 pound pork spare rib meat
  • 6 whole water chestnuts, julienned
  • 2 tablespoon flavoring paste (see above)
  • 15 dried shitake mushroom caps
  • 15 dried anchovies

Cut sparerib meat into cubes and place into a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped.

Place meat and flavoring paste in a mixing bowl and gently kneed together with your hands and then refrigerate for at least eight hours.

Siu Mai in prep

After meat mixture is chilled, soak mushroom caps in enough water to cover for 30 minutes.

Remove the mushroom caps from water and squeeze out excess.

Take meat mixture and mold it into small balls. Fill the mushroom caps with meat and place a dried anchovy in each as garnish. Steam for 20 to 25 minutes.

Serve with steamed rice.

A plate of fishy Siu Mai

Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

  • 15 21/30 shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • Flour, egg, and panko for breading

For the sauce

  • 2 tablespoons peanut oil
  • 3 tablespoons Chinese hot bean paste
  • 2 tablespoons Flavoring Paste (see above)
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce

Panko shrimp in prep

Bread and fry shrimp in vegetable oil until golden brown.
Remove from oil, drain and set aside.

In a wok, heat peanut oil until smoking.
Add hot bean paste and flavoring paste
When the aroma becomes thick and ingredients begin to smoke, add fish sauce.
Add shrimp and toss until the shrimp are thoroughly covered with the sauce.

Serve with steamed rice.

Serving suggestion: Furikake for an extra fishy kick.

(Okay, we admit, the rice isn’t so much in the dishes as under the dishes, but we’ll just plead “dim sum” as an excuse and suggest that one does not ever eat dim sum without copious amounts of steamed rice.)

Leaping Siu Mai fish

Now, for this month’s Paper Chef, previous winner Noodle Cook (and yes this is, happily, all our fault!) has created categories! And there are prizes! (I now officially feel like a complete slacker.)

So, without further ado, here are Noodle’s categories and our self-nomination within each appropriate one.

Paper Chef Personality – creative, clever or witty writer. ::cough:: Um, penguin meat and fishie mobiles. Do you need to ask?

Paper Chef Super Saver – budget meals or crowd pleaser specialist. We’re probably not suited to this one because, frankly, I’m too lazy to do the math. I will say that the only items that cost more than a buck or two were the shrimp and the pork spare rib meat, and even all of that was pretty darned cheap. Hell, if dim sum’s not cheap, it’s not doing its job and should be sacked immediately.

Paper Chef Prestige – food styling, presentation or plating up expert. Styling? Hahahahahahahah. Sorry. Do leaping fishies count?

Paper Chef Nutrition Genie – magician for getting fussy diners to eat veggies, less salt, less fat. Usually, Chopper Dave and the phrase “eat veggies, less salt, less fat” do not belong in the same kitchen, but with Asian food he makes an exception. On the Chopper Health Scale, I’d give these dishes a solid 8.5.

Paper Chef Supreme – the champion for Paper Chef #13. Well, one would assume that if we’re here at all, we’re here for the big prize, eh?

So then, clear as mud.

But wait, there’s more! Didn’t Noodle say something about bonus points?

Oh crap! We forgot the festive atmosphere! Quick! Scramble for the camera and –didn’t Noodle Cook say something about — what was it — beer? Incense?

Ah, here we are:

Special Siu Mai, with beer
Hey, don’t bogart that siu mai, man.

So, how’d it all taste? Bonus versatility points to Chopper for inventing a distinctive flavoring paste that stood out in both recipes, even though one was pork and the other seafood, and one was mild and the other hot and spicy. The water chestnuts added a great texture to the sui mai and the fish didn’t so much add a fishy flavor but a perfect salty seasoning. The shrimp, despite being tossed in a sauce, remained crunchy, yet succulent. I was amazed at how well I could discern each individual ingredient in the mix for both dishes — even the fenugreek and the carrot, which I would have expected to be lost, were evident. All in all a splendid meal!

Teh Fotoz R Burninated

Friday, December 2nd, 2005

Honestly now, was there any chance we could resist this one?

I mean, we’ve already just graced our pages with the most unappetizing plate of mashed potatoes ever (and trust me, that was the prettiest food of the week), and our regular readers all know we have no qualms whatsoever about showing off our Messy Kitchen.

Bad food photos? We’re all over it.

When Rachael of Fresh Approach Cooking put out the call with her My Blog Went Up in Flames competition, I dove into our photo archives like Platelicker diving into the five-day-old dried chicken remains that fell behind The Cat’s dining counter. Okay, maybe not. Ick.

Anyway.

Now, I could tell long, agonizing stories of food photos gone horribly wrong, but instead I think I’ll just let the photos tell their story. A story (with brief, out-of-focus interludes) of what it’s like to be the photographer when someone else is doing the cooking…

For this delicious meal, we focus on…. furniture!

Hey, honey, could you move your hand? I’m trying to get a shot here.

Yes, this would be the ass end of the chicken…

Honey, your hand is in the way again!

I’ve no idea what this is.

Oh, that’s right. It went inside this rather attractive lasagna.

Ahem. Hand.

Ah, always nice to photograph the duck fat before it’s rendered for confit.

Honey, what part of move your hand before I take the picture did you not understand?

Well, apparently that was tasty.

Hey! I didn’t say move the food too!

Paper Chef #12: Round-Up & Results

Thursday, November 10th, 2005

No more hypotheticals, it’s round-up and judgment time!

First of all a huge thank you to Owen for allowing us to do the whole shebang: hosting, selecting, and judging. Oy, was it work! Fun, but work. (Next time remind me not to do this in the same week I’ve scheduled 10,000 words of writing and a trip to the mainland. Kerthunk, indeed!)

So, first things first, a reminder of our intriguing set of ingredients. We opted for the grab-em-out-of-a-hat method and came up with a threesome of basil, oranges, and fish sauce. To that, being ever devious (and just to see what amazing concoctions we’d get), we added lamb. This intriguing foursome took our participants on a culinary trip around the globe with influences from the Mediterranean to South East Asia to right here on our home turf of the Pacific Northwest.

In addition, we had two first-time participants, four pseudo-participants (not including our own non-entry entry), and a nifty collection of discoveries along the way. So, follow along as we check out this month’s Paper Chef extravaganza. (And don’t forget to drop by all of these great blogs to see what other goodies they’ve got to offer!)


First up, Shauna of Gluten Free Girl, just a short jaunt from here in Seattle, brings us a twosome of Lamb Shank Braised with Orange and Basil, and Shauna’s Seafood Soup. A one-time vegetarian, Shauna had a lamb epiphany with this post. She cooked it for the first time, and she’s going to cook it again and again! The soup — with Shauna’s creative, gluten-free substitution of fish fumet for fish sauce — sounds just delicious and brings a Northwest flair to this month’s Paper Chef with fresh Dungeness crab. Yum! Shauna’s post also celebrates her return to the kitchen after far too long of being laid up with a miserable foot injury. As Shauna says: “Oh goodness, of all the good meals I’ve eaten in the last few months, this was one of the best. It was made with joy, It tasted of joy.” Welcome back, girl!


Next, another full and tasty meal from the Bay area’s B’gina at Stalking the Waiter. B’gina, who is still sadly sans photos this month (curse you, evil technical difficulties!), takes us to the Mediterranean with her Pastitsio (Greek lasagna) inspired Greek Lamb Trainwreck with Orange, Basil, and Onion Salad with Feta and Poppyseed Style Dressing. B’gina says, “What actually gave me the idea for this dish was a Greek pork sausage flavored with orange zest.” (Ah, orange zest. I can’t express how cool it is to see so many participants discover the joys of orange zest!) The match of “Trainwreck” and Greek salad sounds quite good, and I particularly liked B’gina’s addition of fennel to both dishes.


Sticking with the Mediterranean/Middle Eastern influence, we’ve got first time participant and brand new food blogger Tanja from Tanja Dahl with Couscous with Kebabs and Sweet Orange and Chili Sauce. Tanja is a Swedish blogger now based in the UK and has been at this for less than a month, so stop by and give her a hearty food blogger welcome. She told us, “Being new to the food blogging scene I was a tad apprehensive to begin with but I couldn’t stop thinking of the ingredients so I had to give it a go.” Hurray for enticing ingredients! Her kebobs look juicy and succulent and we appreciate the simple presentation and the nifty cheese cups for the couscous. Also, who can resist a good spicy sauce? I’d go drizzle-happy with this one.

Now we jump from the UK to Down Under and to An Electronic Restaurant where 2-minute Noodle Cook (a name that has nothing to do with the astonishing amount of time and dedication to his craft) brings us Bush Tucker Lamb Parfait with Orange Basil Seed Champagne Jelly and Whitebait Tapanade Sauce. Noodle Cook, who regularly wows us with unique Australian-influenced dishes, chose an extra challenge this time: a budget of $5.00 AU for all four ingredients. Now, I had to go check the exchange rate on this and was floored to see that $5.00 AU came to only $3.66 US, so… damn! Several things about Noodle Cook’s entry impressed us, including the home charcuterie of the lamb parfait, the home-made fish sauce, and the ingenious substitution of basil seeds for basil. Says Noodle Cook about the results: “The champagne jelly not only looks sensational, but the licorice, citrus and honey aromas can only be described as WOW!” Sigh. When is someone going to invent smell-o-vision for the home computer, huh?


Also working on a low budget and impressing us with his attention to detail, was Magic Tofu from Kitchen Blog based in Ottawa, Canada. At first he was concerned about combining fish sauce with lamb, then said “faced with such dilemma, the best option available to me was a South-East Asian inspired curry dish. After all, citrus fruits, herbs and fish sauce are great flavoring accents to curries.” Ah, curries. A chef after our own hearts. MagicTofu didn’t just make a curry dish, he made his own curry paste, and (as we know all too well) that’s not easy. His presentation with Napa cabbage, orange segments, puffed wild rice, basil chiffonade, and chopped pistachios turned his Lamb Medallions with Orange Curry Sauce into one hell of a feast for the eyes — and, we imagine, for the stomach as well!


Next up, Stephen, from Stephen Cooks, straight across the continent in Maine, brings us a traditional lamb chop with quite a twist: Shiso-Marinated Lamb Chops with Orange Curry Gastrique. Stephen’s revelation for this Paper Chef? “Fish sauce! Wow! It’s like liquid anchovies!” Stephen had a challenge tracking down fresh basil and came up with a clever substitution — shiso, a Japanese version of the herb — at his local Asian market. Armed with that and a memory of roasted curry-citrus flavored cashews, he set to marinating, juicing, and reducing and produced what sounds like a scrumptious meal with the orange curry gastrique as a perfect complement to the lamb. Stephen served this one to hungry and appreciative guests and promises details about his tasty side dishes in upcoming posts. We’re looking forward to it!


Heading south to Baton Rouge, Louisiana, we’ve got the Culinary Bookworm of Weekly Dish, and her impressive spread of Lamb Stuffed Acorn Squash with Spicy Marmalade Vinaigrette and Buttermilk Basil Biscuits. Undaunted by the (rather evil) addition of a cuddly lamb photo to our Paper Chef announcement, the Culinary Bookworm snagged some tasty lamb sausage from her local vendor and assembled acorn squash stuffing that included orange, pesto, garlic, and Fontina cheese. The vinaigrette turned out so well she drizzled it over the whole plate, and as for the stuffed squash? “The lamb sausage filling really worked well with the squash: the eating experience involved mouthfuls of creamy, savory filling and sweet, buttery squash flesh, with hints of the sweet heat from the vinaigrette.”


Another first timer for Paper Chef is Katherine from ToastPoint, based in Washington DC, where people are so culinarily in tune with the universe they can go to bed and dream an entire menu. How cool is that? Katherine almost skipped this one, but then she woke up with a breakfast of Chilled Caramelized Oranges with Yogurt and Tangy, Spicy Lamb Sausages in her head and had to make it! Good thing too, because this looks mighty delicious. We are especially fond of her unique take on oranges for this entry, and… breakfast! It’s always great to see a surprise breakfast entry. Says Katherine of her tasty dish: “The aromatic basil complimented the super-sweet oranges, the tang of the fish sauce made the sausages sing.”


Last, but certainly not least, our Paper Chef Founder Owen of Tomatilla, brings us South-East Asian Lamb Braise with Orange-Basil Rice. Since Owen’s got (go figure) tons of tomatillas on hand, he’s putting them into every dish, and this one is no exception. He added tomatillas to a marinade of fish sauce, garlic, orange juice and chiles, and while the lamb was doing its tasty thing for an hour or so, he made a lovely, sweet basmati rice dish by substituting a cup of coconut milk for water. But for Owen, the real revelation was the crispy orange zest he created as a garnish. “The crispy orange zest was totally brilliant,” Owen says, “I will be trying it again with many other dishes.”

Now, of course no Belly-Timber version of Paper Chef would be complete without a nod to our brilliant comic relief team of pseudo-entries.

Yesterday we posted Cookiecrumb’s Hypothetical Imperial Rolls, which, though hypothetical (there I go with that word again) sound awfully good and definitely worth a try.

Adding to that, we’ve got Lady X over at Experiment in Writing whose craving for sweets outdid her desire to participate and prompted her to post a Not Paper Chef #12 entry of Pink Lemonade Cupcakes, “which uses none of the ingredients suggested and was totally about me eating something pink and sugary.”

And lastly, Rachael of Fresh Approach Cooking cracked me up with her pseudo-entry from the Paper Chef Announcement comment thread: “A salad of Lambs Ear Lettuce and Purple Thai Basil, with a Taramosalata and Dried Orange Peel dressing (Get it? Fish egg sauce. I’m so darned clever.)”

Hee.

the chaircat
And now for the moment we’ve been waiting for.

Whose cuisine reigns supreme?

(dramatic pause)

This month’s winner of Paper Chef is…

Noodle Cook of An Electronic Restaurant! Remember when we said knock our socks off? Well, consider us officially sockless. Noodle’s combo of Lamb Parfait and Orange Basil Seed Champagne Jelly is nothing short of stunning both visually and in the description of flavors — flavors so uniquely combined we can only begin to imagine how sublime this dish tastes. Well done!

We’d also like to give special nods of recognition to three other entries that especially impressed us: Magic Tofu at Kitchen Blog for adventuring into the labor-intensive land of homemade curry paste, Culinary Bookworm at Weekly Dish for great utilization of what Chopper likes to call “nature’s edible servingware,” and Katherine at ToastPoint for dreaming up a breakfast treat for the morning after all our tasty dinners.

Many thanks to everyone for participating. This was a fine group of entries and a challenge all around. Next month, I swear we’re making something simple. Really simple so we can sit on the sidelines and cheer all of our fellow crazy food bloggers on.

Good show, everyone!

Oh, and…

Kerthunk.

Mrs D & Chopper out.

Tagged with:

Mussaman Curry Lamb with Orange and Jasmine Rice

Thursday, November 10th, 2005

Mussaman Curry

Why we thought we’d have time and energy to actually make a Paper Chef dish (and write it up) along with our judgment and round-up duties is anyone’s guess, but here we are, and here’s our dish. Before I get into the details, let me just say that my admiration for food blog event hosts has gone through the roof this past week. Talk about ass-busting work. Wow.

So, about those four ingredients… The tricky thing with Paper Chef is that it’s global so it can’t ever be truly seasonal. The best we can ever hope for is to have a list of ingredients that anyone anywhere can approximate. And since we went random for three of them this time, we ran the risk of drawing one that was so seasonal, people on half the globe would be S.O.L. Even so, I will admit that I was surprised that some folks had trouble finding fresh basil (it’s easy to think “well, if I can get it here on this tiny island…”), but I’m pleased to see the fascinating substitutions folks came up with for their entries this month. We’ve been guilty of griping about ingredient accessibility in the past ourselves, and it wasn’t until serving as hosts that we came to realize how tough this whole process is.

And now, on with the dish. Since we’re hosting and not feeling compelled to do anything mind-bendingly creative, we opted for the first thing that sprung to mind, moments after selecting our list of basil, fish sauce, oranges, and lamb: a Thai curry dish.

For this particular dish, Chopper chose Mussaman (also called Massaman) curry. Mussaman is a Thai transliteration of “Muslim” and this curry originates with Muslim immigrants and the spices they brought to Southern Thailand many years ago. It’s a mild curry compared to most other Thai curries, and works well with lamb and with the subtle shifts of flavor brought on by the addition of orange and basil.

Mussaman Curry

Mussaman Curry Lamb with Orange and Jasmine Rice

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 lb lamb shoulder chops, bones removed, and sliced thin against the grain
  • 1 medium sized eggplant (or 3 Thai eggplants… they’re small…), cut into 3/4 inch cubes
  • 2 baby bok choy, quartered
  • 2 arge carrots, peeled and chopped
  • 3 tablespoons Mussaman Curry Paste
  • 20 whole basil leaves (Thai basil is preferred, but not required)
  • 1/4 pound cashews
  • 1 1/2 cup clear beef broth
  • 1 cup Satsuma orange juice (about six oranges worth of juice)
  • 3 tablespoon fish sauce

First things first. The curry paste. (This is very much like the Red Curry paste we posted about earlier, but if you look, you’ll note the changes)

Home made Thai Mussaman curry paste

  • 1 pound dried red chiles
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
  • 1/2 cup coriander seeds
  • 2 tablespoons cumin seeds
  • 12 husked cardamom pods
  • 12 whole cloves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 4 stalks lemongrass
  • 3 tablespoons minced galangal
  • 1 cup minced garlic
  • 2 cups minced shallots
  • 1 tablespoons shrimp paste
  • Beef stock or broth, as needed

Have a large mortar and pestle ready.

