Archive for the ‘recipes’ Category

Eye of Newt, Blood of Pig: The black pudding variations

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007

black pudding

No, we’re not done with the pig’s blood just yet.

In fact, I’ve a feeling there could be 38 different dishes you can cook with Black Pudding. Thirty-eight at the very least.

Not that I plan on naming them all here.

In fact, I’ll just mention two or three.

First off: Chopper’s Lancashire Hotpot. He made this one on the Saturday after the black pudding was done and served it to unsuspecting guests. The guests were quite pleased and went back to the kitchen for seconds.

That Sunday morning, Chopper made a scramble with spinach, onion, more bits of black pudding, and the last remaining smidge of Lancashire Hotpot. It too was quite tasty, though it could have used something sweet to temper the spinach/onion/pig’s blood nexus.

Enter, apples. Inspired by denzylle’s comment on our Happy Entrails to You post, Chopper created a frittata wherein the black pudding mixed it up with tasty, crunchy bits of Granny Smith apple and the whole thing was topped with grated kasseri.

We declared it tasty and wolfed it down, thus ending Black Pudding Days at casa Belly Timber after only three dishes.

Only three? Surely there must be more!

Now, I’d offer up a challenge to see who can come up with the largest number of black pudding variations, but to be perfectly honest, after writing this post up I think I’m quite ready to move on from pig’s blood for at least a short while. So instead, because we’re never completely done with All Things British in these parts, and because we believe in extending all birthday celebrations at least a week and a half, your challenge (with a hat tip to Riba Rambles for the meme) is this:

Grab a pencil and paper and without looking at any resources, see if you can list all 38 (most commonly agreed upon) Shakespeare plays. And don’t give me any of that silly Francis Bacon really wrote them twaddle.

Mmm…. bacon.
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Mac-n-Cheese: The Final Frontier

Friday, January 5th, 2007

mac n' cheese, all goat

Prologue:
At first, I was horrified. Cookiecrumb and Kevin hosting a Mac-n-Cheese event? But I can’t! You don’t understand. I just can’t. I cried to Chopper: Look what they’re doing, I said. How cruel. How evil. Can I ever forgive them? If you make mac-n-cheesy goodness and eat it alone, can I ever forgive you? Chopper merely shrugged and said, hey, it’s me here. I can make it happen. I bit my lip in fear. But… the history, I whimpered… my history…

1.A cheesy childhood.
Oh dear lord did I love mac-n-cheese as a child. It wasn’t just that it was vast and goopy and satisfying beyond all reason, or that it sometimes held the exquisite secret of little salami nuggets, tucked beneath its placid surface. No, it was this: It lacked vegetables. And for a child, especially one in a house wherein vegetables were routinely cooked to oblivion, this was nirvana. I always went back for seconds. Sometimes even thirds or fourths. If the mac-n-cheese pot had been bottomless and my plate accompanied by an equally bottomless glass of Nestle’s Quick, I would never have left the table. Not even for episodes of Star Trek.

2.College in a box
When one is single and one is in college and living in a tiny apartment, one’s episodes of Star Trek are accompanied by a box. The blue kind. You know the one. Gross, eh? I bet Spock’s Plomeek soup never tasted so bad. Perhaps it was just the way I (ineptly) cooked it, but my Kraft mac-n-cheese always came out a little gritty. Not that this stopped me. Nope, not one bit. After all, it was cheap and easy and isn’t college all about cheap and easy? Hey! I’m talking about food, here.

3.Is that a shot put in my gut, or am I just sorry I ate you?
We’re on break from the gaming session, it’s been five weeks and still no one knows my red shirt security goon is really a Romulan spy. I love surgical alteration. Now, if only I could get some surgical alteration on my gut, I could make it through this cheesy meal without feeling like I’ve been injected with an elephant’s dose of cordrazine. What is up with this? I used to love mac-n-cheese and now I can barely touch the stuff. Could it be… no, say not so! It’s true. My gut hates cows.

4.Cold turkey (sandwiches)
Are you coming over for dinner, the in-law says, I’m making mac-n-cheese! I attempt to hide my sour face and fail miserably. Oh, right (now, she remembers), you can’t do cheese. There’s some cold turkey in the fridge! Dave can make you a sandwich! I try very hard not to pout, but I’m just not good at it. Oh, I’ve no doubt the sandwich will be just dandy. Heck, it may even have fancy Dijon mustard on it, but must I watch everyone else eat mac-n-cheese? Can’t I go downstairs to the family room instead? C’mon, Sci Fi Channel’s running a marathon, and I could be communing with Chekov and the space hippies right this very instant! Hey! You think they solved lactose intolerance in the 23rd century?

5.Nirvana, with goat.
So, if I’m going to make it, Chopper says, I’m going to make the creamy kind. Not that crusty stuff that ends up tasting like a rubber waffle. We’ll have to get kasseri, since we know it melts and we know you can eat it, and we’ll need something other than cow’s milk. Um, I say, just a wee bit optimistic for once, would you believe I saw a quart of goat’s milk in the health food section at Fred Meyer? No way! Way! We (boldly) go, we shop, we find. Chopper cooks. He serves me up a small but perfect portion (not too much on my first try in over a decade), and I take a bite. Simple, unadorned with frivolity save for a dash of smoked paprika and a sprig of fresh thyme. Creamy, just like Mom used to make. I am in nirvana. Hey, I think, I should eat this in front of the telly with the boys in gold, red, and blue. But, damn, SciFi channel never shows Trek episodes anymore. Ah well, that’s okay. I get to eat mac-n-cheese.

Goatie Mac-n-Cheese

Ingredients

  • 1 ounce Whole Butter
  • 1 ounce Unbleached white flour
  • 1/2 pound Kasseri cheese
  • 1 pint Goat milk
  • 1/2 pound Dry rigatoni
  • To taste Salt and white pepper

Method

  1. Cook the rigatoni until “al dente,” then strain and set aside.
  2. Melt butter in a medium-sized sauce pan. Add flour, mix thoroughly to make a roux, and cook until a “popcorn” aroma can be detected.
  3. Add milk and whisk until the roux is completely mixed in. Then bring to a boil, and quickly reduce to a simmer. Reduce by one quarter. Some milk will burn to the bottom of the pan, DO NOT WHISK BURNT MILK INTO THE SAUCE. (He really means this!)
  4. Add the cheese and stir until it is all melted.
  5. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce, stir to coat. Serve hot, garnish with a sprinkle of smoked paprika and fresh thyme leaves.

mac n' cheese with dog


Look! A Technorati tag!

Paper Chef Mystic #23: The Curse Defying Edition

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

painter's meal

It was the event that almost wasn’t. The event that re-emerged from the abyss, from the long lost annals of Gastroblogian history, stifled by photographic traumas, by the death cries of a computer far past its prime, and by the evils of a creature known only by the minacious name Blogger BETA.

The event, Paper Chef, mystic number 23.

The task: complete a dish using the following ingredients: cranberries, vermouth, a sparkling drink, and something wild.

The obstacles? A first gourmet meal in a kitchen half-unpacked. A photographic session in a studio cobbled together from end tables and random draperies. An unfamiliar camera, on brief loan. An ailing computer, resistant to all WinExplorational cooperation. And at the last, the evil BETA beast, chomping its way through the blogosphere, disrupting our illustrious host’s posting efforts.

Could we be cursed, we ask?

No. We refuse to believe it. And why? Because this meal was just too damned good.

gelee with a boing

It’s true, I confess it. We haven’t finished unpacking our kitchen. We’ve got reasons, many of which I’ll explain another day, but in brief, we’re still using our picnic basket plasticware, and we’ve no idea where we put our favorite can opener. Not that this will stop us.

It’s also true: Our camera is broken, my computer’s throwing tantrums (Lappy jealousy, I’m certain of it), and we’ve yet to figure out where we can set up a reasonable spot for food (or for that matter, craft) photos. Not that we’re deterred by this either, dang it all.

Nope. We’re determined. We’ve been away from our favorite food blogging event far too long. We’ve had too many months without proper kitchen access at all.

herbs, untended

And so, Paper Chef Weekend, we took to the store, and subsequently armed with a bag of cranberries, a bottle of sweet vermouth, and a glug of cheap champagne, we embarked upon our search for something wild. And cheap. Cheap is good. We’re on a scary budget these days. And with that in mind, first stop: the freezer and that chunk of wild Alaskan salmon we snagged from the in-laws while we were house sitting.

Second stop? The yard. Yard? Wild? Come again?

Trust me on this. The yard is wild. At least we haven’t had anything to do with it for our two years away, and since then? We chopped a few branches off the fig tree so the satellite dish would (ostensibly) work, but yes, the yard is wild. Weeds gone wild, herbs gone wild, and most of all, apple tree gone wild. As in, it’s been two years plus since it met a pair of pruning shears.

fallen

Result? Rosemary, sage, and thyme to gather by the bunch, and apples, apples, everywhere. Most of our apples hit the ground before we could get to them, but even so, we managed a partial harvest — enough for several treats, including this Paper Chef’s dessert.

A note about the apples. I believe they’re Granny Smiths, but in all honesty, I haven’t a clue. All I know is this: they are green, they are sour, they are crisp and they are damn good.

make-shift

Here’s our makeshift studio. It’s a tiny end table atop a coffee table, with a TV tray table to the side to hold the desk lamp. Both desk lamp and the bridge lamp above have full-spectrum daylight bulbs to help with the color balance, and behind the setup, I’ve got an old curtain rod and one of our freshly unpacked curtains, which I think might belong on a window around here somewhere. I’ll figure that one out someday soon.

After we’re settled in (ha ha, in our distant future), I’ll build my first true photo set-up. See, up on the island, we had a luxury — a luxury in summer at least — of an enormous bank of west-facing windows. We were in daylight heaven. Here, well… we’re in a bungalow, a tiny bungalow with tiny windows and tall trees. (My S.A.D. is sad, I tell you.) Photos in natural light will be a rare occurrence this time of year. Or, I should rephrase, considering the current condition of the camera: photos will be a rare occurrence this time of year.

But enough of that. On with the food!

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Chopper’s Lab: Menudo – not just a boy band!

Friday, September 8th, 2006

Menudo, not just a boy band...

Most people recoil in horror when they are told what the primary ingredient is in the classic Mexican breakfast dish menudo. No, it’s not Ricky Martin…

The first time I ever tried menudo was at a tiny Mexican cafe in San Diego back in the mid-nineties. My friends told me it was good, and having never heard of it before — I was rather young — I ordered it. Little did I know I was about to have a “Mikey” moment, where my friends were just seeing if I’d eat it. Well, I did, and I really liked it, especially the little tender chewy bits.

“What was that?” I asked my friends as they were about to burst into laughter…

no, really, it's tripe

That’s right, beef tripe. Stomach of cow. The funny part for me was that I didn’t mind.

Now, I’ve always been up for a good experiment, so why not try my hand at this culinary gem?

Menudo a la Chopper

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds Beef honeycomb tripe
  • 1 15 ounce can Yellow hominy
  • 4 Red jalapeños, seeded and diced
  • 2 teaspoons Coriander seed
  • 2 teaspoons Cumin seed
  • 1 teaspoon Cloves, whole
  • 1 bunch Cilantro, minced
  • 1 Pig’s foot
  • 2 quarts Chicken broth
  • To taste Salt & pepper

Method

  1. Toast spices in a small, dry pan and grind.
  2. Wash the tripe thoroughly with luke-warm water, then cut into one inch squares.
  3. In a pot, bring the broth to a boil and add cut tripe and pig’s foot. Cover tightly, and boil for 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
  4. Add hominy and jalapeños and continue to simmer for another half hour.
  5. Add spice blend, and half of the minced cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  6. Garnish with avocado slices, a crumbling of queso fresco, and a pinch of minced cilantro.
  7. Serve with warm corn tortillas.

I think I did it justice. It was spicy the way I like it, and the texture was just like I remember. It was good enough for Mrs. D to give it a try. In her words…

MizD sez:
First, let me get this out of the way: The tripe terrified me. I mean, look at it. It looks like industrial insulation gone horribly wrong. Or the famous lost hive of the Killer Sea Bees of the Great Barrier Reef. Something entirely inedible, at the very least.

Oh, and it stank. It stank for a rather long time. That “2 to 2 1/2 hours” up there in the directions? Figure on at least half of that time with windows open and fans on high. I can’t quite place the smell — I have to think back, as this dish was one of the last Chopper prepared up on the island — but I imagine it reminded me of the County Fair. And not in a good way.

But then… somewhere around three hours into the process, everything changed. I began to notice the spices, the chiles, the hominy, and at long last the kitchen smelled like dinner.

And I was hungry.

And I chowed down. And it was good. Tripetastically delicious. Indeed, I didn’t have to pretend the tripe wasn’t there, because once it’s cooked (or rather, once it’s been boiled to an inch of its freaky life), tripe is a tender thing that grabs onto it’s little spicy neighbors and makes them taste all the better.

Now, I’m told by various well-informed sources that menudo is the cure for a wicked hangover. We’ll have to keep that in mind, but it will require planning. As in: cook first, party later. I don’t think I need to tell you that boiling tripe while nursing a hangover is not an activity we intend on trying in this or any other lifetime.

A final note: Although we prepared and ate this dish several weeks ago, Chopper just passed the recipe along to me today. Nothing terribly surprising, there — we’ve been horrendously busy with the move — but in the recipe itself, you’ll note an item that I did not mention in my report above: Pig’s foot.

In fact, just an hour or so ago when I glanced at the recipe for the first time, I blinked, stared across our basement cave and said “WTF, PIG’S FOOT??” (Or words to that effect.) You see, I had absolutely no idea Chopper had slipped a pig’s foot into the brew. Truth is, he pulled it (or what was left of it) out before serving, but he tells me that the removal of the pig’s foot is entirely optional and up to the discretion of the menudo master at hand.

Thank you for that one, Chopper. One scary meat at a time.

Chopper sez: So, I’ll consider this experiment in Chopper’s lab a success. What’s next, you may ask… Just wait and see.

MizD sez: Braaaains, I tell you. Braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiins. (Hey, what can I say? We’re only seven and a half weeks from Halloween.)

La Festa al Fresco: A Farmers Market Bounty

Monday, September 4th, 2006

perfectly stuffed patty pan

We come bearing tasty gifts from the Portland Farmers Market!

Oh, yes I know, we’re last minute (yet again), but allow me to explain. See, Friday, we had every intention of participating in this month’s Paper Chef. We tossed ideas about — meat pies and paté for the most part — and briefly considered calling up an unsuspecting relative to take over their kitchen for a weekend afternoon (our current kitchen access being spotty, at best). But then, Saturday morning, everything changed.

Portland Farmers Market

Saturday morning, we went to the Portland Farmers Market.

And at the Portland Farmers Market, one is generally not lured in by such things as fermented black soy beans and giblets, two of this month’s Paper Chef foursome.

No, indeed. Instead, we heard the siren call of maitake mushrooms, patty pan squash, and glorious, fat leeks for a dollar a piece.

Mushroom Bounty at Portland Farmers Market

(Okay, so we didn’t exactly hear the call — the market is rather noisy and what with that odd band playing some sort of world beat, syncopated version of the 70′s disco hit “Ring My Bell,” well, the quiet voices of vegetables and fungi were completely drowned out. But boy did they look good!)

So we brought them home, stashed them away near last week’s Moreland Farmers Market purchase of Pale Blue Ewe from the Black Sheep Creamery in Southern Washington, and were promptly distracted by household and family issues.

Try some cheese!  Moreland Farmers Market

That is, until tonight when Chopper announced he was going to make goat cheese stuffed patty pans with crispy pan fried leeks and sautéed maitake mushrooms. (And, after a quick and boisterous exclamation of YUM, I scampered to the computer, double-checked the date and the rules and declared: Hey! This is perfect for Festa al Fresco!)

So, to Ivonne and Lis, I hope we’re not too late to join the party! Chopper finished our dish just as the sun lost itself behind the giant elms and maples to the west, but the hazy summer light lingered long enough for me to snap a few shots out on the porch railing of our current, temporary abode. Look! There’s even a tree in the background. Perfect for a picnic!

sauteed maitake temptation

Roasted, Stuffed Patty Pan Squash

Ingredients

  • 4 Patty Pan squash
  • 1/4 cup Black Sheep Creamery “Pale Blue Ewe” cheese, grated
  • 8 ounces Chevre, any flavor
  • 1/2 cup Panko
  • 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
  • 1 teaspoon Smoked paprika
  • 1 teaspoon Dried thyme leaves
  • 1/2 teaspoon Black pepper

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
  2. Take the squash and trim the blossom end in order to make a level platform for them to sit on. Then hollow out the top with a Parisian scoop (a.k.a melon-baller).
  3. Mash the chevre and the blue cheese together in a small bowl. When they are thoroughly combined, stuff the cheese blend into the hollowed out squashes, mounding it high.
  4. Combine panko, parmesan, paprika, thyme, and pepper in a bowl. Then coat the squash with oil and dip the cheese into the breading mixture.
  5. Place breaded squash onto a parchment-covered sheet pan and into the oven. Roast for 20-25 minutes.
  6. Serve with crispy, pan fried leeks, and sautéed maitake mushrooms.

Paper Chef 20: The Final Island Edition

Monday, August 7th, 2006

Paper Chef 20: Spicy Braised Short Ribs with Duelling Gastriques

This is our last Paper Chef in this house.

In two and a half weeks, we’ll be moving back to Portland after 20 months of camping out and caregiving on an island we only occasionally called home. I can’t say that we’ll miss this disastrously tiny and ill-equipped kitchen, but we will have fond memories of a few small miracles we were able to pull out of the chaos.

At long last, this Fall, we’ll be back in our own home sweet home and our own kitchen. Sure it’s in serious need of updating — the linoleum floor has divots you could hide a mouse in, the drawer faces have a habit of falling off at inconvenient times, and there’s no dishwasher — but it’s ours, ALL ours, and that’s what counts!

But, because we’re here and because it’s Paper Chef time once again, we had to create just one last bit of chaos before we ramble on, and this time we had a grand bit of help from the annals of Paper Chef history and our bloggy neighbors from Down Under.

This month’s ingredients? Peaches, cherries, something hot & spicy, and a “new herb.” Now, by “new,” our Paper Chef host, Owen (welcome back, Owen!) means something we’ve not tried before. Not an easy command for Chopper to follow, as he’s used just about every herb on the island and then some.

But wait! What about that scrumptious and heady prize we received from Noodle Cook for Paper Chef 13? Aussie herbs and spices, the likes of which we’d never seen before? Perfect!

For this challenge we bent the rules a tiny bit to include spices (though by strict definition, two out of our three selections are ground leaves and should be considered herbs) and chose one for each of Chopper’s dishes. For his Tandoori Style Chicken with Stone Fruit Chutney, Chopper used Mountain Pepper Leaf, for the Chile Rellenos with Stone Fruit Salsa, Lemon Myrtle, and for the Spicy Braised Short Ribs with Dueling Gastriques, Wattle Seed. All three of these spices came from the Oz Tukka “A Taste of Australia” gift pack, part of our wonderful gift from Noodle Cook and his fellow Paper Chef 13 judges.

The gift pack includes five spices (ours has Mountain Pepper Berries and Bush Tomatoes in addition to the three we used for this adventure), and a helpful flyer with spice information on one side and recipes on the other. Not that Chopper used any of those recipes. For him it’s all about sample and invent first, read what others do later.

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The Spice is Right: Salmon Ceviche

Saturday, July 15th, 2006

Salmon Ceviche

Finally!

For the past three months we’ve had a hankering in the worst way to participate in Barbara’s The Spice is Right over at Tigers and Strawberries, and for the past three months, our cooking schedule (such as it is) has failed us. But not this time! Not when chiles are on the menu and Chopper’s in the kitchen.

This month’s theme, It’s Too Darned Hot, brings to mind a myriad of tongue-burning dishes, but our inspiration comes from the cold waters of the North. Copper River, Alaska, to be exact, and that slab of salmon at the local market that was just too darned good of a deal to pass up.

But what to make with salmon and chiles — especially when the goal is to feature the chiles? Something cold for our hot summer weather, perhaps? Something with an extra chile kick to make cooling off all the better?

Ah, that’s it. Skip the oven altogether and make ceviche.

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Piggy Goes to War

Wednesday, July 12th, 2006

(In our so-tardy-it-shouldn’t-count second entry for Paper Chef, we stick close to home for our tale of Independence. How close to home? Oh, about 400 yards up the road. And as for that tardy thing — what was it the late, great Douglas Adams once said? Oh yes: “I love deadlines. I love the whooshing noise they make as they go by.” Words to live by.)

Belly Timber Presents The Pig War

So, Independence Day, yet again.

You probably thought we Yanks were done with those pesky Brits back in 1776. Wrong. ‘Round these parts, sovereignty didn’t get settled till almost a hundred years later. We blame the pig.