First, stem and seed the chiles. Then soak them for 20-30 minutes, or until they are hydrated enough to peel. Then remove the skins.

Put a small sauté pan on medium high heat, no oil. When the pan is hot, add the cinnamon stick and shake it around in the pan until you begin to detect its aroma. Then add the peppercorns and wait again for the aroma. Then add the coriander, repeat, and also with the cloves, cumin, and cardamom.

When all the spices are toasted, place them in the mortar and pestle, and allow them to cool.

While the spices are cooling, take the lemongrass and bash it with the flat side of your knife until it’s bruised and frayed. Then slice only the white parts and mince.

Pound spices into a powder, then add lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, and shrimp paste. Pound down to a thick paste, then add chiles.

Keep pounding, adding beef stock or broth until the paste has the desired consistency.

***

Now, toast the cashews in a 350 degree oven, until golden brown and fragrant.

While the nuts are toasting, add two tablespoons of peanut oil to a wok over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add carrots.

As carrots begin to caramelize, add lamb and brown.

When both lamb and carrots are sufficiently browned, remove from the wok and set aside.

Put wok back on the heat, and add 1 tablespoon of peanut oil, and 1 tablespoon of sesame oil.

When the oil begins to smoke again, add curry paste. Mash the paste into the oil, and allow it to fry for 2 minutes, then add the fish sauce.

Mix paste and fish sauce thoroughly, then add the bok choy, lamb, and carrots to the wok, and toss to cover with the mixture.

Add broth and orange juice and bring to a simmer.

Simmer for 15-20 minutes, checking the tenderness of the lamb periodically. When lamb is cooked to just under the desired tenderness, add the eggplant and nuts and continue to simmer until eggplant is tender, but not mushy.

Serve with Orange Jasmine Rice…

Orange Zest Rice

Orange Jasmine Rice

Ingredients

  • 2 cups jasmine rice
  • Zest from six Satsuma oranges

Place the ingredients in your handy-dandy rice cooker, and add enough water to cover the rice by 1/2 an inch.

Cook until rice cooker “pops”

Chopper says: Mmmm mmmm, I love Thai curry!

Mrs D. says: I think I died and went to Thai curry heaven. Seriously, this one rocked our little culinary world. We loved it so much, Chopper made it twice. (And I will force him to make it again, and again, and again…)

And now… stay tuned…. Paper Chef Round-Up coming right up!

Mussaman Curry

A Hypothetical Round Up (with Imperial Rolls!)

Wednesday, November 9th, 2005

Orange Zest Rice

KERTHUNK!

This is the sound our brains made after yesterday’s long, exhausting day on the mainland. A day that ended, I might add, with a flat tire on the ferry boat.

Yes, our brains are on the floor. Today, still deep in recovery mode, they are sad, tired brains. Brains too tired to write the Paper Chef Round-Up. We have, however, reviewed all the wonderful entries, and decisions are at hand… but, today, our poor brains lack the ambition to do justice to this grand competition. So, our tired brains beg forgiveness and ask for your return on Thursday, when all will be revealed.

(Uh, yup. That was a long-winded, sorry-ass way of saying, hey, we’re going to be a day late. Don’t kill us!)

In the meantime, since, hypothetically, this post should be a round-up, we offer instead — courtesy of the always entertaining Cookiecrumb of I’m Mad and I Eat — a Hypothetical Paper Chef entry.

Cookiecrumb sent this my way with the endearing title (below) and an equally endearing introduction of “I didn’t actually make this dish, but I sure as heck thought it up.”

Now, since (hypothetically) these rolls sound damn tasty, I figured what better way to beg forgiveness for our late round-up than to offer up this nifty (hypothetical) entry!

Okay, I’m done with the word hypothetical now. Really.

Hypothetical Imperial Rolls

by Cookiecrumb

Serves 2

  • 4 big rice paper wrappers
  • 1 lamb shank (of course, since you’re cooking lamb shanks, you should do as many as you want, and just use bits of one of them for this dish. And eat the others later. Braise the lamb shanks in a Dutch oven with liquids – tomato sauce and red wine, probably, possibly even a squirt of fish sauce – and flavor the mix with aromatics such as bay leaf, rosemary, garlic, and grated orange rind. Get ‘em cooked to the point of shreddy.)
    Some chiffonade basil. To taste. About a tablespoon, I’d guess.
    Mung bean thread noodles, cooked briefly in warm water and drained.
  • Grated carrot. Not a lot.
  • Dipping sauce: Fish sauce plus an equal portion of orange juice. And some diced fresh hot red pepper. (To taste, duh!)

OK: Pull apart lamb meat until you have about 1/2 cup of succulent shreds. Maybe even less.
Soak rice paper wrappers in warm water to soften. Blot dry.
Line wrappers with drained mung bean noodles, enough to – well, line them.
Spread meat shreds over the noodles.
Distribute carrot shreds over that.
Sprinkle with chiffonade basil leaves.

Roll up the rolls in such a way as to be sure they don’t fall apart in the hot oil.

Oh, did I mention hot oil?

Heat oil for frying in a pan. Guess for yourself how much oil you want to fry these babies in. Don’t go nuts. Fry the rolls, turning, until crisp and golden. Or crisp and brownen, depending.

Cut attractively at a slant, and put four halves on each plate.

Serve with that awesome dipping sauce.

Probably ought to place a fresh basil leaf on each plate for pretty.

“Brownen.” Snicker.

Many thanks to Cookiecrumb for this tasty (hypoyaddayadda) recipe!

Paper Chef…. ooh, the suspense is starving me!

Monday, November 7th, 2005

basil in curry

The delectable dishes are starting to come in and oh, are they making us hungry! So hungry in fact, that Chopper’s made a second batch of our non-entry entry for today’s lunch. That’s a sneak peek of it above, but we’re not giving away any details till we post the recipe just before round-up time.

And speaking of round-ups and time, we’re busy tomorrow, which means no round-up till later in the week, which means — you guessed it — there’s still time to enter! Quick! Race to the market before supper! Lamb, basil, oranges, and fish sauce. You know they go great with Monday Night Football, right?

Paper Chef #12: Kyou no teema….

Friday, November 4th, 2005

Ah, November. The month of late harvests, of turkeys and cranberry sauce, of battering storms and evenings snuggled by the fire, of blockbuster holiday movies and screaming Christmas commercials that inundate the airwaves all too soon, of four day weekends and raging political arguments at the Thanksgiving table, of cold mornings and days too short for decent dinnertime photography. Ah, November, how we wish… how we wish it was, well, June.

But, here it is, November. And Paper Chef time at that. And since we here at Belly Timber are particularly crabby about what this time of year does to the Northern Hemisphere, we have decided that this will be a Theme-Free Month. No pilgrim celebrations. No preemptive strikes on the game-day turkey gorge. And, absolutely no maize.

So, this month, we go random. Roll the dice, Chopper. What have we got?

1. Fish sauce
2. Basil
3. Oranges

And for the fourth ingredient of our own selection (no, Owen, it’s not quinoa)…

lamb

That’s right. Lamb. Cute little fuzzy lamb. Say it with me now: awwwwwww……. yum.

Now, here, freely lifted from Tomatilla, are excerpts from Owen’s Paper Chef event guidelines:

As a reminder, here are the ‘rules and regulations,’ which I prefer to think of as something akin to the pirate code of Captain Jack Sparrow and thus ‘more like guidelines.’

For absolutely only the fun of it and for no other reason whatsoever, the Paper Chef challenges each and every one of you reading this to let loose your culinary imagination and make up a dish of your own. Loosely based on the ideas of the Iron Chef, fond TV favorite in the US and Japan, and on the British show Ready, Steady, Cook! (fond favorite in the UK), the Paper Chef is all about creativity and constraint, challenge and cooking.

About a week before the event opens, I post an ingredient list from previous events here at Tomatilla! Older ingredients fall off the list, as does anything that actually got used in an event. Those ingredients are ‘banned’ for a month just to prevent the choices being cream and chocolate and cream and chocolate and cream and chocolate and…you get the idea. Any reader … can nominate a new ingredient (one only please) and it can be anything within the bounds of good taste (both kinds). Three ingredients are chosen at random from the final list and the host (usually me but not always) picks one more ingredient that is topical or seasonal or that suits our whimsy. Then you get a weekend (Friday Noon to Monday Noon) to make up a recipe, cook it and post the recipe to your blog. … The previous month’s winner gets to be judge (and is ineligible that month) and gives out whatever kinds of awards they like.

I’ve had lots of questions about things like photographs. Photographs are NOT necessary to take part. Nor is having you own blog – I’ll be happy to post a recipe for you if you want. However, it is clear that having a nice photograph will help influence the judges – if they see it looking good it is a lot easier to imagine it tasting looking good…

It is also absolutely OK to substitute if you just cannot find an ingredient or if you or someone who will eat the dish has an allergy – just try to substitute with something close to the original to remain in the spirit of the occasion.

The times are always the first Friday of the month, Noon PST until the following Monday Noon PST. However we aren’t sticklers for timekeeping here – a little late and any excuse will do. A LOT late and you’ll have to have a really good and creative one to do with cats pushing bowls off counters or the like.

And now for our nitty gritty details:

Entries are due midday (PST) on Monday, November 7th. We’re pretty lax around here, so any time before mid-Monday evening will probably do, and even after that we’ll be forgiving, if, say, you managed to torch your kitchen while inventing fish sauce brulee.

Send your entries to mrs_d AT belly-timber DOT com, and include your name, blog name, location, and a permalink to your entry. You can also post your entry information here on this comments thread. Also, I’d like to encourage everyone to add a “Paper Chef” technorati tag to the end of their post, thusly –

Tagged with: <a href=”http://technorati.com/tag/Paper Chef” rel=”tag”>Paper Chef</a>

– so it gives everyone an extra place to search for entries before we post the round-up.

As for judging, I regret to say that we will not be including any actresses, lower house members, baseball commentators, fortune tellers, or Rosanjin scholars on our panel. Photographers and songwriters, on the other hand, will play a key role in our virtual Tasting and Judgment.

So what are we looking for?

We love dishes that are original, inventive, and make use of the chosen ingredients in unexpected ways. We love dishes that sound like we’d want to gobble them up in a heartbeat. We appreciate traditional dishes as well, but we love them even more when they come with a twist. Dishes can be extraordinarily complicated or beautifully simple, but it’s the perceived flavor that will count the most. We hope to choose not just one winner, but runners up in additional categories. In short, knock our socks off.

Allez Cuisine!

Kitty Kaga reminds you…

Wednesday, November 2nd, 2005

The Chairman Just one more day for Paper Chef ingredient nominations! Post ‘em here if you’ve got ‘em.

Our current ingredient list:

Fresh coconut, something you get from a neighbour’s garden, walnuts, lavender, tofu, parsnips, sweetcorn, apples, red peppers, seaweed, rice, carrots, a root vegetable, basil, fish sauce, butternut squash, scallions, little fishes, quinoa, anchovies, olives, yoghurt, barley, fennel, Halloween candy, pumpkin (or any squash) seeds, fancy vinegar, and cranberries.

Remember, one nomination per person. Nominations close November 4th at 8am, PST. At noon (PST) Friday, November 4th, we’ll be posting the four selected ingredients: three chosen randomly from the nominated list, and a fourth, chosen by Chopper Dave and Mrs. D (who promise not to be too horribly devious in their selection).

Paper Chef participants have till noon on Monday to send in their entries (though creative excuses for lateness are acceptable). Check back on Friday for more details on entries, judging, and of course, for the secret ingredients!

Kitty Kaga Speaks! (WCB #21)

Saturday, October 29th, 2005

If my memory serves me right, this, the weekend of October 29th and 30th, holds a special dual significance. Not only do we don our festive attire and celebrate the birth of Kiri, beloved cat of Clare’s Eat Stuff, we also mark the launch of the internationally acclaimed Paper Chef Ingredient Nomination Week.

Ahhh, Paper Chef. It was nearly a year ago that one man’s fantasy became reality and this grand event of the food blogosphere came into being. From humble beginnings, Owen of Tomatilla has risen to the occasion time and time again to bring us this quintessential competition, where masterful chefs from all corners of the globe celebrate their creativity and their diversity in artistic dishes never tasted before. Each month, the secret ingredients are revealed, and each month, the illustrious winners are announced. Who can forget the majestic Cocoa-Pomegranate Roast Chicken with Eggplant Stuffing, the salacious Feta Soufflé with Walnuts, Dates and Feisty Greens, the mighty Po’ Boy?

So now, bloggers, show me the ingredients you so desire for the creation of your culinary masterpieces. Remember, you may only nominate once, so choose wisely. Let Paper Chef Ingredient Nomination Week begin!

Oh, and happy birthday, Kiri!

(Paper Chef ingredient nominations run today through Thursday. The four chosen ingredients will be posted Friday, November 4th at Noon, PST. Stay tuned for a complete list of nominated ingredients. Not eligible this time: duck, pears, ginger, & nut butter.)

(For more weekend cat blogging, visit Kiri’s Birthday Bash at Eat Stuff!)

Is my blog on a sugar high… the (belated) brainwave edition

Monday, October 24th, 2005

Submitted for your approval: The tale of a chef and his doppelganger, separated by a continent, each devoted to his own unique culinary path, yet driven together, inexplicably, time and again, by a mysterious force. Some might call it fate, some might dismiss it as the natural result of expert training and the synchronicities of our modern age. In a moment, witness the true compulsion that drives these two men to labor from the same page in that great cookbook we call life. Recognize it for what it is.
For it is a recipe whose ingredients can only be found… in the Twilight Zone.

Can I just say that we adore Stephen of Stephen Cooks. His recipes always look positively scrumptious and it’s clear that he enjoys mucking about in the kitchen as much as Chopper does (though I’d hazard a guess his kitchen is a lot cleaner). Over the past few months we’ve gotten a kick out of the fact that, on more than one occasion, Stephen and Chopper have been on the same wavelength. It’s as if they’re channeling each other; as if this curious culinary conduit stretches all the way from Maine to the Northern tip of Washington and then, from the aether — or perhaps from Saint Lawrence, the patron saint of chefs — they receive their instructions. Tonight, it will be bread pudding. Next week, a soup… Then, in October…

The IMBB/SHF combo chocolate soufflé!

orange_chocolate_souffle

Chocolate Orange Frozen Souffle

Now, I know what you’re thinking. You’re thinking: But this is Monday. Why are you posting this on Monday?

Well, it’s like this:

Me: Hey! Let’s make the chocolate soufflé on Friday!
Chopper’s Boss: Can you come in early on Friday to bake bread?
Me: Okay, how about Saturday? After the rummage sale?
Chopper: If there’s time. Oh wait, time for work!
Me: Hey, it’s Sunday, shouldn’t we be making that soufflé?
Chopper: Um, what time was that White Sox game again?

So, Chopper did eventually finish the soufflé, and the White Sox won, making it an even better evening, but by the time we had the puppy plated and had photos taken, we were just too dead dog tired to post.

Okay, I lied. I was too lazy. Chopper was tired. He did all the baking.

Which brings me to the next part of this post. Or rather, an apology. No recipe this time. I can tell you that Chopper took the Cointreau Iced Soufflé recipe on page 515 of Professional Baking by Wayne Gisslen (fourth edition) and adapted that. (How much adaptation, I really can’t tell you. You’ll have to pester him.) The sauce is from pulped orange, the topping is candied orange zest and dark chocolate shavings, and the base under the frozen soufflé is a squashed macaroon.

We gave the plated version to Mom who gobbled it up with gusto. Me, I just had a small tasty bite (to save my lactically incompetent stomach), and nibbled on the leftover candied orange zest.

Meanwhile, we will gaze in awe at Stephen’s half of the IMBB/SHF brainwave. Where Chopper’s is ice, his is fire. To be exact, a dark and fiery chocolate soufflé with espresso, brandy, and cayenne pepper. I think I just died and went to heaven.

I swear, one of these days we’re taking that cross country road trip and putting these two in the same kitchen. The results might just be astounding. Or, it could end up like that old Trek episode where if the guy from the matter universe meets his twin from the anti-matter universe, life as we know it will cease to exist. But hey, that would be pretty astounding too.


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Paper Chef #11: Just Ducky

Tuesday, October 11th, 2005

pears

Ah, fall, my third favorite season.

To salute the equinox with this month’s edition of Paper Chef, Stephen of Stephen Cooks offers us a tasty list of ingredients.