The roots of our story can be traced back to Article III of the Treaty of 1818: the joint occupation of Oregon Country by the United States and Great Britain. How the treaty signers thought two countries vying for land claims and navigation rights would resolve any boundary issues is anyone’s guess, but nevertheless, the increasingly tumultuous Oregon Country free-for-all continued for 28 years, until, in 1846, the two sides determined they’d had enough. They signed the Oregon Treaty on June 15th, set the border between the US and Canada at the 49th Parallel (excepting lower Vancouver Island), and that was that.

Or so they thought.

Trouble is, the folks signing the treaty were, to put it bluntly, cartographically inept. The border between Canada’s Vancouver Island and the US mainland, they said, should lie down the middle of the “major channel” through the islands. Easy to say if there’s one major channel.

Not so easy if there are two.

And not at all easy if both Yanks and Brits are enjoying the resources of the group of islands that lie in the middle.

And so, while politicians squabbled over maps and over which strait was “major” — Haro to the west or Rosario to the east — settlers arrived from other parts of the continent and soon American “squatters” (as the British preferred to call them), had laid claim to land just a stone’s throw from the sheep runs of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s Belle Vue Farm at the southern end of San Juan Island.

And for the most part, the sheep ran along their runs, and the handful of Americans eked out a living on their tiny parcels of land (which the British insisted were most decidedly not theirs), and all was, if not calm, at least not explosively tense.

Until the pig entered the picture.

For sheep will trot right past a farmer’s potato patch, even if there’s nothing much for fencing in their way, but pigs, or more specifically Berkshire boars? They’re born for rooting, and when they sense potatoes, they have at it.

And having at it was just what one particular Hudson’s Bay Company pig was doing in Lyman Cutlar’s potato patch on the morning of June 15th, 1859. And Cutlar had had enough. He grabbed his rifle and shot it.

Charles Griffin, Belle Vue Farm’s manager, was not pleased in the least. He demanded exorbitant compensation. Cutlar, being an obstinate sort, refused. Griffin, being equally obstinate, demanded Cutlar’s arrest. A blink of an eye later, the American settlers on San Juan Island (all 18 of them or so) had armed themselves and were demanding military protection.

In July, the first American soldiers arrived. In August, British war ships. By the end of the summer, the count was Americans: 461, British 2,140, and — most happily for all involved — not a single casualty of war.

Except, of course, for the pig.

This peaceful standoff — so peaceful that troops from both sides celebrated holidays together and held sporting events on the prairie at American Camp — continued for 13 years. In November of 1872, the Royal Marines withdrew from English Camp at the north end of the island, not because they’d been defeated in battle, or even because the Crown had called it quits. No, in fact, the American and British governments did what governments do so well in border disputes such as this: they passed the buck. They turned to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany and said, excuse me, could you figure this one out for us?

And, after a year of meetings by his three-man commission in Geneva, Kaiser Wilhelm did just that, and ruled in favor of the United States.


These days, the Pig War is serious business. We’ve got our two National Parks, the 4th of July Pig War Barbecue, the Pig War Museum, Encampment, over a dozen books about the subject, and no doubt a good forty other things I’ve forgotten. Truly, there’s a bit of a porcine glut in these parts.

Even so, when it came time to commemorate Independence Day (or rather the San Juan Island version with all its local piggy trappings) we couldn’t resist adding our own culinary homage to the mix. And, because we are (as I mentioned in the intro) only 400 yards from where this all happened, I took said homage on a field trip.

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Paper Chef #19: Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Monday, July 10th, 2006

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Paper Chef, July Independence Edition

The ingredients

  • Corn
  • Ground Coriander
  • Pine Nuts
  • And (from Kevin at Seriously Good): The wild card for this event is Independence Day. Whether you’re American, Ethiopian, Chilean, or Thai, create a recipe that celebrates your nation’s emancipation from its previous rulers or form of government or whatever other thing celebrated to honor nationhood.

So, because we’re contrary sorts, we’ve got two entries into this month’s Paper Chef and neither of them have anything to do with July 4th.

Oh sure, we had a billion Independence Day ideas: Grit Cakes with Boston Harbor Tea (pre-dumping, of course), Firecracker Popcorn, The Most Frightening Apple Pie Ever, Pine Nut and Coriander Encrusted Corn Dogs, but truthfully, I think the onslaught of holiday tourists to our tiny island was just too much for us to bear, and by midweek we were ready to step out into the middle of Spring Street with a bull horn and direct all traffic off the docks and into the harbor.

In short, we are over the whole 4th of July celebration thing. So very, very over it.

So, for our first entry, we declare ourselves Citizens of the World (or at least of North America), and as such we are celebrating El Grito de Independencia, Mexican Independence Day.

Which is not, some may be surprised to learn, Cinco de Mayo!

El Grito de Independencia (the cry of independence) is a festival that begins on the night of September 16th with a reenactment by Mexico’s current president of the famous Grito de Dolores of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the priest who, in 1810, changed the course of Mexican history with a ring of his village church bell and a cry to his countrymen to rise up against Spanish rule. And though Hildalgo himself was captured and executed in 1811, the fight for independence continued and was eventually won in February of 1821.

Now, Chopper’s the lucky one. He’s been to Mexico, eaten the fabulous food (and no doubt consumed more tequila than he’d care to tell me). Someday soon, he hopes to return and bring me with him and we’ll take the tour, Rick Bayless style.

Meanwhile, for our El Grito de Independencia Paper Chef entry, we’ve got a list of Mexican ingredients a mile long, all worthy of the number 4 spot on our Paper Chef ingredient list, but in the spirit of competition, I’m going to pick the one that makes this Chopper invention unique: Nopales — prickly pear cactus pads.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

For the masa

  • 2 cups Masa Harina
  • 3 cups Home made chicken stock, slightly warmed
  • 1/2 cup Pine nuts, raw
  • 1 teaspoon Salt

Method

  1. Place masa harina in a large mixing bowl.
  2. Grind pine nuts in a food processor or mortar and pestle and add to the masa.
  3. Add stock and salt to the bowl, and mix thoroughly.
  4. Allow bowl to sit for about five minutes, or until the masa is a very soft dough.

For the filling

  • 2 pounds Turkey hindquarter meat, roughly cubed
  • 3 cups Home made chicken stock
  • 2 2/3 tablespoons, Coriander seed, toasted
  • 1 tablespoon Cumin seed, toasted
  • 5 Chipotles marinated in adobo sauce
  • To taste Salt and pepper

Method

  1. Puree the chipotles and grind the toasted spices in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.
  2. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium high heat and add enough oil to coat the bottom.
  3. Add the turkey and brown evenly.
  4. Add the stock to the pan and bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer.
  5. Add the chipotles and ground spices and cover tightly.
  6. Cook for 30-35 minutes or until turkey is fork tender, then remove the top and reduce away the liquid.
  7. Season with salt and pepper.

For the salsa

  • 3 Medium tomatoes, diced small
  • 1/2 Sweet onion, diced small
  • 3 Serrano chiles, diced small
  • 1 bunch Fresh cilantro, minced
  • 2 Limes, juiced
  • To taste Salt and pepper

Method

  1. Combine ingredients in a non-reactive (i.e. non metal) bowl, and season with salt and pepper.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

To assemble

  1. Preheat and oven to 375 F.
  2. Carefully split open eight nopales along their length and fill with a “pocket” of the masa.
  3. Place a layer of the turkey filling into the “pocket,” then cover with another layer of masa.
  4. Place the tamales in a roasting pan and coat with oil.
  5. Place pan in the oven and roast for 20-30 minutes or until the masa turns golden brown and crunchy.
  6. Serve with refried black beans, a generous crumbling of queso fresco, and a huge spoonful of salsa.

Tamales de Guajolote en Nopales

What I love most about Chopper’s exploration of Mexican cuisine is the closer and closer he gets to the authentic, the further and further he moves from the horrid, cheese-laden Americanized crap we find at so many poor excuses for Mexican restaurants in these parts. Not that he ever cooked horrid, cheese-laden crap, mind you. I think of it more as an ongoing discovery on my part of just how good Mexican food can be. And, I should add, how good it can be for my poor, lactose-intolerant digestion! Swap out the quesa fresca with a little goat cheese and I’m set. Can’t get that sort of goodness at Chevy’s!

(In just a bit, I’ll post our second contribution to this month’s Paper Chef. It is, I promise, quite scholarly and historical in nature and entirely lacking in silly content involving a meal dressed as a pig. Okay, I lied about that last part.)

Chopper, Beach Gourmet

Wednesday, July 5th, 2006

And now, the celebration post, in which Chopper Dave explains the glorious meal he presented for Mrs D on the occasion of their second anniversary. Alas, no maid outfits, no cotton candy, just fine cooking under a crescent moon on the rocky western shore of San Juan.

Salmon, mango salsa, saffron rice pilaf

As most of you are aware, it was Mrs D’s and my two year anniversary back on Monday, and both she and I had work-related problems with celebrating on the actual date. We did however get a plethora of great suggestions on what to do with our special day (well, except for the whole maid outfit thing).

I decided that I needed to do something very special on Wednesday to make up for our lack of ability to celebrate on the proper date. First, I knew that I had to get Mrs D to the beach, and second, I absolutely had to cook a knock-her-socks-off meal.

These things came together beautifully when I remembered that we had brought up our propane-fueled camp stove and our wonderfully decked-out picnic basket. Soon the ideas for the food started to emerge. I needed at least three courses, and I knew that Mrs D absolutely adores fish, or more appropriately, anything that lives in and/or breathes water. First I thought about halibut, but then I remembered that we had a gorgeous chunk of salmon brought to us by our good friend, Farhad (long time readers might remember him from our post about the potlatch last year). I found it right where I left it in the freezer.

Alaskan King Salmon

MizD sez: I was wondering when the heck Chopper was going to cook that salmon. It’s been taunting me for months now. Of course I had a hunch about it on Monday when Chopper called from work and I mentioned my sister (visiting from Portland) was cooking salmon for dinner. Chopper was crestfallen. So much so, that I suspected something was up. I had to reassure him that I would indeed be quite happy to eat salmon more than once a week. Come to think of it, more than seven times a week would be perfectly fine with me.

Then I did some more scouring of the fridge and came up with a half-gallon of home-made brown chicken stock, half a bottle of cheap white wine, a log of herb and roasted garlic compound butter, half a Walla Walla sweet onion, some Roma tomatoes, and the piece de resistance, three perfectly ripe mangoes. Next, it was off to the pantry where I found our customary jasmine rice as well as a small bag of wild rice, a bottle of sherry vinegar (left from our very first post… a paper chef entry), a couple heads of garlic, and one last shallot.

The idea solidified, and while Mrs. D was off at work, I went into action.

I drove out to Wescott Bay Sea Farms and picked up a mixed bag of their world famous mussels and clams. Then I was off to our local market to get the last few things: some organic mixed baby greens, a loaf of artisan bread, one bunch of cilantro, a bunch of scallions, and a small pack of sliced almonds.

And what did I come up with?

A lovely three course dinner served in the picturesque environs of San Juan Island’s South Beach.

just past sunset

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Vodka Watermelon Canada Day Sorbet

Saturday, July 1st, 2006

Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup

Our tiny kitchen in this home away from home of ours is rife with tragedies (don’t get me started on this week’s flood), but during the hottest of summer days, perhaps our greatest sadness comes not from the kitchen itself but from our lack of an ice cream maker. True, ice cream with actual cream in it is an evil that must be avoided by Mrs D’s tummy at all costs, but what of sorbets? Soy gelatos? Frozen yogurts? Must I debase myself by buying hideous supermarket products, laden with high fructose corn syrup? No! I won’t have it!

And so, because I long for the real thing, and because Chopper makes it so well, I must sneak off to his place of work every so often and sample his latest concoction.

Last time (back on Chopper Day) it was rum raisin ice cream and my tummy only allowed me the tiniest of bites.

But this time… ah, this time: Sorbet! And not just any sorbet, but the perfect holiday weekend treat of Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup! Oh, hell yum. There’s nothing… nothing at all like homemade sorbet with real fruit, not to mention a good top shelf vodka. It’s not sticky. It’s not cloyingly sweet. It’s just the perfect frozen cocktail refreshment for a warm summer evening.

Vodka Watermelon Sorbet in a tuile cup

I dropped by Chopper’s work last night to snag a few photos (and devour this tasty treat) just in time for the Canada Day Ice Cream Event over at sweet pleasure : plaisir sucré.

(Okay, so Sam at sweet pleasure : plaisir sucré didn’t actually call it a Canada Day event, but since he’s from Canada and since I am always happy to proudly wave my maple leaf of dual citizenship, I say it’s a Canada Day event! (Which probably means Chopper should have made something strictly Canadian for his sorbet, eh? Ah well, watermelon vodka will have to do. And do quite nicely, thank you very much!)

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Paper Chef #17: Tapas! Tapas! Tapas!

Monday, May 8th, 2006

Spicy Paper Chef Clams

Not so long ago, I ducked back into our archives to take a peek at the very first comments left on our infant blog, just over a year ago. Turns out, comment #1 was left by Jen of Life Begins at 30, comment #2 by Kevin of Seriously Good, and comment #3 by Owen of Tomatilla!.

How appropriate is that?

See, here we are, launching into the first Paper Chef since our one year Blogiversary, and not only is Kevin hosting (while Owen takes a much-deserved break), but this month’s theme includes local ingredients, in solidarity with the Eat Local Challenge, organized by Jen! It’s The Circle of Knife Life, Paper Chef style!

Now, some of our more observant readers (okay, okay, everyone) will notice that we haven’t been posting much lately. It’s spring fever, I tell you. It’s going around. The garden calls my name, the pooch begs for serious ball time; who am I to ditch that in favor of slouching at the computer?

But, when Chopper read this month’s ingredients and went on an immediate culinary brainstorm binge, I knew my time away had to end. Chopper cooks and I must blog.

And boy oh boy did he cook this time. Seriously. This food is so damn tasty, I want to head to the kitchen for seconds, thirds, and fourths before I type up another paragraph.

Hang on. Just a sec…

Inside the Empanada

Okay, back.

(Dusts crumbs off keyboard.)

Now, where was I?

Ah yes, the ingredients. For this month, Kevin used his fine scientific skills in Haberdasherdivination to produce these pleasing results:

Lavender
Miso
Chickpeas
Something local

And Chopper, because he loves this style of food (and no, not because we’re trendy, dammit! We’re NOT trendy!), immediately announced his decision to produce a four course tapas extravaganza, with a different local ingredient for each course.

For our local ingredients, we hit three places: the Farmers’ Market, Westcott Bay Sea Farms, and, er, our freezer.

Now, here’s the thing about eating local on the island in May: There’s not a heck of a lot available. The San Juan Island Farmers’ Market (in its weekly, outdoor incarnation) has only been running two weeks now, and at last Saturday’s visit, I counted a grand total of 15 stalls, only three of which were actually selling produce. This time of year, local produce means greens, greens, and more greens, with the occasional baby root vegetable thrown in. Lucky for us, greens at the Farmers’ Market are surprisingly cheap — especially compared to later season vegetables (and to the scary-expensive $6.99/lb bucket of “organic mixed greens” at the grocer’s).

Baby turnips and sorrel

In our short jaunt along the thoroughfare (I’d say main thoroughfare, but at this market, there’s only one thoroughfare), we scored green garlic from Blue Moon Produce, and sorrel and a lovely bunch of baby turnips with greens attached from Thousand Flower Farm. (Total cost for the three bunches: $5.50) Both of these farms are located on Waldron Island, a remote island northwest of Orcas that’s known for its amazing produce. (For a great chapter on the farmers of Waldron, I highly recommend Greg Atkinson’s book In Season: Culinary Adventures of a San Juan Chef.)

Next, it was off to Westcott Bay Sea Farms for clams, because as far as Chopper is concerned a tapas spread just isn’t a tapas spread without clams.

Westcott bay clams

Lastly, we took a trip to our freezer where, among all the other oddities that deny us room for ice cubes, Chopper had stashed a pair of lamb’s kidneys. Yes, local lamb’s kidneys. These particular kidneys came from last year’s farmer’s market and from Local Island Meats, a stand run by the fine folks at Z Lazy J Farm & Feed, which is located just a few miles up the road from us. Chopper had been saving them for steak and kidney pie, but this weekend, they just screamed empanada filling.

Now, how close to home did we find these goodies?

Well, inspired by Tana’s Chefs & Farms map over at Small Farms, I’ve launched Island Local, a map for San Juan County growers and producers of culinary products. So far, I’ve just marked the locations listed above, but I’ll be adding more in the weeks to come. (Now, if I can just get Platial to recognize all these wacky island addresses…)

In case you’re wondering, Casa Belly Timber is just south of the map’s visible area, right below the ©2006.

A quick word about our other ingredients:

We discovered, though it wasn’t much of a shock, that neither of the two grocers on the island carry dried chickpeas, so all of our dishes were made with the canned variety. The miso was from a container of shiro miso paste already in our fridge, lucky for us.

Our attempt to use local lavender in addition to our other local ingredients was thwarted by two things: our own tiny lavender plant that’s not even close to blooming, and the exorbitant price the local lavender farm charges for their culinary lavender. Don’t get me wrong, there are many things I love about the lavender farm, especially in mid-July when the fields are all in bloom, but nine bucks for a container the size of a tin of shoe polish? That’s not one of ‘em. So, our lavender came from an herb and spice distributor and I haven’t the foggiest idea where it’s grown.

Chopper made all four of these dishes at once so we could have a true tapas spread (and I could go a little nuts with the photography). I garnished everything with herbs from our garden, quickly snapped away, and then we dug in. And oh, was it good.

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Fusing the Wild Vindaloo

Thursday, March 30th, 2006

Lamb Vindaloo

“Of course! Lager! The only thing that can kill a Vindaloo!”
Dave Lister, Red Dwarf

We can’t help it. Someone mentions Indian food, and soon enough someone mentions vindaloo, and the next thing you know, we’re off on tangents involving curry monsters from outer space. Silly DNA modifiers, acting up again.

But, where the vindaloo mutations on board the good ship Red Dwarf are quite dangerous and must be dealt with (Leopard Lager into the beast’s maw generally does the trick), here on Earth, and at Casa Belly Timber, we find the notion of vindaloo mutations quite intriguing and potentially delicious.

And so, even though we’ve been horrifically busy of late, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to join this month’s From my Rasoi event over at Meena’s Hooked on Heat, and create a bit of Indian fusion of our own.

This month’s theme: Pick a favorite international dish and give it an Indian flavor. Now we mulled this over a bit, pondering pasta, contemplating enchiladas, but in the end we agreed that there was nothing we wanted to do more than tame a wild vindaloo and turn it into the perfect Red Dwarf party food, because if a bunch of scifi geeks like us are going to get together to watch episodes of our favorite British science fiction comedy, the last thing we should do is order our pizza from Domino’s.

Lamb Vindaloo Naanizza

That’s right, pizza! Delicious, steeped in the flavors of India, lamb vindaloo pizza. Or, as Chopper calls it, because he just can’t help himself…

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Healthy, Schmelthy

Friday, March 24th, 2006

Now don’t get me wrong, we love our local pub. They brew great beer, their Manhattan chowder is a godsend for my tragically lactose intolerant tummy, and on St. Paddy’s day, they served Chopper one hell of a mean steak and kidney pie.

But, sometimes we long for the Horse Brass, that brilliant British pub on Portland’s eastside. It’s not the darts we miss so much, or that crazy Randall hopper they’ve got hooked up like a hooka at the bar.

It’s not even the bangers and mash.

No, it’s the most horrific, fattening, demonic temptation on the menu we miss: the Scotch egg.

Scotch eggs

Imagine if you will, a hard boiled egg (and already you’ve got some dietician’s voice in your ear, yammering away about bad cholesterol).

Now imagine covering the egg in a layer of deep fried sausage.

Yes, Scotch eggs are that evil.

And they’re that tasty.

So tasty, that Chopper figured out how to make ‘em at home. Now all we need is a dart board, about thirty beers on tap, a way to keep out the zombies, and we’d never leave the house.

Billiards, anyone?

Chopper’s Scotch Eggs

makes six

For the sausage

  • 2 pounds ground pork butt
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons fresh sage, minced
  • 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, minced
  • 1 bulb fresh garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients together thoroughly with your fingertips and set aside.

For the Scotch eggs

  • 6 hard cooked large eggs, peeled
  • Flour, beaten egg, and panko for breading

Method

Have a deep pan or wok of oil ready at 350 F ready for frying.

Divide sausage into 5 ounce portions and mold each portion evenly around an egg. This will make an orb roughly the size of a tennis ball.

Bread each one using the flour, beaten egg, and panko.

Place three at a time into the hot oil and fry until they turn a deep caramel brown. If you are unsure about the doneness you can check the internal temperature with a probe thermometer. When it reads 160 F, you’re there!

Serving suggestion: Hot Mustard, and/or HP Sauce.

Our pub food diet

Bonus link: Still confused about the Scotch egg? Ricky Gervais from the BBC comedy The Office explains it all to you.

Mr. Pibb + Pork = Crazy Delicious

Saturday, March 11th, 2006

A Crazy Delicious Burrito


So it’s gettin’ near lunch — time to make some burritos.
Let’s put in something weird!
Like a big bag of Cheetos?
That’s gross!
Yeah I know – hey this’ll satisfy your wishes: Mr. Pibb + Pork = Crazy Delicious!

Yes we know. There is a special place in hell reserved for us for this post.

Never mind that until the execs at NBC got pissy about it, Lonely Island’s Lazy Sunday clip was in heavy rotation on my YouTube favorites (along with Hasselhoff’s Hooked on a Feeling, so now you really know I’m going to burn in hell), truth be told, Mr Pibb and pork do indeed make a burrito Crazy Delicious.

What, you ask? Soft drinks in food? Are you insane? Oh, if only I could find photographic evidence of Iron Chef Chen’s Cola stewed piglet…

I mean, holy crap, someone even wrote an entire book about it. Look: Classic Cooking with Coca-Cola, it’s called, and yes, I’ll admit, it frightens me. Almost as much as this recipe for Dr. Pepper Chocolate Cake frightens me, but here’s the thing: Sometimes really frightening food combinations taste good.

The trick is to just not tell your snobby food friends that you dumped a can of Coke into your stew, right Chen? (Hey, don’t knock it; he won that episode.)

mr pibb + pork = crazy delicious

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Sin, Quantified

Tuesday, March 7th, 2006

sin

We taunted you back on Valentine’s Day with this shot of Chopper’s scrumptious Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake. Recipe to be posted later, we said.

Well, guess what! It’s later!

I can see it now: Belly Timber readers shaking their fists in our general direction. “Later? You call this Later? Later is all about hours, not days or — harrumph — weeks! Shame on you, depriving us for so long!”

Yes, we’re evil that way.

Or distracted.

Or frightfully busy.

You decide.

(If I weren’t so A. evil, B. distracted, or C. frightfully busy, I’d create a poll wherein you could all vote.)

Three notes regarding Sin, Quantified:

1. You need a 9-inch springform pan to do this. Use of any other pan would be folly. Parchment is also a must.
2. Chopper makes this cake at work. Patrons weep tears of joy over it. I, however, can eat no more than one tiny bite per sitting due to the ultimate evil known as “heavy cream.” If you make this cake and love it, please weep for me.
3.This is a three-part recipe. Needless to say, you should proceed in the proper order, otherwise you’ll end up with a very strange cake. I’m sure it’ll still taste good, though.

Chopper’s Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake

Serves 16

For the cake base
(Adapted from Joconde Sponge Cake, page 354, Professional Baking, Fourth Edition by Wayne Gisslen.)

  • 1 1/4 ounces ground hazelnuts
  • 1 1/2 ounces confectioners’ sugar
  • 1/2 ounce cake flour
  • 1/2 ounce cocoa powder
  • 2 1/2 ounces whole eggs
  • 1 3/4 ounces egg whites
  • 1/4 ounce granulated sugar
  • 1/2 ounce butter, melted

Method

  1. Mix together hazelnut, confectioners’ sugar, flour, and cocoa powder in a bowl.
  2. Add whole eggs and mix until smooth and light.
  3. Whip egg whites and sugar together until they form firm peaks.
  4. Gently fold egg whites into the other mixture, being careful not to allow much air to escape.
  5. Fold in the melted butter.
  6. Line the bottom of a 9 inch spring-form pan with parchment, and brush the sides with more melted butter.
  7. Pour cake batter into the pan, making sure it is evenly distributed.
  8. Bake at 400 F for at least 10 minutes, until firm to the touch. Then remove from oven and cool in the pan.
  9. When pan is cool, brush the sides again with melted butter and line with strips of parchment.

For mousse
(From Chocolate Mousse IV, page 488, Professional Baking, Fourth Edition by Wayne Gisslen.)

  • 1 pound bittersweet chocolate
  • 4 ounces butter
  • 6 ounces egg yolks
  • 8 ounces egg whites
  • 2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
  • 8 ounces heavy cream

Method

  1. Melt chocolate in a dry bowl over a hot water bath.
  2. Remove from heat and add butter, stirring until melted.
  3. Add egg yolks and mix thoroughly.
  4. Whip egg whites and sugar together until firm peaks form, then fold into the chocolate mixture.
  5. Whip cream until firm peaks form. Fold into the chocolate mixture.
  6. Transfer mousse into the parchment-lined cake pan that contains the baked cake base, making sure it is evenly distributed.
  7. Place pan in the freezer.

For ganache top layer

  • 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate
  • 8 ounces heavy cream
  • 2 ounces butter

Method

  1. Place cream in a pan over medium-high heat and bring just to a boil.
  2. Add chocolate and butter, and remove from the heat.
  3. Cover and allow to sit for 5 minutes.
  4. Whisk contents together, and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken and temperature is under 100 F.
  5. Take your cake pan from the freezer and pour ganache on top, making sure distribution is even, and there are as few bubbles as possible.
  6. Place back into the freezer and allow everything to set, about 4 hours, though overnight would be ideal.
  7. Remove from pan and serve. Makes 16 decadent slices.

Plating suggestion: Sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar and use the leftover ganache as a sauce.

Chopper's Triple Chocolate Mousse Cake

Paper Chef #15: Mighty Aphrodite

Wednesday, February 15th, 2006

pear, freshly poached

I wanted to spend the weekend making cheese sandwiches. Trouble is, every time Chopper sees the ingredient list for Paper Chef, his eyes light up like a puppy in a butcher shop. And this time? Beets, lime, pears, and aphrodisiacs, and us a couple blogging together? Ahem. How could we resist?

So, we hit the books. Or rather, the Google, and discovered all sorts of nifty lists and references to dozens of aphrodisiac foods, from the obvious (caviar) to the unexpected (coriander).

Now, I have a personal favorite aphrodisiac. It’s a combination of dark chocolate and Barry White. Gets me every time. But Chopper had other plans (or maybe he’s saving the dark chocolate and Barry White for later). See, he’d recently received a $25 gift certificate to our local grocery, and now he’d found the perfect excuse for some sensuous splurging.

So, to completely knock us out of contention for Paper Chef’s Super Saver category, we picked up three lusty participants for our lusty trio:

Caviar (Okay, black lumpfish roe, close enough for our purposes. Ah, mystical fish eggs, symbol of fertility…)
Truffles (They’re musky. Need we say more?)
Snails (I’m told it has something to do with their shape. What? It’s suggestive?)


Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you eat oysters?
Antoninus: When I have them, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you eat snails?
Antoninus: No, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Do you consider the eating of oysters to be moral and the eating of snails to be immoral?
Antoninus: No, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: Of course not. It is all a matter of taste, isn’t it?
Antoninus: Yes, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: And taste is not the same as appetite, and therefore not a question of morals.
Antoninus: It could be argued so, master.
Marcus Licinius Crassus: My robe, Antoninus. My taste includes both snails and oysters.

Sparticus, 1960, Lawrence Olivier as Marcus Licinius Crassius; Tony Curtis as Antonius

Ahem. So, where was I?

Oh, yes, we weren’t done yet. Chopper had other ingredients in mind for our Lusty Trio, and surprisingly, we found that several of them were also included on various lists of aphrodisiacs. Here are six more:

Vanilla (Its powerful scent evokes strong and sensuous emotions.)
White wine (In moderation, of course, or the hot date ends badly.)
Wasabi (Nature’s Cialis, rumor has it.)
Red chiles (Hot, hot, hot.)
Coriander (According to The Arabian Nights, a coriander concoction once saved a merchant from 40 years of infertility!)
Agave nectar (Not fermented agave, like tequila or pulque, but still…)


In Aztec times, pulque was the highly esteemed drink of the elders, priests and warriors, a nectar that according to myth oozed from the 400 breasts of the goddess Mayahuel.
–source: Sign on San Diego

Four hundred???

Okay, I think that should do it for aphrodisiacs. Time for some recipes.

a slice of red

Snails in beet cups with truffle butter

Ingredients

  • 1 very large red beet
  • Snails, as needed
  • Compound butter (see below), as needed
  • Red chiles
  • 2 tsp coriander seed

For compound butter

  • 1/4 lb European style butter
  • 1 tablespoon red bosc pear, minced
  • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
  • Zest of 1 baby lime, minced
  • 1 small black truffle, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

Take two tsp of butter and melt in a small sauté pan over low heat.
Add remaining ingredients and sweat over low heat for five minutes or until aroma is pungent. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Season to taste with salt.

When ingredients in pan are cool and remaining butter is soft, fold both together until thoroughly combined and roll into a log with parchment paper.

For beets

Fill a small pot with water, and add enough salt to make it taste briny. Then add a small handful of red chiles, and 2 teaspoons of coriander seed, and bring to a boil. Add the beet, skin on, to the boiling water and allow to come back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

Cook the beet until it is tender but not mushy, about 30-45 minutes. Remove it from the boil and place in a bath of ice water until its cool enough to handle. Then peel the skin off by hand and cut into thick slices.

Cut rounds out of the slices with whatever tool you can find; a biscuit cutter, ring mold, etc. With a Parisian scoop (a.k.a melonballer) hollow out the rounds, making them into little cups.

Place a shelled snail into each cup and add a thin (1/8 inch) slice of the compound butter on top.

Place all the prepared cups onto a sheet pan lined with parchment, and roast in a 350 F oven for 10 minutes.

Serve hot. Olympic Rings configuration optional.

Snails in beet cups with truffle butter

Salmon and beet mousse barquettes

For candied lime zest

  • Zest of 2 baby limes
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1/4 cup water

Combine water and sugar in a small pot and bring to a boil. When the mixture begins to get “frothy” add the zest strips.

Cook for 5 minutes, then strain. Place zest on a silpat, or parchment and into a 150 F oven and allow to dry.

For the mousse

  • 4 ounces smoked salmon
  • 2 ounces cooked red beet
  • 4 tablespoons tofutti cream cheese
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon wasabi powder
  • 5 large sprigs of fresh dill

Place all ingredients into a food processor and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt.

For barquettes

  • 2 cups AP flour
  • 1/2 cup shortening
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 bosc pear, peeled, cored, and pureed
  • 1/4 cup water

Biscuit method

Combine dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir together thoroughly.

Add butter and shortening, and “cut” into the dry ingredients with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.

Add the pureed pear and fold into the mixture, then add water as needed to bring the dough together.

Mold dough into a ball and wrap in plastic. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

When dough is properly chilled, roll portions into thin (1/8 inch) sheets and place in barquette molds, trimming away excess. Dock (poke holes in the bottom) as needed to keep the dough flat as it cooks.

Place molds in a 350 F oven until golden brown. Then remove and allow to cool.

Final assembly

Pipe finished mousse into cooled barquettes in whatever style you like. Garnish with a small dab of caviar (or in this case; black lumpfish roe) and candied lime zest.

Salmon and beet mousse barquettes

Poached pears with agave caramel sauce

Ingredients

  • 2 Bosc pears
  • 4 cups sweet white wine
  • 1/2 cup lime juice
  • 1/2 cup agave nectar
  • 2 vanilla beans
  • Beet powder for garnish

Poaching method:

Combine wine and lime juice in a two quart saucepan over low heat.

Split and scrape vanilla beans and add both the seeds and the hulls to the liquid.

When the liquid reached between 160 and 180 F peel the pears, leaving them whole, and place in the poaching liquid.

Cover the pan, and poach the pears for at least two hours, three would be better.

When pears are cooked through, remove from the liquid.

For sauce:

Ladle off 2/3 of a cup of the poaching liquid and add to another pan over medium-high heat.

Add the agave nectar and bring to a boil. Reduce until the mixture is thick, dark, and caramelized.

Plating:

Make six cuts along the length of the pear, being careful not to cut through the stem end. Push down onto a plate, giving a slight twist, allowing the pear to “fan out.” Spoon the sauce over top, and garnish with a vanilla bean hull, and a sprinkling of beet powder.

Poached pear with agave caramel sauce

Now, I should note that I neglected to include smoked salmon on my list of nine (nine!) aphrodisiacs, above, but whether documented or not, as far as I’m concerned, in my book the combo of smoked salmon and Peter Gabriel is right up there next to dark chocolate and Barry White. (Follow all that up with a glass of port and Alan Rickman, and I’m done.)

Oh, I could go on, but never mind that. Our Lusty Trio turned out quite delicious and so rich that just the smallest helping did me in for the evening. In fact, the both of us have been in recovery for three days, so it’s a wonder we’ve gotten any blogging done at all!

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Chopper’s Cheap Eats: Oxtail

Wednesday, February 1st, 2006

Braised Oxtail

This past weekend I was strolling the aisles of our local supermarket. Because we live on an island, it sometimes gets difficult to find quality foods at decent prices, but Saturday was a glorious exception.

First, I found one of my favorite main items in the meat case — oxtail — cheap! $1.49 a pound, and it was the good stuff too — from Misty Isle Farms, near Seattle — so I got two packs. Total so far: $6.50

Then I remembered that I also had a pound of dried fava beans in my pantry at home that I had purchased at a farmer’s market during a previous trip off island. I also remembered that we had onions, carrots, and garlic left unused from another meal preparation.

At this point, my brain gears began to turn and I bolted off to the produce section. I was in luck. A major sale on produce items was happening that day. I found asparagus for $1.09 a pound, and red bell peppers at 2 for 88 cents. Top it all off with rutabagas at 69 cents a pound and I was set for veggies.

The only other thing I needed was a “flavorful liquid,” and to my surprise I found quart containers of my favorite brand of stock, also on sale at $1.99 each

Total for the day: $11.35.

Total for the entire meal, not including a $10 bottle of wine (on sale), but estimating the cost of items already on hand: ~$16.00

Which leads me to this…

Oxtail

Braised Oxtail, with Fava Beans and Mixed Vegetables

Serves six

Ingredients

  • 6 large sections of oxtail
  • 1 large white onion, diced
  • 1 elarge rutabaga, peeled and cut into strips
  • 2 red bell peppers, one diced, the other cut into strips
  • 2 garlic bulbs, peeled and minced
  • 3/4 lb baby carrots
  • 1 bunch of asparagus, ends trimmed
  • 1 lb dried fava beans, soaked overnight, and peeled
  • 1 quart beef stock
  • 2 teaspoons mustard (I used Lopez Larry’s Smokey Chardonnay Dijon, but any kind that isn’t French’s will do fine.)
  • 1 teaspoon Israeli zahtar
  • 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Method

  1. Place stock in a medium sized pot over medium heat. Add soy sauce as needed for body and flavor (trust me; it works astoundingly well).
  2. Season both sides of the oxtail sections with salt and pepper.
  3. While stock is heating, take half of your baby carrots and dice them to the same size as your diced onion. Take the other half and slice them lengthwise.
  4. Place a cast iron skillet over medium high heat and add two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil to coat the bottom.
  5. When the oil starts to smoke, add the onion, diced carrots, and diced bell pepper. Caramelize these vegetables well and stir occasionally to avoid burning. Then deglaze the pan with red wine and add all the contents to the stock.
  6. Add another tablespoon of EVOO to the pan and place back on medium high heat. When the oil starts to smoke again, add the oxtail and caramelize well on all sides. Then, again, deglaze with red wine and add to the stock pot, which should now be at a simmer. Reduce heat to a low simmer and cover tightly. Allow the pot to cook for at least an hour; two would be better.
  7. While the pot is simmering, fill another pot with 4 cups of water. Add 4 tablespoons of Kosher salt and the 1/2 cup of rice wine vinegar, and bring to a boil.
  8. Blanche and shock vegetables as follows: When the water is boiling, add the carrots and rutabaga and bring back to a boil. Cook until softened but not mushy, then remove them and place in a bowl of ice water.
  9. Then place the asparagus in the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Be careful not to overcook. Then move it to the ice water with the carrots and rutabaga.
  10. Now, place the fava beans in the boil and cook until tender, then remove from heat, but leave them in the pot (ie, do not shock the fava beans).
  11. Fava Beans

  12. When the oxtail is “fork tender, well done,” you’re ready to serve. Ladle out two cups of the stock and place in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup of water with 2 tablespoons of cornstarch, making sure the starch is thoroughly dispersed. When the stock is at a boil, add the mustard and whisk until it’s fully incorporated, then add the starch water (known as a ‘slurry’) a little bit at a time. You won’t likely need to use it all. Reduce until the sauce attains the desired thickness.
  13. Take your cast iron skillet again, and add two tablespoons of EVOO, and place back on medium-high heat. Add the garlic and the vegetables from the ice water and lightly sauté with the zahtar.
  14. Plate the sections of oxtail on top of a bed of fava beans, then spoon the sauce over top. Arrange the vegetables as you like, and serve with a nice chianti.

Braised Oxtail


Mrs D sez:

We snagged the Israeli Zahtar at World Merchants spice, herb, and tea shop just below Pike Place Market in Seattle. Zahtar’s a spice blend that’s used in Middle Eastern and North African cooking. It’s got multitudes of variations, but this particular blend is made with toasted sesame seeds, Syrian sumac, and Moroccan thyme. It’s subtle and herbaceous, but even the light touch of it in the sautéed veggies gave this part of our meal a distinct and delicious Middle Eastern flavor.

Paper Chef #14: Quinoa Moai

Wednesday, January 11th, 2006

Babies? What were you people thinking?

Oh, wait. That was us.

Seriously, we’re utterly gobsmacked by the quality and quantity of Paper Chef entries this time, and it’s going to be a full day’s adventure going through them all, just for the round-up, never mind the judging! You people are all insane. And we mean that in a loving, join usssss, be one of ussss way.

In the meantime, we’ve got our own N.E.E. (Non-Entry-Entry) to post. Now, since we’re non-competitors, we’ve allowed ourselves a wee bit of laziness. We didn’t come up with brilliant takes on “baby” ingredients, nor were any actual babies baked into our dish. Instead, we simply snagged two of the ingredients we’d featured in our Paper Chef Announcement Baby Food Photo Set: Baby Food and Baby Ruth bars.

Ahem, make that baby bok choy, and baby Yukon gold potatoes.

Chopper, always one to find ways to envelop seafood in a crust, zipped to the market for a few salmon fillets and produced this tasty dinner treat: Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce.

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Ingredients

  • 1 lb salmon filet
  • 1 cup quinoa
  • 1/2 cup cashew butter
  • 5 baby Yukon gold potatos
  • 3 baby bok choy
  • 1 cup plain yogurt
  • 4 chipotles, de-stemmed
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1 tablesppon fresh sage, minced
  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme
  • Kosher salt to taste
  • Ground black pepper to taste

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 375 F.
  2. Slice potatoes into rounds and toss in a mixing bowl with olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme. Lay out seasoned rounds on a parchment-lined sheet-pan and place in oven. Roast for 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown.
  3. While the potatoes are cooking, remove skin from the salmon filet and cut the filet into one inch strips across the grain season lightly with salt and pepper.
  4. Cook quinoa until tender in a one quart pot with 2 cups of salted water.
  5. Transfer quinoa to a mixing bowl and add cashew butter and sage; mix until combined and season with salt and pepper.
  6. Place a sauté pan over medium high heat and add enough olive oil to coat the bottom.
  7. When the oil begins to smoke, sear the salmon slivers on both sides for five seconds, then remove and allow to cool.
  8. When the salmon is cool enough to handle, wrap the slivers in the quinoa mixture, and arrange on another parchment-lined sheet-pan.
  9. Brush the crusted slivers with olive oil and place in the oven, cook for 15-20 minutes, or until the crust is brown and crispy.
  10. For Sauce

    Place yogurt in small sauce pan over medium heat. Add whole chipotles and paprika. When the yogurt begins to simmer, transfer to a blender and puree. Season with salt to taste, and strain through a fine sieve.

Some notes on our curious dish:

The crust was crumbly, very crumby, which meant we had a limited number of plating options. Salmon medallions were out of the question, as was slicing the fillet lengthwise and standing one half up against the other. So, after various ill-fated architectural endeavors, we opted for the simple, upright, halved fillet.

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

Hmm… Something almost mythic about that stark statue of salmon. What is it?

Ah, yes. Now I see it:

The Easter Island edition

Now, the sauce. A word about the sauce. It’s hot. I mean really hot. Yosemite Sam biscuits-are-burnin’ hot. You might want to tone it down with more yog(H)urt. Or a pint of Ben & Jerry’s.

Meanwhile, we’re reviewing this month’s record number of Paper Chef entries and we promise a round-up tomorrow or Friday, with judging and awards to follow soon after. (And, let me tell you, this is not going to be easy! I mean… can I trade places with an Oscar voter? Please? Please?)