  • Duck
  • Ginger
  • Nut Butter
  • Pears

Now, as to the first ingredient, I was apprehensive at first (I even commented on Stephen’s blog about it), but as I lay in bed that night I remembered that I had a large amount of duck bones hiding in the back of my freezer. YES! I thought. Finally a chance to put them to use!

The next day I set about making those (usually discarded) portions of our favorite water fowl into a rich stock.

(Note: the following is a rather wordy version of most stock recipes you can find in nearly any cook book.)

I began by removing the bones from the freezer (duh… and yes I weighed them: almost 10 lbs) and placing them in a roasting pan. I recommend that you try to break some of the larger bones before roasting. Next, I preheated my oven to 375 F. When the oven came to heat, the bones were just thawed enough for my purposes. I placed the pan in the oven and roasted the bones to a beautiful golden brown. Then I dropped them in my 16 quart stock pot and added enough water to cover. I then placed the roasting pan on one of my two still-functioning burners, and caramelized one pound of chopped onion, 1/2 pound of chopped carrot, and 1/2 pound of chopped celery (also known as 2 lbs of mirepoix to the French). I deglazed the pan with red wine (does it really matter that it was Carlo Rossi “Burgundy”? I didn’t think so) and added that to the pot as well. After bringing the whole thing to a boil, I then added a tablespoon of black peppercorns, two tablespoons of dried thyme leaves, five medium sized bay leaves, and a small handful of Italian parsley. I then reduced it to a very, VERY low simmer (about four bubbles a second), and allowed it to cook overnight.

Duck’s Head Soup (stock): View at your own risk!

The next day I strained the amazingly flavorful brown liquid and put it back to the heat. After a number of hours on the stove reducing, I was able to extract more than 80% of the water from the stock, leaving an immensely flavorful glace (that’s pronounced “gloss”).

Now the next thing was to make a “nut butter.” I didn’t want to just buy something; that seemed to me to be a cop out. (Though I’m not disparaging anyone who did. I just knew that I had the tool — i.e. my food processor — to do something homemade.) So, I chose pistachios, because I LOVE them.

My pistachio butter goes as follows:

  • 1 cup unsalted pistachios
  • 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 1 tablespoon green crème de menthe

Instructions

Grind pistachios in the food processor to a sticky powder. Add confectioner’s sugar and process thoroughly. Add corn syrup, one tablespoon at a time, then the crème de menthe, processing after each addition.

Mmm, mmm.

At this point I began to think of the best way to bring the remaining chosen ingredients and my two variations, together. The first thing that came to mind was Italian, and how better to incorporate these ingredients Italian style than in ravioli with a sauce?

To that end, I grabbed about four ounces of gorgonzola cheese and a couple of “starcrimson” pears. After peeling and coring the pears, I brushed them with melted butter, and placed them in a 400 F oven, allowing them to come to a nice golden brown.

Then I pureed them and combined then with the cheese, which I crumbled by hand. After that, I added two teaspoons of the glace, thus making the perfect filling for Fall.

Next was the dough. I took a page from The Pasta Bible by Christian Teubner, Silvio Rizzi, and Tan Lee Leng, and, again turning to my trusty food processor — this time with its “dough blade” — I spun up pasta dough. Then we broke out our pasta roller.

This was the point when we (Mrs. D and I) thought: “How can we make this dish even more fancy?” When we spotted the oregano growing in our yard, the idea came. We took our pasta dough and rolled it out almost as thin as filo, thus allowing one to see things through it. We then made creative patterns on the dough with oregano leaves and folded the dough back on itself, sealing the leaves between the two layers. This created a most flavorful, and at the same time decorative, ravioli, which we filled heartily, and cut using a tartlet pan, meaning that they were BIG.

Before cooking, I felt the need to attend to a sauce. And, there were still two ingredients to use to make this Paper Chef worthy! So, I took a tablespoon of my pistachio butter and a tablespoon of grated ginger and placed them in a saucepan along with 2/3 of a cup of white wine, whisked them all together and allowed them to reduce. When the mixture was reduced by about 3/4 I took it off the heat. When it stopped bubbling I added 4 tablespoons of butter, and swirled it vigorously to create an emulsion. Then I strained it, leaving a wonderful green-tinted sauce that went perfectly with the raviolis and left the oregano decorations in the pasta easy to see.

And now I present:

Ravioli dell’autunno with Sliced Anna Kiwi

duck ravioli

After that I found that I still had large amounts of my ingredients left. So, I decided to plug on! The next thing I made was a soup. Rather than regale you with the process of this one, I’ll give you the recipe:

Duck Soup with Chicken, Pistachio Ginger Flavor

  • 2 quarts water
  • 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons duck glace
  • 2/3 cup red quinoa
  • 2 medium sized onions, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, sliced VERY thin
  • 2 teaspoons pistachio butter
  • 1 pound cooked chicken meat
  • 1 whole roasted pear

Method

  1. Dissolve duck glace and pistachio butter in the water and bring to a simmer.
  2. In a separate pan, sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger until golden brown, and add to the broth.
  3. Bring broth back to a simmer and add quinoa.
  4. When quinoa is fully cooked, add chicken meat (make sure to break it into small pieces).
  5. Serve, garnish with slices of roasted pear and a dab of pistachio butter.

duck soup

After the soup, I STILL had some of the ingredients left and another thought jumped to mind: Risotto!!

Here’s another recipe for you…

Nutty* Duck risotto with Ginger and Caramelized Pear

(*because Daffy is trademarked)

  • 2 cups arborio rice
  • 1 quart water
  • 2 tablespoons duck glace (and 1 tsp per serving as garnish)
  • 2 teaspoons pistachio butter
  • 1 tablespoon grated ginger
  • 1 starcrimson pear
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 ounces parmigiano reggiano cheese

Method

  1. Dissolve duck glace and pistachio butter in the water, and bring to a simmer.
  2. Peel and core the pear, and in a 400 F oven, caramelize.
  3. Melt butter in a saucepan and add rice and ginger. Stir until all of the rice is coated.
  4. Add liquid to the rice one ladle at a time, stirring constantly between additions to make sure the liquid is absorbed each time.
  5. When all the liquid has been added and absorbed, add cheese and stir until it is melted.
  6. Serve, garnishing with a half teaspoon of duck glace, allowing it to melt on top. Then add a fan of caramelized pear slices.

duck risotto

Phew! That was fun! Good ingredients. What’s next? Bring it on!

–Chopper Dave

EoMEoTE #11: Huevos Rancheros

Monday, October 10th, 2005

His name is Chopper, he cooks a breakfast
With yellow over-easy eggs, it looks so good the puppy begs.
He adds chorizo, and a tomato
For this September Eggs on Toast, a little hot sauce is the most.
He tosses cheese with flair. This dish is debonaire!
But he cuts the toast and goes for tortillas
So now is this fair?

When it’s Huevos, Huevos Rancheros!
You can bet it’s worth mucho dineros!
It’s Chopper’s Huevos, Huevos Rancheros
Mexican dishes are always delicious,
When there’s huevos….
Serve me some eggs…

I, um, really apologize for that. It came to me in the shower, and
I. Just. Couldn’t. Stop.

(For more eggy hits from the 70s, check in with Dispensing Happiness for September’s EoMEoTE round up!)

IMBB #19: I can’t believe we ate vegan!

Sunday, September 25th, 2005

Salad days

Sam, our lovely host from Becks and Posh has presented us with quite a quandary for IMBB #19. Vegan, she tells us. Specifically, I Can’t Believe I Ate Vegan. As in, a meal suitable for trickery.

Ah, vegan. Where do we begin?

Granted, though Chopper and I have, on occasion, accidentally eaten vegan, it’s just not something we would want to do on a regular basis. We like edible animals far too much. And no honey? What’s up with that?

Now, don’t get me wrong, we eat tofu and attend peace marches with the best of ‘em, and hell, I’ll even say thank you and mean it if someone calls me a socialist, but we are not about to say goodbye to fresh fish or eggs or bacon or … Augh! How do you vegans do it????

Ahem. Well.

Anyway, for this month’s all-vegan IMBB, since we have no one to trick into eating vegan but ourselves, we decided that the best route was to throw the stereotypes to the wind, scream a big NO THANK YOU to sprouts, and ask the question “what if vegan CEOs controlled the fast food industry?”

We think the results would be something like this:

Direct from Veganville USA:

holy crap it's Vegan Fast Food!

Burger, fries and a shake!

Chopper sez:
All I did was find a set of nine grain hamburger buns, making sure to look at the ingredients and note the lack of animal products, then I gave them a nice golden brown toast. Then I took an average slab of tempeh and split it down its length. After that was done I coated the “patties” in olive oil, then rolled them in a combination of Chopper’s blackening spice and panko and immediately dropped them in 1/4 inch of Crisco and fried them to a nice, crispy brown. After that, I cut some extra firm tofu and blanched carrots into battonets (god I love French terms for classical cuts), rolled them in corn meal and fried them in the same Crisco until nice and crispy. For the shake I simply took a half a pint of soy ice cream and the same amount of rice milk, added 1/4 of a pound of frozen blueberries, pureed it up, and put it in a glass. And, there you have it: VEGAN FAST FOOD!

Mmm Mmmm Tofu!

Now, I do have to insert the caveat that we didn’t check every single syllable ingredient against a strict vegan rule book, but we did our best at eliminating all obvious animal products. I mean, if Crisco is made from animals, that’s news to us.

Besides, the important thing is, this food tasted good. I mean GOOD good. As in wow, that was a great burger, and the shake rocked my world. (I said to Chopper after two sips: why the heck didn’t we figure this one out at the beginning of the summer?) The tofu fries were a little bland without ketchup, but hey, add some salt and look out Micky Ds!

So, anyone up for franchising?

Veganville USA

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SHF #12: A Custard for all Seasons

Friday, September 16th, 2005

Bread pudding

I have custard issues. It’s not that I dislike it horribly (though it can, on occasion develop a bit of a skin that screams I am bad! I defy you to eat me and not get a tummy ache!), it’s that it brings back memories. Memories of my own personal actor’s nightmare.

See, I was doing this production of The Actor’s Nightmare, go figure, when custard reared its ugly head. Let me explain: For those who don’t know the Christopher Durang play, it’s like this. A man with the unlikely name of George Spelvin is thrust on stage, sans script, sans costume, sans any notion whatsoever of where he is and is told he’s “going on” in a short number of minutes. Going on to what, George wonders, and soon finds out that he’s Hamlet and it’s opening night. Or maybe it’s Noel Coward’s Private Lives and he’s Elyot, or it’s Beckett’s Endgame, and he has to act while sitting in a garbage can. No matter, because soon enough it’s on to the execution scene in A Man For All Seasons, and George (as Sir Thomas More) has his head on the chopping block.

Now in the script, George’s fellow actors have gathered around him, all save for Dame Ellen Terry, who is still in Endgame mode, eyes out front, up to her neck in a garbage can. The actress now playing Thomas’ mother enters, carrying a custard, uttering the line “I’ve brought you a custard, Thomas.” Thomas thanks his mother (or some such) and she stands there, holding custard and spoon, until the moment the executioner swings his axe and the lights go out.

In my own personal actor’s nightmare, it goes more like this:

Thomas’ mother enters: “I’ve brought you a custard,” she says and stumbles slightly causing the custard to fly up into the air and land, face down on the stage in front of the gathered cast. She gasps, then giggles. Fellow cast members attempt to say their lines, then giggle. Then laugh. Then, along with the audience, guffaw most horribly.

All except me. Why? No sense of humor? Nah. It’s because I’m Ellen freaking Terry, stuck in the garbage can out front and I don’t see a damned thing.

So here I am – attempting to be the best straight man the Theater of the Absurd has to offer – in character even, eyes out front, never a glance behind to see what the hell is going on, uttering my lines with the straightest face I can muster, and in a garbage can no less – and just upstage of me we’ve got the entire Roman Legion from the Bigus Dickus scene in Life of Brian, all because of a CUSTARD.

Is it any wonder I am scarred for life?

Now, Chopper assures me that my playing the straight man probably generated even more laughter from the audience. Not that this is any consolation. In fact, it could provoke me to shun custard all the more. But, because this is Sugar High Friday, and the theme is indeed custard, I will allow him to play. Provided he does it away from home.

Fortunately, on that score, we’re in luck. Chopper’s been patisserie guy at the restaurant for a while now, and today is the perfect day for him to make another rendition of his successful dessert special, Bread and Butter Pudding. And this isn’t just any bread and butter pudding. It’s a brandy-soaked concoction with home (or rather restaurant) made brioche. The recipes for pudding and brioche are Chopper’s adaptations from recipes in Professional Baking by Wayne Gisslen (4th edition). And because this is for a restaurant, it’s a big recipe. We’re talking 18 by 34 by 4 inch hotel pan here, and enough tasty goodness for eighteen rather sizable portions.

Brandy Brioche Bread and Butter Pudding

serves 18

Brioche (adapted from Professional Baking p. 141)

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces (1/2 cup) half & half
  • 1 ounces active dry yeast
  • 4 ounces all-purpose flour
  • 10 ounces eggs
  • 1 pound all-purpose flour
  • 1 ounce sugar
  • .35 ounces (2 teaspoons) kosher salt
  • 14 ounces butter, softened

Method

  1. Scald half & half and cool to lukewarm.
  2. Dissolve yeast in half & half, add flour and mix to make a sponge.
  3. Let rise till double.
  4. Place sponge in mixer with paddle attachment.
  5. Gradually mix in eggs.
  6. Then add dry ingredients to make a soft dough.
  7. Beat in butter, a little at a time until it’s completely absorbed and the dough is smooth. (It will be very soft and sticky.)
  8. Let rise 20 minutes, then pan.
  9. Bake at 375 F for at least 45 minutes or until it passes the toothpick test.

Bread & Butter Pudding (adapted from Professional Baking, p. 467)

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds brioche sliced thin
  • 8 ounces butter, melted
  • 2 pounds eggs
  • 1 pound sugar
  • .16 ounces (1 teaspoon) kosher salt
  • 1 ounce vanilla extract
  • 5 pounds (2 1/2 quarts) half & half
  • 8 ounce brandy

Method

  1. Cut each slice of brioche in half.
  2. Brush both sides of each piece with melted butter.
  3. Arrange the brioche slices so that they overlap in the pan.
  4. Mix together eggs, sugar, salt, vanilla, and brandy until thoroughly combined.
  5. Add half & half.
  6. Pour custard mixture over the brioche in the pan.
  7. Let stand, refrigerated for at least one hour until brioche absorbs the custard mixture.
  8. Set pan in another 4″ hotel pan, filled with one inch of hot water, then place in oven preheated to 375 F.
  9. Bake for 1 hour or until set.

For many more custards, check out the Sugar High Friday Round-up!

Paper Chef #10: the New Orleans edition

Tuesday, September 6th, 2005

rocks on the beach

We’ve been at a loss for words. I think we still are, to some extent, numb from the horrific events of this past week and not quite able to sit ourselves down and just write about food without thinking of the outrage of so many going without for so long. (Lord knows I’ve tried posting every day; tried and failed.)

But this month’s Paper Chef, with its New Orleans theme, has finally pulled us back to our neglected blog and reminded us that life can (and must) go on.

Chopper and I have never been to New Orleans and in fact just two weeks ago or less we were brainstorming a potential trip around the country and naming our must-see cities. New Orleans was at the top of my list. I still want to go, though I know it’ll be a while yet. I want to see the New Orleans that once was and will be again. I want to fall in love with her as so many of my friends have.

But that must wait, and in the meantime, we’ll give the city and her neighbors to the east as best a culinary tribute as we can muster, improvised with our own Northwest flair.

Paper Chef’s four required ingredients as selected by Owen of Tomatilla were sausage, beer, tomatoes, and shrimp. Owen’s further suggestion for this month’s competition: “participate in the Paper Chef this weekend specifically INSTEAD of going out to dinner one night” and then donate the money we would have spent to hurricane disaster relief.

Since we don’t dine out much (or spend much when we do) we decided instead to choose simple ingredients, raid the panty (or the freezer) if we could, and cook enough for several meals. It seemed most fitting: Jambalaya and biscuits and gravy; hearty meals we wish we could cook for Katrina’s refugees if we weren’t two thousand miles away. Dishes designed to fill us up on the cheap so our money could go where it mattered so much more. All told, we spent no more than $25 and our Paper Chef results fed three people for three lunches and four dinners.

And here’s where I have to stop and consider for a moment. It’s easy to congratulate ourselves: Seven meals and for only twenty-five bucks? Good going! As if there weren’t thousands upon countless thousands in this country alone who’d gladly take twenty-five bucks to feed a family of five for a week. If there’s one thing that’s shocked me even more than the gross incompetence of our government in this disaster, it’s the gross and willful ignorance of so many who truly believe that everyone who stayed in New Orleans stayed out of choice; who truly do not get what poverty means. Couldn’t they have walked, they ask. Why don’t they have cars? If they all had 40-hour-a-week jobs and weren’t so lazy, they could have been prepared. I am numb with fury over such thoughts, and I lack the eloquence to put into words how much it breaks my heart to know that a disaster of this magnitude isn’t enough to smack a little empathy into the damaged souls of the selfish.