Quinoa crusted salmon with baby bok choy, baby Yukon gold potatoes, and chipotle yogurt sauce

All is lazy on New Year’s Day

Monday, January 2nd, 2006

Tortilla Espanola, new year's day

For me, New Year’s Day has always been the one day a year specifically dedicated toward complete and utter laziness. All other holidays have activities — hell, even Saint Paddy’s Day involves the technicalities of green food coloring — but New Year’s Day?

Wake up late. Make leisurely breakfast. Watch TV. Veg out. Watch movie. Go to bed. End of day.

That’s it.

Of course, sometimes we cook. A few years back, down in Portland, we had friends over and made a killer spread of dim sum we devoured during the Food Network’s Iron Chef marathon.

This year we kept things simple. Chopper’d worked late the night before (no holiday rest for employees of the hotel industry), and we hadn’t had time to pick up more than a few essentials at the grocery store, so for our New Year’s Day?

Football, and the perfect lazy breakfast utility food: the tortilla española.

For our version, Chopper included:*

  • 2 Whole eggs
  • 3 tablespoons mashed potato
  • 1 Red bell pepper, sliced into rings
  • 1 Shallot, sliced thin
  • 1 Garlic bulb, cloves peeled and sliced thin
  • Salt and pepper to taste

And you know what? I’m still in lazy New Year’s Day mode, so I’m not even going to post the procedure. (And I call myself a food blogger. Hah.) Just go over here and read all about these simple-to-make, tasty puppies.

Oh, do I dare point out that I’m writing about New Year’s Day a day late? How much more lazy can I get?

Well…

I’ve got one of those ubiquitous end-of-year, looking back/looking ahead posts half-finished and lazing about in Word.

I totally blew off cat, dog, and herb blogging this last weekend — though I did entertain the brief notion of throwing both pets into the rosemary bush, snapping a quick pic, and covering all three activities at once.

Oh, and hey, because I’m a bum, a lazy bum (if just for one more day, I promise), I’m going to send everyone elsewhere for yet another activity: Paper Chef Ingredient Nominations, now open over at Tomatilla!

We’ll be back in gear shortly, if only because Kitty Kaga’s eying us from her favorite pillow and sharpening her claws.

[*Oh look! An update with slightly less lazy details: Chop your veggies & garlic. Take a "handful" (or rather, how ever much you want per tortilla), and sweat them in the bottom of a skillet. Then add two eggs (raw, beaten) mixed with three tablespoons mashed potatoes to the skillet and cook, omelet-style, with much Iron Chef Chen style flipping. Okay, maybe not so much the last part. It can get messy and then you'll miss part of the Seahawks game.]

Cook ‘n Books: Cookies and Rockets!

Monday, December 12th, 2005

Jay's Ginger Chocolate Chip Cookies

cook n the books
I’ve got a secret to tell you: There’s a UFO hidden in my best friend’s barn.

Actually, that’s not my secret, it’s Vernon Dunham’s secret and I’ll get to Vernon in just a moment. My secret is this: When I’m not doing the food blogging thing, I’m doing the genre fiction thing. I’m either writing it, or reading it, or discussing it, or playing silly games of “Which Fantasy/SciFi Character Are You?” (Answer: no lie, I’m Kirk.)

Now what’s this have to do with food blogging? Well, just this:

I’ve met some fine authors in my genre fiction travels and when I catch them swapping recipes or proclaiming their latest Copyedits Complete Commemorative Homecooked Cobbler, my ears perk up. I think: Hey! Authors + recipes = cool new content for Belly Timber!

So, allow me to introduce Cook ‘n Books: An occasional series of book reviews, excerpts, and miscellaneous fictions, each accompanied by a recipe from the featured author.

Rocket ScienceFor our inaugural edition, we’ve got fantastically tasty cookies (I just wolfed one down a moment ago), and Mrs D’s review of the spiffy new novel Rocket Science by Jay Lake.

Jay Lake is the 2004 John W. Campbell Award winner for Best New Writer. He’s been a Hugo nominee for his short fiction, and a World Fantasy Award nominee for his editing. Just a few of his many projects include the critically-acclaimed Polyphony anthology series (co-edited with Deborah Layne), All-Star Zeppelin Adventure Stories (co-edited with David Moles) and two short story collections, Greetings from Lake Wu and American Sorrows.

Jay is a fiercely imaginative and prolific writer, and someone Chopper and I are proud to call a good friend, in no small part due to his willingness to wear shockingly bright colors and his wicked sense of humor. Also, he writes kick-ass stories, but you’ve probably guessed that already.

For this post, Jay offers us Ginger Chocolate Chip Cookies. He’s taken a classic recipe and given it a twist, which is, I have to say, a perfect match for Rocket Science and what’s lurking in Vernon Dunham’s best friend’s barn…

Rocket Science by Jay Lake
Reviewed by Mrs. D
Trade Paperback, 220 pages
Fairwood Press, August 2005
ISBN 0-9746573-6-0

Vernon Dunham’s best friend Floyd Bellamy went to war and came home a hero. Vernon stayed behind with a bum leg from childhood polio. Floyd fought Nazis, got a chest-full of medals, and landed the 1942 prom queen. All Vernon’s got is the label of a wartime “stay-at-home” (even with his aircraft engineering job at Boeing), and a dad who’s the town drunk. It’s the kind of disparity that would put a strain on any friendship, but what really knocks it for a loop is the cargo Floyd’s brought home with him from Europe: a Nazi halftrack and a top secret weapon that looks like no airplane Vernon’s ever seen. How Floyd got it past all borders and authorities is anyone’s guess, but now it’s sitting in the Bellamy’s barn and Vernon knows one thing and one thing only: He’s got to fly it.

Of course, this being science fiction, we know right away that the “rocket” is no weapon and it most definitely wasn’t built by Nazis. A little digging in the local Augusta, Kansas library points Vernon toward the truth, Golden Age style: The rocket was found buried under the Arctic ice.

Trouble is, once Vernon starts digging, others discover he’s been digging and soon he’s neck deep in bad guys. Government agents, Nazi spies, mobsters, and moonshiners; they’re all after him and it takes Vernon (and the reader) most of the book to sort out who’s who.

Not that this is a bad thing. On the contrary, the twists and turns are enough to fill six months of Saturday serials, and through all of this, Vernon’s got one heck of an ally. See, his UFO isn’t just a McGuffin, it’s a character. In fact, it talks. The moment it starts talking is classic, old school. Vernon, in a borrowed Caddy, hears a voice from the rocket’s handset and is convinced he’s gone plum crazy. After all, where are the radio tubes? Yes, this is smack dab in good old 1945, and the pocket transistor won’t hit the market for another nine years. And A.I.? Again, wait till the 50s. (I can only imagine what Vernon would make of OnStar. Total meltdown of incomprehensibility.)

But, once Vernon accepts that his “doo-dad” does indeed do what no Earthmade radio can do, well… I won’t spoil for anyone what happens next.

Augusta Kansas, the setting of Rocket Science, is about as perfect a small town in 1940s America as anyone can find. It’s Mayberry, complete with law guys named Ollie Wannamaker. But when Vernon digs deeper and finds the town’s dark side, the narrative doesn’t go all David Lynch on us. It stays firmly optimistic, so much so that you’d almost expect an ending with the happy rocket in the hands of the good-guy Feds and Vernon landing Miss Butler County.

But you’d be wrong. This sly tale does end happy, but the final twist leaves behind the expected and sends Vernon to the land of childhood dreams. And trust me — you’ll want to be right there with him when he goes.


Rocket Science is available through Fairwood Press, or at fine independent booksellers everywhere.

Clarkesworld Books

Check out Rocket Science and more books by Jay Lake at

And now… cookies!

Jay Lake’s Ginger Chocolate Chip Cookies

This is derived from the standard Nestle recipe, so all you really have to do is remember the variations and work off the back of the bag — that’s how I do it.

Cookie ingredients

Ingredients:

  • 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1-2 tablespoons cinnamon (or to taste — you can also use nutmeg here with the cinnamon)
  • 1 cup (2 sticks or 1/2 pound) butter, softened
  • 1-1/2 cups turbinado (raw, large grain) sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 medium ginger root, grated or finely chopped (vary amount to taste)
  • 2 eggs
  • 4 cups (24-ounce package) chocolate chips
  • 2 cups chopped nuts (I prefer pecans or walnuts, but peanuts work just fine)

Cookie batter

Method

Combine flour, baking soda, salt and cinnamon in small bowl. Beat butter, turbinado sugar, vanilla and almond extract in large mixer bowl. Add ginger. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition; gradually beat in flour mixture. Stir in chocolate chips and nuts. Drop by rounded tablespoon onto baking sheets covered with baking parchment.

#

Bake in preheated 375-degree oven for 9 to 11 minutes or until golden brown. Let stand for 2 minutes; remove to wire racks to cool completely.

Jay's Ginger Chocolate Chip Cookies


Don’t forget: It’s Annual Food Blog Award Nomination Time! Head on over to The Accidental Hedonist and keep those nominations coming!

Paper Chef Lucky 13: Oooh, Fishy, fishy, fishy, fish…

Monday, December 5th, 2005

Panko Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

I’m not sure what’s gotten into him, but Chopper’s been chomping at the Paper Chef bit extra hard for days. Usually, when the time grows nigh, he gets notions. “Whatever the ingredients are,” he says, days before they’re announced, “I’m gonna use _____.” And then he proceeds to name some exotic item in our pantry or our freezer that quite possibly won’t go with anything on the final Paper Chef ingredient list.

And so, on Friday afternoon, when we checked the list, it was no surprise that thoughts of the freezer item du jour fled out the window and instead we began the required pondering of item number four.

Ingredient 1: Rice
Ingredient 2: Carrots
Ingredient 3: Anchovies
Ingredient 4: Something from the other side of the world that helps make this dish a celebration for you.

Hmmm… Something from the other side of the world, we contemplate, conveniently forgetting the whole “celebration” bit because just finding something from the other side of the world around these parts can be quite the challenge.

Immediately, Chopper starts talking Asian food because, well, the ingredients rather scream Asian, but I interrupt and say, “hey, let’s figure out where exactly the other side of the world is. Who knows. It could be nowhere near Asia, geographically speaking.”

So, after several minutes of semi-fruitless longitude, latitude, and antipode googling, we pull out our trusty National Geographic Atlas of the World and do the math.

Ahah. Page 168, 48S, 57E give or take a few degrees, and there we are. In the middle of the Indian Ocean.

But wait! There’s land nearby! Maybe they’ve got a national cuisine!

Right. The nearest land to our antipode, as it happens, is a tiny little island called ÃŽle de l’Est, the (appropriately named) Eastern most member of the Crozet Islands.

Hey! They’re a French Colony — we can cook something French! Wait a sec. France still has colonies?

Well, an interesting thought, but probably not exactly what Owen, our illustrious Paper Chef host, had in mind. No, let’s check out the local flora and fauna… No trees, not much growing on the ground that looks edible… a few imported species that, for the most part, have vanished… Ah, here we go:

atipodean lunch

Whoa. Okay, okay, we’re not really going to cook penguin. They’re too cute and fluffy, and honestly where is one supposed to find penguin meat on this short notice?

(By the way when searching (unsuccessfully) for nearby penguin vendors, we happened upon a place in Seattle that sells kangaroo! Note for future reference…)

So then, no food from the antipode, sad to say.

We stare at the map a while longer.

“Well,” I offer, “it’s kinda close to Africa.”

(And no, we are not googling that scary place in the Midwest that sells lion meat.)

So, Chopper dives into a bit of quick spice research and comes up with tamarind, a tasty fruit native to tropical Africa. He jumps in the car, heads out to the store and… comes back empty-handed. Tamarind is not to be found on our island.

Back to the spice research.

Ahah! Fenugreek, indigenous to Northern Africa through the Mediterranean and into Asia, this herb is extremely common in African cuisine, so that could count, right? You know fenugreek was used by ancient Egyptians to embalm mummies? How cool is that?

Okay, that’s one… close to our antipode, though rather far to the north. So, we fudge a little.

Meanwhile, there’s that whole “celebration” thing we’ve forgotten about. We ponder a bit further, and unable to settle on a single ingredient number four, decide to celebrate the following cool, far-from-home items we’ve located on recent culinary expeditions, first to our local favorite shop The Gourmet’s Galley, and then to Uwajimaya in Seattle.

1) Szechwan peppercorns. I spotted a bag of these at Gourmet’s Galley a short while back and sent Chopper into paroxysms of joy. These babies aren’t easy to find. For a while, the FDA had a complete ban on their importation because they carried a citrus canker, but this past spring that ban was lifted after it was discovered that heating the peppercorns to 160F killed the canker bacteria. Now, they’re simply heated before importation. (And there was much rejoicing!)

2) From Uwajimaya, dried shitake mushrooms. Yeah, they’re not that hard to find — unless you live on an island, and then the come in tiny, “gourmet” packages that cost an arm and two kidneys. So, we got the nice big bag at Uwajimaya, and again, there was much rejoicing!

3) Last, because it’s on the list already, the piece de resistance for our festive dish: anchovies. Not anchovies in a tin, or anchovies in a jar, but dried anchovies from Japan. The ones that still look like cute little fishies, so much so that if you glued strings to them and hung them from the ceiling under a blue light you’d have quite a lovely little aquatic mobile (not to mention one hell of a great Christmas present for the cat). Yes, those anchovies, because there’s nothing that says Insane Belly Timber Paper Chef Entry quite like dried fish leaping out of shitake mushroom cap siu mai.

Fishy Siu Mai

Special Siu Mai and Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

Flavoring paste (for both recipes)

  • 1 large carrot, peeled and diced
  • 8 anchovy fillets
  • 2 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon fenugreek
  • 1/4 cup sesame oil

Toast spices and grind them with mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

Blanch carrot in boiling water until soft, then place all ingredients in a blender and puree.

Special Siu Mai

  • 3/4 pound pork spare rib meat
  • 6 whole water chestnuts, julienned
  • 2 tablespoon flavoring paste (see above)
  • 15 dried shitake mushroom caps
  • 15 dried anchovies

Cut sparerib meat into cubes and place into a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped.

Place meat and flavoring paste in a mixing bowl and gently kneed together with your hands and then refrigerate for at least eight hours.

Siu Mai in prep

After meat mixture is chilled, soak mushroom caps in enough water to cover for 30 minutes.

Remove the mushroom caps from water and squeeze out excess.

Take meat mixture and mold it into small balls. Fill the mushroom caps with meat and place a dried anchovy in each as garnish. Steam for 20 to 25 minutes.

Serve with steamed rice.

A plate of fishy Siu Mai

Fried Shrimp in Chili Sauce

  • 15 21/30 shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • Flour, egg, and panko for breading

For the sauce

  • 2 tablespoons peanut oil
  • 3 tablespoons Chinese hot bean paste
  • 2 tablespoons Flavoring Paste (see above)
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce

Panko shrimp in prep

Bread and fry shrimp in vegetable oil until golden brown.
Remove from oil, drain and set aside.

In a wok, heat peanut oil until smoking.
Add hot bean paste and flavoring paste
When the aroma becomes thick and ingredients begin to smoke, add fish sauce.
Add shrimp and toss until the shrimp are thoroughly covered with the sauce.

Serve with steamed rice.

Serving suggestion: Furikake for an extra fishy kick.

(Okay, we admit, the rice isn’t so much in the dishes as under the dishes, but we’ll just plead “dim sum” as an excuse and suggest that one does not ever eat dim sum without copious amounts of steamed rice.)

Leaping Siu Mai fish

Now, for this month’s Paper Chef, previous winner Noodle Cook (and yes this is, happily, all our fault!) has created categories! And there are prizes! (I now officially feel like a complete slacker.)

So, without further ado, here are Noodle’s categories and our self-nomination within each appropriate one.

Paper Chef Personality – creative, clever or witty writer. ::cough:: Um, penguin meat and fishie mobiles. Do you need to ask?

Paper Chef Super Saver – budget meals or crowd pleaser specialist. We’re probably not suited to this one because, frankly, I’m too lazy to do the math. I will say that the only items that cost more than a buck or two were the shrimp and the pork spare rib meat, and even all of that was pretty darned cheap. Hell, if dim sum’s not cheap, it’s not doing its job and should be sacked immediately.

Paper Chef Prestige – food styling, presentation or plating up expert. Styling? Hahahahahahahah. Sorry. Do leaping fishies count?

Paper Chef Nutrition Genie – magician for getting fussy diners to eat veggies, less salt, less fat. Usually, Chopper Dave and the phrase “eat veggies, less salt, less fat” do not belong in the same kitchen, but with Asian food he makes an exception. On the Chopper Health Scale, I’d give these dishes a solid 8.5.

Paper Chef Supreme – the champion for Paper Chef #13. Well, one would assume that if we’re here at all, we’re here for the big prize, eh?

So then, clear as mud.

But wait, there’s more! Didn’t Noodle say something about bonus points?

Oh crap! We forgot the festive atmosphere! Quick! Scramble for the camera and –didn’t Noodle Cook say something about — what was it — beer? Incense?

Ah, here we are:

Special Siu Mai, with beer
Hey, don’t bogart that siu mai, man.

So, how’d it all taste? Bonus versatility points to Chopper for inventing a distinctive flavoring paste that stood out in both recipes, even though one was pork and the other seafood, and one was mild and the other hot and spicy. The water chestnuts added a great texture to the sui mai and the fish didn’t so much add a fishy flavor but a perfect salty seasoning. The shrimp, despite being tossed in a sauce, remained crunchy, yet succulent. I was amazed at how well I could discern each individual ingredient in the mix for both dishes — even the fenugreek and the carrot, which I would have expected to be lost, were evident. All in all a splendid meal!

Seattle/Stew

Friday, November 18th, 2005

pike_place.jpg

What does one do after a crazy/busy week full of deadlines and dilemmas? Why one jaunts off to Seattle for the day!

We’re off bright and early tomorrow morning, and our goal is to cram in as much great food-related shopping as possible in our tiny window of time. (I say tiny because we’ll also be meeting up with friends, prepping for an evening party, and hauling the infamous poochie around with us everywhere we go.)

So, if any of Seattle’s denizens have food shopping recommendations… speak up! On the list so far, Uwajimaya and World Spice Merchants — but that’s only because we know about those places. Tell us about all those cool and super cheap places no one knows about.

Oh, wait. Then everyone would know.

It’s okay. Whisper a name or two in my ear. Mum’s the word.

Meanwhile, here’s a simple Irish style stew for another rainy weekend.

irish stew

Chopper’s Irish style Beef Stew

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs Beef Chuck, cut into 1/2 to 3/4 inch cubes
  • 5 medium sized carrots, peeled, quartered, and sliced thick
  • 5 large stalks of celery, topped and sliced thick
  • 3 large leeks sliced into rounds
  • 4 medium sized russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
  • 2 quarts beef stock or broth
  • 1 tablespoon dried thyme
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Red wine
  1. Place liquid in a large pot and put on high heat.
  2. While liquid is heating, caramelize carrots and celery in a separate pan, and add to the pot.
  3. When pot comes to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, and add potatoes.
  4. Brown beef in the same pan used to cook the vegetables, deglaze with red wine, and add to the pot.
  5. Add leeks to the pot, and cover.
  6. Simmer until beef is fall apart tender, then add thyme, and season to taste.
  7. Serve with Irish Soda Bread.

WDB #9, with Onion Rings

Sunday, November 13th, 2005

How to spend your gloomy Sunday afternoon:

1) Stare out the windows at the rain and think wistful thoughts about summer and puppy excursions to the beach.

The puppy is gloomy

2) Promise the puppy a walk. Soon. When it stops raining.

3) Take a nice big yellow onion (the one you’ve been saving for spaghetti sauce) and slice it into rings.

4) Mix up some batter:

       2 cups of AP flour or tempura batter mix
       2 cups of beer. (Damn, now you’ve broken the symmetry of the six pack. Guess it’s time to drink the rest.)
       2 Tbl lemon pepper
       1 1/2 tsp sea salt

5) Heat up a wok full of vegetable oil to about 350 to 375 F and have a wire rack on a cookie sheet and a warm oven standing by.

6) Pour some flour into a bowl.

7) Dredge a ring of onion in the flour, shake off the excess, then dunk it in batter. Drop the battered ring into the hot oil and let it fry up nice and golden. Remove and place on the wire rack. Repeat until you’ve got a good assemblage of rings, then stick them in the oven to keep them warm till you’re done with the frying and ready to chow.

8) Serve with ketchup or barbecue sauce or whatever other condiments you have in your fridge, and — of course — with any left over beer.

Onion rings on a rainy day

9) Turn on the TV and watch the Seahawks stomp the Rams.

10) Notice the fading daylight and make it up to the puppy by playing chase around the living room furniture. Be sure you’ve consumed all the onion rings and all of the beer so that nothing is wasted, even though the puppy would really like her share.