Instead, I’d like to direct readers to these links. First, from writer John Scalzi on Being Poor. If you’ve been there, it’ll bring back memories. If you haven’t, it’ll open eyes. Second, this most excellent post and its follow-up from novelist Cherie Priest. Just go, read, you’ll be glad you did.

Last, closer to our virtual home, Amy of Beauty Joy Food is hosting a fundraiser. She asks participants (and you don’t need a food blog to join in) to write about New Orleans — food, memories, music, whatever — and then add this banner and fundraising link to your post:



We’ve no memories to share, but for this post, we’ve food. Good, hearty Southern food, Belly Timber style. Enjoy, share, live, and most of all, give.

Chopper's Northwestern Jambalaya

Chopper’s Northwestern Jambalaya

(For this recipe, we raided our freezer for a hefty helping of Dungeness crab, leftover from a summer picnic — which we’ll cover in another post… soon… we promise! The bacon and rice were freebies, and Chopper saved us even more by making the andouille at home.)

Ingredients

  • 1 pound homemade andouille sausage (see below)
  • 1/4 pound bacon
  • 1/2 pound 21-30 cooked shrimp
  • 2 whole, cooked Dungeness crabs
  • 4 medium sized fresh tomatoes, chopped
  • 4 cups jasmine rice
  • 1 pound dry red beans (soaked overnight)
  • 2 pints light American lager
  • 2 1/2 cups red wine
  • 2 cups water

For the Homemade andouille sausage:

  • 1 pund pork shoulder
  • 1 pound smoked pork hock
  • 4 tablespoons Chopper’s Blackening Spice
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • Pulse all ingredients together in a food processor until finely chopped, but not pureed.

    Method

    1. In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high, when oil begins to smoke add bacon, and cook until most of the fat is rendered out. Add sausage and cook until firm. Deglaze pot with a small portion of the red wine.
    2. When the wine is, for the most part, evaporated, add rice and stir until all the rice is covered in fat (and spices from the andouille), then add the beer, remaining red wine, water and half of the chopped tomatoes. Bring to a simmer.
    3. Take cooked whole crabs, remove top shell, then clean and de-gill, and break into quarters.
    4. When the mixture is still bubbling, but near done, add shrimp and crab pieces and bring to temp.
    5. Turn out entire dish onto a platter or large bowl, garnish with other half of the chopped tomatoes, serves… many.

    (For this version, we snagged a bag of pablano peppers at the local farmer’s market, roasted and skinned them to be stuffed with jambalaya as a garnish.)

    Chopper's Northwestern Jambalaya

    Stuffed biscuits with spicy gravy

    For the biscuits

  • 3 pounds biscuit dough
  • 1/2 pound chorizo
  • 1/2 pound shrimp, peeled & deveined
  • 2 medium sized tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 cup light American lager
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • For the gravy

  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 cup 2% milk
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • Method

    1. Cook chorizo in a medium skillet. When chorizo is firm, add shrimp and tomatoes, season to taste with salt & pepper.
    2. Make biscuits, using standard method, substituting beer for other liquid.
    3. Once biscuit dough is complete, lay portions on a sheet pan lined with parchment. Create depressions within the portions of dough and fill with sausage, shrimp, and tomato mixture. Top with another layer of dough. Repeat until you run out of dough.
    4. Place biscuits in 400 degree oven.
    5. While biscuits are cooking, bring remaining sausage, tomato, & shrimp mixture back to medium-high heat.
    6. Add butter.
    7. When butter is fully melted, add flour and make mixture into a roux.
    8. Cook roux until the “popcorn” aroma has dissipated (meaning, the flour’s flavor has cooked away), then add milk.
    9. Reduce slightly until gravy has achieved desired consistency.
    10. Ladle over finished biscuits. Serve hot.

    This recipe served six generous portions.

    Stuffed biscuits with spicy gravy

    Dine & Dish #4: Rachael Ray for a Day

    Monday, August 22nd, 2005

    (Since we, the notoriously last minute, broke our record for tardiness during Dine & Dish #3 and posted a full two weeks late, for Dine & Dish #4 we offer up this Three Act Drama as an apology, and plead forgiveness for any past transgressions. As for our current transgressions, let us just say that we kid because we love. Honest, we do… Sorry, Rachael. We couldn’t help ourselves.)

    $40 A DAY
    the San Juan Island edition:
    A drama in three acts

    ACT ONE
    Mrs D-Ray does Breakfast

    EXT. FARMER’S MARKET – DAY

    MRS D. strolls down the main aisle. She has the look of someone on a serious java jive. CHOPPER DAVE follows, visibly perplexed.

    MRS. D
    We’re here on beautiful San Juan Island in northern Washington on the far northwest corner of the United States

    CHOPPER
    Who are you talking to?

    MRS. D
    (ignoring Chopper)
    And we’re here to see if we can get by on just 40 a day! San Juan County has the second largest percentage of land dedicated to farming in all of western Washington, so what better way to start off the day than with a trip to the local farmer’s market! Mmm, just look at all these yummy vegetables!

    CHOPPER
    Wow. This perky thing is creeping me out. Oh, and that’s contiguous United States. You’re forgetting Alaska.

    MRS. D
    Contiguous. That’s a big word. Anyway, one thing I just love about farmer’s markets is the baked goods. When you see a stand with someone offering cinnamon rolls or banana bread or scones, you know it’s going to be home made and fresh baked just that morning. I have a busy day ahead of me, sight-seeing on the island, so I’ve decided to start things off with a light breakfast of Lavender lemonade from the Pelindaba Lavender Farm stand, and a piece of delicious coffee cake from two wonderful women at the stand next door. Oh and look! Neither stand left out a tip jar. Score!

    Pelidaba display at the Farmers Market

    CHOPPER
    Uh, the assignment was “be Rachael Ray for a day”, not “become Rachael Ray for a day.”

    MRS. D
    Mmmmm, the lavender lemonade is so refreshing — they infuse regular lemonade with lavender and — yum! — I never knew a flower could taste this good. And the coffee cake. Wow, so moist and rich.

    CHOPPER
    (to passers-by)
    I don’t know this woman. Really. I don’t.

    MRS. D
    The lavender lemonade only set me back a buck fifty, and the coffee cake, just three dollars for this great big piece. That’s just $4.50 for breakfast, which leaves me with $35.50 for the rest of the day!

    CHOPPER
    You’ll be back to your normal self tomorrow, right? Please?

    MRS. D
    Whatever do you mean, honeybun?

    (Obvious tip #1: Buying your meal at a farmer’s market or outdoor stand saves you even more money because farm vendors hardly ever bother to calculate meal tax!)

    ACT TWO
    Mrs D-Ray does Lunch

    EXT. DOWNTOWN FRIDAY HARBOR – DAY

    Mrs. D strolls past galleries, even perkier than before. Chopper follows, lurking in doorways, always at least ten feet away.

    MRS. D
    After the farmer’s market, I took a little walk around town and checked out all the cute little shops and art galleries. The San Juan Islands have a thriving artist community and I wasted no time finding the perfect gift to remind me of my trip here.

    CHOPPER
    Hello? You live here!

    MRS. D
    And, look! They even have a whale museum!

    CHOPPER
    They have a whale museum, I have a headache.

    MRS. D
    Now that I’m done visiting every single art gallery in town, I’ve worked up quite an appetite for lunch.

    CHOPPER
    Wait a sec. Aren’t these parts supposed to be voice-overs?

    MRS. D
    Shush! I want something inexpensive but filling, and I’m certain I’ll find it within just a few blocks.

    Many of the best restaurants here open for lunch with smaller versions of their high-end dinner dishes, and while a lot of these places look great, most of them are just beyond my price range, and I want to stay in my budget and leave plenty of room for dinner. So, how do I find a perfect place for lunch on my budget? Ask the locals, of course!

    CHOPPER
    You ARE local! Duh!

    CUT TO:

    INT. ART GALLERY — DAY

    A totally staged conversation

    MRS. D
    Hey, I’m looking for a great place for lunch. Nothing too expensive, but something where I can get a nice big plate of food.

    GALLERY CLERK
    Well, when I’m hungry and I want to go somewhere where I can get something other than a sandwich or a burger, I go get a nice big plate of Pad Thai at Golden Triangle.

    MRS. D
    Oooh, Golden Triangle, where’s that?

    GALLERY CLERK
    It’s just down the street and around the corner, on the way to the ferry line!

    CUT TO:

    Golden Triangle

    EXT. GOLDEN TRIANGLE – DAY

    Mrs. D pulls up a seat at an outdoor table. Chopper sighs heavily, sets two mugs of beer on the table and joins her.

    MRS. D
    (even perkier than before)
    Pad Thai sounds just about perfect, so my lunch quest is at an end!

    CHOPPER
    Quest? What is the matter with you?

    MRS. D
    (sing-songy voice with hands over ears)
    Not listening. La-la-la-la-la-la-la!

    Chopper buries his head in his hands.

    MRS. D
    Turns out that Golden triangle is owned and operated by the same wonderful chef who runs the Thai Kitchen just a few blocks away next to the whale museum. I’ve heard she’s got a great reputation, so I know I’m in for a treat. And at just $5.95, I can splurge and spend extra on a spring roll and a mug of Singha beer!

    Pad Thai

    CHOPPER
    The beer is my idea. It’s necessary.

    MRS. D
    (excruciatingly perky)
    Yum, the spring roll is so delicate. It’s got just the right mix of lettuce, chicken, and rice noodles, and it’s wrapped and lightly fried in a rice wrapper, not the usual spring roll wrapper. And the dipping sauce is perfection. With that and the huge plate of Pad Thai and the beer, I am stuffed, and this meal with tax and tip only set me back $14.92. That leaves a whole $20.58 for dinner! Bea-utiful! I bet I can find something great at that price and check out the local entertainment!
    (Mrs. D points across the street)
    Hey! Look! It’s karaoke night at Herb’s!

    CHOPPER
    Oh no. Do NOT go there.

    (Obvious Tip #2: Don’t eat at expensive places if you’re on a budget!)

    ACT THREE
    Mrs D-Ray does dinner

    EXT. MADRONA BAR AND GRILL – ROCHE HARBOR – DAY

    Chopper is at the bar. He’s on his fourth pint.

    CHOPPER
    Will this day ever end?

    MRS. D
    (yes, she’s still perky)
    Now, Friday Harbor is not the only town on the island. On the North side there’s Roche Harbor, a cute little resort town that was once home to the Tacoma and Roche Harbor Lime Company and the richest lime deposits in the Northwest. Here, you can enjoy a walk in the formal gardens, or a stay at the beautiful 22 room Hotel de Haro which was built in 1886 around a Hudson’s Bay Company Trading Post.

    Roche Harbor has three restaurants – the limekiln cafe, a great place for a quick outdoor lunch on the docks, the Madrona Grill — a second outdoor cafe, but attached to the bar and open into the evening, and McMillan’s the high end dining establishment just upstairs from the Grill. Now I knew my budget couldn’t handle a trip to McMillan’s, but what about the bar and grill? Would coming to this resort town be my undoing?

    Lucky for me, the menu looked perfectly reasonable. I had to wait a bit for an outdoor table, but it gave me a chance to splurge a second time for the day and order a cocktail.

    Drink your drink

    Despite my fabulous lunch of Pad Thai and spring rolls, I’d worked up another appetite and was looking for something thick and meaty.

    Mrs. D flags a server.

    MRS. D
    (so perky it hurts)
    I’m looking for something thick and meaty!

    Chopper chokes on a mouthful of beer.

    The server points to an item on the menu.

    MRS. D
    Cherrywood Smoked Kobe Beef Brisket Sandwich! Wow! Now this I have to have! The brisket is smoked for 12 hours, and then they put it in a grilled bun with pickled red onions, they’re own custom Cole slaw, and barbecue sauce. Let’s go visit the chef and learn how it’s done!

    Mrs. D jumps up from the table and takes a step toward the kitchen.

    CHOPPER
    Whoa. Hang on there. Sit. Drink your drink.

    MRS. D
    But, I have to go see–

    Chopper sits Mrs D back down at the table.

    CHOPPER
    Now, listen very carefully. You are not a Food Network Star. You do not have a Food Network show.

    MRS. D
    (as her perky smile becomes a pout)
    But– But– I want to be like Rachael Ray every day and in every way!

    CHOPPER
    No. I’m ordering you a drink. It’s just not going to happen.

    MRS. D
    It’s not?

    CHOPPER
    No. First off, the perky thing is so not you.

    MRS. D.
    It’s not?

    CHOPPER
    It’s not.

    MRS. D
    I’m– I’m a naturally un-perky, cranky person, aren’t I?

    CHOPPER
    Yes. Yes you are.

    MRS. D
    And as such, I probably shouldn’t ever try to be a perky Food Network Star, should I?

    CHOPPER
    No. No you should not.

    MRS. D
    (blubbering)
    So, I should just order and eat this amazingly tasty sandwich and not wax orgasmic about how tender the brisket is, or how the toasted bun adds the perfect texture, or how the Cole slaw and pickled onions are so tangy and sweet and– and– how the whole thing only cost me $10.95, and that plus drink and tax and tip only comes to eighteen dollars and sixty cents so the total for the day is just $38.02 and how I stayed within my budget just like Rachael Ray-ay-ay-ay-ay-aaaaaay?

    Mrs. D bursts into tears.

    Roche Harbor brisket

    CHOPPER
    There, there. It’s not the end of the world, not being a Food Network Star.

    MRS. D
    (sulking)
    But– But– I was going to put on my gingham and denim mini skirt ensemble when we got home.

    Chopper lowers his shades for a moment and raises an eyebrow. He flags the waiter.

    CHOPPER
    Excuse me? Could we get something chocolate off the desert menu… To go, please?

    –Fin–

    Roche Harbor

    San Juan Farmer’s Market
    10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
    Saturdays at the County Courthouse parking lot on Second Street in Friday Harbor.
    Open May to mid-October weather permitting.

    Golden Triangle
    Spring St & 1st St

    Madrona Bar & Grill,
    Roche Harbor

    2005 Hours:
    May 1 thru May 19 open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.
    May 20 thru Sept 5 open 11 a.m. to 12 midnight.

    SHF #11: The Celestial Coffee Edition

    Friday, August 12th, 2005

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    Blame it on the softball stage.

    No, not the one that has to do with sugar, but the one that involves guys taking days off of work to whack at balls and slide at bags in the dirt. That softball stage.

    Not that I have a problem with softball, generally speaking, it’s just that when Chopper and I plan our day off to include dueling Sugar High Friday projects (Me: truffles. Him: Irish coffee Pot de crème), we don’t particularly like it when that plan is ruined because a co-worker has managed to get every ligament in his ankle torn to shreds playing softball. Is it too evil of me to mention our co-worker’s team lost? I didn’t think so.

    So, here I am, flying solo. Granted, Chopper came home for a brief respite between lunch and dinner shifts and spun me some sugar, but the rest of it is mine, all mine, baby.

    And, as usual, I got a little carried away.

    In honor of tonight’s Perseid Meteor Shower and the comet at its source, Mrs D presents:

    The Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    The gist of it:

    One 3 1/2 ounce dark chocolate bar. It is crucial that this not just be any dark chocolate bar, but one that is made up only of cocoa, cocoa butter, sugar, and if absolutely necessary a bit of soy lecithin and vanilla extract. It should be at least 70% cocoa if not higher. That namby pamby Hershey’s crap just will not do. Fortunately for me, I’m a dark chocolate fiend and I’d already scoped out my scrumptious Eat Local alternative: Terra Nostra’s Organic 73% Intense Dark Chocolate Bar, made just a short jaunt to the Northeast in beautiful Vancouver BC.

    Terra Nostra Chocolate Bar - yum!

    Can I just say, at the risk of getting all gloopy and lovesick, that this chocolate bar rocks my world. If I was only allowed one thing to carry forward from the Eat Local Challenge if would be this chocolate bar.

    One quarter cup heavy cream. Ideally, this cream should be fresh, local, and organic. Ideally. Sometimes though, the only cream remotely organic isn’t remotely local, and isn’t remotely affordable. Oh well.

    A smidgen of unsalted butter. Don’t ask me how much a smidgen is. I think I tossed in about a teaspoon. I think it was because I panicked while lost in the middle of recipe invention and had images of unmoldable chocolate globules. Or something.

    Toss these things into a double-boiler. Break the chocolate bar into chunks first. Try very hard not to eat any. When it’s all melty, add:

    Two teaspoons of Lopez Island Farm Marionberry Syrup. I am so making waffles so I can use the rest of this stuff. Then I’m hopping the ferry and raiding the farm for more.

    One tablespoon of finely ground fresh roasted espresso beans from the San Juan Coffee Roasting Company. How freshly roasted? How about within hours of my purchase. Oh, and the company’s store down on Cannery Landing has some lovely chocolates of their own as well. I was sorely tempted.