Mussaman Curry Lamb with Orange and Jasmine Rice

Thursday, November 10th, 2005

Mussaman Curry

Why we thought we’d have time and energy to actually make a Paper Chef dish (and write it up) along with our judgment and round-up duties is anyone’s guess, but here we are, and here’s our dish. Before I get into the details, let me just say that my admiration for food blog event hosts has gone through the roof this past week. Talk about ass-busting work. Wow.

So, about those four ingredients… The tricky thing with Paper Chef is that it’s global so it can’t ever be truly seasonal. The best we can ever hope for is to have a list of ingredients that anyone anywhere can approximate. And since we went random for three of them this time, we ran the risk of drawing one that was so seasonal, people on half the globe would be S.O.L. Even so, I will admit that I was surprised that some folks had trouble finding fresh basil (it’s easy to think “well, if I can get it here on this tiny island…”), but I’m pleased to see the fascinating substitutions folks came up with for their entries this month. We’ve been guilty of griping about ingredient accessibility in the past ourselves, and it wasn’t until serving as hosts that we came to realize how tough this whole process is.

And now, on with the dish. Since we’re hosting and not feeling compelled to do anything mind-bendingly creative, we opted for the first thing that sprung to mind, moments after selecting our list of basil, fish sauce, oranges, and lamb: a Thai curry dish.

For this particular dish, Chopper chose Mussaman (also called Massaman) curry. Mussaman is a Thai transliteration of “Muslim” and this curry originates with Muslim immigrants and the spices they brought to Southern Thailand many years ago. It’s a mild curry compared to most other Thai curries, and works well with lamb and with the subtle shifts of flavor brought on by the addition of orange and basil.

Mussaman Curry

Mussaman Curry Lamb with Orange and Jasmine Rice

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 lb lamb shoulder chops, bones removed, and sliced thin against the grain
  • 1 medium sized eggplant (or 3 Thai eggplants… they’re small…), cut into 3/4 inch cubes
  • 2 baby bok choy, quartered
  • 2 arge carrots, peeled and chopped
  • 3 tablespoons Mussaman Curry Paste
  • 20 whole basil leaves (Thai basil is preferred, but not required)
  • 1/4 pound cashews
  • 1 1/2 cup clear beef broth
  • 1 cup Satsuma orange juice (about six oranges worth of juice)
  • 3 tablespoon fish sauce

First things first. The curry paste. (This is very much like the Red Curry paste we posted about earlier, but if you look, you’ll note the changes)

Home made Thai Mussaman curry paste

  • 1 pound dried red chiles
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
  • 1/2 cup coriander seeds
  • 2 tablespoons cumin seeds
  • 12 husked cardamom pods
  • 12 whole cloves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 4 stalks lemongrass
  • 3 tablespoons minced galangal
  • 1 cup minced garlic
  • 2 cups minced shallots
  • 1 tablespoons shrimp paste
  • Beef stock or broth, as needed

Have a large mortar and pestle ready.

First, stem and seed the chiles. Then soak them for 20-30 minutes, or until they are hydrated enough to peel. Then remove the skins.

Put a small sauté pan on medium high heat, no oil. When the pan is hot, add the cinnamon stick and shake it around in the pan until you begin to detect its aroma. Then add the peppercorns and wait again for the aroma. Then add the coriander, repeat, and also with the cloves, cumin, and cardamom.

When all the spices are toasted, place them in the mortar and pestle, and allow them to cool.

While the spices are cooling, take the lemongrass and bash it with the flat side of your knife until it’s bruised and frayed. Then slice only the white parts and mince.

Pound spices into a powder, then add lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, and shrimp paste. Pound down to a thick paste, then add chiles.

Keep pounding, adding beef stock or broth until the paste has the desired consistency.

***

Now, toast the cashews in a 350 degree oven, until golden brown and fragrant.

While the nuts are toasting, add two tablespoons of peanut oil to a wok over medium-high heat. When the oil begins to smoke, add carrots.

As carrots begin to caramelize, add lamb and brown.

When both lamb and carrots are sufficiently browned, remove from the wok and set aside.

Put wok back on the heat, and add 1 tablespoon of peanut oil, and 1 tablespoon of sesame oil.

When the oil begins to smoke again, add curry paste. Mash the paste into the oil, and allow it to fry for 2 minutes, then add the fish sauce.

Mix paste and fish sauce thoroughly, then add the bok choy, lamb, and carrots to the wok, and toss to cover with the mixture.

Add broth and orange juice and bring to a simmer.

Simmer for 15-20 minutes, checking the tenderness of the lamb periodically. When lamb is cooked to just under the desired tenderness, add the eggplant and nuts and continue to simmer until eggplant is tender, but not mushy.

Serve with Orange Jasmine Rice…

Orange Zest Rice

Orange Jasmine Rice

Ingredients

  • 2 cups jasmine rice
  • Zest from six Satsuma oranges

Place the ingredients in your handy-dandy rice cooker, and add enough water to cover the rice by 1/2 an inch.

Cook until rice cooker “pops”

Chopper says: Mmmm mmmm, I love Thai curry!

Mrs D. says: I think I died and went to Thai curry heaven. Seriously, this one rocked our little culinary world. We loved it so much, Chopper made it twice. (And I will force him to make it again, and again, and again…)

And now… stay tuned…. Paper Chef Round-Up coming right up!

Mussaman Curry

Pizza!

Tuesday, November 1st, 2005

a slice of pizza

Pizza. This crusty Italian pie has become one of the most popular foods in the world. And, everywhere pizza is made a different approach is taken. From the crispy, thin crusted, simply topped, New York style, to the hearty, cheesy, thick crusted pan style pizza of Chicago, to the “specialty gourmet” pizzas that originated on the west coast, and infinite others, pizza is one of the most diverse food offerings to share a single name.

Pizza’s humble beginnings can be dated all the way back to the 6th century B.C., when Persian soldiers baked a simple flat bread on their shields which were placed over top of camp fires, topping the bread with cheese and dates. In the following centuries this simple, easy to prepare food became popular in Rome, and evidence of shops that bear a striking resemblance to more contemporary pizzerias has been found in the unearthed ruins of Pompeii which date back to the year 79 A.D.

Pizza didn’t reach the U.S., though, until the early 20th century, when an Italian immigrant, Gennaro Lombardi, is widely known to have opened the first Pizzeria in New York City in 1905.

Pizza later spread to the “second city.” In 1943, Chicago-style deep-dish pizza was created by Ike Sewell at his now well-known establishment called Pizzeria Uno (which later became a nation-wide chain).

pizza in the pan

In 1945, American soldiers that had been stationed in Italy during World War II returned, bringing a taste for the savory pie with them — so much so, that a mere three years later, in 1948, a niche was found, and the first “kit” was produced that allowed pizza to be made at home, called “Roman Pizza Mix.”

The popularity of pizza in the U.S. really took off in the 1950s, however. Americans really started noticing pizza when Italian-American celebrities such as Frank Sinatra, Jimmy Durante, Jerry Colonna, and Joe DiMaggio all could be seen enjoying pizza. Then, in 1957 frozen pizzas were introduced by the Celentano Brothers, and could be found in local grocery stores. Soon afterward, pizza became the most popular of all frozen foods.

Pizza has had a long and, for the most part, illustrious history. From its obscure beginnings as a simple food for soldiers on the march, to its modern incarnations where just about anything goes, pizza will continue to be enjoyed the world over.

Now, after that long-winded overview of my favorite pie, here’s my version!

Chopper’s meatball deep dish pizza

For the dough

  • 1 pint water
  • 3/4 ounces active dry yeast
  • 1 pound 12 ounces flour
  • 1/2 ounce sea salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon corn syrup
  • 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons sugar

Whisk water, corn syrup, and sugar together until fully dissolved. Then add yeast, and whisk until yeast is also dissolved.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour and salt.

When the liquid mixture looks “foamy” on top, add to the dry ingredients, and then add the oil.

Fold the ingredients together until all of the flour is hydrated. Then knead for 20 minutes, and mold into a large ball.

Clean out and dry the bowl, then apply a thin coat of oil with a paper towel. Then rub another thin coat of oil on the ball of dough and place in the bowl, and cover loosely with plastic wrap.

While the dough is resting and rising, make your sauce, meatballs, and grate your cheese ;-)

For the meatballs

  • 1/2 pound ground pork butt
  • 1/2 pound ground beef round
  • 1/2 pound ground lamb shoulder
  •  
  • 2 teaspoons dry basil
  • 2 teaspoons dry parsley
  • 2 teaspoons dry thyme
  • 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
  • 2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 1 teaspoon onion powder
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 cup bread crumbs
  • 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
  • 5 ounces frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed
  • More bread crumbs for coating

Work all ingredients together with your hands, making sure not to be too rough.

When everything is fully combined, portion into 3/4 to 1 oz balls, and set aside.

Place 1 quart of vegetable oil in a pot over medium high heat, and have a bowl of bread crumbs ready (about 1/2 a cup will do).

When the oil is hot enough to fry, roll your meatballs in the bread crumbs in batches, and lightly fry them, just enough to get a crust on the surface, but not enough to thoroughly cook them.

For the sauce

  • 2 cans whole peeled tomatoes
  • 1 each medium yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon garlic, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon dry basil
  • 1 tablespoon dry oregano
  • 2 teasoons dry thyme
  • 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced
  • 1/2 cup red wine
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons brown sugar
  • Salt and black pepper to taste

Put a medium sized pot over medium heat, and add 2 tbl of olive oil.

Crush the tomatoes by hand in a bowl and set aside

Add onions and garlic, and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes or until the aromas start to become pungent and the onion turns translucent.

Add herbs, and sweat another minute, then add red wine.

Reduce the mixture by about 1/4, then add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer.

Simmer for about 10 minutes, then puree the sauce (I use a stick blender), and bring back to a simmer.

Add sugar, and season to taste.

There, that’s all the components. Though, you may want to add some vegetables to your pie as well.

Now, I really like Chicago style, deep dish pizza. And the best part of making it is that you don’t really need a pizza stone (though having one would still be nice). All you really need is a good cast iron pan.

Preheat your oven to its highest possible setting (most just say “broil” which is fine, but if yours goes up to 550 F, you’re good to go).

By now your dough should be well rested, and about twice its previous size. Turn it out of the bowl, and “punch” it down to get rid of any oversized air pockets. This should be enough dough to make two or three ten inch pizzas.

For that size you’ll need 10 oz of dough, rolled thin enough to line your pan from edge to edge, and all the way up the sides as well.

Then ladle in your sauce and spread evenly, make sure not to add too much, or your crust will be soggy.

Now, here comes the first layer of cheese. Since Mrs. D is lactose intolerant, we scoured the cheese aisle at our local market to find something we could use, and we did! There’s a wonderful Greek sheep/goat cheese called Kasseri, “the melting cheese of Greece.” Mrs. D was jubilant. Anyway, layer on about 1/2 a pound over the sauce, then add your condiments, in this case split meatballs, mushrooms, black olives, and red onions, and fresh roma tomatoes.

Place your panned creation in your oven and cook for 15 minutes, or until the crust turns a deep brown. And, there you have it. Pizza a ‘la Chopper!

Chopper's meatball pizza

Curry Paste for months!

Monday, October 17th, 2005

mortar and pestle

I used to be a dork.* A big ol’ American dork who thought all cool ethnic foods like chutneys and curry pastes came straight from jars which came straight from factories because who the heck would ever make this stuff from scratch, right? I mean nobody but chefs and people with tons of time ever did that.

At my house it was never about tons of time. It was about throwing some Kikkoman Teriyaki sauce on a bowl of Top Ramen, calling it “ethnic” (hah!), and then chowing it down in five minutes flat before rushing off to an evening’s rehearsal of The Pigeon by Some Guy Who Thinks He’s Anton Chekhov But Clearly Isn’t.

Yes, I lived a life of culinary… well, to be honest, the word culinary didn’t enter into it. (That is, except for those late nights at the theater bar with too many oyster shooters… but I digress…)

Then, wonder of wonders, I met a chef. Okay, he wasn’t exactly a chef when I met him, but point is, he knew things. Wondrous things. Like: You can make curry paste at home! Really! You can!

In fact, about this time last year, we made quite a batch of Thai red curry paste, and it was scrumptious. Hot as a freakin’ sun spot, but scrumptious.

The thing I adore about home made curry paste is that it’s so much more aromatic than the store bought kind, and you can tweak it into a hundred different varieties. It lasts a nice long time, too. Cook up this stuff, use just a spoonful or two (or a cup if you’re feeling bold) and freeze the rest. Curry paste for months!

Here’s Chopper’s recipe for Thai red curry paste. Check back in a jiff and I’ll have posted about the time I assisted Chopper in the making of Thai red curry paste. It was — how shall I put it — a memorable experience. One I shall treasure forever. Right along side that time I took my hiking lunch break atop a 4′ ant hill. Not that this should stop you from…

curry paste preparations

Home made Thai Red Curry Paste

Ingredients

  • 1/2 pound dried red chiles
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon fenugreek
  • 4 stalks lemongrass
  • 1 tablespoon minced cilantro
  • 1 teaspoon minced galangal
  • 1 teaspoon minced lime zest
  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 1 teaspoon shrimp paste
  • 1 teaspoon salt

Method

  1. Have a large mortar and pestle ready. I know, not everyone has one of the primitive tools, but it works best, and they’re not as expensive as one might think if they know where to look. We got ours at an Asian market in Portland for $22. But, a food processor can work as well.
  2. First, stem and seed the chiles. Then soak them for 20-30 minutes, or until they are hydrated enough to peel. Then remove the skins.
  3. Put a small sauté pan on medium high heat, no oil. When the pan is hot add the peppercorns and shake them around in the pan until you begin to detect their aroma. Then add the coriander, wait again for the aroma. Then add the cumin, repeat, and also with the fenugreek.
  4. When all the spices are toasted, place them in the mortar and pestle, and allow them to cool.
  5. While the spices are cooling, take the lemongrass and bash it with the flat side of your knife until it’s bruised and frayed. Then slice only the white parts and mince.
  6. Pound spices and salt into a powder, then add cilantro, lemongrass, galangal, lime zest, garlic, and shrimp paste. Pound down to a thick paste, then add chiles. Keep pounding until the paste has the desired consistency.

This method is not fast or easy. It is long, and difficult. But your toil will be rewarded with enough paste to make fine curries for weeks.

–Chopper Dave

(*Actually, I still am a dork. “Used to be” is only to suit the purposes of this post and to illustrate that sometimes I do indeed learn things.)

Paper Chef #11: Just Ducky

Tuesday, October 11th, 2005

pears

Ah, fall, my third favorite season.

To salute the equinox with this month’s edition of Paper Chef, Stephen of Stephen Cooks offers us a tasty list of ingredients.

  • Duck
  • Ginger
  • Nut Butter
  • Pears

Now, as to the first ingredient, I was apprehensive at first (I even commented on Stephen’s blog about it), but as I lay in bed that night I remembered that I had a large amount of duck bones hiding in the back of my freezer. YES! I thought. Finally a chance to put them to use!

The next day I set about making those (usually discarded) portions of our favorite water fowl into a rich stock.

(Note: the following is a rather wordy version of most stock recipes you can find in nearly any cook book.)

I began by removing the bones from the freezer (duh… and yes I weighed them: almost 10 lbs) and placing them in a roasting pan. I recommend that you try to break some of the larger bones before roasting. Next, I preheated my oven to 375 F. When the oven came to heat, the bones were just thawed enough for my purposes. I placed the pan in the oven and roasted the bones to a beautiful golden brown. Then I dropped them in my 16 quart stock pot and added enough water to cover. I then placed the roasting pan on one of my two still-functioning burners, and caramelized one pound of chopped onion, 1/2 pound of chopped carrot, and 1/2 pound of chopped celery (also known as 2 lbs of mirepoix to the French). I deglazed the pan with red wine (does it really matter that it was Carlo Rossi “Burgundy”? I didn’t think so) and added that to the pot as well. After bringing the whole thing to a boil, I then added a tablespoon of black peppercorns, two tablespoons of dried thyme leaves, five medium sized bay leaves, and a small handful of Italian parsley. I then reduced it to a very, VERY low simmer (about four bubbles a second), and allowed it to cook overnight.

Duck’s Head Soup (stock): View at your own risk!

The next day I strained the amazingly flavorful brown liquid and put it back to the heat. After a number of hours on the stove reducing, I was able to extract more than 80% of the water from the stock, leaving an immensely flavorful glace (that’s pronounced “gloss”).

Now the next thing was to make a “nut butter.” I didn’t want to just buy something; that seemed to me to be a cop out. (Though I’m not disparaging anyone who did. I just knew that I had the tool — i.e. my food processor — to do something homemade.) So, I chose pistachios, because I LOVE them.

My pistachio butter goes as follows:

  • 1 cup unsalted pistachios
  • 2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 1 tablespoon green crème de menthe

Instructions

Grind pistachios in the food processor to a sticky powder. Add confectioner’s sugar and process thoroughly. Add corn syrup, one tablespoon at a time, then the crème de menthe, processing after each addition.

Mmm, mmm.

At this point I began to think of the best way to bring the remaining chosen ingredients and my two variations, together. The first thing that came to mind was Italian, and how better to incorporate these ingredients Italian style than in ravioli with a sauce?

To that end, I grabbed about four ounces of gorgonzola cheese and a couple of “starcrimson” pears. After peeling and coring the pears, I brushed them with melted butter, and placed them in a 400 F oven, allowing them to come to a nice golden brown.

Then I pureed them and combined then with the cheese, which I crumbled by hand. After that, I added two teaspoons of the glace, thus making the perfect filling for Fall.

Next was the dough. I took a page from The Pasta Bible by Christian Teubner, Silvio Rizzi, and Tan Lee Leng, and, again turning to my trusty food processor — this time with its “dough blade” — I spun up pasta dough. Then we broke out our pasta roller.

This was the point when we (Mrs. D and I) thought: “How can we make this dish even more fancy?” When we spotted the oregano growing in our yard, the idea came. We took our pasta dough and rolled it out almost as thin as filo, thus allowing one to see things through it. We then made creative patterns on the dough with oregano leaves and folded the dough back on itself, sealing the leaves between the two layers. This created a most flavorful, and at the same time decorative, ravioli, which we filled heartily, and cut using a tartlet pan, meaning that they were BIG.

Before cooking, I felt the need to attend to a sauce. And, there were still two ingredients to use to make this Paper Chef worthy! So, I took a tablespoon of my pistachio butter and a tablespoon of grated ginger and placed them in a saucepan along with 2/3 of a cup of white wine, whisked them all together and allowed them to reduce. When the mixture was reduced by about 3/4 I took it off the heat. When it stopped bubbling I added 4 tablespoons of butter, and swirled it vigorously to create an emulsion. Then I strained it, leaving a wonderful green-tinted sauce that went perfectly with the raviolis and left the oregano decorations in the pasta easy to see.

And now I present:

Ravioli dell’autunno with Sliced Anna Kiwi

duck ravioli

After that I found that I still had large amounts of my ingredients left. So, I decided to plug on! The next thing I made was a soup. Rather than regale you with the process of this one, I’ll give you the recipe:

Duck Soup with Chicken, Pistachio Ginger Flavor

  • 2 quarts water
  • 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons duck glace
  • 2/3 cup red quinoa
  • 2 medium sized onions, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, sliced VERY thin
  • 2 teaspoons pistachio butter
  • 1 pound cooked chicken meat
  • 1 whole roasted pear

Method

  1. Dissolve duck glace and pistachio butter in the water and bring to a simmer.
  2. In a separate pan, sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger until golden brown, and add to the broth.
  3. Bring broth back to a simmer and add quinoa.
  4. When quinoa is fully cooked, add chicken meat (make sure to break it into small pieces).
  5. Serve, garnish with slices of roasted pear and a dab of pistachio butter.

duck soup

After the soup, I STILL had some of the ingredients left and another thought jumped to mind: Risotto!!

Here’s another recipe for you…

Nutty* Duck risotto with Ginger and Caramelized Pear

(*because Daffy is trademarked)

  • 2 cups arborio rice
  • 1 quart water
  • 2 tablespoons duck glace (and 1 tsp per serving as garnish)
  • 2 teaspoons pistachio butter
  • 1 tablespoon grated ginger
  • 1 starcrimson pear
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 2 ounces parmigiano reggiano cheese

Method

  1. Dissolve duck glace and pistachio butter in the water, and bring to a simmer.
  2. Peel and core the pear, and in a 400 F oven, caramelize.
  3. Melt butter in a saucepan and add rice and ginger. Stir until all of the rice is coated.
  4. Add liquid to the rice one ladle at a time, stirring constantly between additions to make sure the liquid is absorbed each time.
  5. When all the liquid has been added and absorbed, add cheese and stir until it is melted.
  6. Serve, garnishing with a half teaspoon of duck glace, allowing it to melt on top. Then add a fan of caramelized pear slices.

duck risotto

Phew! That was fun! Good ingredients. What’s next? Bring it on!