    One teaspoon of San Juan Cellars Late Harvest Riesling. I know, I know, what’s the point of wine in a truffle? It’s not like anyone can taste it. Well, it’s like this: I came out of the Roasting Company and it was ferry loading time. Translation: No chance in hell of crossing the street for at least ten minutes. So, it was either wait outside or wander into the San Juan Cellars retail store and have a 10 a.m. wine tasting. Like I’m going to pass that up. I left with a bottle of the Late Harvest Riesling and the plan to add a spoonful of it to my truffle recipe just so I could mention the fact that in Friday Harbor one can get a 10 a.m. wine tasting ten feet from the ferry dock.

    Local wine and syrup

    Mix everything together and try not to panic about whether it’ll harden well enough (or too well). Put a lid on it and pop it in the fridge for a few hours, or overnight if you prefer.

    When the mixture has sufficiently hardened, it’s time to get messy. Very messy. I’m all about making truffles the old-fashioned messy way. Or maybe it’s that no one’s ever taught me how to properly make truffles. Either way, I set up next to the sink because I know I’m going to have to wash my hands at least twice for every single truffle I make.

    First I set out my supplies.

    The pan of chocolate.

    A Turkish coffee cup from the same set we kidnapped for our eggy IMBB #16

    A jar of Dutch unsweetened chocolate powder that’s been in my pantry for ages so I’ve no idea where it’s from. Pour about a teaspoon full of it into the Turkish coffee cup.

    A bowl of freshly picked blackberries. The original plan was to drive to a farm this morning and buy Marionberries to go with the syrup, but then softball happened. So instead, I took Platelicker for a walk and picked blackberries along the way. Himalayan Blackberries are ubiquitous and quite tasty this time of year, but oh those vines are invasive pests! If we could just discipline them to behave themselves around the locals we’d plant blackberries in our own yard instead of rip them out each spring.

    Blackberries

    A plate to set truffles on.

    Now, the messy part. Pull out a dose of chocolate, about the size of an aggie shooter and work it into the shape of a bowl. Right away it’s going to start getting horribly sticky and you’re going to want lick your fingers, but hold off just for a moment. Ignore the fact that some of the buttery stuff has separated and made light flecks in the mixture. It’ll still taste good.

    Chocolate Truffle Mix

    Take a blackberry and place it into your chocolate bowl, then take more chocolate and work it around the top to form the lid, enclosing the berry and forming a sphere.

    Drop the sticky ball into the Turkish coffee cup. Wash your hands. Or lick your fingers. Your choice.

    Pour another half-teaspoon of Dutch chocolate over the sticky ball, then lift up the cup and swirl it, like you’re swirling cream into your coffee. (But don’t ever put cream in Turkish coffee because that would be wrong.) The chocolate powder will cover the truffle in a nice even coat and then all you need do is lift the puppy out and set it on a plate. You may not even need to wash your hands a second time.

    Truffle in a cup

    Repeat this till you’re out of chocolate. With this recipe I made three truffles with berries and six without.

    Next, prepare the comet’s fiery tail. (Or rather, make sugar decorations for your truffle so it’ll be all pretty for the camera.) Find the smallest ladle in the house and coat the outside of it with vegetable oil. Heat sugar and water over the stove till it reaches caramel stage. Grab a spoon and quickly spin the sugar over the ladle so it creates a lovely, golden, Jackson Pollack mess. Wait till the sugar cools, then carefully remove it from the ladle.

    Set the sugar bowl on a plate, place the truffle inside and decorate. I saved a blackberry for a topper, some broken sugar bowl for outer décor, and more of the fabulous marionberry syrup for drizzle.

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    So, there it is, the Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle. All chocolaty, all yummy, and all mine. Chopper’s not even home from work yet, and come to think of it, he doesn’t even like coffee all that much and this comet’s got one hell of an espresso kick to it. Yes, it’s all mine.

    Hmmm. Maybe softball’s not so bad after all.

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    WBW #12: Drink Local

    Thursday, August 11th, 2005

    San Juan Vineyards - Siegerrebe


    Since we here at Belly-Timber are all about cheap wines on a cheap budget (Mmm, Gato Negro, baby…), we’ve yet to participate in Wine Blogging Wednesday. It’s not that we don’t like good wine — we love it and cherish it and wish we could take it home and show it a good time more often — it’s just that, well, to be blunt, we’re cheap. If we’ve got thirty bucks to blow on a nice meal at home, twenty of it’s going into Ahi steaks and the ten bucks we’ve left is getting us the largest amount of wine we can find this side of a box. We do not do boxes.

    This month, we make an exception.

    It’s Local Challenge month and the assignment for Wine Blogging Wednesday is “Drink Local. Real Local. … Drink a wine from the winery nearest to your apartment/house/shack/bungalow/flat/tent.” Lenn from Lenndevours has even threatened to get out the atlas and fact check, just to be sure we’re not cheating. I figured we’d save him the trouble, so I did a little checking of our own with Yahoo Maps’ handy driving directions function and came up with this short list:

    1) San Juan Cellars. At 5.3 miles from our home, they’re definitely the closest, but there’s a catch. The location isn’t so much a winery as a gift shop wherein they sell their wines, all of which are made with grapes grown in Eastern Washington, at least 150 miles away. Not exactly what I had in mind for drinking local.

    2) Westcott Bay Orchards. A bit too far away for our purposes at 15.9 miles, but they’re worth mention as a unique winery that produces a tasty hard cider from “vintage” European cider apples. They’re on our list to check out in the near future.

    3) Lopez Island Vineyards. Yahoo Maps failed me on this one, but I’d say 6 miles as the gull flies. Or as the orca swims. You get the picture. They feature several estate-grown wines and are a perfect choice for a visit … if the visit didn’t involve a full day off and a battle with tourists over space on the inter-island ferry. We’ll be saving that one for later as well.

    4) San Juan Vineyards. Ah, here we are, just 8.9 miles from the house, and they grow their own! Time for a quick road trip!

    San Juan Vineyards

    The winery, established in 1996, is located three miles northwest of Friday Harbor on Roche Harbor road. B. of Culinary Fool visited last month and wrote about a camel she spied amongst the cows across the road. We missed the camel, but discovered instead this rather charming cat in the parking lot. A cat who fell deeply in love with the bumper of our Caravan and refused to leave without serious coaxing.

    To the right of the parking lot sits the gift shop and tasting room. A century ago, this same building was San Juan Island’s one-room school house. Up the gentle, south-facing slope from the shop’s deck are outbuildings for the wine’s manufacture, a tiny chapel (available for weddings, of course), and beyond that, eight acres of cool-climate varietal grapes, designated for the production of the winery’s two Estate grown wines, Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe.

    San Juan Vineyards

    The first of the two Estate grown wines wasn’t available for tasting, so we zeroed in on the second, eager to discover what a truly local wine could offer us — and we were not disappointed.

    The Siegerrebe has a citrus bouquet but with hints of spice, and the flavor — spice, honey, grapefruit — was delicate, not overpowering, but sweet enough that we both thought this wine would be best served as an aperitif or with a single, subtle dish (steamed butter clams or crab would be my local choices).

    It might seem surprising that island-grown grapes could produce such a sweet wine, except that the San Juans have the geographical fortune of resting in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains. With its own collection of microclimates, our island gets just 18 to 28 inches of rainfall a year, compared to a whopping 120 in the little town of Forks on the peninsula’s western edge. Seattle, a part-time rain shadow beneficiary, gets 37. East of us, the Cascade rain shadow provides the Yakima and Columbia Valleys with one of the best grape-growing (and apple-growing) climates in the Northwest, and this is where many Puget Sound wineries get all but a select few of their varietals.

    San Juan Vineyards - Barrels

    San Juan Vineyards ships regionally; their website lists a number of restaurants, grocers, and specialty shops in the Islands and in other parts of Washington that carry their wines. Where Chopper and I work, we carry the Chardonnay by the bottle, and their 2002 Syrah (a three time gold medal winner) is our house syrah.

    We left the vineyard with a bottle of the Siegarrebe for $13.75 and a bargain: a three-for-twenty sale on their Semillon Chardonnay. There’s not a chance those four bottles will last us the month, but we’ve just scratched the surface of drinking locally. We’ve got Lopez Island and some hard cider ahead of us, and, come to think of it, it’s been far too long since we’ve headed down to the pub for a pint of locally-brewed Moggy Mild.

    For more food blogging and photos from San Juan Vineyards, check out B’s post at Culinary Fool!

    Paper Chef #9: Summer of Prawns

    Tuesday, August 9th, 2005

    summer of prawns


    We missed Paper Chef last month. Well, actually, we didn’t: we cooked a Paper Chef meal, but we were then trapped in Portland away from computers for an extra day and lost our chance to post about it. We will soon, just for kicks, and only because the meal contained an edible object of such unspeakable terror that we dare not utter its name. So, so horrible… ph-nglui mglw’nafh Cthulhu R’lyeh wgah’nagl fhtagn! Ahem. But enough about that. On to August.)

    This month, says Owen of Tomatilla, it’s Paper Chef, the Local edition. Bonus points to everyone who sources their ingredients locally. (Bonus points? This is scored on a point system and no one told me?)

    To that end, Owen picked ingredients that allowed at least most of us a fighting chance at local sourcing:

    Peaches
    Dried chilies
    Edible flowers (especially lavender — woohoo!)
    And (another woohoo!)
    A local ingredient of your choosing

    Items two and three were no problem. We have edible flowers of several kinds in our garden, and as fortune would have it, we had two bags of locally grown dried chilies left over from a recent trip to the farmer’s market.

    Peaches were a bit more of an issue. The farmer’s market doesn’t have much fruit this time of year and the one farm I thought might grow peaches (or at least nectarines) was closed on the day we’d planned a visit. So, off to the grocery store where we broke our 100 mile radius, but kept ourselves in state by picking up a few peaches from Wenatchee Washington, just east of the Cascades.

    But what to do about ingredient #4? We had ripe items in our garden, but we wanted something other than a vegetable and Chopper was getting this serious hankering for a Caribbean-themed meal. That’s it, I said, let’s go to the farmer’s market and see if Spot Prawn Guy is there.

    The local spot prawn season is short — it only lasts a month or so in summer, but during that time, not only can we find spot prawns at the farmers market, but roadside stands with hand-painted signs announcing SPOT PRAWNS are as omnipresent as signs for charity car washes. (Okay, so we saw only two spot prawn signs and two charity car wash signs during the month of July, but you get the idea…)

    During my childhood here in the 1970s, the stands and sales were plentiful. Now though, from what we can tell it’s pretty much down to one guy and his boat and his stand at the Northeast corner of the farmer’s market.

    Spot Prawn Guy

    Of course Spot Prawn Guy didn’t tell us exactly where he got his amazingly fresh and delicious prawns (if he did, he’d have to kill us), but we know it’s nearby — probably no farther than Lummi Island, about 15 miles to the Northeast. We did find out we were quite lucky: this was his last catch of the season.

    So, other than the peaches, did we stay in our radius? Well, um…. Okay, I admit, it was partly my fault. I had this crazy notion involving yams and the only yams we could find were from California. Yeah, we could have switched to potatoes from the garden, but it just wouldn’t have been the same. Oh, and Chopper used allspice, pepper, and garlic salt. (Forgive us, please!) But seriously, look how close to our kitchen our edible flowers are. See? We even measured:

    Nasturtiums
    Lavender

    (I should note that the herbs we used are just out of shot in that second photo, also a mere 16 feet from the kitchen window.)

    So, with (mostly) local ingredients obtained and mise en place … er, in place, let the improvisational cooking begin:

    mise en place

    Summer of Prawns

    Ingredients

    • 6 Puget Sound spot prawns
    • 1 Fresh Wenatchee peach, split and pitted. Make sure to dig a small “bowl” out of the flesh
    • 1 yam
    • Chopper’s Blackening Spice (see below)
    • 1 teaspoon fresh lavender
    • 6 Fresh nasturtium blossoms
    • Juice of 1/2 a lemon
    • Custom BBQ sauce, as needed

    Chopper’s Blackening Spice

    • 8 dried paprika chiles (ground)
    • 3 dried cayenne chiles (also ground)
    • 1 teaspoon oregano (minced and dried)
    • 1 teaspoon thyme leaves (dry)
    • 1 teaspoon garlic salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
    1. Start your CHARCOAL grill (Note the emphasis. Chopper hates gas grills. –Mrs D.)
    2. Peel and cut yam into 3/4″ to 1″ chunks and place in a small pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Simmer until soft. (You can check by trying to crush a chunk against the side of the pot). Drain and cool. Place in a food processor with lavender, and puree. Add lemon juice and season with salt to taste.
    3. Place spot prawns on your CHARCOAL grill, shell on. (Yes, we know, Charcoal good. Gas bad.)
    4. Heat a cast iron pan over medium-high heat.
    5. Dredge the cut side of each peach half in blackening spice. When your pan begins to smoke, place peaches in, spiced side down.
    6. Retrieve prawns from the CHARCOAL grill. (Did I mention Chopper hates gas? Oh… right…)
    7. Remove peaches from pan, they should be BLACK on the cut side.
    8. Peel prawns and brush lightly with sauce.
    9. Place peaches on a plate and fill the “bowls” with yam puree.
    10. Arrange prawns in the puree. Garnish with fresh nasturtium blossoms.

    summer or prawns

    And how did it turn out?

    Very Caribbean. Spicy, yet fruity and with a definite taste of the sea. I’d say this was one of those dishes I can only classify as “weird but good.” It’s a unique flavor combo and definitely not for everyone, but we liked it well enough to eat it up and contemplate variations on the theme. Oh, and it’s pretty. My camera says thank you for the pretty.

    summer of prawns

    EoMEoTE #9: A curious prophecy

    Monday, August 8th, 2005

    Great Moments in Divination, chapter XVII

    It is a little known fact, not written in the annals of magic, that Sybil Trelawney, professor of divination, has made not two but three accurate prophecies during her sixteen years at Hogwarts. As the third prophecy was about the ingredients of Hagrid’s breakfast one Sunday morning in late September and not about He Who Must Not Be Named, most dismiss it as mere coincidence and continue to suggest that Professor Trelawney, great-great granddaughter of the illustrious Cassandra Trelawney, is a fraud.

    We here at Grumblebein’s Society for the Restoration of Magical Standing believe that this is poppycock. Sybil Trelawney’s predictive powers are quite strong, and this fact is no better demonstrated than by the brief breakfast anecdote that follows.

    Trelawney, as we all know, is quite an admirer of tea. Not only do the leaves serve her divination needs, but she drinks it daily by the gallon. On the particular September morning in question, however, calamity struck: she ran clean out. So, being a woman of sound mind and infinite resource, she bundled herself in scarves and sashes (it was quite breezy that day), and trundled down to Hagrid’s hut to seek out a fresh supply.

    Hagrid, it turned out, hadn’t a speck of tea about him. He was, in fact, making Turkish coffee and toasting slices of bread. He invited Trelawney to join him, and so she did, nearly knocking over a jar of paprika as she took her place at the table, unaware that this acceptance would lead to yet another Great Moment in Divination.

    Now, it is a little known fact (though perhaps slightly more known than Sybil Trelawney’s Third Prophecy) that the grounds of a thick cup of Turkish coffee are unsurpassed as tools of divination. And so, it came as no shock to the expert clairvoyant, when, upon setting down her empty cup next to an earthenware pot of yogurt and a basket of eggs, she had a most singular vision.

    The coffee grounds, it seemed, had formed themselves into a crystal clear picture of the future, thus prompting Sybil Trelawney to proclaim:

    “When the clock chimes thrice three and sleep is vanquished, four nestlings unhatched shall join with four slices of bread unburnt and two cups yogurt unspoilt, and the eating of dishes from far off lands shall be attended by the consumption of auspicious red powders and curious culinary herbs in small amounts and all will rejoice in its grand flavor. Be warned!”

    Hagrid, oblivious to the significance of Trelawney’s pronouncement simply said, “Well of course I’ve got four eggs and four pieces of toast and yogurt and paprika. Harry, Ron, and Hermione are dropping by for a fine Turkish breakfast of Cilbir!”

    It is regrettable that Hagrid was unable to recognize Trelawney’s Third Prophecy for what it was, for then we at Grumblebein’s Society for the Restoration of Magical Standing would have his account for the archives as well as hers, and the archives (as well as Trelawney’s reputation) would be richer for it.
    Sybil's CilburOne curious footnote: When Sybil Trelawney related this anecdote to us for our records she added a phrase we have yet to decipher. We include it here in the hope that some other scholar of magic might recognize its import. In fact, it may be that this Third Prophecy has much more about it than a simple prediction of breakfast. It may be that this Third Prophecy tells of the ultimate demise of the Dark Lord himself.

    The phrase, which Trelawney uttered in a deep and portentous voice, was thus:

    “Be warned, I say unto you. For when the days near thirty-one, it’s all to do with EoMEoTE!

    –Herophile Trelawney, Chief Council for Culinary Conduits of Clairvoyance, Grumblebein’s Society for the Restoration of Magical Standing

    Cilbir — a delightful Turkish dish of poached eggs, garlic yogurt sauce and paprika butter. Serve with bread or toast.