–Chopper Dave

Mom’s Secret Stash: Irish Soda Bread

Wednesday, October 5th, 2005

irish_soda_bread_4

Here’s another one from the Mom’s Secret Stash files: Irish Soda Bread.

I couldn’t find the old recipe card this time, but as with the not-so-Hungarian Goulash, I did locate the source: Page 132 of Ann Rogers’ A Cookbook for Poor Poets (and others).

This book is a Mom Favorite and I’m convinced it’s not just because of the simple, rustic recipes inside, but because of the title. Trust me, in our house growing up, it was all about being Poor Poets. (Or poor writers, or poor anthropologists for that matter. You get the picture. Everyone did the follow-your-bliss thing. Too bad bliss didn’t come with nice salaries.)

I don’t remember much else from the book aside from Poor Poet’s Chicken (p. 113), and a dish I never cared for called Hog and Hominy (p.76). I am grateful Mom never attempted the dish in the introduction on page 10: Cats’lleatit. “Cat’slleatit,” the author says, “is manufactured from equal parts of heart, liver, tongue, kidney, sweetbreads, and/or brains (eater’s choice) along with a handful each of dried salt pork and sliced onions. And a clove or two of garlic for those who like it.”

Sorry, but a vat of dark chocolate, for those who like it, won’t get me near that one.

But, back to the bread.


(Important note: this is an old book, and therefore has a peculiar type face that tends to make threes look like fives at smaller resolutions. It may not look it, but that does indeed say “bake for about 45 minutes at 350°”)

If I’d been thinking clearly when I wrote up my childhood memories post, Irish Soda Bread would have been near the top of the list. Those crisp fall days when I came home from school to the smell of freshly-baked bread in the kitchen were the best ever. Tea time was a mandatory occurrence at our house and I’d even give up a stack of soda crackers and a rerun of Gilligan’s Island if I could sit at the table with my parents and eat Irish Soda Bread so fresh that the butter melted on contact. (Yes, this bread is meant to be devoured warm and if you’re hungry enough, it’ll be gone before it hits room temperature!)

Fairhaven Flour
Delicious fine grain whole wheat bread flour from the Fairhaven Organic Flour Mill in Bellingham, Washington. Discovered during the Eat Local Challenge!

Now, I don’t make this often, and since we’ve a rather small and (say it with me now) Messy Kitchen, there’s not much room for actual baking. So, I have to improvise. On days when I’m thinking straight, I’ll move the bread board over to the dining room table and work there. It’s a little low for counter-work, but it gives me the space I need to get messy. And I do get messy.

See, I like to make this stuff the old-fashioned way. Or maybe it’s just the bizarre Mrs. D way, who knows, but when the recipe calls for just combining all ingredients and working on a board, I do just that, starting with all the dry ingredients in a big mound. I then turn my lovely flour mountain into something more resembling Crater Lake, and pour the mixed-up wet stuff into the middle. At this point, with extra flour close at hand, I work it all together until the sticky mess becomes a nice round lump of dough.

irish soda bread

That is, if I remember to move the bread board to the table and set out the extra flour.

Last time, I didn’t.

The tragic results were as follows:

First, I misjudged the amount of wet stuff to pour into the middle, and Crater Lake sprouted Crater Creek, which soon turned into Crater Falls right off the edge of the counter and onto Crater Swamp.

Second, since the “additional 3/4 cup of flour” was still in the flour bag, my dam-building attempts were less than successful, and I ended up jostling the bread board around on the counter, thus resulting in this woeful casualty of war:

oh woe my broken grinder

Oh, beloved pepper grinder, we hardly knew ye.

Third. Well there wasn’t exactly a third, except I had to holler at Mom (across the room) to come over and dump some flour onto the board because otherwise this was going to be one big colossal waste of ingredients.

Amazingly, after all the chaos, I ended up with this:

irish soda bread

And it tasted good. And we ate almost all of it before it reached room temperature.

irish soda bread

Mom’s Secret Stash: Hungarian Goulash

Wednesday, September 28th, 2005

onions

I am so glad no one tagged me for the cookbook meme. Thing is, I don’t have a shelf of favorite cookbooks. Around here, it’s always been more about making it up on the fly then it’s ever been about following a recipe. Even in baking, we twist and tweak till half the time we’re not even sure where we started. And I have to confess I can’t remember the last time I googled a recipe online and actually followed it.

That’s not to say we don’t have cookbooks around here — we do — it’s just that our cookbooks come in three odd varieties:

1) The texts from Chopper’s culinary school.

2) The occasional book someone’s given us as a gift. (We’ve probably got, all-told, about five of these.)

3) Cookbooks that have been in my family forever, and I mean eons.

Like this one:

Around the world cookbook

Only my junior high copy of Bram Stoker’s Dracula is more trashed than this, and I read that baby six times.

And catch that price: 35 cents. NEW. Do I even dare ask what fashions were popular the year Mom bought it?

Now, here’s what I didn’t realize until a recent browse though The Round-the- — Cookbook: This cookbook contains recipes that I grew up believing were family recipes. All this time I thought family recipes originated on index cards in Mom’s handwriting with multitudes of grease, butter, oil, vanilla, and tomato sauce stains. But no. Now, all I can think is: Hey! Mom! You cheated!

Right. Like no one else’s family recipes have ever come out of a book.

I’m sure some of ours didn’t either — in fact, we’ve got a cake recipe that I’m pretty certain originated with my grandma on Dad’s side — but at the moment, it’s looking like I’ve discovered the secret stash: Mom’s ancient cookbook collection, and point of origin for many a favorite childhood dish.

Let’s take a peek inside and see what we find.

First up, from the tattered tome pictured above: Hungarian Goulash. And here, in one of its more recent incarnations, is the family recipe card:

Hungarian Goulash Recipe Card

Now, I’ve made this recipe several times, and here’s the thing: I’ve always thought that it was Mom who was really vague about writing down the ingredients. I mean: “1 Can tomato sauce.” What sized can? Regular or honkin’ big? And what about the noodles? Shouldn’t I know if I need one bag of noodles or two?

Turns out, the original recipe is pretty vague too. Then again, maybe tomato sauce only came in one size way back when.

No worries though, because here’s the thing: with a recipe like this, it doesn’t matter. So long as you have lots of everything on hand, you just add more of whatever you need till it looks like you’ve got enough of everything.

Like paprika. Last time I made this we started off with four pounds of beef instead of three, so needless to say, the paprika mix ran out before the beef did. Good thing we had three containers of paprika in the spice drawer because it’s all about mixing more, and more, and still more — what ever it takes till the beef cubes are coated.

Cubed beef

Next step. Four pounds of beef seem like too much? Fine. Add a second can of tomato sauce. But not a honkin’ big can, because then you’d have to go back to the store for more beef. Unless you’ve got more in the fridge, and then I say, why not? Go for broke.

Then what? Simmer that baby. Covered, uncovered, it’s no big deal, just let it cook for a nice long time till you’ve got this big pan full of chunky paprika tomato stew. When you’ve got the noodle water boiling and dinner’s just around the corner, add the sour cream. How much sour cream? Lots. Or rather, enough. Enough till it’s thick and creamy and bright paprika red. Could be a pint. Could be two pints. Just have enough, just in case.

Then, it’s noodle time. One bag or two? Well, that’s when you gotta ask yourself a question:

Do I feel hungry? Well, do ya, punk?
How big an army’s showing up for dinner, and how much space do I have in the fridge?

If the dinner squad’s small and so’s the room in the fridge, then stick with a single bag. Store the rest of the goulash sans noodles and cook more noodles up next time. If you’ve got a hungry battalion at the gates, then, hell, go for three bags. You don’t need to stir them all into the goulash pot at once. Save a portion for the end of the meal when someone asks for fourths.

Oh, and last but not least, if you’ve got a hungry brood of seven and a love of leftovers like some moms I know: Definitely go for broke. Six pounds of beef and about those tomato sauce cans? Honkin’ HUGE.

Hungarian Goulash

SHF #12: A Custard for all Seasons

Friday, September 16th, 2005

Bread pudding

I have custard issues. It’s not that I dislike it horribly (though it can, on occasion develop a bit of a skin that screams I am bad! I defy you to eat me and not get a tummy ache!), it’s that it brings back memories. Memories of my own personal actor’s nightmare.

See, I was doing this production of The Actor’s Nightmare, go figure, when custard reared its ugly head. Let me explain: For those who don’t know the Christopher Durang play, it’s like this. A man with the unlikely name of George Spelvin is thrust on stage, sans script, sans costume, sans any notion whatsoever of where he is and is told he’s “going on” in a short number of minutes. Going on to what, George wonders, and soon finds out that he’s Hamlet and it’s opening night. Or maybe it’s Noel Coward’s Private Lives and he’s Elyot, or it’s Beckett’s Endgame, and he has to act while sitting in a garbage can. No matter, because soon enough it’s on to the execution scene in A Man For All Seasons, and George (as Sir Thomas More) has his head on the chopping block.

Now in the script, George’s fellow actors have gathered around him, all save for Dame Ellen Terry, who is still in Endgame mode, eyes out front, up to her neck in a garbage can. The actress now playing Thomas’ mother enters, carrying a custard, uttering the line “I’ve brought you a custard, Thomas.” Thomas thanks his mother (or some such) and she stands there, holding custard and spoon, until the moment the executioner swings his axe and the lights go out.

In my own personal actor’s nightmare, it goes more like this:

Thomas’ mother enters: “I’ve brought you a custard,” she says and stumbles slightly causing the custard to fly up into the air and land, face down on the stage in front of the gathered cast. She gasps, then giggles. Fellow cast members attempt to say their lines, then giggle. Then laugh. Then, along with the audience, guffaw most horribly.

All except me. Why? No sense of humor? Nah. It’s because I’m Ellen freaking Terry, stuck in the garbage can out front and I don’t see a damned thing.

So here I am – attempting to be the best straight man the Theater of the Absurd has to offer – in character even, eyes out front, never a glance behind to see what the hell is going on, uttering my lines with the straightest face I can muster, and in a garbage can no less – and just upstage of me we’ve got the entire Roman Legion from the Bigus Dickus scene in Life of Brian, all because of a CUSTARD.

Is it any wonder I am scarred for life?

Now, Chopper assures me that my playing the straight man probably generated even more laughter from the audience. Not that this is any consolation. In fact, it could provoke me to shun custard all the more. But, because this is Sugar High Friday, and the theme is indeed custard, I will allow him to play. Provided he does it away from home.

Fortunately, on that score, we’re in luck. Chopper’s been patisserie guy at the restaurant for a while now, and today is the perfect day for him to make another rendition of his successful dessert special, Bread and Butter Pudding. And this isn’t just any bread and butter pudding. It’s a brandy-soaked concoction with home (or rather restaurant) made brioche. The recipes for pudding and brioche are Chopper’s adaptations from recipes in Professional Baking by Wayne Gisslen (4th edition). And because this is for a restaurant, it’s a big recipe. We’re talking 18 by 34 by 4 inch hotel pan here, and enough tasty goodness for eighteen rather sizable portions.

Brandy Brioche Bread and Butter Pudding

serves 18

Brioche (adapted from Professional Baking p. 141)

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces (1/2 cup) half & half
  • 1 ounces active dry yeast
  • 4 ounces all-purpose flour
  • 10 ounces eggs
  • 1 pound all-purpose flour
  • 1 ounce sugar
  • .35 ounces (2 teaspoons) kosher salt
  • 14 ounces butter, softened

Method

  1. Scald half & half and cool to lukewarm.
  2. Dissolve yeast in half & half, add flour and mix to make a sponge.
  3. Let rise till double.
  4. Place sponge in mixer with paddle attachment.
  5. Gradually mix in eggs.
  6. Then add dry ingredients to make a soft dough.
  7. Beat in butter, a little at a time until it’s completely absorbed and the dough is smooth. (It will be very soft and sticky.)
  8. Let rise 20 minutes, then pan.
  9. Bake at 375 F for at least 45 minutes or until it passes the toothpick test.

Bread & Butter Pudding (adapted from Professional Baking, p. 467)

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds brioche sliced thin
  • 8 ounces butter, melted
  • 2 pounds eggs
  • 1 pound sugar
  • .16 ounces (1 teaspoon) kosher salt
  • 1 ounce vanilla extract
  • 5 pounds (2 1/2 quarts) half & half
  • 8 ounce brandy

Method

  1. Cut each slice of brioche in half.
  2. Brush both sides of each piece with melted butter.
  3. Arrange the brioche slices so that they overlap in the pan.
  4. Mix together eggs, sugar, salt, vanilla, and brandy until thoroughly combined.
  5. Add half & half.
  6. Pour custard mixture over the brioche in the pan.
  7. Let stand, refrigerated for at least one hour until brioche absorbs the custard mixture.
  8. Set pan in another 4″ hotel pan, filled with one inch of hot water, then place in oven preheated to 375 F.
  9. Bake for 1 hour or until set.

For many more custards, check out the Sugar High Friday Round-up!

Paper Chef #10: the New Orleans edition

Tuesday, September 6th, 2005

rocks on the beach

We’ve been at a loss for words. I think we still are, to some extent, numb from the horrific events of this past week and not quite able to sit ourselves down and just write about food without thinking of the outrage of so many going without for so long. (Lord knows I’ve tried posting every day; tried and failed.)

But this month’s Paper Chef, with its New Orleans theme, has finally pulled us back to our neglected blog and reminded us that life can (and must) go on.

Chopper and I have never been to New Orleans and in fact just two weeks ago or less we were brainstorming a potential trip around the country and naming our must-see cities. New Orleans was at the top of my list. I still want to go, though I know it’ll be a while yet. I want to see the New Orleans that once was and will be again. I want to fall in love with her as so many of my friends have.

But that must wait, and in the meantime, we’ll give the city and her neighbors to the east as best a culinary tribute as we can muster, improvised with our own Northwest flair.

Paper Chef’s four required ingredients as selected by Owen of Tomatilla were sausage, beer, tomatoes, and shrimp. Owen’s further suggestion for this month’s competition: “participate in the Paper Chef this weekend specifically INSTEAD of going out to dinner one night” and then donate the money we would have spent to hurricane disaster relief.

Since we don’t dine out much (or spend much when we do) we decided instead to choose simple ingredients, raid the panty (or the freezer) if we could, and cook enough for several meals. It seemed most fitting: Jambalaya and biscuits and gravy; hearty meals we wish we could cook for Katrina’s refugees if we weren’t two thousand miles away. Dishes designed to fill us up on the cheap so our money could go where it mattered so much more. All told, we spent no more than $25 and our Paper Chef results fed three people for three lunches and four dinners.

And here’s where I have to stop and consider for a moment. It’s easy to congratulate ourselves: Seven meals and for only twenty-five bucks? Good going! As if there weren’t thousands upon countless thousands in this country alone who’d gladly take twenty-five bucks to feed a family of five for a week. If there’s one thing that’s shocked me even more than the gross incompetence of our government in this disaster, it’s the gross and willful ignorance of so many who truly believe that everyone who stayed in New Orleans stayed out of choice; who truly do not get what poverty means. Couldn’t they have walked, they ask. Why don’t they have cars? If they all had 40-hour-a-week jobs and weren’t so lazy, they could have been prepared. I am numb with fury over such thoughts, and I lack the eloquence to put into words how much it breaks my heart to know that a disaster of this magnitude isn’t enough to smack a little empathy into the damaged souls of the selfish.

Instead, I’d like to direct readers to these links. First, from writer John Scalzi on Being Poor. If you’ve been there, it’ll bring back memories. If you haven’t, it’ll open eyes. Second, this most excellent post and its follow-up from novelist Cherie Priest. Just go, read, you’ll be glad you did.

Last, closer to our virtual home, Amy of Beauty Joy Food is hosting a fundraiser. She asks participants (and you don’t need a food blog to join in) to write about New Orleans — food, memories, music, whatever — and then add this banner and fundraising link to your post:



We’ve no memories to share, but for this post, we’ve food. Good, hearty Southern food, Belly Timber style. Enjoy, share, live, and most of all, give.

Chopper's Northwestern Jambalaya

Chopper’s Northwestern Jambalaya

(For this recipe, we raided our freezer for a hefty helping of Dungeness crab, leftover from a summer picnic — which we’ll cover in another post… soon… we promise! The bacon and rice were freebies, and Chopper saved us even more by making the andouille at home.)

Ingredients

  • 1 pound homemade andouille sausage (see below)
  • 1/4 pound bacon
  • 1/2 pound 21-30 cooked shrimp
  • 2 whole, cooked Dungeness crabs
  • 4 medium sized fresh tomatoes, chopped
  • 4 cups jasmine rice
  • 1 pound dry red beans (soaked overnight)
  • 2 pints light American lager
  • 2 1/2 cups red wine
  • 2 cups water

For the Homemade andouille sausage:

  • 1 pund pork shoulder
  • 1 pound smoked pork hock
  • 4 tablespoons Chopper’s Blackening Spice
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • Pulse all ingredients together in a food processor until finely chopped, but not pureed.

    Method

    1. In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high, when oil begins to smoke add bacon, and cook until most of the fat is rendered out. Add sausage and cook until firm. Deglaze pot with a small portion of the red wine.
    2. When the wine is, for the most part, evaporated, add rice and stir until all the rice is covered in fat (and spices from the andouille), then add the beer, remaining red wine, water and half of the chopped tomatoes. Bring to a simmer.
    3. Take cooked whole crabs, remove top shell, then clean and de-gill, and break into quarters.
    4. When the mixture is still bubbling, but near done, add shrimp and crab pieces and bring to temp.
    5. Turn out entire dish onto a platter or large bowl, garnish with other half of the chopped tomatoes, serves… many.

    (For this version, we snagged a bag of pablano peppers at the local farmer’s market, roasted and skinned them to be stuffed with jambalaya as a garnish.)

    Chopper's Northwestern Jambalaya

    Stuffed biscuits with spicy gravy

    For the biscuits

  • 3 pounds biscuit dough
  • 1/2 pound chorizo
  • 1/2 pound shrimp, peeled & deveined
  • 2 medium sized tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 cup light American lager
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • For the gravy

  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 cup 2% milk
  • 1/2 cup butter
  • Method

    1. Cook chorizo in a medium skillet. When chorizo is firm, add shrimp and tomatoes, season to taste with salt & pepper.
    2. Make biscuits, using standard method, substituting beer for other liquid.
    3. Once biscuit dough is complete, lay portions on a sheet pan lined with parchment. Create depressions within the portions of dough and fill with sausage, shrimp, and tomato mixture. Top with another layer of dough. Repeat until you run out of dough.
    4. Place biscuits in 400 degree oven.
    5. While biscuits are cooking, bring remaining sausage, tomato, & shrimp mixture back to medium-high heat.
    6. Add butter.
    7. When butter is fully melted, add flour and make mixture into a roux.
    8. Cook roux until the “popcorn” aroma has dissipated (meaning, the flour’s flavor has cooked away), then add milk.
    9. Reduce slightly until gravy has achieved desired consistency.
    10. Ladle over finished biscuits. Serve hot.

    This recipe served six generous portions.

    Stuffed biscuits with spicy gravy

    SHF #11: The Celestial Coffee Edition

    Friday, August 12th, 2005

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    Blame it on the softball stage.

    No, not the one that has to do with sugar, but the one that involves guys taking days off of work to whack at balls and slide at bags in the dirt. That softball stage.

    Not that I have a problem with softball, generally speaking, it’s just that when Chopper and I plan our day off to include dueling Sugar High Friday projects (Me: truffles. Him: Irish coffee Pot de crème), we don’t particularly like it when that plan is ruined because a co-worker has managed to get every ligament in his ankle torn to shreds playing softball. Is it too evil of me to mention our co-worker’s team lost? I didn’t think so.

    So, here I am, flying solo. Granted, Chopper came home for a brief respite between lunch and dinner shifts and spun me some sugar, but the rest of it is mine, all mine, baby.

    And, as usual, I got a little carried away.

    In honor of tonight’s Perseid Meteor Shower and the comet at its source, Mrs D presents:

    The Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    The gist of it:

    One 3 1/2 ounce dark chocolate bar. It is crucial that this not just be any dark chocolate bar, but one that is made up only of cocoa, cocoa butter, sugar, and if absolutely necessary a bit of soy lecithin and vanilla extract. It should be at least 70% cocoa if not higher. That namby pamby Hershey’s crap just will not do. Fortunately for me, I’m a dark chocolate fiend and I’d already scoped out my scrumptious Eat Local alternative: Terra Nostra’s Organic 73% Intense Dark Chocolate Bar, made just a short jaunt to the Northeast in beautiful Vancouver BC.

    Terra Nostra Chocolate Bar - yum!

    Can I just say, at the risk of getting all gloopy and lovesick, that this chocolate bar rocks my world. If I was only allowed one thing to carry forward from the Eat Local Challenge if would be this chocolate bar.