    Turkish coffee optional.

    IMBB #17: Two TasteTea Treats

    Tuesday, August 2nd, 2005

    tea smoked oysters

    So we’re stuck in traffic on I-5 (note to planners of military air shows: staging them within viewing distance of major interstate thoroughfares is DUMB. Ooooh, purty loop-de-loop contrails… CRASH…), and I realize, just south of Seattle — where, oh man, it’s total gridlock — that I’ve left my Chinese tea set in Portland. Not only that, but it’s packed in lord knows what unlabeled box and I probably won’t see it for a year.

    This sad fact reminds me of the IMBB post I’m supposed to write Sunday evening (assuming we make the 5:10 ferry, and it’s becoming increasingly apparent that we won’t), and that in turn reminds me of tea ceremonies (of which my family has none, other than we drink a LOT of the stuff) and of the Classical Chinese Garden in Portland, which has an absolutely lovely tea house that I recommend to everyone who ever visits Portland. Unless, of course, they are visiting Portland to attend a military air show.

    My favorite thing about the tea house (aside from the view of the garden and the sublime variety of green teas) is that each cup of tea is prepared in a gaiwan, which is infinitely better than the caddy full of tea bags and the stainless steel mini-pot of hot water I get at just about any other tea-serving establishment I frequent. Except for our favorite dim sum joint, of course. There, we get a nice big pot of jasmine/chrysanthemum blend and I drink it like it’s going out of style.

    Anyway, back to the task at hand. We did have a single afternoon last week during which we could play with food and tea, but sadly, we had little time to do anything fancy — no puff pastry barquettes or plaid raviolis, alas. Instead, Chopper made a Southwestern Corn Tortilla soup with Chimayo Sunset tea (which was quite good though I had difficulty picking out the tea’s flavor), and, because it was the day after 25 cent U-pick oyster day (more on that glorious event in a future post) and I had a bucket of the puppies crying to be shucked, he McGuyvered up a smoker with drying rack, pie tin, and skillet lid, and provided us with some to-die-for Jasmine Tea Smoked Oysters with Garlic Green Tea Emulsified Vinaigrette.

    corn tortilla soup

    Southwestern Corn Tortilla Soup

    Ingredients

    • 1 whole fryer chicken
    • 12 corn tortillas
    • 1 cup chicken broth
    • 3 cups High Desert Herbal Tea – Chimayo Sunset (just the particular brand I used, but any fruit tea will do)
    • 8 ounces jicama, diced
    • 1/2 green bell pepper, diced
    • 1/2 red bell pepper, diced
    • 10 pearl onions, quartered
    • 1 teaspoon round, toasted cumin
    • 1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves
    • 2 teaspoon paprika
    • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
    • Salt to taste
    1. In a large pot, place enough water to cover the whole chicken. Remove chicken and bring water to a boil.
    2. Put chicken back in the pot and blanch for 8 minutes.
    3. Remove chicken, shock (cool rapidly, usually using ice water), and refrigerate. Keep water at a low simmer.
    4. In a separate pot, bring tea and chicken broth to a boil.
    5. Tear tortillas by hand and drop into boiling liquid.
    6. Reduce head to a simmer, and stir often. Make sure nothing sticks. Add some of the liquid used to blanch the chicken if it gets too thick.
    7. Disassemble chicken, and dice the meat into 1 inch cubes
    8. When tortilla pieces have fully broken down, add vegetables and chicken. Bring back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
    9. Continue to simmer until chicken is “fall apart” tender.
    10. Serve hot.

    (Note: Remember to keep adding liquid if it gets too thick… Oh and about the garnish in the photo: I had some Dungeness crab meat that was kind of lying around from an event which we’ll cover in a different post, and I couldn’t resist using it. It was an excellent compliment.)

    Tea Smoked Oysters with Garlic Green Tea Emulsified Vinaigrette

    For Vinaigrette

    • 1/2 teaspoon pasted garlic
    • 2 ounces freshly steeped, strained green tea (ie, not the leaves)
    • 1 ounce rice vinegar
    • 5 ounces mayonnaise (home made is best, the store stuff will do, but please, no “Miracle Whip”!)

    Whisk together all ingredients.

    For oysters

    • 7 Westcott Bay oysters
    • 1-1/2 cups jasmine tea leaves
    • 1 cup rice (doesn’t matter what kind)

    Method

    1. Place shucked oysters on a metal drying rack until a tacky skin forms (called a pellicle).
    2. Place jasmine tea and rice in an aluminum pie pan and mix thoroughly.
    3. Find the stoutest pan or pot in your kitchen, and place it on you stove over medium-high heat.
    4. Place pie pan with tea and rice into heated pan.
    5. When the contents of the pie pan start to smoke, place rack with oysters over top, and cover with a lid big enough to enclose everything.
    6. Cook oysters over smoking pan until lightly golden and firm.
    7. Serve on a bed of greens with Garlic Green Tea vinaigrette.

    –Chopper Dave

    smoked oysters

    Dine & Dish, the tardy frosh edition

    Thursday, July 28th, 2005

    Chalk it up to “Island Time;” our habit of posting on the wire, or in this case, a full two weeks late. We had every intention of completing our entry for Dine & Dish #3: The Freshman by Monday, July 11th, but a long weekend of hard labor (packing belongings and moving furniture) followed by two double-shift work days and a heap-load of general domestic catching-up got the better of us. After that, well, I suppose the dog’s explanation is as good as any.

    But, since we found such an appropriate candidate (first-time restaurant owner, brand new location, new, untested niche on this island), and since we snagged an inside look at the process for this Freshman venture, we couldn’t resist posting anyway. Tardy? You betcha. We’ll see you all after detention.

    Steps, outside

    Steps, just two months old on July 13th, is tucked into an alley half a block from the ferry line in downtown Friday Harbor. You wouldn’t know what to expect from the street; this isn’t one of those places that announces itself to the world with massive signage or gaudy architecture. A simple banner hangs above the door, and the alley-side footprint is as narrow as an office cubicle. All in all, this is a most unlikely place for a high-end restaurant.

    Inside, the first thing I always notice is the kitchen, exhibition style, brightly lit, and just a short walk from the door. The kitchen’s the focal point; your first glimpse of staff is as likely to be executive chef and owner Madden Surbaugh as it is a server or hostess.

    Madden in the kitchen

    To the left, a flight of stairs leads to a cozy second level with five tables, a row of balcony-rail bar stools, a server/barista station, and, along the west wall, wine, wine and more wine. I’m not surprised; Steps boasts one of the most extensive wine lists in the San Juans.

    The décor is modern (some might call it chic), the music an eclectic range of techno to Tom Waits, and the lighting — including a mirror ball and digital wall art that mixes movie footage with live shots piped in from the various tiny video cameras secreted around the joint — is decidedly urban, not at all like the typical Friday Harbor meal-on-a-deck or meal-with-a-view.

    the loft at Steps

    One thing’s for certain: two feet in the door and I am not in a small island town anymore.

    A restaurant should transport you somewhere, Madden told me when we stopped by for an interview early in July. Italian villa, British pub, seaside chowder house; it’s all about taking the patron on a journey.

    For Steps (and this is me, the patron talking), it’s all about leaving the small town and heading for the city. This isn’t Friday Harbor’s version of fine dining; this is Seattle, Portland, San Francisco. This is high-end chic and it’s not something we’ve seen here before. “I was looking to rock the boat a little,” Madden said, “to get out of the safety zone and see how things pay off.”

    Playing it safe would have been purchasing one of the several local restaurants for sale (we always seem to have at least two on the block), or starting another chowder house or moderately generic Mexican joint like the three we’ve got already. Not playing it safe? That’s starting from the ground up: new niche in an empty shell. More than empty, really. Last September, when the process began, this place lacked plumbing and floor drains, and the crew had to cut through sheet rock and steel beams to install the wiring.

    When I asked Madden about that part of the process, knowing that there had to be at least one festering bit of construction hell to endure, he immediately nodded at the floor. “We were supposed to open on April Fool’s Day,” he told us. Instead, difficulties with the flooring delayed the opening a month and a half.

    My guess is that the delay would not have been as long if this were a mainland venture, but when you’re dealing with Island Time and limited island resources, everything takes longer. The floor’s installation had to wait for a crew who could do it, and meanwhile, equipment, delivered to the island via ferry, had to sit at Friday Harbor Freight for a month. Not exactly a situation that keeps start-up costs down. It’s no wonder that most new restaurant ventures around here take over older restaurant spaces.

    But enough about that. (Insert chorus of impatient food bloggers screaming: what about the food??)

    While the ambiance transports patrons far from Friday Harbor, the menu is all about strong connections to the local farming community. San Juan Island is rich with family farms and Madden takes full advantage, buying 70 to 80% of his product locally, from fruits and vegetables to beef and lamb, pork and eggs. I asked about local seafood as well, but it turns out he has his flown in daily from Seattle, preferring the quality and selection he can get from his contacts there.

    One thing that stands out: the constantly changing menu. The actual menu — and here I can’t help but poke at the design a little; the text is laid out like a poem and for the life of me I can’t read it without putting in dramatic pauses — spells out Steps’ philosophy:

    “We work closely with local farmers
    to obtain the freshest ingredients
    - organic when possible
    - to let the natural flavors be the focus of the dishes.
    The catch of the day, or what the farmer brings in
    will inspire
    the chef in the creation
    of the daily menu.”

    A bonus of small scale daily deliveries and the ever changing menu? Hardly any waste. I missed the exact details (while I was furiously taking notes), but Madden pointed to one small trashcan under his station at the kitchen and indicated they only had to empty it once at the end of each night.

    As for the dishes themselves:

    “Our dining menu is a la carte,
    which simply means
    that we have many small plates – priced accordingly.
    This allows you to try a lot of different dishes.
    without breaking the bank
    while saving room for desserts
    which are all made in house.”

    Of course everyone’s going to have a different definition of “breaking the bank” so what’s priced accordingly to some might be a tad steep to others. Me, I’m a bit in the latter camp, but then I’m not what you’d call a high-end kind of gal. If I’m going to spend close to fifty bucks on a meal, I want something to take home and call “lunch” the next day.

    The menu’s divided into five sections: snacks (price range — on the day’s menu I snagged — $5-9), sides (priced $6-7), small plates and bowls (priced $11-13), large plates and bowls (priced $17-18), and sweets (priced $6-12)

    On the nights we’ve visited, we’ve enjoyed black bean falafel cakes, grilled scallops, and goat cheese stuffed pattipans, picking always from the snacks and sides categories (as our bank takes a little less effort to break than the average high-end diner’s).

    What’s stood out to me on our visits was the relative simplicity of each plate. Nothing we’ve eaten has had so many ingredients that we can’t pick out almost every individual component. This is not a place to go if you like complex, sauce-smothered dishes. This is more about tasting the squash, the scallop, the heirloom tomato. (And that’s the point, right? Why go nuts with buying local and organic, if the ingredients are lost in the chaos?)

    Our last visit included one snack, one side, a dessert (an extremely delicious flourless chocolate cake), one glass of wine (it didn’t take long for me to pick from the huge list: Writer’s Block Syrah. How can I resist that? It was quite good, too.), One beer (Boddington’s, one of Chopper’s faves), and we got out of there with a $47 bill (including tax & tip). It was a light meal, better suited to the later evening hours, when what you really want is to just sample and sip.

    As we concluded the interview (conducted during an afternoon prep as Madden and his sous chef stuffed squash blossoms), I asked the question everyone who’s ever considered starting a restaurant wants to know: What advice would you have for anyone crazy enough to do this? Madden easily listed off four points.

    First, “make sure you have a solid crew,” he said, “to take the stress off and allow you to focus on what’s needed.”

    Second, “find mentors.” No one should go into a venture like this without the support and advice of mentors who’ve done it all before. I’ve no doubt that Madden’s lengthy background (New England Culinary Institute plus years of work in the industry) provided him with excellent mentors to call upon.

    Third, “trust your instincts.” An interesting note about that: Madden told us he was advised to make cuts in his budget; compromises he didn’t really want to make. Turns out in the end, with additional expenses (the flooring delay, for one), the final budget ended up exactly as he’d first projected, pre-compromise. This confirmed to him that his initial instincts were right on target.

    And on that note, the fourth bit of advice: “stay true to your original vision.” “It’s easy,” he said, “to slip into the trying to please everyone state.” Patrons at new joints can gripe about the most insignificant details — the wall art is weird, the music too incongruous, and so on. At first Madden said he was tempted to listen. Now though, he’s more likely to remind himself of his original goals and brush off the commentary.

    Steps

    Steps is doing well right now, and Madden seems pleased with where he’s at. It’s tricky here, however, and though we wish him well and are impressed with his drive, focus, and infectious enthusiasm, the true test on this island is off-season; the winter months where tourists are scarce and locals tend to stick to their long-time favorites. Question is, will enough locals go a little stir-crazy and want to be transported to the big city in the dead of winter, or will they think I’m on an island, time for a beer and a bowl of chowder?

    We’ll be checking in with Steps down the road a little to see how things continue to play out. Will this Victoria Falls sized bungee-jump of a Freshman leap pay off? Check back in a few months and we’ll let you know.

    Steps is located on First Street in Friday Harbor, just across from the Pelindaba Lavender shop. Open 5:30pm, every day but Tuesday.
    www.stepswinebarandcafe.com

    IMBB#16: The well-armored egg

    Monday, June 27th, 2005

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    Eggs. Eggs?!? Any kind of eggs? Good lord, that’s like cutting me loose to write a lullaby and assigning the London Philharmonic as backup. The possibilities are endless. We could get seriously carried away, here.

    At least, that’s what I thought at first after reading this month’s IMBB theme announcement from Seattle Bon Vivant. I had visions, see. Visions of grandeur involving salmon roe floating atop a soft boiled quail egg, resting inside a hollowed out hard boiled duck egg. Egg inside egg inside egg. A veritable Russian nesting doll d’oeuf. It would be glorious.

    Then (our first trauma), Chopper Dave had to remind me that soft boiled egg yolks are slippery, and the salmon roe would probably glumph into oblivion two seconds after contact. Damn. So much for this week’s crazy idea.

    And then (a second trauma), we couldn’t find a single duck egg at this week’s farmer’s market.

    And then… Well, not exactly a trauma, but the simple fact that we had a huge box of regular old chicken eggs in the fridge and we really needed to be making some headway on them. (Huge sigh of disappointment. This could get boring.)

    So, on to plan B: We’d use just chicken eggs (and not even farm fresh eggs at that, alas), but we had to make something that would still feature the shape and the shell of the egg.

    Like single serving soufflés, served in the shell.

    Or, as Chopper dubbed it…

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    Ingredients

    • 3 Eggs
    • 2 Egg whites
    • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon thyme, minced
    • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, minced
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt
    • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 3 ounces goat cheese
    • Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
    • Carefully score egg shells and remove tops. Rinse and save top halves for garnish. Rinse and dry inside of lower halves, then drizzle with olive oil and rub to cover interior. Drop a pinch of kosher salt in each shell, making sure to evenly distribute throughout the surface. (This will help the soufflé grab onto the shell’s inner surface as it rises.)
    • Set shells upright into a muffin tin. (I used rice to keep them standing.)
    • Separate egg whites and yolks and place them in separate bowls. Add the whites from two more eggs to the three already collected.
    • Take three egg yolks and whip together with the goat cheese, herbs, salt, and pepper until fully combined and slightly fluffy.
    • Whip five egg whites until stiff peaks form.
    • Fold egg yolk mixture into whipped egg whites.
    • When fully combined, quickly pour mixture back into egg shells and place into 400 degree oven for 15 minutes.
    • filling the eggshells

    • Garnish with oregano, and place top portion of egg shell over the soufflé as a helmet.
    • Serve hot, before they fall.

    And, I might add, know what you’re going to serve them in. We didn’t at first, and when Chopper Dave pulled the muffin tin out of the oven and started talking about photographing quickly while the soufflés still had a bit of height, it suddenly hit me: We don’t own egg cups.

    I glanced around the kitchen in a panic, and a glint of copper caught my eye on an upper shelf. Well, he is calling it armor, after all, and armor is typically metallic, and those cups could look like they were made for eggs and not for Turkish coffee, right?

    Right. I mean, what’s another day in the Belly-Timber kitchen without the usual healthy dose of last minute improvisation?

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    Give me some sugar, baby! (SHF #9)

    Thursday, June 16th, 2005

    Blueberry Sky Tart

    Blueberry Sky Tart

    We don’t mean to, but we seem to be bouncing from event to event these days with barely time to think of just plain ol’ regular posts here on Belly-Timber. This horrendously busy week is no exception. I’ve got a few starts kicking around here somewhere, but the only thing we’ve time to finish is our entry for this month’s Sugar High Friday.

    I’m a bit clueless when it comes to tarts. Mention tarts, and I immediately think of something rectangular you pop into the toaster, or of something with high heels, sequins, and a half-guzzled bottle of Boones Farm Strawberry Hill. Maybe it’s my lack of tart pan in the kitchen, but then again, it could be the beeline I make for chocolate any time I’m near a dessert tray. Either way, tarts just aren’t on my usual culinary radar.

    So, I left the initial tart brainstorming entirely up to Chopper Dave and pondered mundane things, like would the local gourmet store have tart pans that don’t cost a bundle, and would this dessert be pretty, dammit?

    Turns out we didn’t need a tart pan. Chopper Dave’s been on this meringue kick, and it’s yet to end. This incarnation: Meringue tart crust.

    Our choice for fruit: blueberries. I had this brilliantly silly notion that we’d make the whole thing blue. Blue-tinted meringue, blueberries… (Okay, they’re purple, but hey, work with me here.) The idea: A cloud of blue meringue, and on top of the berries, another cloud, this one silver and puffy and all of spun sugar. On our trip to the grocery store, after I relented and agreed to expand the color palate, we found the final element for our firmament: Star fruit. The blueberry sky tart was ready for construction.

    Of course first we had to endure a few near disasters. Meringue, we learned the hard way, does not do well inside tart pans (yes, the local gourmet store had ‘em). Chopper’s second attempt worked much better: He baked a tart-sized meringue cookie, then just collapsed the middle to make a bowl for the fruit.

    Near disaster number two wasn’t so bad or so disastrous, but it did involve the discovery that one should be prepared for flying hot things when one is attempting to photograph spinning sugar. Also, one should keep the dog away.

    spinning sugar

    Two final key points of instruction:

    When placing spun sugar on top of blueberry filling, do wait till the filling has cooled or the spun sugar will be pretty for all of about three minutes.

    Also, it helps if you’ve charged your camera’s batteries in recent history.

    (Quick panic, then, spun sugar yanked off of hot berry filling, tart tossed in fridge, batteries thrown in charger, second cloud of spun sugar made and set aside. Wait, wait, wait, hope the day’s light doesn’t fade because photographing desserts at night sucks rocks, and one hour later…)

    Blueberry Sky Tart

    “You can eat this one,” Chopper Dave says, setting down a fork. “No dairy.”

    I check the playback feature on my camera, decide I’ve got some decent shots, then indulge myself in a bite of blueberry sky tart.

    One bite, and holy crap, they don’t call it Sugar High Friday for nothing. And here I thought last month’s Sweet Fleet was over the top. This one’s stratospheric. Chopper Dave puts it on a dessert menu? Dentists will picket.

    But hey, it’s pretty, and I’m all about pretty when it comes to desserts.

    Excuse me. I’m going to go brush my teeth now.

    Paper Chef #7: The Lamentable Dairy Edition

    Monday, June 6th, 2005

    the cat

    Day 6202.
    Dear Diary, Platelicker still torments me at every turn. I’ve taken to climbing the wisteria to the upstairs balcony and hiding for long hours at a time just to keep her annoying, wet nose far far from my person.

    And now, insult added to injury: My captors spent yesterday evening concocting a dish using buttermilk and eggs and heavy cream, and (despite my yammerish demands) they have not shared a single drop of it with me!

    Date and Salmonberry Parfait

    It began thusly: Friday morning, they read the ingredient list for this month’s Paper Chef on Tomatilla. I should note that I also read the ingredient list at this time, as I was curled up in front of my female captor’s computer, attempting to tip the tea mug over in hopes that she would buy a more ergonomic keyboard. (I could curl my body around the old one; this one is just so… flat.)

    The ingredient list:
    Medjool Dates (eh, too gooey for my aging teeth)
    Eggs (do they not realize how sleek and silky my coat looks after I’ve eaten a raw egg? Where, I ask you, where are my raw eggs? Don’t just feed them to me when you run out of cat food!)
    Honey (I’ll skip this one. Too reminiscent of that time I licked my female captor’s arm after she applied Ben Gay to a sports injury.)
    And, lastly,
    Buttermilk. (BUTTERMILK! A delectable blend of butter and milk. The best of all possible worlds. Oh, my scrumptious liquid of joy… feed me, feed me… WHAT? I don’t get ANY of the BUTTERMILK???)

    Yes, sad to say, I did not get any of the buttermilk. Nor the eggs, nor the heavy cream, nor the white chocolate (which I am certain I would love if they’d just give me a chance), nor even a nip of the rum.

    The rum, I should add, that prompted many murderous thoughts in my feline brain:

    redrum redrum redrum

    Redrum… Redrum….REDRUM!

    But, I digress.

    I’d hoped for a tasting opportunity when my male captor devoted himself to creating something that resembled a rather delicate and less noxious cow pie out of chocolate meringue, and my female captor left the confines of the house to pick salmonberries for the dessert’s garnish, but no. The parfait itself was snugly poured into a soup can and safely ensconced in the freezer (hah — in their desperation, my captors could not find a proper dessert mold and so this — their culinary pride and joy — will have telltale ridges! If given the chance I would scrawl “Friskees” on it with a fore-claw).

    salmonberries

    The kitchen counters were now bare. I could not even scour the floor for remnants of the process. Platelicker lurked at every turn. All I could do was wait.

    Minutes ticked by. Then an hour. At long last, my male captor removed the parfait from the can, and the two of them proceeded to ruin the monument of creamy goodness with silly garnishes of rum-soaked dates and salmonberries. I should note my one small victory: I managed to distract them long enough to forget the additional garnish of dark chocolate curls. Hah-HAH!

    Still, it looked quite impressive. I thought: This means something.

    Date and Salmonberry Parfait

    It means tasty goodness. It means a delectable blend of sweet date, tart berry, and cream, cream, luxurious cream, but what it did not mean was this: food for The Cat.

    No, agony and woe, my male captor devoured the dish in three minutes flat.

    And Platelicker got to lick the plate.

    I will, some day, exact my revenge. Just you wait. Next time they pull out the heavy cream and the buttermilk, I tell you this now in all secrecy: It’s hairball time.

    Date and Salmonberry Parfait

    To prepare dates:

    Take 6 whole medjool dates and cut into 1/2 inch slices. Place in hot sauté pan and immediately add 4 oz of rum. (if you don’t have a gas range use a match to light the rum on fire to burn off the alcohol.)

    For meringue:

    Take 4 egg whites and 3 oz sugar.

    Whip until egg whites are thickened and foamy.

    Add 3 more oz of sugar and a teaspoon cocoa powder, and whip until combined.

    Pour onto parchment lined sheet pan. Bake at 350 for 15 min or until meringues are stiff

    For parfait:

    Take four egg yolks and 1/2 cup sugar and whip over a double boiler until foamy and color changes to a light yellow. Quickly fold in 2 1/2 oz of melted white chocolate so it doesn’t lose its foamy texture. Add 1 tsp honey and set aside.

    Combine 1 1/2 cups heavy cream with 1/2 cup buttermilk and 1/2 cup sugar. Whip to stiff peaks.

    Fold egg yolk mixture into cream and buttermilk mixture and fill mold halfway. Add a layer of rum-cooked dates, then continue filling mold with parfait mixture.

    Place in freezer for at least one hour or until stiff.

    To finish:

    Remove from mold and place parfait on top of a disc of cocoa meringue. Garnish with more dates, dark chocolate curls, and salmonberries.

    End of the Month Eggs on Toast #7

    Wednesday, June 1st, 2005

    End of the Month Eggs on Toast

    The Limerick Edition

    First, the limerick:

    For this, our new culin’ry quest,
    We’ve cooked up some eggs, as you’ve guessed.
    We took bread for this vittle,
    And carved out the middle
    And behold, we’ve got Eggs in a Nest!

    eggs in a nest

    Next, a bit of bonus free-form poetry, ala Geisel, with a brief nod to our favorite food nerd:

    Eggs in a Nest, Eggs on a Hat, Toad in a Hole, (what’s up with that?)
    Eyehole Sandwiches, Hole in One, Eggs in a Basket are second to none!
    Secret Eggs, Egyptian Eggs, everyone begs for Gashouse Eggs!
    Add tomatoes, red and gory, you’ve got Eggs in Purgatory!
    The only constant is the bread, with a hole in the middle for the eggs to bed,
    So carve your bread and add your treats,
    Eggs in toast are sure good eats!

    eggs in a nest

    Next, a recipe:

    Eggs in a Nest ala Chopper

    serves 4

    nest waiting for eggs

    Ingredients

    • 4 slices of flavored bread (whatever flavor you like, but we used a garlic loaf)
    • 4 eggs
    • 2 oz smoked bacon, cut into lardons (thin slices)
    • 2 oz butter
    • Pinch of garlic salt
    • Pinch of paprika
    • Dried basil leaves
    • Fresh oregano
    • Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
    • Black truffle oil for garnish

    Method

    • Take bread slices and cut 1-1/2 inch holes in the center. Have eggs cracked and ready in a bowl.
    • Melt butter in a sauté pan over “medium-high” heat and wait for its water to evaporate (i.e. it stops foaming).
    • Add cut bacon and cook until the rendered fat makes a shallow pool in the pan.
    • Add cut bread and toast to golden brown on one side.
    • Turn bread over and pour eggs into the holes in the bread, one per slice. (Mrs. D sez, okay, clearly, from the photos, we cheated and made two slices with two holes each. What can I say? We were hungry!)
    • As eggs cook, sprinkle with paprika, garlic salt, and dried basil. Then add a liquid (in this case whisky!) and cover until steam cooks the whites over the yolks.
    • Reduce heat to “medium-low” and uncover. Allow to dry for two minutes
    • Plate, and garnish with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, black truffle oil, and a sprig of fresh oregano.

    eggs in a nest

    Bonus artsy photo of Chopper Dave at work:

    artsy Chopper

    And last, and most likely least, a bonus culinary “Nantucket” limerick which has nothing at all to do with eggs:

    A hungry young monk from Nantucket
    Was strolling the beach with his bucket.
    When far from his cloister,
    He cried, “Look! An Oyster!
    If I had a knife I could shuck it!”

    Is My Blog on a Sugar High?

    Thursday, May 19th, 2005

    Let’s get this out of the way first: We’re weird.

    Not only are we weird, but we are leaving for the weekend bright and early Friday morning. Now, one would think this departure would mean that we’d given up any hope of participating in either Sugar High Friday or Is My Blog Burning. Or, that at the most we’d pick one of these two events and leave it at that. But since we are, as we said, weird, we believe that instead of ignoring food blogging events when we’re pressed for time, we should embrace them. Both at once. With zeal.

    And with (yes, you’ve guessed it by now) weirdness.

    And so, with a cupful of grapefruit juice and a sea of aspic (ocean blue, of course), we christen the Sweet Fleet:

    Fear the Sweet Fleet!

    Puff pastry barquettes filled with grapefruit pastry cream, topped with white chocolate sails, on a sea of blue-tinted aspic with foamy wakes of egg white and a savory tropical island made of almond meal, oregano underbrush, and a palm of carrot trunk, green bell pepper fronds, and marzipan cocoanuts.

    (phew!)

    regatta de chocolat blanc

    Note for the more adventurous: We didn’t actually eat much of this. Which isn’t to say the barquettes weren’t good, they were just…well, a bit over-the-top.

    Other important safety tips (aka Chopper remembers why he hates marzipan…again.):

    1. Toothpicks and marzipan can only hold together a palm tree made of sliced vegetables for so long.

    the incredible leaning coconut

    (No, it didn’t fall over)

    2. When photographing a regatta of white chocolate sails under hot sunlight, move quickly.

    And lastly,
    3. Making pastry cream on an electric range sucks ass.

    incoming!

    For our next trick: A remake of Duran Duran’s Rio video with finger puppets!

    Monday update: The round-ups have been posted. To check out everyone’s great entries for Sugar High Friday, go here, and for Is My Blog Burning, go here.

    Paper Chef #6: Just Desserts?

    Monday, May 9th, 2005

    Duck leg confit with savory strawberry compote

    Sometimes comfort food has nothing at all to do with what we all think of as “comfort food” and everything to do with comforting ourselves in the kitchen by diving in, feet first, and immersing ourselves in the comfort of extravagant cooking.

    We cook to take our minds off the burdens we carry outside the kitchen. We cook so we can lose ourselves in the near-synesthetic experience of an extraordinary meal. We cook to discover the unexpected.

    Thus, with hard times upon us, we’ve taken on Paper Chef #6 with an added gusto that gave us a trio of luscious results.

    When our host Owen declared this “the first clearly dessert only Paper Chef,” we knew the gauntlet had been tossed. So, along with our one dessert, we invented two scrumptious savory dishes with the theme ingredients; strawberries, white chocolate, almond paste, and ricotta cheese.

    A couple of notes on ingredients: We already had a bag of frozen strawberries and opted not to buy the fresh out-of-state ones that had just appeared at our local market, as we believed them to be too early to have much flavor. Almond paste was not something we could find readily at our local market as well. All we could locate was marzipan (and Chopper hates marzipan), and so we pounded out our own paste, using slivered almonds, toasted, and our trusty mortar and pestle.

    toasting almonds

    Quinoa Crusted Prawns with Mole Fresa

    Quinoa Crusted Prawns with Mole Fresa

    (Chopper Dave uses his own suggested ingredient anyway.)

    Use 16/21 prawns with shells removed, but tail on. (Save shells for shrimp broth)

    Use standard breading procedure, using quinoa (both traditional and red) in the “crumb” stage.

    For Mole Fresa

    • 5 medium red jalepenos; roasted in 375 degree oven for 15-25 minutes, or until skin is dark and loose
    • 1/2 cup fresh strawberries
    • 4 medium cloves raw garlic
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1 ounce melted white chocolate
    • 1/2 teaspoon ricotta cheese
    • 1 teaspoon fresh cilantro

    Cut and de-seed chiles, then put solid ingredients into food processor & puree together.

    Stir in melted white chocolate & ricotta.

    For shrimp broth

    • 2 cups water
    • Juice of 1/4 lemon
    • 4 sprigs thyme
    • Shells from 10 16/21 prawns

    Simmer ingredients together until desired flavor is achieved, season with salt to taste.

    shrimp broth

    Thin mole puree to sauce consistency with shrimp broth.

    Garnish with fresh cilantro.

    Quinoa crusted shrimp

    Duck Leg Confit with savory Strawberry Compote

    For Duck Confit

    • 1 quart rendered duck fat
    • 1 cup water
    • Small handful of fennel fronds
    • Small handful of chives
    • Small handful of thyme
    • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 3 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

    Set duck fat to simmer.
    Drop herbs in.
    Add four duck legs.
    Simmer gently for 3 hours or until meat is fork tender.

    For Compote

    • 1 finely chopped red onion (cut small dice or brunoise)
    • 3/4 cup frozen strawberries
    • 1/3 medium-sized yellow bell pepper (also cut small dice or brunoise)
    • 2 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
    • 2 tablespoon white wine

    Reduce until nearly dry (au sec).

    Add

    • 1/4 teaspoon pepper (add as needed)
    • 1 teaspoon ricotta
    • 1/2 ounce white chocolate
    • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

    Serve on a bed of fresh chives (preferably with blossoms).

    Duck Leg Confit with savory Strawberry Compote

    Strawberry & Red Wine Granita

    • 1-1/2 cup frozen strawberries
    • 1 cup dry red wine
    • 2 cup water
    • 1/2 cup white sugar

    Thaw and puree strawberries.

    Mix all ingredients until sugar is dissolved, then put in freezer, fluff with a fork occasionally.

    Melt 2 oz of white chocolate and spread dollops on parchment.

    Refrigerate parchment and peel white chocolate wafers off later for garnish.

    strawberry granita

    For quenelle topping

    • 2 tablespoon ricotta
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1 teaspoon white sugar

    Mix these ingredients together, then form into quenelles and lay on top of granita servings.

    Add white chocolate wafers and a strawberry flower with leaves for garnish.

    Oh, by the way, everything tasted amazing. — miz D.

    strawberry granita

    Dine & Dish #1: Bar Fly

    Thursday, April 28th, 2005

    Barfly, you say? Cake. Our default setting is at the Bar.

    Front Street Ale House

    Front Street Ale House, our main default, sits just a block away from the ferry dock, overlooking the port of Friday Harbor. On the off season, it’s a great place to sit at the bar and jaw with the bartender (and the assistant brewer who’s there more often than not), and collect our all-the-time happy hour discount by wearing our “bar wear” — two quite stylish Front Street baseball caps. (The bar wear, I should note, extends to boxer shorts, though I couldn’t tell you if patrons are required to drop trou to get their discount.)

    Chopper has a tall one

    During the summer, Front Street (along the rest of the town) turns into a hopping, tourist-laden joint, and often times it’s hard to get a seat. It’s still April, but we’re starting to notice this already — packed tables and service that does the best it can to stay caught up.

    Though we do default to the bar itself, at our most recent visit we found the bar seats full up and picked a window instead. This allowed me to grab a few quick shots: the beer (which you can order in full liter mugs as well as pints) and the ferry dock, just across the street.

    The view from our table

    Had I been hungry (I’d just eaten at home) I would have ordered my usual favorite, the “Ass-kicking chili,” but I opted to sit this one out and instead spend the time admiring Chopper Dave’s choice of the day, Shepherd’s Pie.