    One quarter cup heavy cream. Ideally, this cream should be fresh, local, and organic. Ideally. Sometimes though, the only cream remotely organic isn’t remotely local, and isn’t remotely affordable. Oh well.

    A smidgen of unsalted butter. Don’t ask me how much a smidgen is. I think I tossed in about a teaspoon. I think it was because I panicked while lost in the middle of recipe invention and had images of unmoldable chocolate globules. Or something.

    Toss these things into a double-boiler. Break the chocolate bar into chunks first. Try very hard not to eat any. When it’s all melty, add:

    Two teaspoons of Lopez Island Farm Marionberry Syrup. I am so making waffles so I can use the rest of this stuff. Then I’m hopping the ferry and raiding the farm for more.

    One tablespoon of finely ground fresh roasted espresso beans from the San Juan Coffee Roasting Company. How freshly roasted? How about within hours of my purchase. Oh, and the company’s store down on Cannery Landing has some lovely chocolates of their own as well. I was sorely tempted.

    One teaspoon of San Juan Cellars Late Harvest Riesling. I know, I know, what’s the point of wine in a truffle? It’s not like anyone can taste it. Well, it’s like this: I came out of the Roasting Company and it was ferry loading time. Translation: No chance in hell of crossing the street for at least ten minutes. So, it was either wait outside or wander into the San Juan Cellars retail store and have a 10 a.m. wine tasting. Like I’m going to pass that up. I left with a bottle of the Late Harvest Riesling and the plan to add a spoonful of it to my truffle recipe just so I could mention the fact that in Friday Harbor one can get a 10 a.m. wine tasting ten feet from the ferry dock.

    Local wine and syrup

    Mix everything together and try not to panic about whether it’ll harden well enough (or too well). Put a lid on it and pop it in the fridge for a few hours, or overnight if you prefer.

    When the mixture has sufficiently hardened, it’s time to get messy. Very messy. I’m all about making truffles the old-fashioned messy way. Or maybe it’s that no one’s ever taught me how to properly make truffles. Either way, I set up next to the sink because I know I’m going to have to wash my hands at least twice for every single truffle I make.

    First I set out my supplies.

    The pan of chocolate.

    A Turkish coffee cup from the same set we kidnapped for our eggy IMBB #16

    A jar of Dutch unsweetened chocolate powder that’s been in my pantry for ages so I’ve no idea where it’s from. Pour about a teaspoon full of it into the Turkish coffee cup.

    A bowl of freshly picked blackberries. The original plan was to drive to a farm this morning and buy Marionberries to go with the syrup, but then softball happened. So instead, I took Platelicker for a walk and picked blackberries along the way. Himalayan Blackberries are ubiquitous and quite tasty this time of year, but oh those vines are invasive pests! If we could just discipline them to behave themselves around the locals we’d plant blackberries in our own yard instead of rip them out each spring.

    Blackberries

    A plate to set truffles on.

    Now, the messy part. Pull out a dose of chocolate, about the size of an aggie shooter and work it into the shape of a bowl. Right away it’s going to start getting horribly sticky and you’re going to want lick your fingers, but hold off just for a moment. Ignore the fact that some of the buttery stuff has separated and made light flecks in the mixture. It’ll still taste good.

    Chocolate Truffle Mix

    Take a blackberry and place it into your chocolate bowl, then take more chocolate and work it around the top to form the lid, enclosing the berry and forming a sphere.

    Drop the sticky ball into the Turkish coffee cup. Wash your hands. Or lick your fingers. Your choice.

    Pour another half-teaspoon of Dutch chocolate over the sticky ball, then lift up the cup and swirl it, like you’re swirling cream into your coffee. (But don’t ever put cream in Turkish coffee because that would be wrong.) The chocolate powder will cover the truffle in a nice even coat and then all you need do is lift the puppy out and set it on a plate. You may not even need to wash your hands a second time.

    Truffle in a cup

    Repeat this till you’re out of chocolate. With this recipe I made three truffles with berries and six without.

    Next, prepare the comet’s fiery tail. (Or rather, make sugar decorations for your truffle so it’ll be all pretty for the camera.) Find the smallest ladle in the house and coat the outside of it with vegetable oil. Heat sugar and water over the stove till it reaches caramel stage. Grab a spoon and quickly spin the sugar over the ladle so it creates a lovely, golden, Jackson Pollack mess. Wait till the sugar cools, then carefully remove it from the ladle.

    Set the sugar bowl on a plate, place the truffle inside and decorate. I saved a blackberry for a topper, some broken sugar bowl for outer décor, and more of the fabulous marionberry syrup for drizzle.

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    So, there it is, the Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle. All chocolaty, all yummy, and all mine. Chopper’s not even home from work yet, and come to think of it, he doesn’t even like coffee all that much and this comet’s got one hell of an espresso kick to it. Yes, it’s all mine.

    Hmmm. Maybe softball’s not so bad after all.

    Swift-Tuttle Dark Chocolate Espresso Berry Comet Truffle

    Paper Chef #9: Summer of Prawns

    Tuesday, August 9th, 2005

    summer of prawns


    We missed Paper Chef last month. Well, actually, we didn’t: we cooked a Paper Chef meal, but we were then trapped in Portland away from computers for an extra day and lost our chance to post about it. We will soon, just for kicks, and only because the meal contained an edible object of such unspeakable terror that we dare not utter its name. So, so horrible… ph-nglui mglw’nafh Cthulhu R’lyeh wgah’nagl fhtagn! Ahem. But enough about that. On to August.)

    This month, says Owen of Tomatilla, it’s Paper Chef, the Local edition. Bonus points to everyone who sources their ingredients locally. (Bonus points? This is scored on a point system and no one told me?)

    To that end, Owen picked ingredients that allowed at least most of us a fighting chance at local sourcing:

    Peaches
    Dried chilies
    Edible flowers (especially lavender — woohoo!)
    And (another woohoo!)
    A local ingredient of your choosing

    Items two and three were no problem. We have edible flowers of several kinds in our garden, and as fortune would have it, we had two bags of locally grown dried chilies left over from a recent trip to the farmer’s market.

    Peaches were a bit more of an issue. The farmer’s market doesn’t have much fruit this time of year and the one farm I thought might grow peaches (or at least nectarines) was closed on the day we’d planned a visit. So, off to the grocery store where we broke our 100 mile radius, but kept ourselves in state by picking up a few peaches from Wenatchee Washington, just east of the Cascades.

    But what to do about ingredient #4? We had ripe items in our garden, but we wanted something other than a vegetable and Chopper was getting this serious hankering for a Caribbean-themed meal. That’s it, I said, let’s go to the farmer’s market and see if Spot Prawn Guy is there.

    The local spot prawn season is short — it only lasts a month or so in summer, but during that time, not only can we find spot prawns at the farmers market, but roadside stands with hand-painted signs announcing SPOT PRAWNS are as omnipresent as signs for charity car washes. (Okay, so we saw only two spot prawn signs and two charity car wash signs during the month of July, but you get the idea…)

    During my childhood here in the 1970s, the stands and sales were plentiful. Now though, from what we can tell it’s pretty much down to one guy and his boat and his stand at the Northeast corner of the farmer’s market.

    Spot Prawn Guy

    Of course Spot Prawn Guy didn’t tell us exactly where he got his amazingly fresh and delicious prawns (if he did, he’d have to kill us), but we know it’s nearby — probably no farther than Lummi Island, about 15 miles to the Northeast. We did find out we were quite lucky: this was his last catch of the season.

    So, other than the peaches, did we stay in our radius? Well, um…. Okay, I admit, it was partly my fault. I had this crazy notion involving yams and the only yams we could find were from California. Yeah, we could have switched to potatoes from the garden, but it just wouldn’t have been the same. Oh, and Chopper used allspice, pepper, and garlic salt. (Forgive us, please!) But seriously, look how close to our kitchen our edible flowers are. See? We even measured:

    Nasturtiums
    Lavender

    (I should note that the herbs we used are just out of shot in that second photo, also a mere 16 feet from the kitchen window.)

    So, with (mostly) local ingredients obtained and mise en place … er, in place, let the improvisational cooking begin:

    mise en place

    Summer of Prawns

    Ingredients

    • 6 Puget Sound spot prawns
    • 1 Fresh Wenatchee peach, split and pitted. Make sure to dig a small “bowl” out of the flesh
    • 1 yam
    • Chopper’s Blackening Spice (see below)
    • 1 teaspoon fresh lavender
    • 6 Fresh nasturtium blossoms
    • Juice of 1/2 a lemon
    • Custom BBQ sauce, as needed

    Chopper’s Blackening Spice

    • 8 dried paprika chiles (ground)
    • 3 dried cayenne chiles (also ground)
    • 1 teaspoon oregano (minced and dried)
    • 1 teaspoon thyme leaves (dry)
    • 1 teaspoon garlic salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
    1. Start your CHARCOAL grill (Note the emphasis. Chopper hates gas grills. –Mrs D.)
    2. Peel and cut yam into 3/4″ to 1″ chunks and place in a small pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Simmer until soft. (You can check by trying to crush a chunk against the side of the pot). Drain and cool. Place in a food processor with lavender, and puree. Add lemon juice and season with salt to taste.
    3. Place spot prawns on your CHARCOAL grill, shell on. (Yes, we know, Charcoal good. Gas bad.)
    4. Heat a cast iron pan over medium-high heat.
    5. Dredge the cut side of each peach half in blackening spice. When your pan begins to smoke, place peaches in, spiced side down.
    6. Retrieve prawns from the CHARCOAL grill. (Did I mention Chopper hates gas? Oh… right…)
    7. Remove peaches from pan, they should be BLACK on the cut side.
    8. Peel prawns and brush lightly with sauce.
    9. Place peaches on a plate and fill the “bowls” with yam puree.
    10. Arrange prawns in the puree. Garnish with fresh nasturtium blossoms.

    summer or prawns

    And how did it turn out?

    Very Caribbean. Spicy, yet fruity and with a definite taste of the sea. I’d say this was one of those dishes I can only classify as “weird but good.” It’s a unique flavor combo and definitely not for everyone, but we liked it well enough to eat it up and contemplate variations on the theme. Oh, and it’s pretty. My camera says thank you for the pretty.

    summer of prawns

    IMBB #17: Two TasteTea Treats

    Tuesday, August 2nd, 2005

    tea smoked oysters

    So we’re stuck in traffic on I-5 (note to planners of military air shows: staging them within viewing distance of major interstate thoroughfares is DUMB. Ooooh, purty loop-de-loop contrails… CRASH…), and I realize, just south of Seattle — where, oh man, it’s total gridlock — that I’ve left my Chinese tea set in Portland. Not only that, but it’s packed in lord knows what unlabeled box and I probably won’t see it for a year.

    This sad fact reminds me of the IMBB post I’m supposed to write Sunday evening (assuming we make the 5:10 ferry, and it’s becoming increasingly apparent that we won’t), and that in turn reminds me of tea ceremonies (of which my family has none, other than we drink a LOT of the stuff) and of the Classical Chinese Garden in Portland, which has an absolutely lovely tea house that I recommend to everyone who ever visits Portland. Unless, of course, they are visiting Portland to attend a military air show.

    My favorite thing about the tea house (aside from the view of the garden and the sublime variety of green teas) is that each cup of tea is prepared in a gaiwan, which is infinitely better than the caddy full of tea bags and the stainless steel mini-pot of hot water I get at just about any other tea-serving establishment I frequent. Except for our favorite dim sum joint, of course. There, we get a nice big pot of jasmine/chrysanthemum blend and I drink it like it’s going out of style.

    Anyway, back to the task at hand. We did have a single afternoon last week during which we could play with food and tea, but sadly, we had little time to do anything fancy — no puff pastry barquettes or plaid raviolis, alas. Instead, Chopper made a Southwestern Corn Tortilla soup with Chimayo Sunset tea (which was quite good though I had difficulty picking out the tea’s flavor), and, because it was the day after 25 cent U-pick oyster day (more on that glorious event in a future post) and I had a bucket of the puppies crying to be shucked, he McGuyvered up a smoker with drying rack, pie tin, and skillet lid, and provided us with some to-die-for Jasmine Tea Smoked Oysters with Garlic Green Tea Emulsified Vinaigrette.

    corn tortilla soup

    Southwestern Corn Tortilla Soup

    Ingredients

    • 1 whole fryer chicken
    • 12 corn tortillas
    • 1 cup chicken broth
    • 3 cups High Desert Herbal Tea – Chimayo Sunset (just the particular brand I used, but any fruit tea will do)
    • 8 ounces jicama, diced
    • 1/2 green bell pepper, diced
    • 1/2 red bell pepper, diced
    • 10 pearl onions, quartered
    • 1 teaspoon round, toasted cumin
    • 1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves
    • 2 teaspoon paprika
    • 1/2 teaspoon white pepper
    • Salt to taste
    1. In a large pot, place enough water to cover the whole chicken. Remove chicken and bring water to a boil.
    2. Put chicken back in the pot and blanch for 8 minutes.
    3. Remove chicken, shock (cool rapidly, usually using ice water), and refrigerate. Keep water at a low simmer.
    4. In a separate pot, bring tea and chicken broth to a boil.
    5. Tear tortillas by hand and drop into boiling liquid.
    6. Reduce head to a simmer, and stir often. Make sure nothing sticks. Add some of the liquid used to blanch the chicken if it gets too thick.
    7. Disassemble chicken, and dice the meat into 1 inch cubes
    8. When tortilla pieces have fully broken down, add vegetables and chicken. Bring back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
    9. Continue to simmer until chicken is “fall apart” tender.
    10. Serve hot.

    (Note: Remember to keep adding liquid if it gets too thick… Oh and about the garnish in the photo: I had some Dungeness crab meat that was kind of lying around from an event which we’ll cover in a different post, and I couldn’t resist using it. It was an excellent compliment.)

    Tea Smoked Oysters with Garlic Green Tea Emulsified Vinaigrette

    For Vinaigrette

    • 1/2 teaspoon pasted garlic
    • 2 ounces freshly steeped, strained green tea (ie, not the leaves)
    • 1 ounce rice vinegar
    • 5 ounces mayonnaise (home made is best, the store stuff will do, but please, no “Miracle Whip”!)

    Whisk together all ingredients.

    For oysters

    • 7 Westcott Bay oysters
    • 1-1/2 cups jasmine tea leaves
    • 1 cup rice (doesn’t matter what kind)

    Method

    1. Place shucked oysters on a metal drying rack until a tacky skin forms (called a pellicle).
    2. Place jasmine tea and rice in an aluminum pie pan and mix thoroughly.
    3. Find the stoutest pan or pot in your kitchen, and place it on you stove over medium-high heat.
    4. Place pie pan with tea and rice into heated pan.
    5. When the contents of the pie pan start to smoke, place rack with oysters over top, and cover with a lid big enough to enclose everything.
    6. Cook oysters over smoking pan until lightly golden and firm.
    7. Serve on a bed of greens with Garlic Green Tea vinaigrette.

    –Chopper Dave

    smoked oysters

    IMBB#16: The well-armored egg

    Monday, June 27th, 2005

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    Eggs. Eggs?!? Any kind of eggs? Good lord, that’s like cutting me loose to write a lullaby and assigning the London Philharmonic as backup. The possibilities are endless. We could get seriously carried away, here.

    At least, that’s what I thought at first after reading this month’s IMBB theme announcement from Seattle Bon Vivant. I had visions, see. Visions of grandeur involving salmon roe floating atop a soft boiled quail egg, resting inside a hollowed out hard boiled duck egg. Egg inside egg inside egg. A veritable Russian nesting doll d’oeuf. It would be glorious.

    Then (our first trauma), Chopper Dave had to remind me that soft boiled egg yolks are slippery, and the salmon roe would probably glumph into oblivion two seconds after contact. Damn. So much for this week’s crazy idea.

    And then (a second trauma), we couldn’t find a single duck egg at this week’s farmer’s market.

    And then… Well, not exactly a trauma, but the simple fact that we had a huge box of regular old chicken eggs in the fridge and we really needed to be making some headway on them. (Huge sigh of disappointment. This could get boring.)

    So, on to plan B: We’d use just chicken eggs (and not even farm fresh eggs at that, alas), but we had to make something that would still feature the shape and the shell of the egg.

    Like single serving soufflés, served in the shell.

    Or, as Chopper dubbed it…

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    Ingredients

    • 3 Eggs
    • 2 Egg whites
    • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon thyme, minced
    • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh oregano, minced
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt
    • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 3 ounces goat cheese
    • Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
    • Carefully score egg shells and remove tops. Rinse and save top halves for garnish. Rinse and dry inside of lower halves, then drizzle with olive oil and rub to cover interior. Drop a pinch of kosher salt in each shell, making sure to evenly distribute throughout the surface. (This will help the soufflé grab onto the shell’s inner surface as it rises.)
    • Set shells upright into a muffin tin. (I used rice to keep them standing.)
    • Separate egg whites and yolks and place them in separate bowls. Add the whites from two more eggs to the three already collected.
    • Take three egg yolks and whip together with the goat cheese, herbs, salt, and pepper until fully combined and slightly fluffy.
    • Whip five egg whites until stiff peaks form.
    • Fold egg yolk mixture into whipped egg whites.
    • When fully combined, quickly pour mixture back into egg shells and place into 400 degree oven for 15 minutes.
    • filling the eggshells

    • Garnish with oregano, and place top portion of egg shell over the soufflé as a helmet.
    • Serve hot, before they fall.

    And, I might add, know what you’re going to serve them in. We didn’t at first, and when Chopper Dave pulled the muffin tin out of the oven and started talking about photographing quickly while the soufflés still had a bit of height, it suddenly hit me: We don’t own egg cups.

    I glanced around the kitchen in a panic, and a glint of copper caught my eye on an upper shelf. Well, he is calling it armor, after all, and armor is typically metallic, and those cups could look like they were made for eggs and not for Turkish coffee, right?

    Right. I mean, what’s another day in the Belly-Timber kitchen without the usual healthy dose of last minute improvisation?

    Goat Cheese and Herb Soufflé in Armor

    End of the Month Eggs on Toast #7

    Wednesday, June 1st, 2005

    End of the Month Eggs on Toast

    The Limerick Edition

    First, the limerick:

    For this, our new culin’ry quest,
    We’ve cooked up some eggs, as you’ve guessed.
    We took bread for this vittle,
    And carved out the middle
    And behold, we’ve got Eggs in a Nest!

    eggs in a nest

    Next, a bit of bonus free-form poetry, ala Geisel, with a brief nod to our favorite food nerd:

    Eggs in a Nest, Eggs on a Hat, Toad in a Hole, (what’s up with that?)
    Eyehole Sandwiches, Hole in One, Eggs in a Basket are second to none!
    Secret Eggs, Egyptian Eggs, everyone begs for Gashouse Eggs!
    Add tomatoes, red and gory, you’ve got Eggs in Purgatory!
    The only constant is the bread, with a hole in the middle for the eggs to bed,
    So carve your bread and add your treats,
    Eggs in toast are sure good eats!

    eggs in a nest

    Next, a recipe:

    Eggs in a Nest ala Chopper

    serves 4

    nest waiting for eggs

    Ingredients

    • 4 slices of flavored bread (whatever flavor you like, but we used a garlic loaf)
    • 4 eggs
    • 2 oz smoked bacon, cut into lardons (thin slices)
    • 2 oz butter
    • Pinch of garlic salt
    • Pinch of paprika
    • Dried basil leaves
    • Fresh oregano
    • Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
    • Black truffle oil for garnish

    Method

    • Take bread slices and cut 1-1/2 inch holes in the center. Have eggs cracked and ready in a bowl.
    • Melt butter in a sauté pan over “medium-high” heat and wait for its water to evaporate (i.e. it stops foaming).
    • Add cut bacon and cook until the rendered fat makes a shallow pool in the pan.
    • Add cut bread and toast to golden brown on one side.
    • Turn bread over and pour eggs into the holes in the bread, one per slice. (Mrs. D sez, okay, clearly, from the photos, we cheated and made two slices with two holes each. What can I say? We were hungry!)
    • As eggs cook, sprinkle with paprika, garlic salt, and dried basil. Then add a liquid (in this case whisky!) and cover until steam cooks the whites over the yolks.
    • Reduce heat to “medium-low” and uncover. Allow to dry for two minutes
    • Plate, and garnish with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, black truffle oil, and a sprig of fresh oregano.

    eggs in a nest

    Bonus artsy photo of Chopper Dave at work:

    artsy Chopper

    And last, and most likely least, a bonus culinary “Nantucket” limerick which has nothing at all to do with eggs:

    A hungry young monk from Nantucket
    Was strolling the beach with his bucket.
    When far from his cloister,
    He cried, “Look! An Oyster!
    If I had a knife I could shuck it!”

    Paper Chef #6: Just Desserts?

    Monday, May 9th, 2005

    Duck leg confit with savory strawberry compote

    Sometimes comfort food has nothing at all to do with what we all think of as “comfort food” and everything to do with comforting ourselves in the kitchen by diving in, feet first, and immersing ourselves in the comfort of extravagant cooking.

    We cook to take our minds off the burdens we carry outside the kitchen. We cook so we can lose ourselves in the near-synesthetic experience of an extraordinary meal. We cook to discover the unexpected.

    Thus, with hard times upon us, we’ve taken on Paper Chef #6 with an added gusto that gave us a trio of luscious results.

    When our host Owen declared this “the first clearly dessert only Paper Chef,” we knew the gauntlet had been tossed. So, along with our one dessert, we invented two scrumptious savory dishes with the theme ingredients; strawberries, white chocolate, almond paste, and ricotta cheese.

    A couple of notes on ingredients: We already had a bag of frozen strawberries and opted not to buy the fresh out-of-state ones that had just appeared at our local market, as we believed them to be too early to have much flavor. Almond paste was not something we could find readily at our local market as well. All we could locate was marzipan (and Chopper hates marzipan), and so we pounded out our own paste, using slivered almonds, toasted, and our trusty mortar and pestle.

    toasting almonds

    Quinoa Crusted Prawns with Mole Fresa

    Quinoa Crusted Prawns with Mole Fresa

    (Chopper Dave uses his own suggested ingredient anyway.)

    Use 16/21 prawns with shells removed, but tail on. (Save shells for shrimp broth)

    Use standard breading procedure, using quinoa (both traditional and red) in the “crumb” stage.

    For Mole Fresa

    • 5 medium red jalepenos; roasted in 375 degree oven for 15-25 minutes, or until skin is dark and loose
    • 1/2 cup fresh strawberries
    • 4 medium cloves raw garlic
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1 ounce melted white chocolate
    • 1/2 teaspoon ricotta cheese
    • 1 teaspoon fresh cilantro

    Cut and de-seed chiles, then put solid ingredients into food processor & puree together.

    Stir in melted white chocolate & ricotta.

    For shrimp broth

    • 2 cups water
    • Juice of 1/4 lemon
    • 4 sprigs thyme
    • Shells from 10 16/21 prawns

    Simmer ingredients together until desired flavor is achieved, season with salt to taste.

    shrimp broth

    Thin mole puree to sauce consistency with shrimp broth.

    Garnish with fresh cilantro.

    Quinoa crusted shrimp

    Duck Leg Confit with savory Strawberry Compote

    For Duck Confit

    • 1 quart rendered duck fat
    • 1 cup water
    • Small handful of fennel fronds
    • Small handful of chives
    • Small handful of thyme
    • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
    • 3 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

    Set duck fat to simmer.
    Drop herbs in.
    Add four duck legs.
    Simmer gently for 3 hours or until meat is fork tender.

    For Compote

    • 1 finely chopped red onion (cut small dice or brunoise)
    • 3/4 cup frozen strawberries
    • 1/3 medium-sized yellow bell pepper (also cut small dice or brunoise)
    • 2 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
    • 2 tablespoon white wine

    Reduce until nearly dry (au sec).

    Add

    • 1/4 teaspoon pepper (add as needed)
    • 1 teaspoon ricotta
    • 1/2 ounce white chocolate
    • 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

    Serve on a bed of fresh chives (preferably with blossoms).

    Duck Leg Confit with savory Strawberry Compote

    Strawberry & Red Wine Granita

    • 1-1/2 cup frozen strawberries
    • 1 cup dry red wine
    • 2 cup water
    • 1/2 cup white sugar

    Thaw and puree strawberries.

    Mix all ingredients until sugar is dissolved, then put in freezer, fluff with a fork occasionally.

    Melt 2 oz of white chocolate and spread dollops on parchment.

    Refrigerate parchment and peel white chocolate wafers off later for garnish.

    strawberry granita

    For quenelle topping

    • 2 tablespoon ricotta
    • 1 tablespoon almond paste
    • 1 teaspoon white sugar

    Mix these ingredients together, then form into quenelles and lay on top of granita servings.

    Add white chocolate wafers and a strawberry flower with leaves for garnish.

    Oh, by the way, everything tasted amazing. — miz D.

    strawberry granita

    SHF #7: It Is The Rabbit!

    Friday, April 22nd, 2005

    molasses and white wine zabaglione

    Molasses & White Wine Zabaglione
    (with molasses brittle)

    (a recipe with detours)

    Molasses. Color me strange, but I really like the stuff. Maybe it’s those fond memories of home baked gingerbread cookies at Christmas time and me sneaking a spoonful straight from the bottle, or maybe it’s just the label with that grand old rabbit — that same rabbit, selling molasses for decades and way cooler than the Trix bunny.

    So here we are, our first Sugar High Friday, and it’s gooey-sticky molasses time. Thing is, it’s also damn hot for this time of year, so if we want a dessert, we don’t want something gooey-sticky, we want something refreshing. Something simple and elegant, but (here’s the catch), with the rabbit.

    And so was born Chopper Dave’s latest creation: Molasses and White Wine Zabaglione.

    To clarify, this isn’t your Italian grandmother’s zabaglione. This is a modified zabaglione. The classic version includes just three ingredients — egg yolks, sugar, and marsala wine — but we’ve added heavy cream and crème fraîche for two reasons: One, it reduces the labor and time involved so that the whole process takes no more than about 20 minutes. And two, it enhances the flavor and mouthfeel of the dessert.

    That is, Chopper Dave says it enhances the flavor and mouthfeel of the dessert. Me, I just rack up reason number three: It contains dairy products, meaning Mrs. D. can’t eat any, meaning more tasty goodness for the chef!

    Culinary School Detour:

    Sabajon (the French version) was the preferred dessert on student black box tests during Chopper Dave’s stint at school. This, because if its ease of preparation. Chopper Dave made a tart tatin instead and was under the impression that everyone else would be making chocolate mousse, but the instructors’ constant mantra of “everyone makes chocolate mousse on the black box” had worked and lured the vast majority of students away from the usual and straight toward sabajon.

    Molasses & White Wine Zabaglione

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 cup heavy cream
    • 1/2 cup crème fraîche
    • 4 egg yolks
    • 2 tablespoons white wine
    • 2 tablespoons molasses (we used Brer Rabbit Full Flavored molasses)
    • 1/2 cup sugar

    Method

    • Start by whipping the heavy cream and crème fraîche until stiff peaks form.
    • Set aside.
    • Beat egg yolks, wine, molasses, and sugar over a double boiler until pale and thick.
    • Geeky Science Quote Detour:

      “Egg yolks are also beaten in some culinary procedures, but because of their high fat content, and the fact that the yolk proteins are not easily surface denatured, they foam less effectively than the albumen. Zabaglione, a warm, richly frothy mixture of yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine, is the only well-known whipped yolk dish”
      On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, Harold McGee

      whipping the eggs

      Why We’re Not Purists Detour:

      We would have preferred an electric mixer (thus making this dessert take even less that 20 minutes to prepare), but, alas, we were stuck with an old egg beater. Purists, however, like the whisk, which is just fine if you don’t mind carpel-tunnel syndrome or a nasty case of bursitis.

      My mom got bursitis years ago from washing my diapers in the sink during a ten day storm and power outage. You think she’d ever use a whisk? Oh, wait, she hates to cook.

    • Add egg mixture to heavy cream/crème fraîche mixture. Fold till combined.

    Molasses Brittle (a garnish)

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 c water
    • 1 c sugar
    • 1 tbl butter
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbl molasses
    • 1 tsp apple cider vinegar

    Method

    • Boil all ingredients until brittle in cold water (hard crack stage)
    • Random Babbling Detour:

      In a perfect world we would cook the brittle with a candy thermometer and just wait till the temperature hit somewhere around 300 degrees Fahrenheit. But since we don’t have one, we cooked the old fashioned way, taking small dollops of the sugar mixture on a spoon and dropping them in cold water, working our way up through the six stages of sugar: Thread, soft-ball, firm-ball, hard-ball, anger, bargaining, depression, and so on. The key of course is to avoid the final stage of acceptance that you’ve overdone it and your sugar has indeed burned.

      Random Conversational Detour:

      Chopper Dave: This is the soft ball stage so I need to kick it up a notch.

      Mrs D: Oh, you really didn’t say that.

      (Mrs D. proceeds to write down what Chopper Dave has just said.)

      Chopper Dave: If this ends up on the blog, I won’t speak to you for a week. You have to stipulate I was joking. (adopting a Taco the Octopus demeanor) I won’t be compared to that silly “bam” fellow.

      (Mrs D. smiles and keeps writing.)

      brittle on the silpat

    • When the sugar mixture reaches the hard crack stage, pour it onto a silpat or parchment and let it cool, then break it into pieces of desired size for the zabaglione garnish.

    Makes up to 6 portions.

    The result: A zabaglione in which the molasses flavor is featured but not overpowering. You can’t help but know that it’s molasses, and yet it’s not at all heavy like one would expect from a typical molasses dessert.

    molasses and white wine zabaglione

    Comfort me good

    Friday, April 15th, 2005

    before the broth

    When the dog sheds on freshly washed white pillow cases, when the cat turns that cranny behind the computer table into her indoor commode, when that final, intractable cold germ sets up shop in your sinuses and refuses to leave, it’s time for comfort food.

    Comfort foods (or so they say) have everything to do with two things: childhood memories, and that sweet/fat combo that acts as an instant stress-reliever (well, at least until the next trip to the scales). Mac and cheese, chicken soup, a big dish of chocolate ice cream… All good, but when I reached back to my own childhood, I couldn’t come up with a solid list of traditional comfort foods. Instead, I remembered two things: One, the daily after-school snack of saltines and Nestlé’s Quick, and two, cottage cheese and shrimp stuffed blintzes.

    Both involved ritual. The first began with a tumbler. Not any tumbler, but a Coca Cola tumbler — the kind with the stained-glass pattern in black and red (free at Chevron stations everywhere!). The key to the snack was this: fill the tumbler with milk, then dump heaping spoonfuls of Quick into the milk and watch as the lumps of chocolate drizzle to the bottom. Do not stir until the layer of chocolate almost reaches the lower edge of the stained-glass pattern. Add two more heaping teaspoons of Quick, then stir — carefully — so as not to disturb the inch-thick of chocolaty goodness. This is your dessert. Set tumbler of Quick onto the arm of the couch, next to a stack of saltines, at least eight crackers high. (Ten, if you can manage to keep them from toppling.) Turn on the TV to channel 12, and enjoy the afternoon of Gilligan’s Island and I Dream of Jeannie reruns.

    The second ritual wasn’t nearly so complicated. All I remember is that blintzes were my favorite. I’d beg Mom to make them as often as possible, and when she did, I’d help with the filling (typically cottage cheese, shrimp, and celery), and I’d fold the wrappers and pin them together with toothpicks. The fun came in seeing how many I could eat; lining them up on my plate, then counting the toothpicks at the end of dinner to determine if I’d achieved true gluttony that night.

    On Chopper Dave’s end of things, it’s all about the traditional comfort foods: mashed potatoes, pot roast, meatloaf. This past couple weeks of high-stress living we tackled two on the classic list: Chicken and Dumplings, and Fried Chicken in a Buttermilk Marinade.

    ugly naked chicken

    The buttermilk marinade threw me. It’s just not something I’ve run into before, and I — not knowing the science behind milk (other than whey and I do not get along anymore at all) — didn’t realize that buttermilk was acidic. So, the cook starts with the marinade and I have to ask, will this actually work?

    Sure, he says, and goes on to explain about emulsifiers and the creation of lactic acid. I’m lost, two sentences in. “Perhaps we need Alton Brown to explain,” I say.

    “But then we’d need actors.”

    “Yes, in cow suits, I know, I know. Okay, I’ll take your word for it.”

    I do take his word for it, trusting that buttermilk is indeed acidic enough to make a good marinade (after all, yogurt works for Tandoori, right?), but because I’m also into the geekery of it, I google and discover this site, courtesy of a PhD in Biology and Chemistry, that explains it all. And more. Check out the cheese page. Really.

    Meanwhile, we’ve got this delicious fryer, all tendered up with buttermilk. Now what? Collard greens and mashed potatoes, of course.

    comfort food is not pretty

    Chopper Dave has a thing about braised greens. Kale, chard, collard greens — he nails it. Seriously, I used to hate the stuff. Maybe it was all that frozen spinach I was subjected to as a small child, or maybe it’s just that Mom never quite understood that adding things to vegetables (and not over-cooking them) can actually make them taste better. Either way, I am now, at long last, in love with braised greens.

    And dumplings. Don’t get me started on dumplings. It’s not that I ever disliked dumplings, it’s that I’ve always had the kind made with flour, water, and just about nothing else. Comfort food, yes, but oh so boring. Bring on the thyme and polenta, baby and comfort me good.

    cornmeal

    Of course, now that I’m writing this, the leftovers are all eaten, and the chef is off at work, cooking for other people, not me. I need comfort and I don’t even have any Nestlé’s Quick to add to a glass of soy milk. Time to seek out dark chocolate, pour myself a nice cup of tea, and daydream about cottage cheese and shrimp blintzes.

    Chopper’s Chicken and Dumplings

    For broth and meat

    • 2 whole fryer chickens
    • 3 stalks celery, sliced
    • 4 carrots, diced
    • 1 large onion
    • 4 ounces mushrooms (variety up to availability and cost)
    • 3 teaspoons kosher salt
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 cup all purpose flour

    For Dumplings

    • 1 cup all purpose flour
    • 1/2 cup partially cooked polenta
    • 2 teaspoons baking powder
    • 3 tablespoons fresh thyme, minced
    • 3 tablespoons melted butter
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 1/2 cup other flavorful liquid

    Method

    1. Place chickens in a large pot, and add enough water to cover. Place on medium high heat.
    2. As the pot is heating, lightly caramelize carrot, celery, and onion in a separate pan. Add caramelized vegetables and bay leaf to pot. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Season with salt. Continue simmering for 2 hours.
    3. into the pot

    4. For dumplings; combine flour and polenta, baking powder, 3/4 tsp kosher salt, and thyme in a bowl. Mix until fully combined.
    5. Combine liquids and melted butter, and add to other ingredients. Stir until flour is fully hydrated.
    6. Strain contents of the pot, reserving liquid. Measure 6 cups into a saucepan and return to a simmer.
    7. dumpling construction

    8. While broth is simmering, remove the cooked chicken meat from the bones by hand, and tear into bite sized chunks. (If you want to watch your calories, I would advise removing the skin too.)
    9. Using a tablespoon, drop dollops of dumpling mixture into the simmering pot. Cook for 10 minutes.
    10. As dumplings are cooking take the last 1/2 cup of flour and mix it with enough water to make a slurry. Gradually add the slurry to the simmering broth while stirring constantly. Add chicken meat, in order to bring it up to heat. Continue stirring until the sauce gets to the desired consistency.

    once again, comfort food isn't pretty

    Braised collard greens

    Ingredients

    • 5 bunches (in supermarket terms) collard greens
    • 1 quart beef stock, or broth
    • 1/4 cup pomegranate juice
    • 1 tablespoon lemon pepper
    • Oil (any kind will do, as well as butter) as needed.

    Method

    1. Cut greens into strips, making sure to separate leaves from stems.
    2. In a stainless steel pot over medium heat, add oil (or butter), and greens. Toss greens in the oil until all are effectively coated, adding oil if necessary.
    3. Add stock, pomegranate juice, and lemon pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook until greens are tender. (About 10-20 minutes, depending on how old/young they are.)

    Diving in: Paper Chef #5

    Monday, April 4th, 2005

    cheese and tomatoes

    So it’s the day before we get Belly-Timber up and running when I spring the notion of Paper Chef on the cook. He’s all over it. He says, let’s dive in, feet first and make this our introduction to the food blogging world. (He’s a little crazy that way.)

    Before we even know what the ingredients are, he’s talking meatloaf. (This, because he’s been craving meatloaf for days.) I suggest that perhaps he should hold that thought — after all, if we’d been around last month, he would have made a pomegranate and chocolate meatloaf and… Well, actually he’d probably figure out a way to make that work, but even so, I felt it best to convince him that he should at least wait for the ingredients list.

    As soon as we see the list — goat cheese, sherry vinegar, prosciutto, green garlic — he’s talking pizza. For about five minutes. Then the brainstorm hits. A new creation, half quiche, half frittata. That’s it! We’ll make a Quittata!

    cutting board

    Now, on to the ingredients. First thing to mention, we’re on an island. What this means is we’ve got two supermarkets, and one tiny little gourmet shop. No butchers, no specialty ethnic groceries, and our farmer’s market doesn’t start till later this month. Fortunately, this first time out, our only stumbling block was the green garlic. So, because I was endlessly indecisive at the market, I opted for a trio of replacements: regular garlic, shallots, and green onions. The prosciutto, I should add, was packaged, because, well, that’s the only way we can get it here. Fortunately for us, a single 3 ounce package gave us just the amount we needed.

    Second thing to mention: the kitchen. We’re cooking in my parents’ kitchen these days, which means we’re in a kitchen designed by People Who Don’t Like To Cook. (Yes, they exist. Just ask my mom.) No worries. Improvisation and space management (of a space the size of a postage stamp) is what we’re all about these days.

    So, on with the recipe!

    Goat Cheese & Prosciutto Quittata with Sherry Gastrique

    For the Quittata:

    • 5 cloves garlic
    • 1 small shallot
    • 1 sheet of puff pastry (depending on size of pan — we used a cast iron skillet for our experiment)
    • Approximately 4 tomatoes; we used 1 Roma and 3 orange vine tomatoes
    • One dozen eggs
    • 3 ounces prosciutto, sliced very thin
    • Approximately 6 ounces of semi-soft goat cheese
    • 1 tablespoon Fresh thyme
    • Fresh basil
    • 1/4 cup (or so) of chopped green onion for garnish
    • Salt and pepper to taste
    • As needed for sautéing:
    • Olive oil
    • Butter

    For the Sherry Gastrique:

    • 1 cup cream sherry
    • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
    • 3 tablespoons sugar
    • Butter, as needed
    1. Cut puff pastry to shape of pan bottom.
    2. Place pastry on a sheet pan between two sheets of parchment, and cover with another pan. This prevents the pastry from puffing too high, and still allows for a flaky texture.
    3. Place pastry in the oven at 375F and set the timer for 5 minutes.
    4. Beat 6 eggs. Add 2 teaspoons of fresh thyme and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.v
    5. After timer goes off, remove the weight and top layer of parchment and bake two more minutes till pastry is slightly cooked.
    6. Peel garlic and slice. Slice tomatoes & shallots.
    7. Place puff pastry in baking pan. Smear sides of pan with butter.
    8. Sweat garlic & shallots in olive oil and butter. Lightly sauté, but DO NOT CARAMELIZE THEM.
    9. Fill pan with first six eggs. Lay in tomato slices (about 1/2 of them) and most of the goat cheese in medium-sized chunks.
    10. Lay strips of prosciutto on top, and try to make a good seal between first and second layer of eggs.
    11. Beat second six eggs. Add garlic and shallots, and 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, then pour over prosciutto.
    12. Lay remaining tomato slices in the eggs, and crumble in remaining goat cheese. Place basil leaves on top.
    13. uncooked quittata

    14. Bake in the oven at 375F.
    15. Set timer for 30 minutes and pour yourself a glass of sherry.
    16. Check after 30 minutes to make sure the center of the quittata is cooked. If the eggs are still soft, place pan back in oven and check every 10 minutes or so, until the eggs are cooked. (Our total bake time ended up at 45 minutes.)
    17. Remove from oven to cool a few minutes.

    finished quittata

    Meanwhile, prepare the gastrique

    Pour 1 cup sherry into a sauce pan and reduce by half.

    Simmer:

    • 3 tablespoons sugar
    • 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
    1. Combine with sherry and reduce till slightly gelatinous. Mount with butter if needed, to mellow tartness.
    2. Cut quittata, drizzle gastrique on top and garnish with finely chopped green onions.

    Serves six to eight.

    another quittata shot

    The result:

    Chopper Dave sez:
    This recipe was actually remarkably simple to prepare and it had a very pleasing flavor. Basil and tomato always complement each other and the goat cheese went perfectly with that. The sauce on top of it added a sweet punch to the savory flavors of the herbs and prosciutto.

    Mrs D sez:
    Yum!
    This is like taking all the things that annoy me about quiches and frittatas, throwing them out the window, and creating a new dish that gives me the best of both worlds. One thing that worked very well: keeping the tomatoes, the goat cheese, and the garlic in larger slices. Instead of a scramble where everything blends together too much, each bite has a different flavor profile. In one bite I get a nice big slice of garlic. The next bite is mostly goat cheese. The next is all about basil and tomato.

    But it’s the lightness of the puff pastry and the zing of the sherry gastrique that knocks this one out the park. We’ll definitely be making this one again!