    Shepherd's Pie

    Yes, the food is pub grub. Very good pub grub, with a touch of the English to it, but still, pub grub. On a line cook’s salary, what more can we ask for? It’s not like the guys slinging the Veal Osso Bucco can go out and eat Veal Osso Bucco on those pay checks.

    So, we default to pub grub. In part, also, because it’s comfort food and it’s a good excuse to drink the most(ly) excellent beer.

    Our pick for this trip: Moggy Mild — a traditional English mild with a deep, malty flavor and made with equal portions of Fuggle and Kent Golding hops. It’s not a hoppy beer by any stretch, but the hops are still present in the background, and it was refreshing enough to add to our regular repertoire.

    In fact most of the beers here aren’t all that hoppy. This could be a disappointment to me — my idea of the perfect beer is one that tastes like I’m sucking it through a vat of fresh-off-the-vine hop cones — but fortunately almost all of the beers brewed by San Juan Brewing have other assets that make them quite enjoyable.

    Like the Ale Diablo. It’s made with four kinds of peppers — Anaheim, Jalapeño, Serrano, and Habanero, and believe me, it makes you sweat. There’s nothing better around here on a hot summer day when you’ve just stepped in from a long day at the beach or on the boat.

    (Sheesh. Do I sound like a tourism brochure, or what?)

    The Ale House, which is right next door to the San Juan Brewing Company facility, typically carries at least six or seven originals on tap, and they rotate in new ones on a regular basis. Next up, for Cinco de Mayo: a Smoked Pepper Ale, and a Mexican Chocolate Ale. Mix the two together, so they say on the promo flyer, and you’ve got Molé Ale. That, I can’t wait to try!

    A side trip down memory lane

    Up on the wall, just past the bar, are posters and album covers of the Scottish folk group Battlefield Band. For several years in a row, in the late 90s, the Batties came to Friday Harbor to play sold out concerts at the local community theater. After each concert, they’d invite the crowd (yes, the whole crowd) down to the Front Street Ale House to join them in raising a few pints. Those of us who went had a grand old time, chatting music, beer, hearing touring tales, and pub stories from Scotland. In 1998 (I believe it was), on the Ferry to the mainland after their final show, the Batties’ fiddle player, John McCusker, pulled out his fiddle and wrote a gorgeously wistful little tune called “Leaving Friday Harbor.” Next year, they returned, played that tune, announced that it would be the title of their newest album, and then invited everyone down to Front Street to celebrate. Which, of course, we did.

    Front Street Ale House & San Juan Brewing Co.
    1 Front St
    Friday Harbor, Washington, 98250

    Typical passer-by at Front Street Ale House:
    A friendly dawg at Front Street

    IMBB #14: Cheetos!

    Sunday, April 24th, 2005

    the cheeto gourmet

    Just kidding.

    With all that’s been going on around here, it’s a wonder we had time for anything at all other than cheetos, and truthfully, we didn’t have the time. It’s just that I had such a loony notion of what I wanted to do for the Orange themed Is My Blog Burning, I insisted we make the time come hell or high water.

    Trouble is, my notion really was loony. As in (and I’m quoting Chopper Dave here) “This is a harebrained scheme and it’s not going to work.”

    But trouble with that is, I’m the Peter Quincy Taggart of harebrained schemes. You know, never give up, never surrender? That’s me.

    And this time (wonder of wonders), it paid off.

    pasta weaving, loom not required

    It all began with a pasta roller. That, and my fond memory of the year I turned Christmas into my own personal craft bazaar by decorating every object I could get my hands on with Fimo polymer clay. My favorite trick? Making checkered Fimo by running two colors through the pasta maker and weaving my Fimo fettuccine like a basket.

    And then it hit me: Why not do the same thing with two colors of pasta dough and make checkered ravioli! Better yet, why not do two shades of orange for IMBB #14!

    So, I pitched this harebrained scheme to the mister, and (shockingly) he agreed to try it. So off I went to the store for our best bet in the creation of orange pasta dough: Achiote paste. Meanwhile, Chopper Dave scoured the pantry for filling ideas and discovered a package of smoked salmon. Off to the market again for goat cheese and we’re halfway there.

    Well, except for that whole basket weaving thing.

    time consuming? Naaaah.

    See, with Fimo, it doesn’t matter if you end up with little holes between the checks of your checkerboard design. You just push the clay together as best you can and call it done. But, holes in ravioli? Bad idea.

    And that’s how the first attempt went horribly wrong. Holes, holes, everywhere.

    We figured it had something to do with the lack of water, or rather, the fact that I didn’t reapply water to the pasta as often as I should while weaving it, but by this point it was mid-afternoon and Chopper Dave was due at the restaurant in half an hour. Our excitement over the possibility of checkered ravioli vanished. We were deep into impossible harebrained scheme territory.

    Until I hit on the solution. Simply this: If one is making a lace dress and one doesn’t want it to be see-through, one gives it a lining.

    After all, no one’s going to notice that the inside of the ravioli isn’t checkered.

    So, I grabbed some more fettuccini, created another weave (this time with plenty of water), then rolled some of the leftover dough out into a thin sheet and placed it on top. I then trimmed all the edges and fed the whole kit and caboodle into the pasta roller.

    And — voila! — checkered ravioli!

    checkered ravs too pretty to eat

    Of course by this point, the chef (AKA, the only one around here who knows how to make a good sauce) was off at work, so alas, my presentation is sans sauce. No matter. It still tasted quite yummy, and why would I want to cover up all that labor-intensive basketweaving with a sauce?

    and they're orange too!

    Checkered Ravioli

    For the pasta dough

    Chopper Dave used Pasta Dough No. 2 on page 40 of The Pasta Bible by Silvio Rizzi et all, only he ditched the egg yolk and replaced it with the achiote paste and three tablespoons of olive oil. He used approximately one teaspoon of achiote paste for the light orange pasta, and two for the dark.

    The rest of the recipe calls for:

    • 1 cup finely ground semolina flour
    • 1 cup all-purpose flour
    • 2 eggs
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt

    ravioli filling

    The filling, another bit of improvisation today, included:

  • 6 ounces Goat Cheese
  • 6 ounces smoked salmon
  • Half a medium red bell pepper
  • 1 tablespoon fresh dill
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3/4 teaspoons white pepper
  • Our salmon was on the wet side, so Chopper thickened the filling with semolina four.

    It may be a while before I try this trick again, considering I spent 45 minutes making five ravs. Perhaps I’ll take it on next Halloween. Only that time, I’ll tint half the pasta dough with squid ink.

    checkered ravioli

    Side note: And with this post, we’re off for a few days, attending Chopper Dave’s formal graduation from culinary school. As soon as we’re able to get back to the computer, we’ll take on a few more harebrained schemes, we’ll visit the local pub, and we’ll ask the question, if it stings your hands, why the hell would you want to eat it?

    SHF #7: It Is The Rabbit!

    Friday, April 22nd, 2005

    molasses and white wine zabaglione

    Molasses & White Wine Zabaglione
    (with molasses brittle)

    (a recipe with detours)

    Molasses. Color me strange, but I really like the stuff. Maybe it’s those fond memories of home baked gingerbread cookies at Christmas time and me sneaking a spoonful straight from the bottle, or maybe it’s just the label with that grand old rabbit — that same rabbit, selling molasses for decades and way cooler than the Trix bunny.

    So here we are, our first Sugar High Friday, and it’s gooey-sticky molasses time. Thing is, it’s also damn hot for this time of year, so if we want a dessert, we don’t want something gooey-sticky, we want something refreshing. Something simple and elegant, but (here’s the catch), with the rabbit.

    And so was born Chopper Dave’s latest creation: Molasses and White Wine Zabaglione.

    To clarify, this isn’t your Italian grandmother’s zabaglione. This is a modified zabaglione. The classic version includes just three ingredients — egg yolks, sugar, and marsala wine — but we’ve added heavy cream and crème fraîche for two reasons: One, it reduces the labor and time involved so that the whole process takes no more than about 20 minutes. And two, it enhances the flavor and mouthfeel of the dessert.

    That is, Chopper Dave says it enhances the flavor and mouthfeel of the dessert. Me, I just rack up reason number three: It contains dairy products, meaning Mrs. D. can’t eat any, meaning more tasty goodness for the chef!

    Culinary School Detour:

    Sabajon (the French version) was the preferred dessert on student black box tests during Chopper Dave’s stint at school. This, because if its ease of preparation. Chopper Dave made a tart tatin instead and was under the impression that everyone else would be making chocolate mousse, but the instructors’ constant mantra of “everyone makes chocolate mousse on the black box” had worked and lured the vast majority of students away from the usual and straight toward sabajon.

    Molasses & White Wine Zabaglione

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 cup heavy cream
    • 1/2 cup crème fraîche
    • 4 egg yolks
    • 2 tablespoons white wine
    • 2 tablespoons molasses (we used Brer Rabbit Full Flavored molasses)
    • 1/2 cup sugar

    Method

    • Start by whipping the heavy cream and crème fraîche until stiff peaks form.
    • Set aside.
    • Beat egg yolks, wine, molasses, and sugar over a double boiler until pale and thick.
    • Geeky Science Quote Detour:

      “Egg yolks are also beaten in some culinary procedures, but because of their high fat content, and the fact that the yolk proteins are not easily surface denatured, they foam less effectively than the albumen. Zabaglione, a warm, richly frothy mixture of yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine, is the only well-known whipped yolk dish”
      On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, Harold McGee

      whipping the eggs

      Why We’re Not Purists Detour:

      We would have preferred an electric mixer (thus making this dessert take even less that 20 minutes to prepare), but, alas, we were stuck with an old egg beater. Purists, however, like the whisk, which is just fine if you don’t mind carpel-tunnel syndrome or a nasty case of bursitis.

      My mom got bursitis years ago from washing my diapers in the sink during a ten day storm and power outage. You think she’d ever use a whisk? Oh, wait, she hates to cook.

    • Add egg mixture to heavy cream/crème fraîche mixture. Fold till combined.

    Molasses Brittle (a garnish)

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 c water
    • 1 c sugar
    • 1 tbl butter
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbl molasses
    • 1 tsp apple cider vinegar

    Method

    • Boil all ingredients until brittle in cold water (hard crack stage)
    • Random Babbling Detour:

      In a perfect world we would cook the brittle with a candy thermometer and just wait till the temperature hit somewhere around 300 degrees Fahrenheit. But since we don’t have one, we cooked the old fashioned way, taking small dollops of the sugar mixture on a spoon and dropping them in cold water, working our way up through the six stages of sugar: Thread, soft-ball, firm-ball, hard-ball, anger, bargaining, depression, and so on. The key of course is to avoid the final stage of acceptance that you’ve overdone it and your sugar has indeed burned.

      Random Conversational Detour:

      Chopper Dave: This is the soft ball stage so I need to kick it up a notch.

      Mrs D: Oh, you really didn’t say that.

      (Mrs D. proceeds to write down what Chopper Dave has just said.)

      Chopper Dave: If this ends up on the blog, I won’t speak to you for a week. You have to stipulate I was joking. (adopting a Taco the Octopus demeanor) I won’t be compared to that silly “bam” fellow.

      (Mrs D. smiles and keeps writing.)

      brittle on the silpat

    • When the sugar mixture reaches the hard crack stage, pour it onto a silpat or parchment and let it cool, then break it into pieces of desired size for the zabaglione garnish.

    Makes up to 6 portions.

    The result: A zabaglione in which the molasses flavor is featured but not overpowering. You can’t help but know that it’s molasses, and yet it’s not at all heavy like one would expect from a typical molasses dessert.

    molasses and white wine zabaglione

    Diving in: Paper Chef #5

    Monday, April 4th, 2005

    cheese and tomatoes

    So it’s the day before we get Belly-Timber up and running when I spring the notion of Paper Chef on the cook. He’s all over it. He says, let’s dive in, feet first and make this our introduction to the food blogging world. (He’s a little crazy that way.)

    Before we even know what the ingredients are, he’s talking meatloaf. (This, because he’s been craving meatloaf for days.) I suggest that perhaps he should hold that thought — after all, if we’d been around last month, he would have made a pomegranate and chocolate meatloaf and… Well, actually he’d probably figure out a way to make that work, but even so, I felt it best to convince him that he should at least wait for the ingredients list.

    As soon as we see the list — goat cheese, sherry vinegar, prosciutto, green garlic — he’s talking pizza. For about five minutes. Then the brainstorm hits. A new creation, half quiche, half frittata. That’s it! We’ll make a Quittata!

    cutting board

    Now, on to the ingredients. First thing to mention, we’re on an island. What this means is we’ve got two supermarkets, and one tiny little gourmet shop. No butchers, no specialty ethnic groceries, and our farmer’s market doesn’t start till later this month. Fortunately, this first time out, our only stumbling block was the green garlic. So, because I was endlessly indecisive at the market, I opted for a trio of replacements: regular garlic, shallots, and green onions. The prosciutto, I should add, was packaged, because, well, that’s the only way we can get it here. Fortunately for us, a single 3 ounce package gave us just the amount we needed.

    Second thing to mention: the kitchen. We’re cooking in my parents’ kitchen these days, which means we’re in a kitchen designed by People Who Don’t Like To Cook. (Yes, they exist. Just ask my mom.) No worries. Improvisation and space management (of a space the size of a postage stamp) is what we’re all about these days.

    So, on with the recipe!

    Goat Cheese & Prosciutto Quittata with Sherry Gastrique

    For the Quittata:

    • 5 cloves garlic
    • 1 small shallot
    • 1 sheet of puff pastry (depending on size of pan — we used a cast iron skillet for our experiment)
    • Approximately 4 tomatoes; we used 1 Roma and 3 orange vine tomatoes
    • One dozen eggs
    • 3 ounces prosciutto, sliced very thin
    • Approximately 6 ounces of semi-soft goat cheese
    • 1 tablespoon Fresh thyme
    • Fresh basil
    • 1/4 cup (or so) of chopped green onion for garnish
    • Salt and pepper to taste
    • As needed for sautéing:
    • Olive oil
    • Butter

    For the Sherry Gastrique:

    • 1 cup cream sherry
    • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
    • 3 tablespoons sugar
    • Butter, as needed
    1. Cut puff pastry to shape of pan bottom.
    2. Place pastry on a sheet pan between two sheets of parchment, and cover with another pan. This prevents the pastry from puffing too high, and still allows for a flaky texture.
    3. Place pastry in the oven at 375F and set the timer for 5 minutes.
    4. Beat 6 eggs. Add 2 teaspoons of fresh thyme and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.v
    5. After timer goes off, remove the weight and top layer of parchment and bake two more minutes till pastry is slightly cooked.
    6. Peel garlic and slice. Slice tomatoes & shallots.
    7. Place puff pastry in baking pan. Smear sides of pan with butter.
    8. Sweat garlic & shallots in olive oil and butter. Lightly sauté, but DO NOT CARAMELIZE THEM.
    9. Fill pan with first six eggs. Lay in tomato slices (about 1/2 of them) and most of the goat cheese in medium-sized chunks.
    10. Lay strips of prosciutto on top, and try to make a good seal between first and second layer of eggs.
    11. Beat second six eggs. Add garlic and shallots, and 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, then pour over prosciutto.
    12. Lay remaining tomato slices in the eggs, and crumble in remaining goat cheese. Place basil leaves on top.
    13. uncooked quittata

    14. Bake in the oven at 375F.
    15. Set timer for 30 minutes and pour yourself a glass of sherry.
    16. Check after 30 minutes to make sure the center of the quittata is cooked. If the eggs are still soft, place pan back in oven and check every 10 minutes or so, until the eggs are cooked. (Our total bake time ended up at 45 minutes.)
    17. Remove from oven to cool a few minutes.

    finished quittata

    Meanwhile, prepare the gastrique

    Pour 1 cup sherry into a sauce pan and reduce by half.

    Simmer:

    • 3 tablespoons sugar
    • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
    1. Combine with sherry and reduce till slightly gelatinous. Mount with butter if needed, to mellow tartness.
    2. Cut quittata, drizzle gastrique on top and garnish with finely chopped green onions.

    Serves six to eight.

    another quittata shot

    The result:

    Chopper Dave sez:
    This recipe was actually remarkably simple to prepare and it had a very pleasing flavor. Basil and tomato always complement each other and the goat cheese went perfectly with that. The sauce on top of it added a sweet punch to the savory flavors of the herbs and prosciutto.

    Mrs D sez:
    Yum!
    This is like taking all the things that annoy me about quiches and frittatas, throwing them out the window, and creating a new dish that gives me the best of both worlds. One thing that worked very well: keeping the tomatoes, the goat cheese, and the garlic in larger slices. Instead of a scramble where everything blends together too much, each bite has a different flavor profile. In one bite I get a nice big slice of garlic. The next bite is mostly goat cheese. The next is all about basil and tomato.

    But it’s the lightness of the puff pastry and the zing of the sherry gastrique that knocks this one out the park. We’ll definitely be making this one again!